"micky" wrote in message ...

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 10 Aug 2015 08:19:51 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, August 10, 2015 at 11:11:45 AM UTC-4,
wrote:
I am considering buying a NEST thermostat today. I have one of the basic
two wire thermostats where I have a white and a red wire. It's the type
with the mercury bulb.

Miky: what you have it is just Heat Tst. you need to look for two wire type
Tst.
Two wire can be use also for heat but it require sub control to switch from
heat to cool or wisa wersa
More sophisticated Tst. would not work for you as is, it must have backup
battery.
but yes it can still be hooked up to do the job however person must know
what it is doing.



The guy came around from the installers and tried installing a nest three
months ago and told me it would not work on a two wire system. I have
heard different stories about this. Some say yes it does work, other say
it won't work without pulling through a common wire (whatever that is, I
am no electrician) My two wires are red and white BUT I also have two
other wires that are there, a black and a green one that weren't
connected at the thermostat. I am wondering if I could use one of those
wires as a common if need be. I would imagine they are for a future
install of a heat pump.

Can anyone advise me on this?.

Thank you.


Assuming those additional wires run all the way back to the furnace,
which is likely, then yes one of them could be used as a common to
supply power. If the installer was at all competent, he should have
been able to deal with that the first time around.


I looked into the Nest a few years ago and from what
I saw, there were a huge number of problems, with most of them involving
trying to steal power with 2 wire installations. Things like it
shorting out, forcing the heat or cooling to full on, regardless of temp.

I think the Nest sucks for other reasons too. Lots of stories of
people saying that they can't control it, it just does what it wants,
etc. That's how it's marketed, isn't it? I saw people complaining
that if they were home from work, sick in bed, and wanted it to just keep
a set temp, it would just keep reverting back to figuring out that because
it didn't see movement for awhile, it thought you'd left the house.....

This is the wave of the future. If you're just going to lie in bed for
hours, you should have gone to a hotel.

I don't need that.

Of course you don't NEED it but it's modern, high-tech, and it's what we
will all have soon.

For me a Honeywell VisionPro that's programmable
works just fine. I would get internet connectivity in my next one,
so that I could control the heat from my phone, turn it up when I get
back to the airport, etc. Could get a VP that does that for $150.

There's something about coming into a cold house that seems like part of
taking a trip. It doesn't take long to warm up.

Also, don't be fooled into some incredible claimed energy savings.
Those savings are mostly due to what you can do with any programmable
thermostat.

I'm sure you're right.

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 11 Aug 2015 11:02:41 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Mark Lloyd wrote:
On 08/10/2015 11:23 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

[snip]

BTW, I have wireless(no wires betweeen thermostat and system) and WiFi
Honeywell thermostat. I can control it any where in the world using
internet. using computer or smart phone)

When you do so, are you connecting directly to the thermostat or to a
web server that's controlled by the company? If the latter, then someone
else actually has control over your thermostat in a way that you don't.

It shouldn't be too expensive for a thermostat to contain an embedded
web server, and then YOU connect to IT. I find this very important.

That is moot point.

No, it's not.

Still you have to depend on the Internet for remote
access. Nothing in the world is 100%, perfect;y secure. Ever heard of
any system scoring perfect security ratings according to mil-spec.? When

There's perfect, there's almost perfect, and there's far less than
perfect.

I was retiring best there was B2 rating.
My home network is UTM enterprise class router based, best I could
afford. So far never been compromised by hackers. Any way if there is
unauthorized intrusion, at least I'll know any way as soon as it
happens. BTW, I use wired gateway for outside connection. At least one
less worry not using WiFi method.

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 at 7:52:40 AM UTC-8, Ian wrote:
I am installing a new NEST thermostat, replacing an old two wire mercury bulb furnace thermostat. There are only two unmarked wires. There's 24 V across the wires.

Can anyone tell me which letters on the NEST base (W, Y, O/B, AUX, E, G, C, etc) they will map to? It has to be the most basic of installations; open or close the circuit.

Thanks,

Ian

what did you find out? other than this tony dude is a dickhead. why are you such punks?

why are you such a dick?

On Fri, 30 Sep 2016 17:24:20 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

why are you such a dick?

Which "dick" do you mean; you must have experience, right?

You can not use 2 wire. People are wrong. It wont charge. Will cause issues with your heating. You need a 3 wire. Or you need a crap load of relays. I work in hvac. 90% of my no heat calls with nest is improper wiring. They are garbage. Go with a Honeywell pro 8000

We have a Lennox Elite Gas furnance 2 stage and it is hooked up to an EIM - equipment interface module sending two wires RED and White to the thermostat. If i just run C from panel to the Nest will that power up the nest?



On Saturday, December 14, 2013 at 7:52:40 AM UTC-8, Ian wrote:
I am installing a new NEST thermostat, replacing an old two wire mercury bulb furnace thermostat. There are only two unmarked wires. There's 24 V across the wires.

Can anyone tell me which letters on the NEST base (W, Y, O/B, AUX, E, G, C, etc) they will map to? It has to be the most basic of installations; open or close the circuit.

Thanks,

Ian

On Friday, December 23, 2016 at 4:38:29 PM UTC-5, wrote:
We have a Lennox Elite Gas furnance 2 stage and it is hooked up to an EIM - equipment interface module sending two wires RED and White to the thermostat. If i just run C from panel to the Nest will that power up the nest?


Not familiar with the NEst, but for any thermostat that wants power or
where power is an option for the display to light, etc, that is what is
needed, a wire to the common side of the transformer. If you have to
run new wire, I'd upgrade to about an 8 conductor, so you're good for
the future. With an additional wire you could slightly improve the
two stage operation of the furnace. Right now, if there are only two
wires to the thermostat, it's set up as dumb, the system has no way
of knowing if second stage is needed, so it almost certainly is set
up to start on low stage, then if demand for heat isn't met after like
10 mins, then it goes to high stage. With a thermostat that handles
multi-stage, which I think must include Nest, the thermostat makes the
call. If it knows it only needs to go up in temp 1 or two deg, then
it calls for low stage. If it knows it needs to go up 3+ deg, etc,
then it calls for high stage at the start. There is one wire for
stage 1, one for stage 2. Also, typically you have a fan control wire,
so the thermostat can turn on the fan without heating or cooling.
So, to do it right, you'd have:

One wire for heat stage 1
One for heat stage 2
One for fan
One that's connected to one side of transformer
One that's connected to other side (common) of transformer

And if you have AC, then one wire for each stage there.









On Saturday, December 14, 2013 at 7:52:40 AM UTC-8, Ian wrote:
I am installing a new NEST thermostat, replacing an old two wire mercury bulb furnace thermostat. There are only two unmarked wires. There's 24 V across the wires.

Can anyone tell me which letters on the NEST base (W, Y, O/B, AUX, E, G, C, etc) they will map to? It has to be the most basic of installations; open or close the circuit.

Thanks,

Ian

The yellow=Y..
The green=G..
Blue=B

I wrote a blog post explaining how to do this. You do not need to pull a common wire in most cases. Try it according to my instructions first, then pull a common wire if you need it, but you really shouldn't since the Nest has a feature called Power Sharing which pulses closing of the circuit to draw current when it needs to charge itself.

Post with instructions: https://dhariri.com/posts/58977ea0d1befa66e7b8e119

Today I install nest thermostat. I took out the old one.i saw only two wires. White and yellow..so I put those white in W1 and yellow one at Y..am I doing correct..advise me plz

Y

Same thing happen to me

On 10/04/2017 12:31 AM, wrote:
Today I install nest thermostat. I took out the old one.i saw only two wires. White and yellow..so I put those white in W1 and yellow one at Y..am I doing correct..advise me plz

If this is a 24 volt heat only system, I'm going to *guess* you should use the Rh and W terminals.

Were the terminals labeled on your old thermostat?


If you have a millivolt furnace system, the nest probably wont work with it.

On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 5:10:25 AM UTC-4, Mr Fuxitup wrote:
On 10/04/2017 12:31 AM, wrote:
Today I install nest thermostat. I took out the old one.i saw only two wires. White and yellow..so I put those white in W1 and yellow one at Y..am I doing correct..advise me plz

If this is a 24 volt heat only system, I'm going to *guess* you should use the Rh and W terminals.

Were the terminals labeled on your old thermostat?


If you have a millivolt furnace system, the nest probably wont work with it.

Good grief. RTFM. The install instructions will certainly clearly
explain how to hook it up to a two wire system. IDK how it works now,
but years ago there were big problems with using it with two wires.

trader_4 posted for all of us...



On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 5:10:25 AM UTC-4, Mr Fuxitup wrote:
On 10/04/2017 12:31 AM, wrote:
Today I install nest thermostat. I took out the old one.i saw only two wires. White and yellow..so I put those white in W1 and yellow one at Y..am I doing correct..advise me plz

If this is a 24 volt heat only system, I'm going to *guess* you should use the Rh and W terminals.

Were the terminals labeled on your old thermostat?


If you have a millivolt furnace system, the nest probably wont work with it.

Good grief. RTFM. The install instructions will certainly clearly
explain how to hook it up to a two wire system. IDK how it works now,
but years ago there were big problems with using it with two wires.

+1

--
Tekkie

On 10/04/2017 10:45 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 5:10:25 AM UTC-4, Mr Fuxitup wrote:
On 10/04/2017 12:31 AM, wrote:
Today I install nest thermostat. I took out the old one.i saw only two wires. White and yellow..so I put those white in W1 and yellow one at Y..am I doing correct..advise me plz
If this is a 24 volt heat only system, I'm going to *guess* you should use the Rh and W terminals.

Were the terminals labeled on your old thermostat?


If you have a millivolt furnace system, the nest probably wont work with it.
Good grief. RTFM. The install instructions will certainly clearly
explain how to hook it up to a two wire system. IDK how it works now,
but years ago there were big problems with using it with two wires.

gafuster appears to be a driveby shooter.Â* He prolly won't be back. We'll just close the ticket.

ir

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 at 7:52:40 AM UTC-8, Ian wrote:
I am installing a new NEST thermostat, replacing an old two wire mercury bulb furnace thermostat. There are only two unmarked wires. There's 24 V across the wires.

Can anyone tell me which letters on the NEST base (W, Y, O/B, AUX, E, G, C, etc) they will map to? It has to be the most basic of installations; open or close the circuit.

Thanks,

Ian

I just replaced the same kind of old thermostat with Nest. The Nest info was no help for this. I made it work by finding the two wires where they connected to the furnace. At that connection there are letters corresponding to the connections on Nest. In my case it was R and W. My old wires were the same color so I could not easily distinguish which was which at the thermostat end so I ran two new wires (red and white 18ga. solid) by taping them to the old wire and pulling it through to the furnace. I attached the R wire to the Rh and the W wire to the W1 connections on Nest. R to Rh, W to W1. It works just fine. I'm baffled at all the comments on this thread insisting it could never work.

On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 11:04:54 AM UTC-4, Scott wrote:
On Saturday, December 14, 2013 at 7:52:40 AM UTC-8, Ian wrote:
I am installing a new NEST thermostat, replacing an old two wire mercury bulb furnace thermostat. There are only two unmarked wires. There's 24 V across the wires.

Can anyone tell me which letters on the NEST base (W, Y, O/B, AUX, E, G, C, etc) they will map to? It has to be the most basic of installations; open or close the circuit.

Thanks,

Ian

I just replaced the same kind of old thermostat with Nest. The Nest info was no help for this. I made it work by finding the two wires where they connected to the furnace. At that connection there are letters corresponding to the connections on Nest. In my case it was R and W. My old wires were the same color so I could not easily distinguish which was which at the thermostat end so I ran two new wires (red and white 18ga. solid) by taping them to the old wire and pulling it through to the furnace. I attached the R wire to the Rh and the W wire to the W1 connections on Nest. R to Rh, W to W1.. It works just fine. I'm baffled at all the comments on this thread insisting it could never work.

When you have just a two wire thermostat, which wire is which doesn't matter,
it's AC. You'd think Nest would have told you that to avoid all the angst.
I hope they work better now, back in the early days there were big, big,
problems, especially when using them with just two wires, where they try
to power themselves.

trader_4 posted for all of us...



On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 11:04:54 AM UTC-4, Scott wrote:
On Saturday, December 14, 2013 at 7:52:40 AM UTC-8, Ian wrote:
I am installing a new NEST thermostat, replacing an old two wire mercury bulb furnace thermostat. There are only two unmarked wires. There's 24 V across the wires.

Can anyone tell me which letters on the NEST base (W, Y, O/B, AUX, E, G, C, etc) they will map to? It has to be the most basic of installations; open or close the circuit.

Thanks,

Ian

I just replaced the same kind of old thermostat with Nest. The Nest info was no help for this. I made it work by finding the two wires where they connected to the furnace. At that connection there are letters corresponding to the connections on Nest. In my case it was R and W. My old wires were the same color so I could not easily distinguish which was which at the thermostat end so I ran two new wires (red and white 18ga. solid) by taping them
to the old wire and pulling it through to the furnace. I attached the R wire to the Rh and the W wire to the W1 connections on Nest. R to Rh, W to W1. It works just fine. I'm baffled at all the comments on this thread insisting it could never work.

When you have just a two wire thermostat, which wire is which doesn't matter,
it's AC. You'd think Nest would have told you that to avoid all the angst.
I hope they work better now, back in the early days there were big, big,
problems, especially when using them with just two wires, where they try
to power themselves.

They were acquired by Honeywell.

--
Tekkie

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 at 10:52:40 AM UTC-5, Ian wrote:
I am installing a new NEST thermostat, replacing an old two wire mercury bulb furnace thermostat. There are only two unmarked wires. There's 24 V across the wires.

Can anyone tell me which letters on the NEST base (W, Y, O/B, AUX, E, G, C, etc) they will map to? It has to be the most basic of installations; open or close the circuit.

Thanks,

Ian

i can tell you. one of the wires will go to w1 , the 2nd wire will be your common C