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Replacing transmitter/receiver of old Sears garage door opener? - Followup
replying to Peabody, Not Always Done Twice wrote:
waybackKILLSPAM44 wrote: I just wanted to report what I ended up doing in case anybody is interested. I used a transmitter/receiver set I found at Lowe's. It was $21.97, and the extra remote was about $17.00. So it's a good bit cheaper than the Genie at Home Depot. It's a HouseLink package, Model 318TR, and the extra remote is Model 318T. You set a 9-bit code, with each bit set to either +, -, or zero. I think that means you have one of 19,683 possible settings. This differs from the Genie setup which changes the code after each use. More info at: http://www.skylinkhome.com The receiver looks like a wall wort which you plug into 110VAC. Then there is a 15' wire pair coming out the side of it that you connect to the old receiver's wire terminals. When triggered, the receiver appears to close a relay so as to short those two wires. I confirmed that with an ohmmeter. So for this setup you have to keep the old receiver in place so you can use its manual switch, or install a new manual switch. The nifty thing about this is that the Sears opener has a 110VAC "convenience" receptacle on the back of the main box, intended for appliances or whatever, and right next to it are the terminals for the wires going to the old receiver and the external key switch. So I had no wiring to do. Works quite nicely. Cheap. Hope it lasts a while. Art Todesco says... Don't overlook the obvious. While we are on that subject, if I were so darn smart I wouldn't have found this site looking for answers. I noticed the green LED not lighting on the remote, when I pushed the button. New battery didn't change that. Read battery through terminals. After reading substantially lower, I filed the battery terminals. Problem solved. I know there are many possible problems. I overlooked the obvious in my situation. -- |
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