The rundown: Old building, Bathroom fixtures mounted to plywood and
tile cut around their footprints (why? I have no idea). I will be
replacing fixtures, but mounting on top of tile this time, so I'll
need to fill in discrepancies in the footprint. I have not been able
to find matching floor tile, but I do have a couple pieces that should
be sufficient for visible areas.

Someone recommended that I use quick-setting concrete to fill in for
1/4" thick tile -under- the fixtures (not visible). Any
recommendations on brand/type of concrete? It would be great if it set
in a couple hours.

LDT wrote:
The rundown: Old building, Bathroom fixtures mounted to plywood and
tile cut around their footprints (why? I have no idea). I will be
replacing fixtures, but mounting on top of tile this time, so I'll
need to fill in discrepancies in the footprint. I have not been able
to find matching floor tile, but I do have a couple pieces that should
be sufficient for visible areas.

Someone recommended that I use quick-setting concrete to fill in for
1/4" thick tile -under- the fixtures (not visible). Any
recommendations on brand/type of concrete? It would be great if it set
in a couple hours.

How about using Duraglass? It will set in about 15-20 minutes. Don't
overfill, it's tough to sand. It's basically Bondo with fiberglass strands
mixed in.

http://www.uschem.com/index.cfm?page...ctDetail&id=52

If it wuz me, I'd probably just use a sanded floor tile grout that matches (as closely as practical) the colour of the tiles or the existing floor tile grout?

Just paint the surfaces you want the grout to stick to with white wood glue and allow to dry, and mix some white wood glue into the grout when you're mixing it. The addition of the glue will make the grout stick to the wood better, and give it more flexibility and elasticity so that it can better accomodate any movement in the wood.

Ideally here, you'd want to use a concrete bonding agent instead of white wood glue. White wood glue will re-emusify if it gets wet and stays wet for a while whereas a concrete bonding agent will have a time window after it dries where it will still re-emulsify due to the moisture of the wet grout, but after that time window has elapsed, it will be unaffected by moisture. However, it's much more probable that you have white wood glue on hand, and equally probable that you'd have to pay $50 for a gallon of concrete bonding agent. So, if you use an acrylic grout sealer to paint over the grout after it sets, you could keep the glue dry and get away with using white wood glue instead of a concrete bonding agent like Daraweld C by the Grace company.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
LDT wrote:
The rundown: Old building, Bathroom fixtures mounted to plywood and
tile cut around their footprints (why? I have no idea). I will be
replacing fixtures, but mounting on top of tile this time, so I'll
need to fill in discrepancies in the footprint. I have not been able
to find matching floor tile, but I do have a couple pieces that
should be sufficient for visible areas.

Someone recommended that I use quick-setting concrete to fill in for
1/4" thick tile -under- the fixtures (not visible). Any
recommendations on brand/type of concrete? It would be great if it
set in a couple hours.

How about using Duraglass? It will set in about 15-20 minutes. Don't
overfill, it's tough to sand. It's basically Bondo with fiberglass
strands mixed in.

http://www.uschem.com/index.cfm?page...ctDetail&id=52

I recommend Deep Rock self leveling concrete repair , mixed with a latex
admix . Sets in minutes , just fill the space and let it self-level . It's
permanent once set . The latex helps it bond to the subfloor and makes it
more flexible so it's less likely to crack and break up .
--
Snag

"LDT" wrote in message

The rundown: Old building, Bathroom fixtures mounted to
plywood and tile cut around their footprints (why? I have
no idea). I will be replacing fixtures, but mounting on
top of tile this time, so I'll need to fill in
discrepancies in the footprint. I have not been able to
find matching floor tile, but I do have a couple pieces
that should be sufficient for visible areas.

Someone recommended that I use quick-setting concrete to
fill in for 1/4" thick tile -under- the fixtures (not
visible). Any recommendations on brand/type of concrete?
It would be great if it set in a couple hours.

Concrete wouldn't be good, aggregate is too large. You could use mortar -
the stuff used for laying brick/block - either Type S or N. You could also
use thinset. None of those will set in a couple of hours, need about 24 to
set firm, 72 for partial cure, 30 days or full cure. Biggest advantages of
all are that they are inexpensive, readily available and easy to use.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 6:12:39 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
"LDT" wrote in message



The rundown: Old building, Bathroom fixtures mounted to

plywood and tile cut around their footprints (why? I have

no idea). I will be replacing fixtures, but mounting on

top of tile this time, so I'll need to fill in

discrepancies in the footprint. I have not been able to

find matching floor tile, but I do have a couple pieces

that should be sufficient for visible areas.



Someone recommended that I use quick-setting concrete to

fill in for 1/4" thick tile -under- the fixtures (not

visible). Any recommendations on brand/type of concrete?

It would be great if it set in a couple hours.



Concrete wouldn't be good, aggregate is too large. You could use mortar -

the stuff used for laying brick/block - either Type S or N. You could also

use thinset. None of those will set in a couple of hours, need about 24 to

set firm, 72 for partial cure, 30 days or full cure. Biggest advantages of

all are that they are inexpensive, readily available and easy to use.



--



dadiOH



How about this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Bu...6?N=5yc1vZc389

Says it sets in 4 hours and can be grouted same day. It's also $6 and the
right size for a small job.

You want to build up the plywood backer by 1/4"
behind the light fixture? What's wrong with a piece
of 1/4" plywood? Or even loose tiles lightly glued?
Unless I've misunderstood, I can't see why you're
thinking about any kind of mortar.

One factor that could affect it, though: Most
vanity lights will wire inside the fixture, with just
a wire coming out of the wall. However, if you
have a junction box then you should either move
it out or fill the gap around it with non-flammable
material. (Maybe tile and/or thinset.) Plywood
shouldn't be exposed to possible sparks in that
1/4" space between the old box and the new light
fixture.


"LDT" wrote in message
...
| The rundown: Old building, Bathroom fixtures mounted to plywood and
| tile cut around their footprints (why? I have no idea). I will be
| replacing fixtures, but mounting on top of tile this time, so I'll
| need to fill in discrepancies in the footprint. I have not been able
| to find matching floor tile, but I do have a couple pieces that should
| be sufficient for visible areas.
|
| Someone recommended that I use quick-setting concrete to fill in for
| 1/4" thick tile -under- the fixtures (not visible). Any
| recommendations on brand/type of concrete? It would be great if it set
| in a couple hours.

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:20:04 AM UTC-4, Mayayana wrote:
You want to build up the plywood backer by 1/4"

behind the light fixture? What's wrong with a piece

of 1/4" plywood? Or even loose tiles lightly glued?

Unless I've misunderstood, I can't see why you're

thinking about any kind of mortar.



Probably because it's a small area, sounds like just a few
tiles, he has to set the tile into something anyway, so why
not use the product that is going to hold the tile to fill the 1/4"?

| Probably because it's a small area, sounds like just a few
| tiles, he has to set the tile into something anyway, so why
| not use the product that is going to hold the tile to fill the 1/4"?
|

Woops. Early morning. I read "fixtures" and
thought of light fixtures. I guess my preference
in this case would be scrap tile with thinset.

LDT writes:
The rundown: Old building, Bathroom fixtures mounted to plywood and
tile cut around their footprints (why? I have no idea). I will be
replacing fixtures, but mounting on top of tile this time, so I'll
need to fill in discrepancies in the footprint. I have not been able
to find matching floor tile, but I do have a couple pieces that should
be sufficient for visible areas.

Someone recommended that I use quick-setting concrete to fill in for
1/4" thick tile -under- the fixtures (not visible). Any
recommendations on brand/type of concrete? It would be great if it set
in a couple hours.

DAGS Floor Leveling Compound.

"trader_4" wrote in message

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 6:12:39 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
"LDT" wrote in message



The rundown: Old building, Bathroom fixtures mounted
to

plywood and tile cut around their footprints (why? I
have

no idea). I will be replacing fixtures, but mounting
on

top of tile this time, so I'll need to fill in

discrepancies in the footprint. I have not been able
to

find matching floor tile, but I do have a couple
pieces

that should be sufficient for visible areas.



Someone recommended that I use quick-setting concrete
to

fill in for 1/4" thick tile -under- the fixtures (not

visible). Any recommendations on brand/type of
concrete?

It would be great if it set in a couple hours.



Concrete wouldn't be good, aggregate is too large. You
could use mortar -

the stuff used for laying brick/block - either Type S
or N. You could also

use thinset. None of those will set in a couple of
hours, need about 24 to

set firm, 72 for partial cure, 30 days or full cure.
Biggest advantages of

all are that they are inexpensive, readily available
and easy to use.



--



dadiOH



How about this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Bu...6?N=5yc1vZc389

Says it sets in 4 hours and can be grouted same day.
It's also $6 and the right size for a small job.

I'm sure it would be fine. I'm guessing that it is gypsum plaster with the
price jacked up; if so, might as buy setting type drywall compound (which is
also gypsum plaster)...18 pounds for not much more and I suspect the OP will
need more than 1 1/2 pounds.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net