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#1
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Central air vs. mini split ?
Hello all -
I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Actually, if I found the right place with pre-existing ducting, I might even consider going to a full geothermal system. But that's a different topic. Thanks, - John |
#2
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Friday, August 23, 2013 12:52:36 PM UTC-4, John Albert wrote:
Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). It depends on the house, what it already has, and how easy or hard it is to run ducts. If the house has forced air heating, then generally no new ducts are required. If it has hot water heat, then a lot of ducts are required. How much work that is depends on the layout of the house, ie basement, crawlspace, etc. Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? MS is good for areas. One room or a few rooms. If you need and want to cool the whole house, as most people do, then central is what's needed. MS or even window AC can be used as a supplement to central AC. If you have a room that has a lot of sun exposure, isn't being cooled adequately by central, or a room you spend a lot of time it, etc. But if you're in an area with periods of high humidity, nothing beats central air. I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Yes, they always are. Another option you should look at is the new high velocity systems. They use air under pressure through like 1.5" hoses to deliver it. They are more expensive, but might be viable for a retrofit, because they use those hoses, not ducts. Actually, if I found the right place with pre-existing ducting, I might even consider going to a full geothermal system. But that's a different topic. Yes, it sure is. Thanks, - John |
#3
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Central air vs. mini split ?
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#6
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Saturday, August 24, 2013 10:35:43 AM UTC-4, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per : Unless the system were designed like a mini-split, I doubt you'd ever pay back the initial cost. Considering that the cost to zone our rec room was well over a grand, I'd have to agree with that. In retrospect, now that I know what a mini-split is, we would have been better served by installing same for the rec room - which is at ground level. I would think that the install would have been about as simple as such installs get. -- Pete Cresswell Only drawback is that the minisplit would have cost 2 to 3X. |
#7
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 10:35:43 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote: Per : Unless the system were designed like a mini-split, I doubt you'd ever pay back the initial cost. Considering that the cost to zone our rec room was well over a grand, I'd have to agree with that. In retrospect, now that I know what a mini-split is, we would have been better served by installing same for the rec room - which is at ground level. I would think that the install would have been about as simple as such installs get. I was thinking about a mini-split for the attic in our previous house. It had an air handler in the space I wanted to heat/AC but it would have been more work to use it than add a mini-split. OTOH, the solution ended up being to move. ;-) I my put a mini-split in our basement here. Like you said, installation would be a snap. |
#8
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Friday, August 23, 2013 7:47:46 PM UTC-4, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per : new high velocity systems. They use air under pressure through like 1.5" hoses to deliver it. They are more expensive, but might be viable for a retrofit, because they use those hoses, not ducts. My parent's place had a system where the air was delivered through what looked tb 1.5 or 2" hoses. It was a retrofit. I found the noise to be irritating enough that I would never have one installed in a house that I had to live in. I've only seen one in operation. It was during an open house for a house being sold. It was an old colonial style house and it was a hot summer day. The house was nice and cool, air was coming out of the vents and I did not notice any noise. But, can't say what level it was operating at either. They could have had it cranking before the open house, and cut it way back during, etc. My understanding is they have a design with special outlets that reduce the noise that you would expect. But how well that works probably varies from one manufacturer to the next. I would definitely want to see a few of the ones I was considering before having it installed. We recently re-did our system so that it has three zones: bedrooms, living room/kitchen, and rec room. If I ever built a house, I would have a zone for each room and doors to enforce the zones. I don't know about a zone for each room, but I agree that it's shocking that zoned systems, even doing just two, are not common on a single system. You do see a lot of new big two story homes with two zones via two separate systems, one in the basement, one in the attic. My thinking is that hard times are coming fuel cost-wise and more zones would allow one to cut back heating/cooling to just a couple of rooms - or even just one - if the need arose. -- Pete Cresswell Not only that, but increased comfort, as it can be balanced automatically. I think the big problem here is who pays for all this? Easiest and cheapest time to install that kind of system is during construction. But most homes are being built by spec builders, not homeowners. So, the builder may say to himself, if I sink an extra $5K into this, will the house sell for $10K, $15K more. Will a prospective buyer really care, etc. I see this kind of thing going on here in NJ all the time. Builders are building $700K - $1mil houses and doing lots of cheap things that are a long way from shelling out extra money for fancier HVAC. If I were a builder, I'd try doing some enhancements and then making that a feature that distinguishes me from the competition. Basically, yeah my house sells for $50K more, but look at x, y, and z, what I'm giving you. A good place to start would be bathroom fans. In those houses referenced about, they all use the cheapest, noisiest fan available. For just $30 more, you could get one that was much quieter. Then when you're selling it show that to the clients. |
#9
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 06:51:24 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Friday, August 23, 2013 7:47:46 PM UTC-4, (PeteCresswell) wrote: Per : new high velocity systems. They use air under pressure through like 1.5" hoses to deliver it. They are more expensive, but might be viable for a retrofit, because they use those hoses, not ducts. My parent's place had a system where the air was delivered through what looked tb 1.5 or 2" hoses. It was a retrofit. I found the noise to be irritating enough that I would never have one installed in a house that I had to live in. I've only seen one in operation. It was during an open house for a house being sold. It was an old colonial style house and it was a hot summer day. The house was nice and cool, air was coming out of the vents and I did not notice any noise. But, can't say what level it was operating at either. They could have had it cranking before the open house, and cut it way back during, etc. My understanding is they have a design with special outlets that reduce the noise that you would expect. But how well that works probably varies from one manufacturer to the next. I would definitely want to see a few of the ones I was considering before having it installed. We recently re-did our system so that it has three zones: bedrooms, living room/kitchen, and rec room. If I ever built a house, I would have a zone for each room and doors to enforce the zones. I don't know about a zone for each room, but I agree that it's shocking that zoned systems, even doing just two, are not common on a single system. You do see a lot of new big two story homes with two zones via two separate systems, one in the basement, one in the attic. My thinking is that hard times are coming fuel cost-wise and more zones would allow one to cut back heating/cooling to just a couple of rooms - or even just one - if the need arose. -- Pete Cresswell Not only that, but increased comfort, as it can be balanced automatically. I think the big problem here is who pays for all this? Easiest and cheapest time to install that kind of system is during construction. But most homes are being built by spec builders, not homeowners. So, the builder may say to himself, if I sink an extra $5K into this, will the house sell for $10K, $15K more. Will a prospective buyer really care, etc. I see this kind of thing going on here in NJ all the time. Builders are building $700K - $1mil houses and doing lots of cheap things that are a long way from shelling out extra money for fancier HVAC. If I were a builder, I'd try doing some enhancements and then making that a feature that distinguishes me from the competition. Basically, yeah my house sells for $50K more, but look at x, y, and z, what I'm giving you. A good place to start would be bathroom fans. In those houses referenced about, they all use the cheapest, noisiest fan available. For just $30 more, you could get one that was much quieter. Then when you're selling it show that to the clients. It's quite common. My previous house had two, 2T for the second floor (in the unheated attic space) and 3-1/2T on the main floor (no basement). This house has 4-1/2T for the main and a 1-1/2 for the second floor. Both are in the attic. No heat or AC in the basement. |
#10
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Saturday, August 24, 2013 3:06:11 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 06:51:24 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, August 23, 2013 7:47:46 PM UTC-4, (PeteCresswell) wrote: Per : new high velocity systems. They use air under pressure through like 1.5" hoses to deliver it. They are more expensive, but might be viable for a retrofit, because they use those hoses, not ducts. My parent's place had a system where the air was delivered through what looked tb 1.5 or 2" hoses. It was a retrofit. I found the noise to be irritating enough that I would never have one installed in a house that I had to live in. I've only seen one in operation. It was during an open house for a house being sold. It was an old colonial style house and it was a hot summer day. The house was nice and cool, air was coming out of the vents and I did not notice any noise. But, can't say what level it was operating at either. They could have had it cranking before the open house, and cut it way back during, etc. My understanding is they have a design with special outlets that reduce the noise that you would expect. But how well that works probably varies from one manufacturer to the next. I would definitely want to see a few of the ones I was considering before having it installed. We recently re-did our system so that it has three zones: bedrooms, living room/kitchen, and rec room. If I ever built a house, I would have a zone for each room and doors to enforce the zones. I don't know about a zone for each room, but I agree that it's shocking that zoned systems, even doing just two, are not common on a single system. You do see a lot of new big two story homes with two zones via two separate systems, one in the basement, one in the attic. My thinking is that hard times are coming fuel cost-wise and more zones would allow one to cut back heating/cooling to just a couple of rooms - or even just one - if the need arose. -- Pete Cresswell Not only that, but increased comfort, as it can be balanced automatically. I think the big problem here is who pays for all this? Easiest and cheapest time to install that kind of system is during construction. But most homes are being built by spec builders, not homeowners. So, the builder may say to himself, if I sink an extra $5K into this, will the house sell for $10K, $15K more. Will a prospective buyer really care, etc. I see this kind of thing going on here in NJ all the time. Builders are building $700K - $1mil houses and doing lots of cheap things that are a long way from shelling out extra money for fancier HVAC. If I were a builder, I'd try doing some enhancements and then making that a feature that distinguishes me from the competition. Basically, yeah my house sells for $50K more, but look at x, y, and z, what I'm giving you. A good place to start would be bathroom fans. In those houses referenced about, they all use the cheapest, noisiest fan available. For just $30 more, you could get one that was much quieter. Then when you're selling it show that to the clients. It's quite common. What's quite common? Three zones on a single system, like the poster is talking about? Or a two story house that has two entirely separate systems. The latter is common here too, but not zoning within a system. My previous house had two, 2T for the second floor (in the unheated attic space) and 3-1/2T on the main floor (no basement). This house has 4-1/2T for the main and a 1-1/2 for the second floor. Both are in the attic. No heat or AC in the basement. |
#11
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On 8/23/2013 12:18 PM, wrote:
On Friday, August 23, 2013 12:52:36 PM UTC-4, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). It depends on the house, what it already has, and how easy or hard it is to run ducts. If the house has forced air heating, then generally no new ducts are required. If it has hot water heat, then a lot of ducts are required. How much work that is depends on the layout of the house, ie basement, crawlspace, etc. Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? MS is good for areas. One room or a few rooms. If you need and want to cool the whole house, as most people do, then central is what's needed. MS or even window AC can be used as a supplement to central AC. If you have a room that has a lot of sun exposure, isn't being cooled adequately by central, or a room you spend a lot of time it, etc. But if you're in an area with periods of high humidity, nothing beats central air. I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Yes, they always are. Another option you should look at is the new high velocity systems. They use air under pressure through like 1.5" hoses to deliver it. They are more expensive, but might be viable for a retrofit, because they use those hoses, not ducts. You beat me to it. Johnstone Supply was carrying the units but all I see on their site are the parts for it. O_o http://spacepak.com/ TDD |
#12
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 18:48:06 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote: On 8/23/2013 12:18 PM, wrote: On Friday, August 23, 2013 12:52:36 PM UTC-4, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). It depends on the house, what it already has, and how easy or hard it is to run ducts. If the house has forced air heating, then generally no new ducts are required. If it has hot water heat, then a lot of ducts are required. How much work that is depends on the layout of the house, ie basement, crawlspace, etc. Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? MS is good for areas. One room or a few rooms. If you need and want to cool the whole house, as most people do, then central is what's needed. MS or even window AC can be used as a supplement to central AC. If you have a room that has a lot of sun exposure, isn't being cooled adequately by central, or a room you spend a lot of time it, etc. But if you're in an area with periods of high humidity, nothing beats central air. I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Yes, they always are. Another option you should look at is the new high velocity systems. They use air under pressure through like 1.5" hoses to deliver it. They are more expensive, but might be viable for a retrofit, because they use those hoses, not ducts. You beat me to it. Johnstone Supply was carrying the units but all I see on their site are the parts for it. O_o http://spacepak.com/ TDD They can drive you nuts - some are terribly LOUD, at an irritating frquency. |
#13
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On 8/23/2013 7:51 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 18:48:06 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/23/2013 12:18 PM, wrote: On Friday, August 23, 2013 12:52:36 PM UTC-4, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). It depends on the house, what it already has, and how easy or hard it is to run ducts. If the house has forced air heating, then generally no new ducts are required. If it has hot water heat, then a lot of ducts are required. How much work that is depends on the layout of the house, ie basement, crawlspace, etc. Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? MS is good for areas. One room or a few rooms. If you need and want to cool the whole house, as most people do, then central is what's needed. MS or even window AC can be used as a supplement to central AC. If you have a room that has a lot of sun exposure, isn't being cooled adequately by central, or a room you spend a lot of time it, etc. But if you're in an area with periods of high humidity, nothing beats central air. I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Yes, they always are. Another option you should look at is the new high velocity systems. They use air under pressure through like 1.5" hoses to deliver it. They are more expensive, but might be viable for a retrofit, because they use those hoses, not ducts. You beat me to it. Johnstone Supply was carrying the units but all I see on their site are the parts for it. O_o http://spacepak.com/ TDD They can drive you nuts - some are terribly LOUD, at an irritating frquency. The units remind me of the AC systems on passenger planes. ^_^ TDD |
#14
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 20:12:11 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote: On 8/23/2013 7:51 PM, wrote: On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 18:48:06 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote: On 8/23/2013 12:18 PM, wrote: On Friday, August 23, 2013 12:52:36 PM UTC-4, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). It depends on the house, what it already has, and how easy or hard it is to run ducts. If the house has forced air heating, then generally no new ducts are required. If it has hot water heat, then a lot of ducts are required. How much work that is depends on the layout of the house, ie basement, crawlspace, etc. Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? MS is good for areas. One room or a few rooms. If you need and want to cool the whole house, as most people do, then central is what's needed. MS or even window AC can be used as a supplement to central AC. If you have a room that has a lot of sun exposure, isn't being cooled adequately by central, or a room you spend a lot of time it, etc. But if you're in an area with periods of high humidity, nothing beats central air. I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Yes, they always are. Another option you should look at is the new high velocity systems. They use air under pressure through like 1.5" hoses to deliver it. They are more expensive, but might be viable for a retrofit, because they use those hoses, not ducts. You beat me to it. Johnstone Supply was carrying the units but all I see on their site are the parts for it. O_o http://spacepak.com/ TDD They can drive you nuts - some are terribly LOUD, at an irritating frquency. The units remind me of the AC systems on passenger planes. ^_^ Or the Motel-sex. |
#15
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 12:52:36 -0400, John Albert
wrote: I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. John, What region do you live in? Homes north of NAPA Valley, CA often have no HVAC at all - in any form. I can easily see a price of $25,00 plus, for a retrofit that needs ducts, and a high SEER unit (14-16 SEER). |
#16
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On 8/23/13 4:31 PM, Oren wrote:
What region do you live in? Homes north of NAPA Valley, CA often have no HVAC at all - in any form. I can easily see a price of $25,00 plus, for a retrofit that needs ducts, and a high SEER unit (14-16 SEER). The area I would be in the market for a new home in is central Pennsylvania - general area of Danville/Selinsgrove/Muncy/Bloomsburg. One other question for the group that I forgot to ask: I've seen some homes that have "heat pumps" but no air conditioning. Is it relatively easy to add a central air unit and combine it with the heat pump's ducting? |
#17
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 23:14:59 -0400, John Albert
wrote: On 8/23/13 4:31 PM, Oren wrote: What region do you live in? Homes north of NAPA Valley, CA often have no HVAC at all - in any form. I can easily see a price of $25,00 plus, for a retrofit that needs ducts, and a high SEER unit (14-16 SEER). The area I would be in the market for a new home in is central Pennsylvania - general area of Danville/Selinsgrove/Muncy/Bloomsburg. One other question for the group that I forgot to ask: I've seen some homes that have "heat pumps" but no air conditioning. Is it relatively easy to add a central air unit and combine it with the heat pump's ducting? I've NEVER seen a heat pump that was not also air conditioning. |
#18
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Friday, August 23, 2013 11:31:09 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 23:14:59 -0400, John Albert wrote: On 8/23/13 4:31 PM, Oren wrote: What region do you live in? Homes north of NAPA Valley, CA often have no HVAC at all - in any form. I can easily see a price of $25,00 plus, for a retrofit that needs ducts, and a high SEER unit (14-16 SEER). The area I would be in the market for a new home in is central Pennsylvania - general area of Danville/Selinsgrove/Muncy/Bloomsburg. One other question for the group that I forgot to ask: I've seen some homes that have "heat pumps" but no air conditioning. Is it relatively easy to add a central air unit and combine it with the heat pump's ducting? I've NEVER seen a heat pump that was not also air conditioning. +1 to that. Also, he's in PA. Conventional heat pump systems I would think would be rare there. I don't know of a single one here in coastal NJ, where the climate is even milder. I do know of one geothermal heat pump system. But the cost and payback on that is in lala land AFAIK. There are also hybrid systems, where nat gas is used together with a heat pump. But again, don't know of a single one of those here either. Another factor with heat pump systems is you're locking yourself in to electric as the energy source. For sure if nat gas is available, I would not do that. The US has an abundance of nat gas, prices are low, wells are being drilled everywhere. With electric, you have the reliance on coal, ever increasing costs to make it cleaner, a possible CO2 tax on the plants, etc. And solar sure isn't cheap. Part of the high cost of electricity here in NJ is that the state is soaking us all with a tax on it to pay for yuppies to install solar panels. The exception to using electric to run a heat pump would be if you're located somewhere that the climate permits and where you're reasonably sure that the cost of electric will be low and stable, eg it's coming from hydro. Or of course, if for some other reason the other choices are even worse in your area. |
#19
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 23:14:59 -0400, John Albert
wrote: The area I would be in the market for a new home in is central Pennsylvania - general area of Danville/Selinsgrove/Muncy/Bloomsburg. I used to live in Milton and worked in Lewisburg. We had no HVAC unit and used oil burner with floor hot water vents for heat. A ranch style house with a partially finished basement that we spent much of the summer downstairs when at home. The house had a whole house attic fan we could pull the heat out in the summer. |
#20
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 07:10:52 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 23:14:59 -0400, John Albert wrote: The area I would be in the market for a new home in is central Pennsylvania - general area of Danville/Selinsgrove/Muncy/Bloomsburg. I used to live in Milton and worked in Lewisburg. We had no HVAC unit and used oil burner with floor hot water vents for heat. A ranch style house with a partially finished basement that we spent much of the summer downstairs when at home. The house had a whole house attic fan we could pull the heat out in the summer. When we lived in the Poughkeepsie NY area, we didn't have AC but relied on a whole house fan (and a swimming pool ;-). It worked, but I don't think I could handle it anymore. I pretty much rely on the heat pump six months of the year, even in GA. |
#21
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 23:14:59 -0400, John Albert
wrote: The area I would be in the market for a new home in is central Pennsylvania - general area of Danville/Selinsgrove/Muncy/Bloomsburg. John, BTW, I would avoid Selinsgrove. Knock it off the list. Danville has a top medical trauma center. Nice area. I sold my house in Milton to folks in the medical field. Buyers were lined up so I picked the buyer. Muncy is nice and family oriented. Bloomburg, I've been there a couple times for the fairs - never checked housing though. Centralia, Pennsylvania still has coal mines burning today. They cannot be extinguished by anything so far. Since 1962. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centralia,_Pennsylvania#Mine_fire |
#22
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On 8/24/13 5:32 PM, Oren wrote:
BTW, I would avoid Selinsgrove. Knock it off the list. Danville has a top medical trauma center. Nice area. I sold my house in Milton to folks in the medical field. Buyers were lined up so I picked the buyer. Muncy is nice and family oriented. Bloomburg, I've been there a couple times for the fairs - never checked housing though. I've been familiar with the general area since 1987. Even had a small apartment in the Montgomery area for a few months, but moving there permanently in '88 wasn't going to work out. I forgot to mention the Milton area -- how is it, generally? I spoke to an older couple in Beavertown who built their current house with geothermal -- they couldn't say enough about it. Cheap and efficient for the central PA climate. |
#23
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Sun, 25 Aug 2013 15:33:14 -0400, John Albert
wrote: On 8/24/13 5:32 PM, Oren wrote: BTW, I would avoid Selinsgrove. Knock it off the list. Danville has a top medical trauma center. Nice area. I sold my house in Milton to folks in the medical field. Buyers were lined up so I picked the buyer. Muncy is nice and family oriented. Bloomburg, I've been there a couple times for the fairs - never checked housing though. I've been familiar with the general area since 1987. Even had a small apartment in the Montgomery area for a few months, but moving there permanently in '88 wasn't going to work out. A guy in Watsontown still does my income taxes since 1990, when I moved to Milton. I'm now in Nevada. I forgot to mention the Milton area -- how is it, generally? Milton is a wonderful town. Small, across the Susquehanna River into Lewisburg. At Noon on Wednesday the shops in town close for the afternoon. The house I owned was a red brick ranch style, a distance from the river and flood safe. I was the 3rd owner of a 33 year-old house ('90). The first owner was a builder and built HIS custom home. When I sold it, the 2nd owner wanted it back for his son. I gave a price privately and he balked. I had no trouble getting my price as folks working in the medical field had an easy drive to Danville. Milton is a couple hours drive to Philly or NJ. I bought the house before my wife ever saw it as she was still Upstate NY. She still loves the house we lived in. I spoke to an older couple in Beavertown who built their current house with geothermal -- they couldn't say enough about it. Cheap and efficient for the central PA climate. Today, This Old House had an episode on geothermal, drilling, trenches, etc. The trench to the house from the wells needed to be five feet down. They encountered a granite shelf, so dynamite was used. My place in Milton had shale. The neighbor (a real craftsman) milled the roof trusses in Milton at his job when the house was built. I vote Milton or Danville :-) |
#24
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On 8/23/2013 12:52 PM, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Actually, if I found the right place with pre-existing ducting, I might even consider going to a full geothermal system. But that's a different topic. Thanks, - John I don't have any technical knowledge about this. I can say that about 12 years ago, I had central AC added to my 1950s row house (basement plus 2 stories). The house had forced hot air, which the local utilities company used. At the time they warned me that the outcome would be that it would cool the 1st floor living area fine, but not so much the top floor. They were right, although it was definitely an improvement over what it had been like with no AC. I forget now how expensive it was, but they used the existing duct work and fan etc which helped to defray the costs. Now I'm in a small 2 bedroom ranch that has central air. I'm almost positive that was an add-on as well since it's also a 1950's house. It does cool the house well, presumably because it's not trying to push air uphill. There is one floor vent in a bedroom that looks out of place and a return up on a hall wall, so they may have run some additional duct work, but I don't know. FWIW, one of the houses that I looked at in this area (most of the houses in this neighborhood are identical) had been renovated and they'd put the AC (or maybe it was a heat pump?) in the attic. That seemed to work fairly well from what I could tell at the open house. |
#25
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Friday, August 23, 2013 4:32:57 PM UTC-4, Lee B wrote:
On 8/23/2013 12:52 PM, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Actually, if I found the right place with pre-existing ducting, I might even consider going to a full geothermal system. But that's a different topic. Thanks, - John I don't have any technical knowledge about this. I can say that about 12 years ago, I had central AC added to my 1950s row house (basement plus 2 stories). The house had forced hot air, which the local utilities company used. At the time they warned me that the outcome would be that it would cool the 1st floor living area fine, but not so much the top floor. They were right, although it was definitely an improvement over what it had been like with no AC. Even in two story houses that had AC installed when built, it's typical for the upper story to be warmer. Around here, NJ, they are going to two systems for larger houses now. One in the basement, one in the attic. That can help solve it, but also the system in the attic brings it's own problems. In my experience, a difference of two or three degrees in a house with a single system isn't unusual. This stuff isn't rocket science and you would think installers today could do a better job, but it is what it is. I forget now how expensive it was, but they used the existing duct work and fan etc which helped to defray the costs. Now I'm in a small 2 bedroom ranch that has central air. I'm almost positive that was an add-on as well since it's also a 1950's house. It does cool the house well, presumably because it's not trying to push air uphill. There is one floor vent in a bedroom that looks out of place and a return up on a hall wall, so they may have run some additional duct work, but I don't know. FWIW, one of the houses that I looked at in this area (most of the houses in this neighborhood are identical) had been renovated and they'd put the AC (or maybe it was a heat pump?) in the attic. That seemed to work fairly well from what I could tell at the open house. |
#26
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 12:52:36 -0400, John Albert
wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Actually, if I found the right place with pre-existing ducting, I might even consider going to a full geothermal system. But that's a different topic. Thanks, - John Forced air systems are MADE for central air, and vice versa. The ducting will be optimized for one or the other, but useable for both - or possibly a compromise for both - but it works. |
#27
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Central air vs. mini split ?
I worked for several years, helping a friend with
his HVAC business. We installed central AC into systems which had been designed for heat only. Very possible, and we did a bunch of them. Of course, the HVAC folks in your area may or may not offer this service. The boss didn't discuss prices with me, so I'm not sure what this all costs. .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. On 8/23/2013 12:52 PM, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Actually, if I found the right place with pre-existing ducting, I might even consider going to a full geothermal system. But that's a different topic. Thanks, - John |
#28
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On 8/23/2013 12:52 PM, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? There is no one answer. Central air can be installed in any house. It comes down to cost. If no ducts, you can run them, often trough attic spaces or from the basement, through closets, etc. Since you are looking at ranch stile, it may even be possible to install the evaporator and blower in the attic. As for using existing duct work, that depends on the layout and size. It may be possible, but it may have severe design limits too. That will vary with each house. Mini splits usually are easier to install. They also have the advantage of being operated in just the zones you want to cool if you have a portion of the house not occupied. The practicality will be determined by the layout of the house. Keep an open mind until you finally find your dream house and have a couple of HVAC contractors look at it. Better yet, build your own energy efficient house and install the geothermal right from the start. Use ICF construction and it will be quiet and strong. |
#29
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Saturday, August 24, 2013 8:16:19 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/23/2013 12:52 PM, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? There is no one answer. Central air can be installed in any house. It comes down to cost. If no ducts, you can run them, often trough attic spaces or from the basement, through closets, etc. Since you are looking at ranch stile, it may even be possible to install the evaporator and blower in the attic. As for using existing duct work, that depends on the layout and size. It may be possible, but it may have severe design limits too. That will vary with each house. Mini splits usually are easier to install. They also have the advantage of being operated in just the zones you want to cool if you have a portion of the house not occupied. The practicality will be determined by the layout of the house. Keep an open mind until you finally find your dream house and have a couple of HVAC contractors look at it. Better yet, build your own energy efficient house and install the geothermal right from the start. Use ICF construction and it will be quiet and strong. You're in CT I think? Are you seeing geothermal being economically advantageous there? I'm not up on the latest prices, but I haven't seen anything that changes what it needs, eg wells drilled, etc that make it cost a whole lot of money. I guess if nat gas isn't available, and oil is the other choice, then maybe it could make sense. There is one system installed here in my neighborhood. But with nat gas available there, it makes no sense to me. |
#30
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 07:22:07 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: You're in CT I think? Are you seeing geothermal being economically advantageous there? I'm not up on the latest prices, but I haven't seen anything that changes what it needs, eg wells drilled, etc that make it cost a whole lot of money. I guess if nat gas isn't available, and oil is the other choice, then maybe it could make sense. There is one system installed here in my neighborhood. But with nat gas available there, it makes no sense to me. I know of two geothermal installations. One was done because he could, not because of any money savings. The other was for economy, but I don't know the detail, but it is a very long payback. From what little I know, the well cost is the one big deterrent. Wish I could get gas. I did upgrade my oil boiler and save a bunch, but gas would be better yet. |
#31
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Central air vs. mini split ?
about 6 years ago I got a new 90+ furnace with AC installed in my 1950 2 story home. Goodman cost under 4 grand and its worked great. used all existing ductwork except the plenemum to the furnace. central air is wonderful
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#32
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Friday, August 23, 2013 1:36:04 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 23 Aug 2013 12:52:36 -0400, John Albert wrote: Hello all - I may be buying a house before too long, and a few questions about installing air conditioning into a home that lacks it. House will be ranch-style, 1600-1900 sq. ft. I have no house in particular picked out yet, but some I'm interested would be fine -- EXCEPT for the fact that they were not built with air conditioning. I'm wondering about the pros/cons of installing a "mini split" system (with multiple "room units" or perhaps more than one mini split unit), vis-a-vis going for central air...? Just from casual browsing, it looks like mini split would be considerably cheaper and easier to install than a full central air system with ducting, etc. (the latter probably involving a LOT of wall/floor work as well). Is central air worth paying the extra $$$ and installation work? Or can mini split do as good a job, have equal reliability, etc.? I'm also wondering if pre-existing ducting in some homes that have either oil or gas hot air, could also be used with a central air system? Actually, if I found the right place with pre-existing ducting, I might even consider going to a full geothermal system. But that's a different topic. Thanks, - John I have been researching the same thing myself. If you already have forced air you might be able to use the existing duct work by adding A/C registers in the ceiling but it all depends on how the ducts are run. In a retro fit, if you need extensive duct work a minisplit ends up being competitive or even cheaper. Then the question becomes, how many condenser do you want. There are multi head systems but they end up being almost as expensive as using a one to one setup with multiple condensers and heads. The first thing you have to do is create a scope of work on the particular house to see what is necessary to do the install. Equipment alone 2400 BTU 3 head Fujitsu Mini Split $3400 3600 BTU 3 head Fujitsu Mini Split $4550 3600 BTU Trane 16 seer central (air handler and condenser) $3980 with a $585 rebate from FPL. That does not include duct work, copper or labor. Agree with your overall points. But that cost for the 36K BTU central eqpt is way high. It might be Tranes price, but you can get good eqpt from a company like Rheem for more like $2500. I bought a Rheem 5 ton/60K btu a couple years ago for about that price. It was 14.5 Seer though. Don't know what the price curves look like today, but 2 years ago, it didn't make sense to shell out the extra money for higher seer, the payback was just too long. That was for me here in NJ. If you're in AZ or FL, it could be different. |
#33
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Saturday, August 24, 2013 11:07:38 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 07:00:45 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, August 23, 2013 1:36:04 PM UTC-4, wrote: Equipment alone 2400 BTU 3 head Fujitsu Mini Split $3400 3600 BTU 3 head Fujitsu Mini Split $4550 3600 BTU Trane 16 seer central (air handler and condenser) $3980 with a $585 rebate from FPL. That does not include duct work, copper or labor. Agree with your overall points. But that cost for the 36K BTU central eqpt is way high. It might be Tranes price, but you can get good eqpt from a company like Rheem for more like $2500. I bought a Rheem 5 ton/60K btu a couple years ago for about that price. It was 14.5 Seer though. Don't know what the price curves look like today, but 2 years ago, it didn't make sense to shell out the extra money for higher seer, the payback was just too long. That was for me here in NJ. If you're in AZ or FL, it could be different. Are you talking about an air handler or just dropping an "A" coil in an existing furnace? Big price difference. In my case, it was without the air handler. But you can get whole AC only system eqpt, including the air handler for $2500 or less. Here's some examples: https://www.acwholesalers.com/Air-Co...inCat=&subCat= I know some will say you shouldn't buy Goodman because it's cheap. Others say they've had them and they are fine. When I was shopping for mine, the Rheem prices were only a few hundred more than Goodman. My old system was Ruud, which is made by same company as Rheem. Since it was still working after 25+ years, I chose Rheem. Been very happy with it. I bought it from the above website, but looks like they no longer sell Rheem. |
#34
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 13:09:01 -0400, wrote:
The thing that is holding me back on the 3 head minisplit right now is the placement of the ceiling cassette and how I will deal with the condensate. I would like to avoid a pump. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/house%20plan%20AC1.jpg What is a "ceiling cassette"? |
#35
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On 8/24/2013 3:54 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 13:09:01 -0400, wrote: The thing that is holding me back on the 3 head minisplit right now is the placement of the ceiling cassette and how I will deal with the condensate. I would like to avoid a pump. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/house%20plan%20AC1.jpg What is a "ceiling cassette"? I've installed them and it's a self contained air handler and evaporator that is designed to fit suspended ceilings 2 foot by 2 foot in a space taken by two ceiling tiles. The units can also be ceiling mounted in other types of ceilings by cutting out a large enough opening. The air is drawn in through the center where the filter is and the conditioned air is discharged around the periphery of the unit. There are both commercial and residential systems. It's a mini-split in a different form. ^_^ http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/cassette.htm http://www.friedrich.com/products/re...iling-cassette https://tinyurl.com/lp8y9go TDD |
#36
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 17:35:10 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote: What is a "ceiling cassette"? I've installed them and it's a self contained air handler and evaporator that is designed to fit suspended ceilings 2 foot by 2 foot in a space taken by two ceiling tiles. The units can also be ceiling mounted in other types of ceilings by cutting out a large enough opening. The air is drawn in through the center where the filter is and the conditioned air is discharged around the periphery of the unit. There are both commercial and residential systems. It's a mini-split in a different form. ^_^ http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/cassette.htm Thanks. I was curious about the duct shown in gfretwell's drawing. It appears there are "knockouts" if you want to run two 4" ducts? A PDF seemed to show one side having a _whachamacallit_ for a 4" duct. "Outside air can be introduced by attaching field supplied flexible duct to fresh air knockouts." |
#37
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 21:44:40 -0400, wrote:
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 13:54:34 -0700, Oren wrote: On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 13:09:01 -0400, wrote: The thing that is holding me back on the 3 head minisplit right now is the placement of the ceiling cassette and how I will deal with the condensate. I would like to avoid a pump. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/house%20plan%20AC1.jpg What is a "ceiling cassette"? A square evaporator that can go in the ceiling or even drop into a 2x2 T bar ceiling hole. Air comes out all 4 sides and the return is up the middle. http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/comp_cassette.htm Thanks. It looks like there is only "one" side that can accommodate a 4" duct. correct? The other sides cool/heat the LR, DR & Kitchen? You mention the condensate line, can it be run the shortest route to an outside wall above the ceiling? (just thinking) |
#38
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On 8/25/2013 1:43 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 21:44:40 -0400, wrote: On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 13:54:34 -0700, Oren wrote: On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 13:09:01 -0400, wrote: The thing that is holding me back on the 3 head minisplit right now is the placement of the ceiling cassette and how I will deal with the condensate. I would like to avoid a pump. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/house%20plan%20AC1.jpg What is a "ceiling cassette"? A square evaporator that can go in the ceiling or even drop into a 2x2 T bar ceiling hole. Air comes out all 4 sides and the return is up the middle. http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/comp_cassette.htm Thanks. It looks like there is only "one" side that can accommodate a 4" duct. correct? The other sides cool/heat the LR, DR & Kitchen? You mention the condensate line, can it be run the shortest route to an outside wall above the ceiling? (just thinking) I installed condensate pumps on many of my installations. ^_^ http://www.amazon.com/KT-15-1UL-Hart...m/B000RHVDVQ/2 https://tinyurl.com/c4pyw4h TDD |
#39
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Central air vs. mini split ?
On Saturday, August 24, 2013 1:09:01 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 09:38:27 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Saturday, August 24, 2013 11:07:38 AM UTC-4, wrote: On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 07:00:45 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Friday, August 23, 2013 1:36:04 PM UTC-4, wrote: Equipment alone 2400 BTU 3 head Fujitsu Mini Split $3400 3600 BTU 3 head Fujitsu Mini Split $4550 3600 BTU Trane 16 seer central (air handler and condenser) $3980 with a $585 rebate from FPL. That does not include duct work, copper or labor. Agree with your overall points. But that cost for the 36K BTU central eqpt is way high. It might be Tranes price, but you can get good eqpt from a company like Rheem for more like $2500. I bought a Rheem 5 ton/60K btu a couple years ago for about that price. It was 14.5 Seer though. Don't know what the price curves look like today, but 2 years ago, it didn't make sense to shell out the extra money for higher seer, the payback was just too long. That was for me here in NJ. If you're in AZ or FL, it could be different. Are you talking about an air handler or just dropping an "A" coil in an existing furnace? Big price difference. In my case, it was without the air handler. But you can get whole AC only system eqpt, including the air handler for $2500 or less. Here's some examples: https://www.acwholesalers.com/Air-Co...inCat=&subCat= I know some will say you shouldn't buy Goodman because it's cheap. Others say they've had them and they are fine. When I was shopping for mine, the Rheem prices were only a few hundred more than Goodman. My old system was Ruud, which is made by same company as Rheem. Since it was still working after 25+ years, I chose Rheem. Been very happy with it. I bought it from the above website, but looks like they no longer sell Rheem. Then the question becomes SEER, The one I bought was 14 or 14.5 is that a variable speed A/H? Probably not. Yes it was. In a place with a 7 month A/C season, SEER will quickly eat up that thousand bucks you saved. I'm in NJ, the house is in a shady location surrounded by lots of trees and I have mostly a 3 month season for AC. My electric bill for the AC is probably $400 a year. It would take a long time to make up the savings to justify going to a higher SEER. The total cost for the HVAC eqpt, 120K BTU 93% furnace, var speed blower, 5 ton 14 SEER AC, lines, condensate pump, compressor base, etc was about $4K. I also think there is a quality difference but that may just be me. Before I bought mine, I looked at Consumer Reports listings of reported repair history for the various brands. It was interesting. There wasn't much you could conclude. Some of what you would think would be the better brands appeared to be no different than any of the others. I think Ruud in fact had one of the better histories, but from the data as I recall, my overall conclusion was that there wasn't a lot of difference. And with any of these, I'd rather have a correctly installed brand of less expensive eqpt than a poorly installed system using expensive stuff. In fact, you have to wonder how much of the perceived problems people have with certain brands may be due not to the eqpt, but the fact that installers using less expensive eqpt cut corners on the install to save money too. Like not flowing nitrogen during brazing, for example. Customer would never know, and few years later the crud causes the system to fail. Although the complexity may be a factor, it is almost as cheap to get single head mini splits and have a bunch of them. That also gets you very high SEERs, up in the 20s. The one we put in the bedroom is 26 SEER. It also makes zoning an absolute thing. Each one is 100% separate. I think the big downside is where do you put all the outside units, hide them where they won't be heard, etc. When I did my replace 2 years ago, I was about to do monkey see, monkey do, ie just put the compressor where the old one was. Then, I started thinking. The old one was right outside my family room where we watch TV a lot. I quickly concluded that with maybe 10 ft more piping, I could move it to outside the master bathroom. The electric run was actually much shorter and I reused the existing cable. Doing that, combined with the fact that the new Rheem is a lot quieter made a big difference. The thing that is holding me back on the 3 head minisplit right now is the placement of the ceiling cassette and how I will deal with the condensate. I would like to avoid a pump. Yes, that's another problem. And if you have a central, at least it's only 1 pump, or possibly none, if you can route it to a sump pump pit, etc. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/house%20plan%20AC1.jpg |
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