I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC



Miami, when you get all the work done on your house, I hope you have an
open house for all on ahr newsgroup. I'll bring potato salad )

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC


The difference is the amp rating. Look here to see the difference
http://www.lni.wa.gov/WISHA/Rules/co...96-800-280.htm

I don't know of any adapters. Perhaps you can change to a 50A cordset but
the 30A is the standard, it seems. Can you use the old cord? Or just
replace the receptacle.

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC



check this out

http://www.frentzandsons.com/Hardwar...nfiguratio.htm

I'm guessing your old recep is a NEMA 10-30R, yes?

and your new plug is a NEMA 14-30P?

that's perfectly normal, you have two options:

1) replace the cord on your new dryer with your old cord (if still
serviceable) or a new 3-wire cord. Bond the case of your dryer to
neutral (there should be instructions in the manual that came with it to
do this.)

2) run a new wire from your breaker box to your dryer receptacle,
instead of using 10/2 you will have to use 10/3. Replace receptacle
with a new NEMA 14-30R. Do NOT bond case to neutral.

used to be that 120/240V appliances did not require a separate chassis
ground, they could be bonded to neutral. Code changed a few years back
and now do require a separate ground wire.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Hipupchuck wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight
slot, the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug
matches that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or
some adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC

Just flatten out that "L" on an anvil with a hammer or vise. Plug
manufacturers are always trying to frig with the public.

Yea, what a dumb idea to have receptacle configurations that disallow
wrong connections.

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC


Your current equipment is wrong. The "L" shaped prong means it is 30 Amp.

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches
that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

My range plug is three straight blades, but they are all oriented
"north-south". The three straight blades on my dryer plug is not all in the
same direction. The top middle one is oriented "north-south" but the other
two are angled.

The new plug has the same two bottom blades, just the top middle one is "L"
shaped.

MC

wrote in message
m...
MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches
that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC

Miami, when you get all the work done on your house, I hope you have an
open house for all on ahr newsgroup. I'll bring potato salad )

I am serving magaritas and tequilas and everyone must wear hawaiian shirts.

MiamiCuse wrote:
"RBM" wrote in message
....
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

My range plug is three straight blades, but they are all oriented
"north-south". The three straight blades on my dryer plug is not all in the
same direction. The top middle one is oriented "north-south" but the other
two are angled.

The new plug has the same two bottom blades, just the top middle one is "L"
shaped.
....
It's not whether it's range or dryer, it's the amp-rating of the plug
that's the difference.

The straight-blade is 50A, the one w/ the L is 30A.

Assuming the new implies new manufactured not just new to you and so the
30A plug is OEM and the existing wall circuit is wired properly for 30A
or greater, then you can correctly do either--change the outlet or
change the plug.

The requirement is that the plug be rated for at least the amperage of
the appliance/load and the circuit must, of course, be capable of that
load. 50A would have been a little unusual for a normal dryer hookup
but using the higher-rated plug is ok.

If the old dryer plug is of the detachable kind rather than molded in,
you could just swap it to the new dryer; if they're both molded probably
just as well to change out the wall plug to match the new dryer.

--

"MiamiCuse" wrote

I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches that.

20 or 50 Amp?

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

I believe that is 30 Amp? Thats why the connectors are different. To keep
you safe.

I know in my case, any 'heavy 220 type gear' gets on only the proper
circuits. I had an electrician change out a few things not long ago and put
in GFCI's in the kitchen and screened porch.

Think of it this way, if the gear is meant to run at one amperage and you
feed it higher or lower, you could be creating a fire hazard.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote

The difference is the amp rating. Look here to see the difference
http://www.lni.wa.gov/WISHA/Rules/co...96-800-280.htm

Ah! Should have read ahead. Yes, 30 amp. If it's a 20amp circuit, with a
30amp adapter of some sort, I think the hazard would mostly be the machine
may not run as well but there might be other hazards I am not aware of. If
it's a 50 and you out a 30 device, I think thats supposed to be dangerous.

I'm sure one of the more electrically inclined will know! Afterall, I'm
known for that not being my 'high spot' in repairs ;-)

MiamiCuse wrote:
wrote in message
m...
MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches
that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC
Miami, when you get all the work done on your house, I hope you have an
open house for all on ahr newsgroup. I'll bring potato salad )

I am serving magaritas and tequilas and everyone must wear hawaiian shirts.



And a sombrero?

TDD

dpb wrote:
....
... 50A would have been a little unusual for a normal dryer hookup
but using the higher-rated plug is ok.

I intended to add "ok" in the sense the plug is conservative for the
circuit if it were actually 30A wiring; it's probably a Code violation
as it would allow an appliance of over the circuit rating to be plugged
in w/o somebody knowing.

So, on retrospect when I actually write the above, I'd recommend the new
30A plug rather than the swap out and munging up a preformed plug
(assuming it came w/ it molded).

--

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight
slot, the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug
matches that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

My range plug is three straight blades, but they are all oriented
"north-south". The three straight blades on my dryer plug is not all in
the same direction. The top middle one is oriented "north-south" but the
other two are angled.

The new plug has the same two bottom blades, just the top middle one is
"L" shaped.

MC

I'm not sure what they installed on your new range, but your old dryer plug
and outlet with three straight blades, two at angles and one straight, is a
standard three wire 50 amp range configuration. The same configuration with
the right angle center connection is a standard three wire 30 amp dryer plug

"dpb" wrote in message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:
"RBM" wrote in message
...
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

My range plug is three straight blades, but they are all oriented
"north-south". The three straight blades on my dryer plug is not all in
the same direction. The top middle one is oriented "north-south" but the
other two are angled.

The new plug has the same two bottom blades, just the top middle one is
"L" shaped.
...
It's not whether it's range or dryer, it's the amp-rating of the plug
that's the difference.

The straight-blade is 50A, the one w/ the L is 30A.

Assuming the new implies new manufactured not just new to you and so the
30A plug is OEM and the existing wall circuit is wired properly for 30A or
greater, then you can correctly do either--change the outlet or change the
plug.

The requirement is that the plug be rated for at least the amperage of the
appliance/load and the circuit must, of course, be capable of that load.
50A would have been a little unusual for a normal dryer hookup but using
the higher-rated plug is ok.

If the old dryer plug is of the detachable kind rather than molded in, you
could just swap it to the new dryer; if they're both molded probably just
as well to change out the wall plug to match the new dryer.

--

Thanks.

My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I have a
new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I figure I
will move that here but the plug does not work.

I did not check to see if the outlet is working, in other words, it may be
broken so that's why the old dryer does not start. I am trying to figure
out how I can determine if that outlet has current. The only thing that
plugs into it is my dryer and it won't start. I am not sure which circuit
it is (some of mine are not labeled).

I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v) but I
plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not sure the
pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not, and I
don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and the new dryer
not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with breaker and that
would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's 30amp.

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"dpb" wrote in message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:
"RBM" wrote in message
...
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

My range plug is three straight blades, but they are all oriented
"north-south". The three straight blades on my dryer plug is not all in
the same direction. The top middle one is oriented "north-south" but
the other two are angled.

The new plug has the same two bottom blades, just the top middle one is
"L" shaped.
...
It's not whether it's range or dryer, it's the amp-rating of the plug
that's the difference.

The straight-blade is 50A, the one w/ the L is 30A.

Assuming the new implies new manufactured not just new to you and so the
30A plug is OEM and the existing wall circuit is wired properly for 30A
or greater, then you can correctly do either--change the outlet or change
the plug.

The requirement is that the plug be rated for at least the amperage of
the appliance/load and the circuit must, of course, be capable of that
load. 50A would have been a little unusual for a normal dryer hookup but
using the higher-rated plug is ok.

If the old dryer plug is of the detachable kind rather than molded in,
you could just swap it to the new dryer; if they're both molded probably
just as well to change out the wall plug to match the new dryer.

--

Thanks.

My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I have
a new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I figure I
will move that here but the plug does not work.

I did not check to see if the outlet is working, in other words, it may be
broken so that's why the old dryer does not start. I am trying to figure
out how I can determine if that outlet has current. The only thing that
plugs into it is my dryer and it won't start. I am not sure which circuit
it is (some of mine are not labeled).

I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v) but
I plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not sure the
pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not, and I
don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and the new
dryer not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with breaker and
that would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's 30amp.

It sounds like you may not have 240 volt at the outlet. Use your tester
between the ground/neutral and each of the hot legs. You should get 120
volts. If you don't get 120 volts from each hot leg to ground, you won't get
any reading when you test between the two hot legs. This would likely be the
reason that the existing dryer isn't working

MiamiCuse wrote:
....
My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I have a
new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I figure I
will move that here but the plug does not work.

....
I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v) but I
plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not sure the
pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not, and I
don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and the new dryer
not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with breaker and that
would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's 30amp.

As RBM says, assuming this multimeter is an actual meter, there's no
fundamental difference between checking an outlet regardless of the
voltage--set the meter on the proper AC Volt scale and probe between the
two hots (the angled) and between each of them and the ground--there
should be 120 to ground and 240 between. If your not sure you're
reaching the plug contacts w/ the test leads, plug the old dryer in
leaving just a smidge of the blades exposed and probe there. Be careful
to not drop lead across and short, etc., etc., ... Or, pull the rear
cover and test at the point where the pigtail is attached is pretty simple.

This new info raises the question of "was it working" and when did it
quit working and what were symptoms, etc.?

As for finding out which circuit, I'd start by going to the breaker box
and look at each 240V breaker to see if any happened to be tripped--if
it was working but now isn't, possibly tripped a breaker (say if a
heater element happened to short).

Obviously there will be a range and perhaps water heater, etc., you
should be able to find them by trial and error and isolate which one
must be the dryer circuit.

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:
...
My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I
have a new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I
figure I will move that here but the plug does not work.

...
I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v) but
I plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not sure
the pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not, and
I don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and the new
dryer not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with breaker
and that would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's 30amp.

As RBM says, assuming this multimeter is an actual meter, there's no
fundamental difference between checking an outlet regardless of the
voltage--set the meter on the proper AC Volt scale and probe between the
two hots (the angled) and between each of them and the ground--there
should be 120 to ground and 240 between. If your not sure you're reaching
the plug contacts w/ the test leads, plug the old dryer in leaving just a
smidge of the blades exposed and probe there. Be careful to not drop lead
across and short, etc., etc., ... Or, pull the rear cover and test at
the point where the pigtail is attached is pretty simple.

This new info raises the question of "was it working" and when did it quit
working and what were symptoms, etc.?

As for finding out which circuit, I'd start by going to the breaker box
and look at each 240V breaker to see if any happened to be tripped--if it
was working but now isn't, possibly tripped a breaker (say if a heater
element happened to short).

Obviously there will be a range and perhaps water heater, etc., you should
be able to find them by trial and error and isolate which one must be the
dryer circuit.


MC, dpb makes an important point, the probes on my Fluke tester won't quite
reach the contacts of range and dryer outlets, so don't rely on them. Test
as he describes

MiamiCuse wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:
"RBM" wrote in message
...
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

My range plug is three straight blades, but they are all oriented
"north-south". The three straight blades on my dryer plug is not all in
the same direction. The top middle one is oriented "north-south" but the
other two are angled.

The new plug has the same two bottom blades, just the top middle one is
"L" shaped.
...
It's not whether it's range or dryer, it's the amp-rating of the plug
that's the difference.

The straight-blade is 50A, the one w/ the L is 30A.

Assuming the new implies new manufactured not just new to you and so the
30A plug is OEM and the existing wall circuit is wired properly for 30A or
greater, then you can correctly do either--change the outlet or change the
plug.

The requirement is that the plug be rated for at least the amperage of the
appliance/load and the circuit must, of course, be capable of that load.
50A would have been a little unusual for a normal dryer hookup but using
the higher-rated plug is ok.

If the old dryer plug is of the detachable kind rather than molded in, you
could just swap it to the new dryer; if they're both molded probably just
as well to change out the wall plug to match the new dryer.

--

Thanks.

My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I have a
new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I figure I
will move that here but the plug does not work.

I did not check to see if the outlet is working, in other words, it may be
broken so that's why the old dryer does not start. I am trying to figure
out how I can determine if that outlet has current. The only thing that
plugs into it is my dryer and it won't start. I am not sure which circuit
it is (some of mine are not labeled).

I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v) but I
plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not sure the
pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not, and I
don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and the new dryer
not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with breaker and that
would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's 30amp.



got a light bulb socket, some pieces of wire, and a 240V light bulb?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"dpb" wrote in message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:
...
My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I
have a new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I
figure I will move that here but the plug does not work.

...
I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v)
but I plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not
sure the pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not, and
I don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and the new
dryer not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with breaker
and that would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's 30amp.

As RBM says, assuming this multimeter is an actual meter, there's no
fundamental difference between checking an outlet regardless of the
voltage--set the meter on the proper AC Volt scale and probe between the
two hots (the angled) and between each of them and the ground--there
should be 120 to ground and 240 between. If your not sure you're
reaching the plug contacts w/ the test leads, plug the old dryer in
leaving just a smidge of the blades exposed and probe there. Be careful
to not drop lead across and short, etc., etc., ... Or, pull the rear
cover and test at the point where the pigtail is attached is pretty
simple.

This new info raises the question of "was it working" and when did it
quit working and what were symptoms, etc.?

As for finding out which circuit, I'd start by going to the breaker box
and look at each 240V breaker to see if any happened to be tripped--if it
was working but now isn't, possibly tripped a breaker (say if a heater
element happened to short).

Obviously there will be a range and perhaps water heater, etc., you
should be able to find them by trial and error and isolate which one must
be the dryer circuit.


MC, dpb makes an important point, the probes on my Fluke tester won't
quite reach the contacts of range and dryer outlets, so don't rely on
them. Test as he describes


OK I just did a complete trial and error on my entire house circuit, and
base on process of elimination, I have determined that my dryer circuit is a
double breaker, each labeled "30" taking up slots 7 and 9. The range is
also a double breaker labeled "50", and the central AC unit takes up 4 slots
labeled "60". There is a window unit in the garage also taking up two slots
labeled "30", water heater two slots "30", all the rest are 20 and 15
circuits.

So if it's using two 30A breakers, it's 30A right?

I then used my multimeter to test a normal 120V outlet, put the two pins in
and it says 124.

Knowing my range works, I pulled out my range, put the two pins into the
slot and reading is zero. But as RBM says it may be not long enough to
engage so I plugged the range back in but did not push the plug all the way
in, and still left a little of the prone exposed, the range is on. I
touched the multimeter pins on two of the three legs exposed metal, and
reading is 0.

Both plugs are molded so I don't think I can change the plugs between old
and new dryers.

Is there something I can buy at say a HD that can test to make sure the
outlet works? I know they sell those 120V test plugs that lights up are
there ones for 240V?

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"dpb" wrote in message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:
...
My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I
have a new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I
figure I will move that here but the plug does not work.

...
I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v)
but I plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not
sure the pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not,
and I don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and
the new dryer not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with
breaker and that would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's
30amp.

As RBM says, assuming this multimeter is an actual meter, there's no
fundamental difference between checking an outlet regardless of the
voltage--set the meter on the proper AC Volt scale and probe between the
two hots (the angled) and between each of them and the ground--there
should be 120 to ground and 240 between. If your not sure you're
reaching the plug contacts w/ the test leads, plug the old dryer in
leaving just a smidge of the blades exposed and probe there. Be careful
to not drop lead across and short, etc., etc., ... Or, pull the rear
cover and test at the point where the pigtail is attached is pretty
simple.

This new info raises the question of "was it working" and when did it
quit working and what were symptoms, etc.?

As for finding out which circuit, I'd start by going to the breaker box
and look at each 240V breaker to see if any happened to be tripped--if
it was working but now isn't, possibly tripped a breaker (say if a
heater element happened to short).

Obviously there will be a range and perhaps water heater, etc., you
should be able to find them by trial and error and isolate which one
must be the dryer circuit.


MC, dpb makes an important point, the probes on my Fluke tester won't
quite reach the contacts of range and dryer outlets, so don't rely on
them. Test as he describes


OK I just did a complete trial and error on my entire house circuit, and
base on process of elimination, I have determined that my dryer circuit is
a double breaker, each labeled "30" taking up slots 7 and 9. The range is
also a double breaker labeled "50", and the central AC unit takes up 4
slots labeled "60". There is a window unit in the garage also taking up
two slots labeled "30", water heater two slots "30", all the rest are 20
and 15 circuits.

So if it's using two 30A breakers, it's 30A right?

I then used my multimeter to test a normal 120V outlet, put the two pins
in and it says 124.

Knowing my range works, I pulled out my range, put the two pins into the
slot and reading is zero. But as RBM says it may be not long enough to
engage so I plugged the range back in but did not push the plug all the
way in, and still left a little of the prone exposed, the range is on. I
touched the multimeter pins on two of the three legs exposed metal, and
reading is 0.

Both plugs are molded so I don't think I can change the plugs between old
and new dryers.

Is there something I can buy at say a HD that can test to make sure the
outlet works? I know they sell those 120V test plugs that lights up are
there ones for 240V?


OK I just repeated the test on the dryer. I plugged the dryer plug in 3/4
way and left the metal blade about 1/4" exposed. I turned the multimeter on
and set to test AC voltage.

Let's label the bottom legs "L" and "R" for left and right legs, the the top
center one "T".

If I touch L and T, reading is 123, if I touch T and R, reading is 123, if I
touch L and R, reading is 245.

So it means the outlet and circuit is working, right?

"cshenk" wrote in message
...
"MiamiCuse" wrote

I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches
that.

20 or 50 Amp?

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

I believe that is 30 Amp? Thats why the connectors are different. To
keep you safe.

I know in my case, any 'heavy 220 type gear' gets on only the proper
circuits. I had an electrician change out a few things not long ago and
put in GFCI's in the kitchen and screened porch.

Think of it this way, if the gear is meant to run at one amperage and you
feed it higher or lower, you could be creating a fire hazard.

It's 30A, at least the circuit breaker is a double breaker both labeled
"30". So it looks like the new dryer has the right amp, just that the
outlet socket is not matching?

MiamiCuse wrote:
wrote in message
m...
MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches
that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC
Miami, when you get all the work done on your house, I hope you have an
open house for all on ahr newsgroup. I'll bring potato salad )

I am serving magaritas and tequilas and everyone must wear hawaiian shirts.


Wrong ocean, and the locals will laugh at you. If you are in Carib, you
need island shirts. Different colors, sometimes just plain white.

--
aem sends...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message

If I touch L and T, reading is 123, if I touch T and R, reading is 123, if
I touch L and R, reading is 245.

So it means the outlet and circuit is working, right?


Yes

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message

Both plugs are molded so I don't think I can change the plugs between old
and new dryers.


One end is molded. The other end is usually connected in a wiring box and
is easily removed.

In article , dpb wrote:
dpb wrote:
....
... 50A would have been a little unusual for a normal dryer hookup
but using the higher-rated plug is ok.

I intended to add "ok" in the sense the plug is conservative for the
circuit if it were actually 30A wiring; it's probably a Code violation
as it would allow an appliance of over the circuit rating to be plugged
in w/o somebody knowing.

That isn't "probably" a Code violation. That's *definitely* a Code violation.

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"dpb" wrote in message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:
...
My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I
have a new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I
figure I will move that here but the plug does not work.

...
I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v)
but I plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not
sure the pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not,
and I don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and
the new dryer not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with
breaker and that would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's
30amp.

As RBM says, assuming this multimeter is an actual meter, there's no
fundamental difference between checking an outlet regardless of the
voltage--set the meter on the proper AC Volt scale and probe between
the two hots (the angled) and between each of them and the
ground--there should be 120 to ground and 240 between. If your not
sure you're reaching the plug contacts w/ the test leads, plug the old
dryer in leaving just a smidge of the blades exposed and probe there.
Be careful to not drop lead across and short, etc., etc., ... Or,
pull the rear cover and test at the point where the pigtail is attached
is pretty simple.

This new info raises the question of "was it working" and when did it
quit working and what were symptoms, etc.?

As for finding out which circuit, I'd start by going to the breaker box
and look at each 240V breaker to see if any happened to be tripped--if
it was working but now isn't, possibly tripped a breaker (say if a
heater element happened to short).

Obviously there will be a range and perhaps water heater, etc., you
should be able to find them by trial and error and isolate which one
must be the dryer circuit.


MC, dpb makes an important point, the probes on my Fluke tester won't
quite reach the contacts of range and dryer outlets, so don't rely on
them. Test as he describes


OK I just did a complete trial and error on my entire house circuit, and
base on process of elimination, I have determined that my dryer circuit
is a double breaker, each labeled "30" taking up slots 7 and 9. The
range is also a double breaker labeled "50", and the central AC unit
takes up 4 slots labeled "60". There is a window unit in the garage also
taking up two slots labeled "30", water heater two slots "30", all the
rest are 20 and 15 circuits.

So if it's using two 30A breakers, it's 30A right?

I then used my multimeter to test a normal 120V outlet, put the two pins
in and it says 124.

Knowing my range works, I pulled out my range, put the two pins into the
slot and reading is zero. But as RBM says it may be not long enough to
engage so I plugged the range back in but did not push the plug all the
way in, and still left a little of the prone exposed, the range is on. I
touched the multimeter pins on two of the three legs exposed metal, and
reading is 0.

Both plugs are molded so I don't think I can change the plugs between old
and new dryers.

Is there something I can buy at say a HD that can test to make sure the
outlet works? I know they sell those 120V test plugs that lights up are
there ones for 240V?


OK I just repeated the test on the dryer. I plugged the dryer plug in 3/4
way and left the metal blade about 1/4" exposed. I turned the multimeter
on and set to test AC voltage.

Let's label the bottom legs "L" and "R" for left and right legs, the the
top center one "T".

If I touch L and T, reading is 123, if I touch T and R, reading is 123, if
I touch L and R, reading is 245.

So it means the outlet and circuit is working, right?

OK, so you've determined that the outlet is on a 2/30 amp breaker and it's
live. Yes, this is a 30 amp circuit. This probably means that the old dryer
is not functioning. If this is for a temporary arrangement, you can replace
the entire cord set from the old dryer and install it on the new one. Or
just replace the incorrect range outlet with a proper 3 wire dryer outlet,
and you're done.

MiamiCuse wrote:
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
"RBM" wrote in message
...
"dpb" wrote in message ...
MiamiCuse wrote:
...
My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I
have a new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I
figure I will move that here but the plug does not work.

...
I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v)
but I plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not
sure the pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not,
and I don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and
the new dryer not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with
breaker and that would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's
30amp.
As RBM says, assuming this multimeter is an actual meter, there's no
fundamental difference between checking an outlet regardless of the
voltage--set the meter on the proper AC Volt scale and probe between the
two hots (the angled) and between each of them and the ground--there
should be 120 to ground and 240 between. If your not sure you're
reaching the plug contacts w/ the test leads, plug the old dryer in
leaving just a smidge of the blades exposed and probe there. Be careful
to not drop lead across and short, etc., etc., ... Or, pull the rear
cover and test at the point where the pigtail is attached is pretty
simple.

This new info raises the question of "was it working" and when did it
quit working and what were symptoms, etc.?

As for finding out which circuit, I'd start by going to the breaker box
and look at each 240V breaker to see if any happened to be tripped--if
it was working but now isn't, possibly tripped a breaker (say if a
heater element happened to short).

Obviously there will be a range and perhaps water heater, etc., you
should be able to find them by trial and error and isolate which one
must be the dryer circuit.

MC, dpb makes an important point, the probes on my Fluke tester won't
quite reach the contacts of range and dryer outlets, so don't rely on
them. Test as he describes

OK I just did a complete trial and error on my entire house circuit, and
base on process of elimination, I have determined that my dryer circuit is
a double breaker, each labeled "30" taking up slots 7 and 9. The range is
also a double breaker labeled "50", and the central AC unit takes up 4
slots labeled "60". There is a window unit in the garage also taking up
two slots labeled "30", water heater two slots "30", all the rest are 20
and 15 circuits.

So if it's using two 30A breakers, it's 30A right?

I then used my multimeter to test a normal 120V outlet, put the two pins
in and it says 124.

Knowing my range works, I pulled out my range, put the two pins into the
slot and reading is zero. But as RBM says it may be not long enough to
engage so I plugged the range back in but did not push the plug all the
way in, and still left a little of the prone exposed, the range is on. I
touched the multimeter pins on two of the three legs exposed metal, and
reading is 0.

Both plugs are molded so I don't think I can change the plugs between old
and new dryers.

Is there something I can buy at say a HD that can test to make sure the
outlet works? I know they sell those 120V test plugs that lights up are
there ones for 240V?


OK I just repeated the test on the dryer. I plugged the dryer plug in 3/4
way and left the metal blade about 1/4" exposed. I turned the multimeter on
and set to test AC voltage.

Let's label the bottom legs "L" and "R" for left and right legs, the the top
center one "T".

If I touch L and T, reading is 123, if I touch T and R, reading is 123, if I
touch L and R, reading is 245.

So it means the outlet and circuit is working, right?



yup, that's what you should see.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Sun, 07 Jun 2009 08:57:43 -0500, dpb wrote:

MiamiCuse wrote:
"RBM" wrote in message
...
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

My range plug is three straight blades, but they are all oriented
"north-south". The three straight blades on my dryer plug is not all in the
same direction. The top middle one is oriented "north-south" but the other
two are angled.

The new plug has the same two bottom blades, just the top middle one is "L"
shaped.
...
It's not whether it's range or dryer, it's the amp-rating of the plug
that's the difference.

The straight-blade is 50A, the one w/ the L is 30A.

Assuming the new implies new manufactured not just new to you and so the
30A plug is OEM and the existing wall circuit is wired properly for 30A
or greater, then you can correctly do either--change the outlet or
change the plug.

The requirement is that the plug be rated for at least the amperage of
the appliance/load and the circuit must, of course, be capable of that
load. 50A would have been a little unusual for a normal dryer hookup
but using the higher-rated plug is ok.

If the old dryer plug is of the detachable kind rather than molded in,
you could just swap it to the new dryer; if they're both molded probably
just as well to change out the wall plug to match the new dryer.

Yeah, save the old receptacle in case your next dryer after this one
requires that, or in case you sell your house and your next house
requires it, or so you can leave it behind for the next owner, in case
the dryer he brings with him requires the old receptacle.

On Sun, 7 Jun 2009 10:52:15 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:


Thanks.

My older dryer no longer works, and it has the molded outlet plug. I have a
new dryer laying around in the new (being remodeled house) so I figure I
will move that here but the plug does not work.

I did not check to see if the outlet is working, in other words, it may be
broken so that's why the old dryer does not start. I am trying to figure
out how I can determine if that outlet has current.

By taking the probes of a meter and holding only the plastic parts and
sticking them into every combination of two of the holes in the
outlet.

Outlets have voltage, not current unless something is plugged into
them and turned on.

Put your meter on the AC voltage setting, and if your meter doesn't
have autoranging, and most don't, put it on a setting that goes to 240
volts or higher.

You own, iirc a pretty expensive house and you do repairs all the
time. It's time for you to by a volt-ohmmeter. (OH, below I see that
you do.) Often called multimeter. You can get by with a 15 or 20
dollar digital meter from Radio Shack with auto polarity, or from
Harbor Frieght for 4 or 5 dollars. Home Depot has something for 15
dollrs too. Come to think, the Harbor Freight meter only goes up to
200 AC. You won't burn it out with 240 I think, but you won't get a
good reading either.

For this you can use a neon test light, with two leads attached. If
it lights up, it's over 50 volts AC and a dryer receptacle will either
be good or zero, not likely anything in between. Stray voltages as
have been discussd here are not enough to light a neon light.


The only thing that
plugs into it is my dryer and it won't start. I am not sure which circuit
it is (some of mine are not labeled).

Are all your breakers ON. If it's 240 and it is, it will have 2
breakers harnessed together. Or it will be twice as wide as most of
the other breakers, same thign.

I have a multimeter that can check voltage on a regular outlet (120v) but I
plugged that into the dryer outlet and get nothing.but I am not sure the
pins are sticking all the way in correctly.

What scale is your meter on. Has to be over the voltage of the
receptacle. Though if you had a needle meter, yuu could watch the
needle fly over all the way to the right. It probably woudn't break
the meter if it was set on 200 and was actually 220.

Does this possibly broken dryer have a mechanical timer? Does it
move? Can you put your ear to the thing and hear the clock running.

If digital, it's probalby rather new and rather expensive. Is there a
circuit drawn on the back or inside and does it list a fuse.

So I think I need to determine if my dryer outlet is working or not, and I
don't know how to do that with the older dryer not working and the new dryer
not pluggable. If I can test that then I can check with breaker and that
would tell me the amp for that circuit. I think it's 30amp.

Use a neon test light, from radio shack and almost certainly in the
electric tool part of Home Depot. Harbor Freight has a set of three
of them or something, all diffferent, that I bought but haven't used
yet. One has a sharp point for piercing wire insulation.


If the one that's there now is broken and unreparable, rather than
just take the plug you could take the whole cord. Probably easy to
interchange cords.

mm wrote:
On Sun, 07 Jun 2009 08:57:43 -0500, dpb wrote:

MiamiCuse wrote:
"RBM" wrote in message
...
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

My range plug is three straight blades, but they are all oriented
"north-south". The three straight blades on my dryer plug is not all in the
same direction. The top middle one is oriented "north-south" but the other
two are angled.

The new plug has the same two bottom blades, just the top middle one is "L"
shaped.
...
It's not whether it's range or dryer, it's the amp-rating of the plug
that's the difference.

The straight-blade is 50A, the one w/ the L is 30A.

Assuming the new implies new manufactured not just new to you and so the
30A plug is OEM and the existing wall circuit is wired properly for 30A
or greater, then you can correctly do either--change the outlet or
change the plug.

The requirement is that the plug be rated for at least the amperage of
the appliance/load and the circuit must, of course, be capable of that
load. 50A would have been a little unusual for a normal dryer hookup
but using the higher-rated plug is ok.

If the old dryer plug is of the detachable kind rather than molded in,
you could just swap it to the new dryer; if they're both molded probably
just as well to change out the wall plug to match the new dryer.

Yeah, save the old receptacle in case your next dryer after this one
requires that, or in case you sell your house and your next house
requires it, or so you can leave it behind for the next owner, in case
the dryer he brings with him requires the old receptacle.


meh? you can get any cord you want at your local Big Box, just pull the
plate off the back of the dryer and swap away. way easier than changing
the receptacle, only reason I would change the recep is to "make it
right" which would involve running a ground wire and using a current 30A
4-wire recep

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

... If your not sure you're reaching the plug contacts w/ the test leads,
plug the old dryer in
leaving just a smidge of the blades exposed and probe there. Be careful
to not drop lead across and short, etc., etc

Or, pull the rear cover and test at the point where the pigtail is
attached is pretty simple.

Yes, how about just taking the plate off/out of the box and doing the
testing -direct- on the wiring in the wall..
Theres the possibility that one of the screw/terminals is loose or
incorrectly hooked up in there.

On Sun, 07 Jun 2009 08:53:40 -0400, "
wrote:

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC

Miami, when you get all the work done on your house, I hope you have an
open house for all on ahr newsgroup. I'll bring potato salad )

Given the airfare, I think he should provide all the food. We've
already spend more time on his house than I have on mine.

MiamiCuse wrote:
"RBM" wrote in message
...
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have a question on the 220V dryer outlet I have.

The outlet is a three prong outlet. The middle top one is straight slot,
the other two at the bottom are angled. My older dryer plug matches
that.

My new dryer also has a 3 prone plug, but the top prone is a little "L
shaped" prong. Is this unusual does it mean I need a new outlet or some
adaptor?

Thanks in advance,

MC
Your newer dryer plug is a dryer plug. your older one, with the three
straight blades, is an range plug

My range plug is three straight blades, but they are all oriented
"north-south". The three straight blades on my dryer plug is not all in the
same direction. The top middle one is oriented "north-south" but the other
two are angled.

The new plug has the same two bottom blades, just the top middle one is "L"
shaped.

MC




That range plug sounds like a NEMA 6-50 (for welders.)

Bob