My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when my wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the same GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.

I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows all three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the dedicated 220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with the tester.

What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15 years old) has a component that has gone belly up.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 11:28:37 AM UTC-4, wrote:
My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when my wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the same GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.



I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows all three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the dedicated 220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with the tester.



What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15 years old) has a component that has gone belly up.



Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Very strange. Unless the two circuits are wired together somehow,
what happens on one should not cause a GFCI to trip on the other.
My first suspicion would be that there is something wrong with the
GFCI and I'd try replacing it.

On 07/11/2013 11:28 AM, wrote:
My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently
started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when my
wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the same
GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.

I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows all
three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the dedicated
220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with the tester.

What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15 years
old) has a component that has gone belly up.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?


There seems to be some weird interaction going on, possibly inside the
breaker panel? I would inspect the neutral and ground connections to
the bus bars for both circuits and make sure that they are good and
tight, and also that none of the hot wires for any of these circuits are
touching each other (e.g. wires stripped too long where they enter the
breakers, and somehow making contact.) Whatever the issue is it should
definitely be fixed!

Additionally keep in mind that stoves are weird (as are electric dryers)
usually one would expect a dedicated ground conductor for that circuit
as is normal for every other branch circuit. However up until fairly
recently it was normal practice to only pull a three conductor cable
(hot, hot, neutral) to those outlets and at the appliance connect the
case of the appliance to neutral - which means that the case of a stove
or electric dryer is connected to a potentially current carrying
conductor. If everything is working correctly this is not a problem as
it should always be at 0V but that is assuming, as I say, that
everything is working correctly... so if you identify a bad neutral
situation and you can't fix it yourself you should unplug the stove and
not use it until the issue is corrected.

Unless you're familiar with "hot work" I would definitely throw the main
breaker before taking the breaker panel cover off, and even then
approach with extreme caution as the service wires coming in from the
meter are still live and definitely have the potential to kill you. If
you're not comfortable with that, you know what I'm going to say next...

good luck

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:01:11 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 11:28:37 AM UTC-4, wrote:

My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when my wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the same GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.







I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows all three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the dedicated 220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with the tester.







What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15 years old) has a component that has gone belly up.







Anyone have any thoughts on this?



Very strange. Unless the two circuits are wired together somehow,

what happens on one should not cause a GFCI to trip on the other.

My first suspicion would be that there is something wrong with the

GFCI and I'd try replacing it.

I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.

With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at breaker box the GFI tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester in the outlet and turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two right lights on tester go dim and the left most light flickers. When stove is unplugged and I repeat there is no difference at tester when circuit is in 'on' or 'off' position at breaker.

This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI tripping. I am vexed.

On 07/11/2013 12:34 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:01:11 PM UTC-4,
wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 11:28:37 AM UTC-4,
wrote:

My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently
started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when
my wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the
same GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.







I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows
all three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the
dedicated 220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with
the tester.







What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15
years old) has a component that has gone belly up.







Anyone have any thoughts on this?



Very strange. Unless the two circuits are wired together somehow,

what happens on one should not cause a GFCI to trip on the other.

My first suspicion would be that there is something wrong with the

GFCI and I'd try replacing it.

I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.

With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at breaker
box the GFI tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester
in the outlet and turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two
right lights on tester go dim and the left most light flickers. When
stove is unplugged and I repeat there is no difference at tester when
circuit is in 'on' or 'off' position at breaker.

This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI tripping.
I am vexed.


I'm making the assumption that the two circuits are completely separate
once they leave the breaker box. Your additional info leads me to
believe that the next logical step is to open up the breaker box and
look inside. I'm really not sure what you'll find but it just makes
sense that that's the next place to look.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

wrote in message
...
I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.

With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at breaker box the
GFI .tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester in the
outlet and turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two right
lights on tester go dim and the left most light flickers. When stove is
unplugged and I repeat there is no difference at tester when circuit is in
'on' or 'off' position at breaker.

This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI tripping. I am
vexed.

I think I would start looking for loose connections. Especially the neutral
wires.
Try starting at the breaker pannel first.

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:48:29 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message

...

I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.



With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at breaker box the

GFI .tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester in the

outlet and turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two right

lights on tester go dim and the left most light flickers. When stove is

unplugged and I repeat there is no difference at tester when circuit is in

'on' or 'off' position at breaker.



This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI tripping. I am

vexed.



I think I would start looking for loose connections. Especially the neutral

wires.

Try starting at the breaker pannel first.

Good suggestion. I just don't understand why I only fail a test at the 110V receptacle when my stove is plugged into a separate cicuit. Wouldn't a lose connection fail a test whether the stove is plugged in or not?

On 07/11/2013 12:52 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:48:29 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message

...

I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.



With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at
breaker box the

GFI .tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester
in the

outlet and turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two
right

lights on tester go dim and the left most light flickers. When
stove is

unplugged and I repeat there is no difference at tester when
circuit is in

'on' or 'off' position at breaker.



This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI
tripping. I am

vexed.



I think I would start looking for loose connections. Especially
the neutral

wires.

Try starting at the breaker pannel first.

Good suggestion. I just don't understand why I only fail a test at
the 110V receptacle when my stove is plugged into a separate cicuit.
Wouldn't a lose connection fail a test whether the stove is plugged
in or not?


I'm imagining something weird like someone added a supplemental ground
from the stove to a water pipe or something and that is being used as
the neutral because of a loose connection? but then you'd still have to
have another fault near the GFI. *shrug* this is actually a pretty good
head scratcher.

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 07/11/2013 01:00 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 07/11/2013 12:52 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:48:29 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message

...

I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.



With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at
breaker box the

GFI .tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester
in the

outlet and turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two
right

lights on tester go dim and the left most light flickers. When
stove is

unplugged and I repeat there is no difference at tester when
circuit is in

'on' or 'off' position at breaker.



This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI
tripping. I am

vexed.



I think I would start looking for loose connections. Especially
the neutral

wires.

Try starting at the breaker pannel first.

Good suggestion. I just don't understand why I only fail a test at
the 110V receptacle when my stove is plugged into a separate cicuit.
Wouldn't a lose connection fail a test whether the stove is plugged
in or not?


I'm imagining something weird like someone added a supplemental ground
from the stove to a water pipe or something and that is being used as
the neutral because of a loose connection? but then you'd still have to
have another fault near the GFI. *shrug* this is actually a pretty good
head scratcher.


Oooh, just had a thought.

Is this by chance a really old house that was originally wired with
ungrounded cable, and was fitted with supplemental grounds tailed to the
nearest ground point, back when grounding to copper water pipe was
acceptable?

If so, that combined with a loose neutral somewhere, *might* explain
your issue. I think. I'm kind of thinking out loud in this thread and
need to brain on it some more.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

wrote in message
...
My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently started to
throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when my wife turned the
oven light on. Now it's started to throw the same GFI at random times
even when the oven is not in use.

I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows all
three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the dedicated 220V
circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with the tester.

What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15 years old)
has a component that has gone belly up.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Check your neutral wire on your GFI receptacle it could be loose?
or it is loose where ever neutral coming from!

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
On 07/11/2013 01:00 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 07/11/2013 12:52 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:48:29 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message


Is this by chance a really old house that was originally wired with
ungrounded cable, and was fitted with supplemental grounds tailed to the
nearest ground point, back when grounding to copper water pipe was
acceptable?

If so, that combined with a loose neutral somewhere, *might* explain your
issue. I think. I'm kind of thinking out loud in this thread and need to
brain on it some more.

nate


I am thinking along the same line. If there is not a loose wire somewhere,
it is beginning to sound like the house has been wired in a shotty way and
maybe gounds and neutral wiring is ran all over the place instead of being
done correctly. The circuits would work , but when a GFCI is installed, it
will trip because of unballanced currents.

On 07/11/2013 01:33 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
On 07/11/2013 01:00 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 07/11/2013 12:52 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:48:29 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message


Is this by chance a really old house that was originally wired with
ungrounded cable, and was fitted with supplemental grounds tailed to the
nearest ground point, back when grounding to copper water pipe was
acceptable?

If so, that combined with a loose neutral somewhere, *might* explain your
issue. I think. I'm kind of thinking out loud in this thread and need to
brain on it some more.

nate


I am thinking along the same line. If there is not a loose wire somewhere,
it is beginning to sound like the house has been wired in a shotty way and
maybe gounds and neutral wiring is ran all over the place instead of being
done correctly. The circuits would work , but when a GFCI is installed, it
will trip because of unballanced currents.


I wouldn't call it "shoddy" - I have seen before in older homes e.g. a
dryer having a ground wire run from the case to the cold water hookup
for the washing machine. It's actually a pretty smart idea; even better
if it's sized properly and the bonding jumper is removed, even if it
doesn't meet current code. In effect you are providing the function and
protection that is now provided by the required 3 conductor plus ground
cable and four wire cord that is required for new construction. (of
course, I just installed a range into an older house that was removed
from a newer house when the owner upgraded... it had a four wire cord on
it but the bonding jumper wasn't removed. Saved me the trouble of
making up a heavy gauge pigtail, but clearly whoever did that didn't
realize why the four wire cord was there in the first place...)

Likewise with pigtail grounds on an older house... it wouldn't meet
code for a new installation, but it is making the best of a bad
situation if done right.

Now mixing neutrals... yeah, bad juju. But it would take a real idiot
to think that splicing a 6AWG wire to a 14AWG wire in an intermediate
box (and really, there shouldn't be any - at least the range should be a
straight run back to the panel) is a good idea. But every time I say
something like that someone shows that such an idiot actually exists.

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 07/11/2013 01:33 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
On 07/11/2013 01:00 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 07/11/2013 12:52 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:48:29 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message


Is this by chance a really old house that was originally wired with
ungrounded cable, and was fitted with supplemental grounds tailed to the
nearest ground point, back when grounding to copper water pipe was
acceptable?

If so, that combined with a loose neutral somewhere, *might* explain your
issue. I think. I'm kind of thinking out loud in this thread and need to
brain on it some more.

nate


I am thinking along the same line. If there is not a loose wire somewhere,
it is beginning to sound like the house has been wired in a shotty way and
maybe gounds and neutral wiring is ran all over the place instead of being
done correctly. The circuits would work , but when a GFCI is installed, it
will trip because of unballanced currents.


I wouldn't call it "shoddy" - I have seen before in older homes e.g. a
dryer having a ground wire run from the case to the cold water hookup
for the washing machine. It's actually a pretty smart idea; even better
if it's sized properly and the bonding jumper is removed, even if it
doesn't meet current code. In effect you are providing the function and
protection that is now provided by the required 3 conductor plus ground
cable and four wire cord that is required for new construction. (of
course, I just installed a range into an older house that was removed
from a newer house when the owner upgraded... it had a four wire cord on
it but the bonding jumper wasn't removed. Saved me the trouble of
making up a heavy gauge pigtail, but clearly whoever did that didn't
realize why the four wire cord was there in the first place...)

Likewise with pigtail grounds on an older house... it wouldn't meet
code for a new installation, but it is making the best of a bad
situation if done right.

Now mixing neutrals... yeah, bad juju. But it would take a real idiot
to think that splicing a 6AWG wire to a 14AWG wire in an intermediate
box (and really, there shouldn't be any - at least the range should be a
straight run back to the panel) is a good idea. But every time I say
something like that someone shows that such an idiot actually exists.

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Thu, 11 Jul 2013 08:28:37 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when my wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the same GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.

I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows all three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the dedicated 220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with the tester.

What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15 years old) has a component that has gone belly up.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?
The stove, on a separate 240 volt circuit, should not affect a
separate 120 volt circuit GFCI. However, since it happens when she
turns on the 120 volt oven light - which is on one side of the 240
volt circuit, I'd be looking for a bad neutral at the panel which is
throwing the cirduit out of balance - causing an unbalanced current
flow on the GFCI

On Thu, 11 Jul 2013 12:45:29 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

On 07/11/2013 12:34 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:01:11 PM UTC-4,
wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 11:28:37 AM UTC-4,
wrote:

My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently
started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when
my wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the
same GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.







I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows
all three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the
dedicated 220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with
the tester.







What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15
years old) has a component that has gone belly up.







Anyone have any thoughts on this?



Very strange. Unless the two circuits are wired together somehow,

what happens on one should not cause a GFCI to trip on the other.

My first suspicion would be that there is something wrong with the

GFCI and I'd try replacing it.

I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.

With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at breaker
box the GFI tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester
in the outlet and turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two
right lights on tester go dim and the left most light flickers. When
stove is unplugged and I repeat there is no difference at tester when
circuit is in 'on' or 'off' position at breaker.

This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI tripping.
I am vexed.


I'm making the assumption that the two circuits are completely separate
once they leave the breaker box. Your additional info leads me to
believe that the next logical step is to open up the breaker box and
look inside. I'm really not sure what you'll find but it just makes
sense that that's the next place to look.

nate
Is there, by chance, a "sub panel" feeding the kitchen???? If so a
bad neutral connection to the panel is almost guaranteed to be the
problem

On Thu, 11 Jul 2013 09:52:20 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:48:29 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message

...

I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.



With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at breaker box the

GFI .tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester in the

outlet and turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two right

lights on tester go dim and the left most light flickers. When stove is

unplugged and I repeat there is no difference at tester when circuit is in

'on' or 'off' position at breaker.



This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI tripping. I am

vexed.



I think I would start looking for loose connections. Especially the neutral

wires.

Try starting at the breaker pannel first.

Good suggestion. I just don't understand why I only fail a test at the 110V receptacle when my stove is plugged into a separate cicuit. Wouldn't a lose connection fail a test whether the stove is plugged in or not?

Maybe not. A loose connection on a wire that carries no current is
not going to affect anything. Your stove probably as a clock, at
least that runs all the time.

Is your stove electronic, or just an old fashioned stove with switches
and "burners".?

I agree with the suggestions about the neutral etc, but if those don't
work, testing the stove if is non-electronic will be simple. And then
just replace the single part that is bad,

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 9:50:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jul 2013 08:28:37 -0700 (PDT),

wrote:



My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when my wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the same GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.



I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows all three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the dedicated 220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with the tester.



What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15 years old) has a component that has gone belly up.



Anyone have any thoughts on this?

The stove, on a separate 240 volt circuit, should not affect a

separate 120 volt circuit GFCI. However, since it happens when she

turns on the 120 volt oven light - which is on one side of the 240

volt circuit, I'd be looking for a bad neutral at the panel which is

throwing the cirduit out of balance - causing an unbalanced current

flow on the GFCI

I still can't see how an unbalanced anything at the panel
is going to trip a GFCI outlet. The GFCI outlet is only
comparing the current leaving it and anything downstream it
also protects, with the current coming back on the neutral.
Regardless of what is happening back at the panel and the
oven, those currents at the outlet would be the same.

For this to be happening, you would think there would have
to be something either plugged into the outlet or connected
downstream of the GFCI outlet that is somehow linked back
to the oven.

On 7/11/2013 12:34 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 12:01:11 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 11:28:37 AM UTC-4, wrote:

My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when my wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the same GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.
I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows all three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the dedicated 220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with the tester.
What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15 years old) has a component that has gone belly up.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?


Very strange. Unless the two circuits are wired together somehow,

what happens on one should not cause a GFCI to trip on the other.

My first suspicion would be that there is something wrong with the

GFCI and I'd try replacing it.
I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.

With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at breaker box the GFI tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester in the outlet and turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two right lights on tester go dim and the left most light flickers. When stove is unplugged and I repeat there is no difference at tester when circuit is in 'on' or 'off' position at breaker.

This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI tripping. I am vexed.
Is the range plug and outlet 3 wire or 4 wire? If it is 3 wire, does the
circuit originate from the main electric panel, or from a sub panel?

On 07/12/2013 06:16 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, July 11, 2013 9:50:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jul 2013 08:28:37 -0700 (PDT),

wrote:



My electric oven is on its own 220V 50amp circuit. It recently started to throw a GFI outlet on a separate circuit (110V) when my wife turned the oven light on. Now it's started to throw the same GFI at random times even when the oven is not in use.



I checked the GFI receptacle w/ a three light tester and it shows all three lights on but dim. When I unplug the oven (on the dedicated 220V circuit) the 110V GFI checks out 'correct' with the tester.



What the heck is going on? My gut tells me that the stove (15 years old) has a component that has gone belly up.



Anyone have any thoughts on this?

The stove, on a separate 240 volt circuit, should not affect a

separate 120 volt circuit GFCI. However, since it happens when she

turns on the 120 volt oven light - which is on one side of the 240

volt circuit, I'd be looking for a bad neutral at the panel which is

throwing the cirduit out of balance - causing an unbalanced current

flow on the GFCI

I still can't see how an unbalanced anything at the panel
is going to trip a GFCI outlet. The GFCI outlet is only
comparing the current leaving it and anything downstream it
also protects, with the current coming back on the neutral.
Regardless of what is happening back at the panel and the
oven, those currents at the outlet would be the same.

For this to be happening, you would think there would have
to be something either plugged into the outlet or connected
downstream of the GFCI outlet that is somehow linked back
to the oven.


I can come up with some plausible scenarios, but they all involve
multiple faults... :/

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 7/11/2013 10:34 AM, wrote:

I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.
With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at breaker box the GFI
tests normal (two right lights). When I leave the tester in the outlet and
turn the breaker 'on' for the stove circuit the two right lights on tester
go dim and the left most light flickers. When stove is unplugged and I
repeat there is no difference at tester when circuit is in 'on' or 'off'
position at breaker.

This is a problem that has steadily worsened with the GFI tripping. I am vexed.

If there is not a solid ground for the GFCI the H-G and N-G test lights
could change brightness. The brightness of the H-N light should not
change. (The 3-lite testers don't give a reliable test for whether there
is a good ground back to the panel.) I don't see a reason the test
lights should change brightness when the stove is turned on if the
wiring is correct. And a properly wired GFCI will work if there is no
ground.

Measuring the H-G, N-G and H-N voltages with the tester plugged in and
stove turned on would be interesting.

"bud--" wrote in message
b.com...
On 7/11/2013 10:34 AM, wrote:

I swapped out the GFI and I still test 'bad' with outlet tester.
With the stove plugged in and circuit in 'off' position at breaker box
the GFI
tests normal (two right lights).

What do you have to indicate "normal" with the breaker in the OFF position
???
Are the tester lights ON or OFF -
and if ON - how is that possible with the breaker OFF ???