On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:
Your roofer is an idiot. But you prefer the turbines, and you have found a
roofer that is unable to properly install ridge vents.
It is indeed nice to see people find each other.
But on a particularly hot day, with no breeze, see how fast those turbines
are spinning. Not at all? Why shucks, what a surprise.
Higher rate of ventilation? Naah, doing the math would obviously tax your
poor roofer's tender brain, there are knuckle-draggers in every profession.
But I do hate to see a ridge vent referred to as restrictive. At 2 square
inches
per each lineal inch, that's a square foot of opening every six feet.
Oh well, everyone is entitled to their opinion, that includes your roofer.
BUT, read the warranty for the roofing shingles your roofer applies. See how
many square feet of ventilation opening there needs to be, divided between
peak
and soffit, AS A MINIMUM TO KEEP THE WARRANTY FROM BEING VOID.
I happen to know what it is for Owens-Corning, and they don't say that it
doesn't
apply if you install turbines.

Al wrote in message
.. .
Why do you think Turbine Vents are no good? My roofer says that ridge
vents
often leak, and they get plugged up after a year or two. He says that
turbine vents are much better, provide a higher rate of ventilation, and
provide consistent ventilation over a restrictive ridge vent.

I mounted my turbine vents according to the instructions just one foot
below
the peak. They cannot be seen from the front or sides of my house. The
ridge vents are damn ugly to me and my wife.

Al
"Thomas G. Baker" wrote in message
...
Absolutely correct. Mr. Baugh is right again.
The issue has been discussed frequently and the answer is always the
same.
TB


Michael Baugh wrote:

Start with ridge venting, and I prefer metal rather than some plastic
product, especially
in the hot sun. And have the sections sealed with 50 year pure
silicone.
And after the roof job, put in more soffit venting to support the
process.
Turbine vents? Powered vents? Not even a consideration. IMO.

wrote in message
...
I have to replace my composite shingle roof because of hail damage.
I live in San Antonio, TX
The house is a 1 story, 1900 sq. ft. 8 years old.
The roofing material is 3 tab 20 year composite.

Should I install the regular spin turbines on the roof for
ventilation, or ridge vents, or powered turtle vents?

I want the most effective efficient ventilation possible for my
house.

Thanks for your suggestions.




So let me clarify this for the "knuckle draggers" and "idiots"....12 square inches equals one square foot???????.......ok einstein. You may want to rethink that one, perhaps 144 square inches equals one square foot.

On 10/25/2013 05:35 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:


Speak about dumb...the original post is 12 years old!

On Fri, 25 Oct 2013 22:47:43 -0500, philo* wrote
in Re Why are turbine vents no
good???:

On 10/25/2013 05:35 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:


Speak about dumb...the original post is 12 years old!

It takes a while for gmail users to catch onto something.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

On Fri, 25 Oct 2013 15:35:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:
Your roofer is an idiot. But you prefer the turbines, and you have found a
roofer that is unable to properly install ridge vents.
It is indeed nice to see people find each other.
But on a particularly hot day, with no breeze, see how fast those turbines
are spinning. Not at all? Why shucks, what a surprise.
Higher rate of ventilation? Naah, doing the math would obviously tax your
poor roofer's tender brain, there are knuckle-draggers in every profession.

Although this thread is really old, I will say that a house I used to
live in had roof turbines. They would constantly seize up, and when
they needed lube, they would squeal. At least once a year I had to go
on the roof, take them apart, and lube them. I came close to removing
them, but I moved before that. Maybe I just had a bad brand, or maybe
thye are all like this. I would not install them on my house.

On Fri, 25 Oct 2013 15:35:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:
Your roofer is an idiot. But you prefer the turbines, and you have found a
roofer that is unable to properly install ridge vents.
It is indeed nice to see people find each other.
But on a particularly hot day, with no breeze, see how fast those turbines
are spinning. Not at all? Why shucks, what a surprise.
Higher rate of ventilation? Naah, doing the math would obviously tax your
poor roofer's tender brain, there are knuckle-draggers in every profession.
But I do hate to see a ridge vent referred to as restrictive. At 2 square
inches
per each lineal inch, that's a square foot of opening every six feet.
Oh well, everyone is entitled to their opinion, that includes your roofer.
BUT, read the warranty for the roofing shingles your roofer applies. See how
many square feet of ventilation opening there needs to be, divided between
peak
and soffit, AS A MINIMUM TO KEEP THE WARRANTY FROM BEING VOID.
I happen to know what it is for Owens-Corning, and they don't say that it
doesn't
apply if you install turbines.

Al wrote in message
.. .
Why do you think Turbine Vents are no good? My roofer says that ridge
vents
often leak, and they get plugged up after a year or two. He says that
turbine vents are much better, provide a higher rate of ventilation, and
provide consistent ventilation over a restrictive ridge vent.

I mounted my turbine vents according to the instructions just one foot
below
the peak. They cannot be seen from the front or sides of my house. The
ridge vents are damn ugly to me and my wife.

Al
"Thomas G. Baker" wrote in message
...
Absolutely correct. Mr. Baugh is right again.
The issue has been discussed frequently and the answer is always the
same.
TB


Michael Baugh wrote:

Start with ridge venting, and I prefer metal rather than some plastic
product, especially
in the hot sun. And have the sections sealed with 50 year pure
silicone.
And after the roof job, put in more soffit venting to support the
process.
Turbine vents? Powered vents? Not even a consideration. IMO.

wrote in message
...
I have to replace my composite shingle roof because of hail damage.
I live in San Antonio, TX
The house is a 1 story, 1900 sq. ft. 8 years old.
The roofing material is 3 tab 20 year composite.

Should I install the regular spin turbines on the roof for
ventilation, or ridge vents, or powered turtle vents?

I want the most effective efficient ventilation possible for my
house.

Thanks for your suggestions.




So let me clarify this for the "knuckle draggers" and "idiots"....12 square inches equals one square foot???????...

It would be better if you put your comments just under the line you
are referring to.

don't see anywhere where he says 12 sq.in. = 1 square foot.


....ok einstein. You may want to rethink that one, perhaps 144 square inches equals one square foot.

On 10/25/2013 10:47 PM, philo wrote:
On 10/25/2013 05:35 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:


Speak about dumb...the original post is 12 years old!
Yeah, but by now the original poster is probably considering a new roof
so still applies. Just saying.

On 10/25/2013 6:35 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:
Your roofer is an idiot. But you prefer the turbines, and you have found a
roofer that is unable to properly install ridge vents.

But I do hate to see a ridge vent referred to as restrictive. At 2 square
inches
per each lineal inch, that's a square foot of opening every six feet.

Al wrote in message
.. .
Should I install the regular spin turbines on the roof for
ventilation, or ridge vents, or powered turtle vents?

I want the most effective efficient ventilation possible for my
house.

Thanks for your suggestions.




So let me clarify this for the "knuckle draggers"
and "idiots"....12 square inches equals one square
foot???????.......ok einstein. You may want to rethink
that one, perhaps 144 square inches equals one square foot.


Did you check the date of the post? Post from
July 2001 probably not relevant any more.
--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/26/2013 7:05 AM, micky wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2013 15:35:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:
Your roofer is an idiot. But you prefer the turbines, and you have found a
roofer that is unable to properly install ridge vents.
It is indeed nice to see people find each other.
But on a particularly hot day, with no breeze, see how fast those turbines
are spinning. Not at all? Why shucks, what a surprise.
Higher rate of ventilation? Naah, doing the math would obviously tax your
poor roofer's tender brain, there are knuckle-draggers in every profession.
But I do hate to see a ridge vent referred to as restrictive. At 2 square
inches
per each lineal inch, that's a square foot of opening every six feet.
Oh well, everyone is entitled to their opinion, that includes your roofer.
BUT, read the warranty for the roofing shingles your roofer applies. See how
many square feet of ventilation opening there needs to be, divided between
peak
and soffit, AS A MINIMUM TO KEEP THE WARRANTY FROM BEING VOID.
I happen to know what it is for Owens-Corning, and they don't say that it
doesn't
apply if you install turbines.

Al wrote in message
.. .
Why do you think Turbine Vents are no good? My roofer says that ridge
vents
often leak, and they get plugged up after a year or two. He says that
turbine vents are much better, provide a higher rate of ventilation, and
provide consistent ventilation over a restrictive ridge vent.

I mounted my turbine vents according to the instructions just one foot
below
the peak. They cannot be seen from the front or sides of my house. The
ridge vents are damn ugly to me and my wife.

Al
"Thomas G. Baker" wrote in message
...
Absolutely correct. Mr. Baugh is right again.
The issue has been discussed frequently and the answer is always the
same.
TB


Michael Baugh wrote:

Start with ridge venting, and I prefer metal rather than some plastic
product, especially
in the hot sun. And have the sections sealed with 50 year pure
silicone.
And after the roof job, put in more soffit venting to support the
process.
Turbine vents? Powered vents? Not even a consideration. IMO.

wrote in message
...
I have to replace my composite shingle roof because of hail damage.
I live in San Antonio, TX
The house is a 1 story, 1900 sq. ft. 8 years old.
The roofing material is 3 tab 20 year composite.

Should I install the regular spin turbines on the roof for
ventilation, or ridge vents, or powered turtle vents?

I want the most effective efficient ventilation possible for my
house.

Thanks for your suggestions.




So let me clarify this for the "knuckle draggers" and "idiots"....12 square inches equals one square foot???????...

It would be better if you put your comments just under the line you
are referring to.

don't see anywhere where he says 12 sq.in. = 1 square foot.



"At 2 square inches per each lineal inch, that's a square foot of
opening every six feet."

6' = 72"

Which, by my calculations, comes out to 1 square foot.

2*72=144

I was told my house would look like a chicken coop if I wanted to go the
turbine route. I have a ridge vent on the peak and so far no problems. I
doubt my soffit vents were measured though. For all I know they don't
even work. I have those large ridge vent openings on both sides of my
attic.

On 10/26/2013 7:15 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Did you check the date of the post? Post from
July 2001 probably not relevant any more.

May as well just go-with-the-flow.

Archived posts are popping up all over the place. Somebody said it's due
to Google Groups.

On 10/26/2013 9:19 AM, gonjah wrote:
On 10/26/2013 7:15 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Did you check the date of the post? Post from
July 2001 probably not relevant any more.

May as well just go-with-the-flow.

Archived posts are popping up all over the place. Somebody said it's due
to Google Groups.

Might be time for me to ask how to fix the leaky roof on the trailer I
sold in 1992?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

hhOn Sat, 26 Oct 2013 07:52:51 -0500, gonjah
wrote:

On 10/26/2013 7:05 AM, micky wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2013 15:35:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:
Your roofer is an idiot. But you prefer the turbines, and you have found a
roofer that is unable to properly install ridge vents.
It is indeed nice to see people find each other.
But on a particularly hot day, with no breeze, see how fast those turbines
are spinning. Not at all? Why shucks, what a surprise.
Higher rate of ventilation? Naah, doing the math would obviously tax your
poor roofer's tender brain, there are knuckle-draggers in every profession.
But I do hate to see a ridge vent referred to as restrictive. At 2 square
inches
per each lineal inch, that's a square foot of opening every six feet.
Oh well, everyone is entitled to their opinion, that includes your roofer.
BUT, read the warranty for the roofing shingles your roofer applies. See how
many square feet of ventilation opening there needs to be, divided between
peak
and soffit, AS A MINIMUM TO KEEP THE WARRANTY FROM BEING VOID.
I happen to know what it is for Owens-Corning, and they don't say that it
doesn't
apply if you install turbines.

Al wrote in message
.. .
Why do you think Turbine Vents are no good? My roofer says that ridge
vents
often leak, and they get plugged up after a year or two. He says that
turbine vents are much better, provide a higher rate of ventilation, and
provide consistent ventilation over a restrictive ridge vent.

I mounted my turbine vents according to the instructions just one foot
below
the peak. They cannot be seen from the front or sides of my house. The
ridge vents are damn ugly to me and my wife.

Al
"Thomas G. Baker" wrote in message
...
Absolutely correct. Mr. Baugh is right again.
The issue has been discussed frequently and the answer is always the
same.
TB


Michael Baugh wrote:

Start with ridge venting, and I prefer metal rather than some plastic
product, especially
in the hot sun. And have the sections sealed with 50 year pure
silicone.
And after the roof job, put in more soffit venting to support the
process.
Turbine vents? Powered vents? Not even a consideration. IMO.

wrote in message
...
I have to replace my composite shingle roof because of hail damage.
I live in San Antonio, TX
The house is a 1 story, 1900 sq. ft. 8 years old.
The roofing material is 3 tab 20 year composite.

Should I install the regular spin turbines on the roof for
ventilation, or ridge vents, or powered turtle vents?

I want the most effective efficient ventilation possible for my
house.

Thanks for your suggestions.




So let me clarify this for the "knuckle draggers" and "idiots"....12 square inches equals one square foot???????...

It would be better if you put your comments just under the line you
are referring to.

don't see anywhere where he says 12 sq.in. = 1 square foot.



"At 2 square inches per each lineal inch, that's a square foot of
opening every six feet."

Where does this mention 12 square inches?

6' = 72"

Which, by my calculations, comes out to 1 square foot.

2*72=144

Yes, it comes out to 1 square foot, but where do you get the left side
of what you claimed it said, that is, the idea that it says 12 sq. in.
are equal to that square foot? Where do you find "12 sq. in."?

He does use the word lineal where most would say linear.

I was told my house would look like a chicken coop if I wanted to go the
turbine route.

Or a factory, I suppose.

I have a ridge vent on the peak and so far no problems. I
doubt my soffit vents were measured though.

But you can still describe them. You can measure their length while
standing on the ground, and you can estimate their width while still
on the ground too. I have a town house. Mine are the width of the
town house, times 2 (front and back of the house), times about 8
inches. I'm sure that's more than enough.

I have what is, iirc, sometimes called a powered vent. It's an
electric fan in the pitched roof, near the top. I can't see it from
the front or side, but if I could I wouldn't mind. It has a low
profile, a brown top which goes nicely with the light brown shingles.

I think it uses substantial current, but I haven't tried to measure.
It has a thermostat and turns on between 10 AM and noon, and off
between 6PM and midnight. On some very hot nights it may not turn
off, which is bad. Maybe I should readjust the thermostat.

I installed 2 switches, to turn it on when it was off or off when it
was on. On when it would be off is meant to remove the humidity
from the attic after a long shower, but I don't take such showers so
I'll never use that. Off when it would be on could be used those
nights when it doesn't turn off, but when I do that, I forget to turn
it back on the next morning. and maybe for days. I do however
turn the fan off for late fall and early spring, when I use the heat
in the attic to warm the house. Maybe if I had more insulation in the
attic, that wouldn't work but maybe the attic heat wouldn't reach the
house in mid-summer either.

I also have a ridge vent the whole width of the house and it seems
possible that air would come in that way and go right out through the
fan, but the heavy layer of cottonwood seeds I used to get along their
entire length show that a lot of air is coming in through the soffits.

For all I know they don't
even work.

Why wouldn't they work? They're holes. How can a hole break?

Two ways. 1) Someone allowed the attic insulation to cover the
soffit vents. Go up in at dawn, before it gets hot, and you should be
able to see the light coming through all the vents. If you don't,
clear away the excess insulation or whatever.
2) Cottonwood or milkwood seeds have covered the vents from below
(since the soffits afe probably screened. I used to have to remove
a layer like felt from the screens every 10 years or so, but last
summer the cottonwood tree fell down, and I think there is no other,
so I think that problem is solved.

You can't see the felt covering very well if you're 15 feet below, but
you can probably look out a second floor window and see if you have to
do clean it off.

I have those large ridge vent openings on both sides of my
attic.

On 10/26/2013 9:13 AM, micky wrote:
hhOn Sat, 26 Oct 2013 07:52:51 -0500, gonjah
wrote:

On 10/26/2013 7:05 AM, micky wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2013 15:35:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:
Your roofer is an idiot. But you prefer the turbines, and you have found a
roofer that is unable to properly install ridge vents.
It is indeed nice to see people find each other.
But on a particularly hot day, with no breeze, see how fast those turbines
are spinning. Not at all? Why shucks, what a surprise.
Higher rate of ventilation? Naah, doing the math would obviously tax your
poor roofer's tender brain, there are knuckle-draggers in every profession.
But I do hate to see a ridge vent referred to as restrictive. At 2 square
inches
per each lineal inch, that's a square foot of opening every six feet.
Oh well, everyone is entitled to their opinion, that includes your roofer.
BUT, read the warranty for the roofing shingles your roofer applies. See how
many square feet of ventilation opening there needs to be, divided between
peak
and soffit, AS A MINIMUM TO KEEP THE WARRANTY FROM BEING VOID.
I happen to know what it is for Owens-Corning, and they don't say that it
doesn't
apply if you install turbines.

Al wrote in message
.. .
Why do you think Turbine Vents are no good? My roofer says that ridge
vents
often leak, and they get plugged up after a year or two. He says that
turbine vents are much better, provide a higher rate of ventilation, and
provide consistent ventilation over a restrictive ridge vent.

I mounted my turbine vents according to the instructions just one foot
below
the peak. They cannot be seen from the front or sides of my house. The
ridge vents are damn ugly to me and my wife.

Al
"Thomas G. Baker" wrote in message
...
Absolutely correct. Mr. Baugh is right again.
The issue has been discussed frequently and the answer is always the
same.
TB


Michael Baugh wrote:

Start with ridge venting, and I prefer metal rather than some plastic
product, especially
in the hot sun. And have the sections sealed with 50 year pure
silicone.
And after the roof job, put in more soffit venting to support the
process.
Turbine vents? Powered vents? Not even a consideration. IMO.

wrote in message
...
I have to replace my composite shingle roof because of hail damage.
I live in San Antonio, TX
The house is a 1 story, 1900 sq. ft. 8 years old.
The roofing material is 3 tab 20 year composite.

Should I install the regular spin turbines on the roof for
ventilation, or ridge vents, or powered turtle vents?

I want the most effective efficient ventilation possible for my
house.

Thanks for your suggestions.




So let me clarify this for the "knuckle draggers" and "idiots"....12 square inches equals one square foot???????...

It would be better if you put your comments just under the line you
are referring to.

don't see anywhere where he says 12 sq.in. = 1 square foot.



"At 2 square inches per each lineal inch, that's a square foot of
opening every six feet."

Where does this mention 12 square inches?

6' = 72"

Which, by my calculations, comes out to 1 square foot.

2*72=144

Yes, it comes out to 1 square foot, but where do you get the left side
of what you claimed it said, that is, the idea that it says 12 sq. in.
are equal to that square foot? Where do you find "12 sq. in."?


I donno. A misunderstanding?


He does use the word lineal where most would say linear.

I was told my house would look like a chicken coop if I wanted to go the
turbine route.

Or a factory, I suppose.

I have a ridge vent on the peak and so far no problems. I
doubt my soffit vents were measured though.

But you can still describe them. You can measure their length while
standing on the ground, and you can estimate their width while still
on the ground too. I have a town house. Mine are the width of the
town house, times 2 (front and back of the house), times about 8
inches. I'm sure that's more than enough.


I have measured (at one point) and I think they were a little
inadequate. My point was, I don't know what the soffit's air flow is.
There could be insulation blocking some of them, and with my vaulted
ceiling, I'm not going in there to see if there are obstructions. I have
large "ridge vents" (not peak ridge vents, but I have those too) on both
sides of my attic and I don't know how that effects the soffit's
airflow. I do have peak ridge vents too so I'm guessing the ventilation
is probably better than most. I'll admit I don't really know.


I have what is, iirc, sometimes called a powered vent. It's an
electric fan in the pitched roof, near the top. I can't see it from
the front or side, but if I could I wouldn't mind. It has a low
profile, a brown top which goes nicely with the light brown shingles.

I think it uses substantial current, but I haven't tried to measure.
It has a thermostat and turns on between 10 AM and noon, and off
between 6PM and midnight. On some very hot nights it may not turn
off, which is bad. Maybe I should readjust the thermostat.

I installed 2 switches, to turn it on when it was off or off when it
was on. On when it would be off is meant to remove the humidity
from the attic after a long shower, but I don't take such showers so
I'll never use that. Off when it would be on could be used those
nights when it doesn't turn off, but when I do that, I forget to turn
it back on the next morning. and maybe for days. I do however
turn the fan off for late fall and early spring, when I use the heat
in the attic to warm the house. Maybe if I had more insulation in the
attic, that wouldn't work but maybe the attic heat wouldn't reach the
house in mid-summer either.

I also have a ridge vent the whole width of the house and it seems
possible that air would come in that way and go right out through the
fan, but the heavy layer of cottonwood seeds I used to get along their
entire length show that a lot of air is coming in through the soffits.

For all I know they don't
even work.

Why wouldn't they work? They're holes. How can a hole break?

Two ways. 1) Someone allowed the attic insulation to cover the
soffit vents. Go up in at dawn, before it gets hot, and you should be
able to see the light coming through all the vents. If you don't,
clear away the excess insulation or whatever.

Bingo...You'd have to see my attic. There is very little working room in
over 70% of the attic. Parts are completely inaccessible. You cannot see
or go near the inside of the soffits. I could remove the covers and see
what I can see, but I doubt it would be much. I've looked at the ones I
can inside the attic and they are fine. I'd have to assume the guys that
put the insulation in years ago knew what they were doing on the rest of
it.

The vents look like they function, (they get lint on them) but if they
are up to par, I don't know.

2) Cottonwood or milkwood seeds have covered the vents from below
(since the soffits afe probably screened. I used to have to remove
a layer like felt from the screens every 10 years or so, but last
summer the cottonwood tree fell down, and I think there is no other,
so I think that problem is solved.

You can't see the felt covering very well if you're 15 feet below, but
you can probably look out a second floor window and see if you have to
do clean it off.

I have those large ridge vent openings on both sides of my
attic.


See....with the large vents on both sides of the attic, I don't know if
the soffits are doing much even if they are functioning properly. The
vents on my attic are quite large. There used to be a attic fan and
thermostat on one of the large vents, but when I installed the peak
vents, I disconnected it. I figured it was a waste of electricity.

On Saturday, October 26, 2013 10:13:14 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:

I have what is, iirc, sometimes called a powered vent. It's an

electric fan in the pitched roof, near the top. I can't see it from

the front or side, but if I could I wouldn't mind. It has a low

profile, a brown top which goes nicely with the light brown shingles.



I think it uses substantial current,

A small fan like that doesn't use much power, but
it does cost something and will add up over the years,
when the alternative is free.



but I haven't tried to measure.

It has a thermostat and turns on between 10 AM and noon, and off

between 6PM and midnight. On some very hot nights it may not turn

off, which is bad. Maybe I should readjust the thermostat.



If it runs all night it's definitely set too low.




I installed 2 switches, to turn it on when it was off or off when it

was on. On when it would be off is meant to remove the humidity

from the attic after a long shower, but I don't take such showers so

I'll never use that.

How is humidity getting into the attic from taking a shower?
Something isn't right.


Off when it would be on could be used those

nights when it doesn't turn off, but when I do that, I forget to turn

it back on the next morning. and maybe for days. I do however

turn the fan off for late fall and early spring, when I use the heat

in the attic to warm the house. Maybe if I had more insulation in the

attic, that wouldn't work but maybe the attic heat wouldn't reach the

house in mid-summer either.


More insulation is going to have a bigger impact than the
fan.





I also have a ridge vent the whole width of the house and it seems

possible that air would come in that way and go right out through the

fan, but the heavy layer of cottonwood seeds I used to get along their

entire length show that a lot of air is coming in through the soffits.



Most pros and building science experts today recommend
the ridge vent approach. Some argue that a powered fan
is better, at least in some cases.
But they seem to agree that you should have one
or the other, never both because of the short circuiting
effect. They say with a ridge vent you shouldn't even
have gable vents, for the same reason.

On 10/26/2013 9:19 AM, gonjah wrote:
On 10/26/2013 7:15 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Did you check the date of the post? Post from
July 2001 probably not relevant any more.

May as well just go-with-the-flow.

Archived posts are popping up all over the place. Somebody said it's due
to Google Groups.

I don't look at dates so I assume they are recent. OTOH, the subject is
still meaningful and has generated much interest.

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 00:41:38 -0500, CRNG
wrote:

On Fri, 25 Oct 2013 22:47:43 -0500, philo* wrote
in Re Why are turbine vents no
good???:

On 10/25/2013 05:35 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, 1 July 2001 23:32:52 UTC-4, Michael B wrote:


Speak about dumb...the original post is 12 years old!

It takes a while for gmail users to catch onto something.

Google groupies aren't very bright. ...only one small step above
Democrats.

On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 09:17:54 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:



I installed 2 switches, to turn it on when it was off or off when it

was on. On when it would be off is meant to remove the humidity

from the attic after a long shower, but I don't take such showers so

I'll never use that.

How is humidity getting into the attic from taking a shower?

It isn't. That's the reason the instructions say to put in the second
switch, to turn the fan on when the thermostat would keep it off.
Since it took 5 extra minutes and 4 extra dollars to install the 2nd
switch, I did so, in case the next owner of the house can benefit from
it.

Something isn't right.

I don't know if it would or not if I ever took a long shower. I'm not
going to do so and then riush up to the attic just to find out.

"CRNG" wrote in message ...
On Fri, 25 Oct 2013 22:47:43 -0500, philo wrote

snip

--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

Date shown in my reader is 10/25/2013. Maybe Google
re-populated or something, and things are filtering
out to other severs, such as mine. Even checking the
properties does not reveal the original posting date.

Just sayin'...

On Saturday, October 26, 2013 8:12:16 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Sat, 26 Oct 2013 09:17:54 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:







I installed 2 switches, to turn it on when it was off or off when it



was on. On when it would be off is meant to remove the humidity



from the attic after a long shower, but I don't take such showers so



I'll never use that.



How is humidity getting into the attic from taking a shower?



It isn't.

You said:
"On when it (attic fan) would be off is meant to remove the humidity
from the attic after a long shower"

So, what exactly do you mean?



That's the reason the instructions say to put in the second

switch, to turn the fan on when the thermostat would keep it off.

Since it took 5 extra minutes and 4 extra dollars to install the 2nd

switch, I did so, in case the next owner of the house can benefit from

it.



Something isn't right.



I don't know if it would or not if I ever took a long shower. I'm not

going to do so and then riush up to the attic just to find out.

Good grief. Now we get to the bottom line. Do you have a vapor
barrier installed? Proper attic ventilation besides just the electric
fan? There are millions of houses out there with and without a
power attic fan, I've never seen one with that needed it to be
turned on if you took a shower. And I've never seen one without
that needed it either.