On Sun, 1 Jun 2014 12:27:03 +0000 (UTC), "DannyD."
wrote:

DannyD. wrote, on Sun, 01 Jun 2014 12:24:30 +0000:

Thanks for the URLS to the Beach/Baking Soda/Borax BBB sites.

I just realized they renamed BBB to TFPC ...
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threa...-for-Beginners

Thanks. I hadn't noticed.

On 6/1/2014 5:24 AM, DannyD. wrote:
Oren wrote, on Sat, 31 May 2014 15:30:07 -0700:

I'm starting it. Got a pro test kit. (Taylor K-2005C)
This guy is in your area...he has a great channel.
https://tinyurl.com/nunvmf2
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsvsTjbpoT-drUUezN9ECDj239FX_rV2a

Thanks for the URLS to the Beach/Baking Soda/Borax BBB sites.

I don't really like the "BBB" terminology.

First of all, bleach is far more expensive than chlorine when you
consider the concentration. So the first letter should be a C.

Second, it should be sodium bicarbonate, not baking soda, though since
baking soda is usually less expensive than the sodium bicarbonate sold
at the pool store this might be okay.

The B for borax is okay.

But acid and phosphate remover are also important.

So I'd call it ABBCP (acid, baking soda, borax, chlorine, phosphate
remover. But that's not as catchy.

Also, once the pool is balanced and the borax added you really only need
chlorine and acid to maintain it, with phosphate remover only very
occasionally.

On 6/1/2014 7:43 PM, sms wrote:
On 6/1/2014 5:24 AM, DannyD. wrote:
Oren wrote, on Sat, 31 May 2014 15:30:07 -0700:

I'm starting it. Got a pro test kit. (Taylor K-2005C)
This guy is in your area...he has a great channel.
https://tinyurl.com/nunvmf2
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsvsTjbpoT-drUUezN9ECDj239FX_rV2a


Thanks for the URLS to the Beach/Baking Soda/Borax BBB sites.

I don't really like the "BBB" terminology.

First of all, bleach is far more expensive than chlorine when you
consider the concentration. So the first letter should be a C.

Second, it should be sodium bicarbonate, not baking soda, though since
baking soda is usually less expensive than the sodium bicarbonate sold
at the pool store this might be okay.

The B for borax is okay.

But acid and phosphate remover are also important.

So I'd call it ABBCP (acid, baking soda, borax, chlorine, phosphate
remover. But that's not as catchy.

Also, once the pool is balanced and the borax added you really only need
chlorine and acid to maintain it, with phosphate remover only very
occasionally.


I was asking the guy at the pool store last week about Borax and he said
he only recommends it on start-ups to stabilize the pool's PH. After
that the cya kicks in and it's no longer needed.

If your PH is under control Borax is pretty much a waste of time and
money. Anyway, that's how I understand it. YMMV. I'm still learning too.

I add PR-10000 very sparingly. 1 gallon has lasted me over 2 years now.
I probably have over a year's worth left. I only add a 1/4 cup when I
get a 200 reading. No algae problem here.

From what I've seen, algae becomes a systemic problem on neglected
pools. The more neglected the more problematic it becomes because it
actually get's imbedded into the pool and there really is no easy
solution. Refinish? Acid Wash?.... Depends on the severity. Once the
pool becomes severely infected with algae there are no easy solutions.

On Sunday, June 1, 2014 11:48:27 PM UTC-4, gonjah wrote:
On 6/1/2014 7:43 PM, sms wrote:

On 6/1/2014 5:24 AM, DannyD. wrote:

Oren wrote, on Sat, 31 May 2014 15:30:07 -0700:



I'm starting it. Got a pro test kit. (Taylor K-2005C)

This guy is in your area...he has a great channel.

https://tinyurl.com/nunvmf2

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsvsTjbpoT-drUUezN9ECDj239FX_rV2a





Thanks for the URLS to the Beach/Baking Soda/Borax BBB sites.



I don't really like the "BBB" terminology.



First of all, bleach is far more expensive than chlorine when you

consider the concentration. So the first letter should be a C.



Second, it should be sodium bicarbonate, not baking soda, though since

baking soda is usually less expensive than the sodium bicarbonate sold

at the pool store this might be okay.



The B for borax is okay.



But acid and phosphate remover are also important.



So I'd call it ABBCP (acid, baking soda, borax, chlorine, phosphate

remover. But that's not as catchy.



Also, once the pool is balanced and the borax added you really only need

chlorine and acid to maintain it, with phosphate remover only very

occasionally.





I was asking the guy at the pool store last week about Borax and he said

he only recommends it on start-ups to stabilize the pool's PH. After

that the cya kicks in and it's no longer needed.



If your PH is under control Borax is pretty much a waste of time and

money. Anyway, that's how I understand it. YMMV. I'm still learning too.



While on the subject, another problem with the cost effectiveness
is it appears to be based on very low liquid chlorine prices. The
cheapest liquid chlorine place here, NJ, was $18 for 5 gallons and that
place is gone. Last time I priced it out, for the amount of chlorine
you get, trichlor was actually less expensive than using liquid
chlorine. And it has the cyanuric acid in it, which I'd otherwise
have to buy and it isn't cheap. Some parts of the country having it
mixed in can be a drawback
because you wind up with too much, but here in the northeast it works
out about right. We lose water due to occasionally having to pump
out after heavy rain, winterizing, backwashing, etc. It's also
easier and more convenient to check a floating tablet dispenser
once a week, put 6 tablets in than it is dragging 5 gallon containers
around. I've never been too keen on having those chlorine containers in
the car either.

Oren posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On Fri, 30 May 2014 20:25:44 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

Oren posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


On Fri, 30 May 2014 05:23:26 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Here's a 'before' shot:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3701/1...27d69c41_c.jpg

Do you think I can grow huckleberries in that green pool?

No, but you could start a fish farm

?The Garden Pool was a large run-down pool that is now a closed-loop
food production system using aquaponics and is powered by solar
energy. The GP was designed to feed a family of four with organic
eggs, fruit, veggies, herbs, and fish 365 days a year while using 90%
less water than conventional farming methods."

w/video:

https://tinyurl.com/ockbltt

Come on don't give us that baloney! You are growing herb.

No I'm not. But if I did, it would be completely legal. By law I
could grow for those with a card - as non-card holder.

Hurmph!!! Anyone hear from DD lately?

--
Tekkie

Danny D. wrote:
And, this Craftsman sump pump just impotently dribbles!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2930/1...d92c725c_z.jpg

It drives me crazy that 1/2 horsepower takes about an hour
to fill up a 5-gallon bucket when the inlet end is immersed
in water the entire time!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2902/1...e1770d6b_z.jpg

You'd think Craftsman tools would work better than that!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/98287134@N02/14101828108/

NOTE: If you have any idea WHY that 1/2 Horsepower Craftsman
pump sucks so badly, please let me know (because it makes
maintenance manual when it should be automatic!).

First problem would be the size of the inlet hose. 1" or bigger would help a
lot. The inlet pipe to my shallow well points is 2", reduced to 1/ 1/4" as it
goes into the pump.

ANY air leak on the input side of the pump will drastically reduce the water it
can pump, or keep it from pumping at all.

My 1 HP sprinkler pump gives me about 15 GPM from 6 PVC well points about 15
feet into the ground, with the static water table maybe half that.