I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection. The existing
lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked. I did notice
that the old type are 27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the
new one only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection. The existing
lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked. I did notice
that the old type are 27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the
new one only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full size screw in
base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

There's barely any difference between 23 watts and 27 watts and
they're both lower than 40 watts, which is what the lamp will handle.
100 watt equivalent is just a measure of the amount of light it makes
(as much as a 100 watt incandescent) and a high number doesn't mean
the lamp can't handle it. It's only the heat that is a problem for
the lamp. and CFLs are cooler than even a 40 watt incandescent, I
think. (But I don't know exactly how hot they get because I avoid
touching them because I have confused them with halogen lights or
something. Is there any reason not to touch the glass of a CFL?) .

Looking down the cone of the lamp, it's clear to me that the wire goes
straight to the light socket and there is no thermal protection.
Almost all lamps have none. If it gets too hot, it will shorten the
life of the plastic parts. I'm sure the socket itself and the cord
and plug can carry well over 40 watts, probably 150, but the shade
might melt or get brittle if plastic, or conceivably hot enough to
hurt when one's arm touches it if metal.

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

To amend my own post.

If it gets too hot, it will shorten the
life of the plastic parts. I'm sure the socket itself and the cord
and plug can carry well over 40 watts, probably 150,but the shade
might melt or get brittle if plastic, or conceivably hot enough to
hurt when one's arm touches it if metal.

I don't think the shade will melt with say a 75 watt incandescent
bulb, and by plastic get brittle, I meant, over time, months or years.

As to hot, the shade will never get hotter than the bulb itself, I
think.

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection. The existing
lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked. I did notice
that the old type are 27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the
new one only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

I know it is not a bad bulb because I put it in a table lamp and it
works fine. I left the table lamp on for over an hour just to see if
anything happened. I didn't expect anything to happen with it in the
table lamp because there is lots more room for surrounding air to
dissipate the heat.

I may put it back in the desk lamp to just see if it will overheat
again. (If it was overheat)

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full size screw in
base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

There's barely any difference between 23 watts and 27 watts and
they're both lower than 40 watts, which is what the lamp will handle.
100 watt equivalent is just a measure of the amount of light it makes
(as much as a 100 watt incandescent) and a high number doesn't mean
the lamp can't handle it. It's only the heat that is a problem for
the lamp. and CFLs are cooler than even a 40 watt incandescent, I
think. (But I don't know exactly how hot they get because I avoid
touching them because I have confused them with halogen lights or
something. Is there any reason not to touch the glass of a CFL?) .

Looking down the cone of the lamp, it's clear to me that the wire goes
straight to the light socket and there is no thermal protection.
Almost all lamps have none. If it gets too hot, it will shorten the
life of the plastic parts. I'm sure the socket itself and the cord
and plug can carry well over 40 watts, probably 150, but the shade
might melt or get brittle if plastic, or conceivably hot enough to
hurt when one's arm touches it if metal.

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection. The existing
lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked. I did notice
that the old type are 27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the
new one only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full size screw in
base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

Why would it say type A or smaller? If the base was type A, anything
smaller wouldn't work. It has to mean the shape of the bulb.

"Metspitzer" wrote in message
...
I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection. The existing
lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked. I did notice
that the old type are 27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the
new one only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

Desk lamps designed for incandescents are designed to dissipate the bulb
heat through convection. CFL's heat up at the base and the size of the
electronics pod can block the cooling vents found in most lamps causing them
to overheat. That could cause any thermal protection in the CFL bulb to
kick in.

Is there any substantial difference in the shape of the bases of the CFL's
that you have been swapping? I didn't see any pictures of the various bulbs
you have tried.

Another potential cause of intermittent behavior is that the CFL bulb does
not screw into the socket fully and makes poor contact. When it heats up
enough, thermal expansion can cause the contact to break.

--
Bobby G.

Put the intermittently bad bulb back in the fixture in which it failed, and turn the fixture so that the heat generated in the blob at the base of the bulb can vent its heat upward and outward, rather than being trapped in the base of the lamp fixture. Turn the lamp on. Bet the lamp runs forever (almost).

"Metspitzer" wrote in message

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel
head. Today the compact fluorescent lamp burned out.
I bought some new 100 watt (equivalent) replacements
because it is a reading lamp. On the package, it
says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and
running! Within an hour, the new replacement
flickered and went very dim. I switched off the lamp
and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot
that I couldn't take it out right away with my naked
hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It
says..........40 Watt Type A or smaller lamp.
Looking at the package, I don't see a type, but I bet
it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal
protection. The existing lamp was a compact
fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another
lamp) the same type that had been in it for years.
That one worked. I did notice that the old type are
27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the new one
only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is
bad, but the new replacement still works. I am now
using a old 27 watt that was exactly like the burned
out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a free
standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is
working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should
be used in fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the
bulb be rated (for heat) at 25 watts even though it
is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the
best photos I could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would
be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full
size screw in base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

Why would it say type A or smaller? If the base was type
A, anything smaller wouldn't work. It has to mean the
shape of the bulb.

Nope.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A-series_light_bulb

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sunday, October 27, 2013 12:26:10 AM UTC-4, wrote:
Put the intermittently bad bulb back in the fixture in which it failed, and turn the fixture so that the heat generated in the blob at the base of the bulb can vent its heat upward and outward, rather than being trapped in the base of the lamp fixture. Turn the lamp on. Bet the lamp runs forever (almost).

That would be a good test. He's already found another older
CFL that works, otherwise I'd say to try another brand.
There has always been considerable variation from one brand
to another. Another brand could be more tolerant of heat.

Another example of why some of us didn't want the govt
forcing this stuff on us instead of letting people make
their own choice regarding CFL vs incandescent.

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection. The existing
lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked. I did notice
that the old type are 27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the
new one only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full size screw in
base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

There's barely any difference between 23 watts and 27 watts and
they're both lower than 40 watts, which is what the lamp will handle.
100 watt equivalent is just a measure of the amount of light it makes
(as much as a 100 watt incandescent) and a high number doesn't mean
the lamp can't handle it. It's only the heat that is a problem for
the lamp. and CFLs are cooler than even a 40 watt incandescent, I
think. (But I don't know exactly how hot they get because I avoid
touching them because I have confused them with halogen lights or
something. Is there any reason not to touch the glass of a CFL?) .

Looking down the cone of the lamp, it's clear to me that the wire goes
straight to the light socket and there is no thermal protection.
Almost all lamps have none. If it gets too hot, it will shorten the
life of the plastic parts. I'm sure the socket itself and the cord
and plug can carry well over 40 watts, probably 150, but the shade
might melt or get brittle if plastic, or conceivably hot enough to
hurt when one's arm touches it if metal.
SOME CFL and SOME LED lamps have internal temperature issues -
whether intentionally or by poor design the shut down when they get
hot. Many say "not for use in totally enclosed or recessed fixtures"
or something similar - and they either shut down or blow out if they
are not ventilated properly and get too warm.

What is too warm, you ask??
Warm enough to shut the light down - for some that might be as low as
108F., +/1

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:49:34 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection. The existing
lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked. I did notice
that the old type are 27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the
new one only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full size screw in
base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

Why would it say type A or smaller? If the base was type A, anything
smaller wouldn't work. It has to mean the shape of the bulb.
From wikipedia:
The A-series light bulb is the "classic" type of light bulb that has
been the most commonly used type for general-purpose lighting
applications since the early 20th century. It has a pear-like shape
and an Edison screw base. The number that follows the "A" within the A
series indicates the width of the bulb in one-eighth inch units.

The most commonly used A-series light bulb type is the A19 bulb, which
is 2 3/8 inches wide at its widest point, approximately 4 3/8 inches
in length, and has a one-inch wide (type E26, i.e. approximately 26
millimetres wide) Edison screw base.

Although most A-series bulbs have historically used incandescent
lighting technology, some other technologies have been used in
A-series bulbs more recently – such as LED lamps.



Type A or smaller would mean no "fat albert" or "globe" style bulbs,
You could use a type S, P, or MB bulb, but not a G, E ER, or PAR bulb

On Sun, 27 Oct 2013 06:40:46 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

"Metspitzer" wrote in message

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel
head. Today the compact fluorescent lamp burned out.
I bought some new 100 watt (equivalent) replacements
because it is a reading lamp. On the package, it
says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and
running! Within an hour, the new replacement
flickered and went very dim. I switched off the lamp
and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot
that I couldn't take it out right away with my naked
hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It
says..........40 Watt Type A or smaller lamp.
Looking at the package, I don't see a type, but I bet
it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal
protection. The existing lamp was a compact
fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another
lamp) the same type that had been in it for years.
That one worked. I did notice that the old type are
27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the new one
only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is
bad, but the new replacement still works. I am now
using a old 27 watt that was exactly like the burned
out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a free
standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is
working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should
be used in fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the
bulb be rated (for heat) at 25 watts even though it
is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the
best photos I could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would
be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full
size screw in base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

Why would it say type A or smaller? If the base was type
A, anything smaller wouldn't work. It has to mean the
shape of the bulb.

Nope.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A-series_light_bulb
He is right. It is the shape of the bulb, not the base - although
MOST Type A bulbs are either e26 o E27 base, they CAN be DC or DC pt
bases, or DC Bay, or SC Bay base.
It is the envelope shape that makes it a type A bulb. It is the pear
shaped evnvelope - and the number after the A tells the size in 1/8
inch increments. An a24 would be 3 inches in diameter, an A21 would be
2 5/8 inches in diameter.

wrote:
On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:49:34 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection. The existing
lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked. I did notice
that the old type are 27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the
new one only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full size screw in
base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

Why would it say type A or smaller? If the base was type A, anything
smaller wouldn't work. It has to mean the shape of the bulb.
From wikipedia:
The A-series light bulb is the "classic" type of light bulb that has
been the most commonly used type for general-purpose lighting
applications since the early 20th century. It has a pear-like shape
and an Edison screw base. The number that follows the "A" within the A
series indicates the width of the bulb in one-eighth inch units.

The most commonly used A-series light bulb type is the A19 bulb, which
is 2 3/8 inches wide at its widest point, approximately 4 3/8 inches
in length, and has a one-inch wide (type E26, i.e. approximately 26
millimetres wide) Edison screw base.

Although most A-series bulbs have historically used incandescent
lighting technology, some other technologies have been used in
A-series bulbs more recently – such as LED lamps.



Type A or smaller would mean no "fat albert" or "globe" style bulbs,
You could use a type S, P, or MB bulb, but not a G, E ER, or PAR bulb

Hi,
I did some experiments in the past on this heat issue. Depending on what
bulb was in the fixture some type(wrong type) burnt out in days. Some
even popped a hole on the glass envelope(due to excess heat), etc.
So heat dissipation is the matter, IMO.

On Sun, 27 Oct 2013 13:37:08 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection. The existing
lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked. I did notice
that the old type are 27 watt and the new ones are 23 watt, but the
new one only worked for an hour.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full size screw in
base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

There's barely any difference between 23 watts and 27 watts and
they're both lower than 40 watts, which is what the lamp will handle.
100 watt equivalent is just a measure of the amount of light it makes
(as much as a 100 watt incandescent) and a high number doesn't mean
the lamp can't handle it. It's only the heat that is a problem for
the lamp. and CFLs are cooler than even a 40 watt incandescent, I
think. (But I don't know exactly how hot they get because I avoid
touching them because I have confused them with halogen lights or
something. Is there any reason not to touch the glass of a CFL?) .

Looking down the cone of the lamp, it's clear to me that the wire goes
straight to the light socket and there is no thermal protection.
Almost all lamps have none. If it gets too hot, it will shorten the
life of the plastic parts. I'm sure the socket itself and the cord
and plug can carry well over 40 watts, probably 150, but the shade
might melt or get brittle if plastic, or conceivably hot enough to
hurt when one's arm touches it if metal.
SOME CFL and SOME LED lamps have internal temperature issues -
whether intentionally or by poor design the shut down when they get
hot. Many say "not for use in totally enclosed or recessed fixtures"
or something similar - and they either shut down or blow out if they
are not ventilated properly and get too warm.

What is too warm, you ask??
Warm enough to shut the light down - for some that might be as low as
108F., +/1

Where the OP used the term "lamp" I would have used "bulb". So when
he asked about thermal protection in the lamp, I thought he was
talking about the thing that plugs into the wall and has a bulb
screwed into it. And this one has no thermal protection. But the
bulbs in question may well have it, especially since people here say
they do. ;-)

I know that bulbs are called lamps in some cases, but I didn't expect
it here.

On Mon, 28 Oct 2013 12:31:43 -0500, pilgrim wrote:

On Sun, 27 Oct 2013 21:26:29 -0400, micky wrote:

On Sun, 27 Oct 2013 13:37:08 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

This means that your new CFL bulb is rated (for heat) at 23 watts even
though it is a 100 watt equivalent bulb. Later on you mention 27 watt
bulbs. This is not enough difference in wattage to make a difference.
Either bulb will work just fine in a 40 watt lamp.


I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

Your lamps and your CFL bulbs are all type A. Type A lamps and bulbs are
common old every day lamps and bulbs with ordinary-sized shrew-in bases.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection.

No. Your lamp has no thermal protection. Your new CFL bulb may have
thermal protection, but your lamp does not.

lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked.

You say that you put a CFL bulb (from another lamp) into your desk lamp and
that this bulb worked. This indicates that your desk lamp is OK.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Also, you switched the new 23 watt CFL bulb to another lamp and "it is
working fine too". This indicates that your new CFL bulb is OK.

Is it possible that your new CFL bulb was not screwed into your desk lamp
firmly enough?

Is everything still working OK? If so, there's a good chance that when you
switched the bulbs around you got the desk lamp bulb a little tighter in
its socket and thus cured the problem.


Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full size screw in
base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

There's barely any difference between 23 watts and 27 watts and
they're both lower than 40 watts, which is what the lamp will handle.
100 watt equivalent is just a measure of the amount of light it makes
(as much as a 100 watt incandescent) and a high number doesn't mean
the lamp can't handle it. It's only the heat that is a problem for
the lamp. and CFLs are cooler than even a 40 watt incandescent, I
think. (But I don't know exactly how hot they get because I avoid
touching them because I have confused them with halogen lights or
something. Is there any reason not to touch the glass of a CFL?) .

Looking down the cone of the lamp, it's clear to me that the wire goes
straight to the light socket and there is no thermal protection.
Almost all lamps have none. If it gets too hot, it will shorten the
life of the plastic parts. I'm sure the socket itself and the cord
and plug can carry well over 40 watts, probably 150, but the shade
might melt or get brittle if plastic, or conceivably hot enough to
hurt when one's arm touches it if metal.
SOME CFL and SOME LED lamps have internal temperature issues -
whether intentionally or by poor design the shut down when they get
hot. Many say "not for use in totally enclosed or recessed fixtures"
or something similar - and they either shut down or blow out if they
are not ventilated properly and get too warm.

What is too warm, you ask??
Warm enough to shut the light down - for some that might be as low as
108F., +/1

Hope this helps.

I agree with everything you said except for the bulb not being tight
(I could be wrong, I frequently am). I haven't tested it yet, and may
not, but I would guess it got too hot. It seems to me that the new 23
watt is more sensitive to heat (or gets hotter) than the old 27 watt.

On Mon, 28 Oct 2013 18:38:36 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Oct 2013 12:31:43 -0500, pilgrim wrote:

On Sun, 27 Oct 2013 21:26:29 -0400, micky wrote:

On Sun, 27 Oct 2013 13:37:08 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 22:04:18 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 19:30:59 -0400, Metspitzer
wrote:

I have a metal, clamp-on, desk lamp with a swivel head. Today the
compact fluorescent lamp burned out. I bought some new 100 watt
(equivalent) replacements because it is a reading lamp. On the
package, it says 23 watts.

This means that your new CFL bulb is rated (for heat) at 23 watts even
though it is a 100 watt equivalent bulb. Later on you mention 27 watt
bulbs. This is not enough difference in wattage to make a difference.
Either bulb will work just fine in a 40 watt lamp.


I plugged in the new lamp and "Voila"! Up and running! Within an
hour, the new replacement flickered and went very dim. I switched off
the lamp and removed the bulb. It was hot, but not too hot that I
couldn't take it out right away with my naked hand.

I checked the wattage rating of the lamp. It says..........40 Watt
Type A or smaller lamp. Looking at the package, I don't see a type,
but I bet it is not type A.

Your lamps and your CFL bulbs are all type A. Type A lamps and bulbs are
common old every day lamps and bulbs with ordinary-sized shrew-in bases.

I assume the lamp has some kind of thermal protection.

No. Your lamp has no thermal protection. Your new CFL bulb may have
thermal protection, but your lamp does not.

lamp was a compact fluorescent that had been in there for a few years.
After the lamp had cooled down, I put (from another lamp) the same
type that had been in it for years. That one worked.

You say that you put a CFL bulb (from another lamp) into your desk lamp and
that this bulb worked. This indicates that your desk lamp is OK.

After checking all the lamps, the original bulb is bad, but the new
replacement still works. I am now using a old 27 watt that was
exactly like the burned out one. I have switched the new 23 watt to a
free standing lamp that is on a night stand. (It is working fine too)

Also, you switched the new 23 watt CFL bulb to another lamp and "it is
working fine too". This indicates that your new CFL bulb is OK.

Is it possible that your new CFL bulb was not screwed into your desk lamp
firmly enough?

Is everything still working OK? If so, there's a good chance that when you
switched the bulbs around you got the desk lamp bulb a little tighter in
its socket and thus cured the problem.


Anyone have the info on whether compacts can/should be used in
fixtures with Type A spec? Shouldn't the bulb be rated (for heat) at
25 watts even though it is a 100 watt equivalent?

Pictures enclosed. (My hands shake, so these are the best photos I
could get.

http://imgur.com/a/D7h1i

It is hard to tell where any thermal protection would be in the lamp.

How do you know you didn't just get a bad bulb?

Type A iiuc is just any bulb with the standard full size screw in
base. If it screwed in, it's type a.

There's barely any difference between 23 watts and 27 watts and
they're both lower than 40 watts, which is what the lamp will handle.
100 watt equivalent is just a measure of the amount of light it makes
(as much as a 100 watt incandescent) and a high number doesn't mean
the lamp can't handle it. It's only the heat that is a problem for
the lamp. and CFLs are cooler than even a 40 watt incandescent, I
think. (But I don't know exactly how hot they get because I avoid
touching them because I have confused them with halogen lights or
something. Is there any reason not to touch the glass of a CFL?) .

Looking down the cone of the lamp, it's clear to me that the wire goes
straight to the light socket and there is no thermal protection.
Almost all lamps have none. If it gets too hot, it will shorten the
life of the plastic parts. I'm sure the socket itself and the cord
and plug can carry well over 40 watts, probably 150, but the shade
might melt or get brittle if plastic, or conceivably hot enough to
hurt when one's arm touches it if metal.
SOME CFL and SOME LED lamps have internal temperature issues -
whether intentionally or by poor design the shut down when they get
hot. Many say "not for use in totally enclosed or recessed fixtures"
or something similar - and they either shut down or blow out if they
are not ventilated properly and get too warm.

What is too warm, you ask??
Warm enough to shut the light down - for some that might be as low as
108F., +/1

Hope this helps.

I agree with everything you said except for the bulb not being tight
(I could be wrong, I frequently am). I haven't tested it yet, and may
not, but I would guess it got too hot. It seems to me that the new 23
watt is more sensitive to heat (or gets hotter) than the old 27 watt.
In addition to what others have said, note that base up vs base down
matters with some designs of bulbs. If it gets to hot in your
clamp-on but your other lamp in which it works hold the bulb glass up,
that could be the difference. (I didn't read every post in the
thread, so my apologies if someone already said that).

Pat