I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was
previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer
gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has
to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be
crimped or kinked.

mcp6453 wrote:
I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was
previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer
gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has
to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be
crimped or kinked.

It could mean the exhaust is restricted or it could be overheating and
doing a "safety shut down" or there could be a failing component.

I know that that is not much help, but the point is that the fact that it
is shutting off doesn't specifically mean that the exhaust is restricted.
There are multiple other causes for a dryer to shut off. The fact that it
worked the last time it was in service doesn't mean that something wasn't
ready to fail the next time you used it.

A quick test would be to pull it out from the wall and absolutely ensure
that there is free air flow from the vent. Then run it and see what
happens.

It's also possible that you dislodged some inner lint and have restricted
airflow inside the unit. I clean my gas dryer about once a year, inside and
out. Just did it this morning as a matter of fact. There is always some
inside lint, especially on the fan fins, so I remove the internal ductwork
and vacuum it all out. This morning I also replaced the foam gasket around
the fan/duct hole since the adhesive was failing. I don't need any exhaust
leaks into the basement.

Good luck!

It could be shutting itself off on high limit cuz it's overheating.

It's possible that the duct the dryer is blowing into is clogged with lint.

It could also be that the vent itself is so long and tortuous that you're not getting sufficient air flow through the duct, and the dryer is over heating as a result. Note that for the best air flow you need the shortest straightest and smoothest duct. If your duct is long, has lots of bends in it, and/or is made of vinyl and wire, then the resistance to air flow through the duct can be sufficient to cause the dryer to overheat.

I would disconnect the exhaust duct and put it out an open window if possible and then see if the dryer works OK when it's not trying to blow through that duct. If it works fine then, there's a problem with the duct.

On Sunday, June 23, 2013 7:48:35 PM UTC-5, mcp6453 wrote:
I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be crimped or kinked.

Is the drum turning??You don't say, but assuming it is, then disconnect the exhaust hose right at the dryer and run it empty. You won't get a lot of lint doing that, and you can confirm that there is a good exhaust air flow and that the unit does not shut down. Then connect the exhaust hose at the dryer end and remove it from however it goes thru the wall and repeat the test. Is there good air flow, does the unit shut down, what do you see? If all ok to this point manually try to open the louvers on the vent where it goes thru the wall. Does the vent open with just a slight amount of pressure? If so, connect the exhaust hose to the vent and try again. Go outside and see if the vent louvers are opening when the dryer is on. If so, now add some clothes to the dryer and see what happens. It could be that the dryer drum belt is somehow slipping, the drum may turn under no load, but may be slipping under a clothes load and that is also slowing down the fan.

On Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:48:35 PM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:
I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was

previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer

gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has

to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be

crimped or kinked.

Run it with the hose disconnected. You don't say if it shuts down entirely or just the heating elements stop. Most have safety devices inside but they are often just wired to the heating elements so that the drum keeps going but the heating elements stop getting power. If it continues to shut off with the hose loose then there is probably a wiring diagram taped inside it you can use to troubleshoot further.

On 6/24/2013 8:40 AM, jamesgang wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:48:35 PM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:
I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was

previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer

gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has

to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be

crimped or kinked.

Run it with the hose disconnected. You don't say if it shuts down entirely or just the heating elements stop. Most have safety devices inside but they are often just wired to the heating elements so that the drum keeps going but the heating elements stop getting power. If it continues to shut off with the hose loose then there is probably a wiring diagram taped inside it you can use to troubleshoot further.


I just decided to call my regular appliance repair guy. His charges are really
reasonable, and I can learn from what he finds.

Thanks

On Sunday, June 23, 2013 7:48:35 PM UTC-5, mcp6453 wrote:
I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be crimped or kinked.

How about posting here what your repairman finds so we can all gain a little additional knowledge????

mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/24/2013 8:40 AM, jamesgang wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:48:35 PM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:
I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was

previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer

gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has

to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be

crimped or kinked.

Run it with the hose disconnected. You don't say if it shuts down entirely or just the heating elements stop. Most have safety devices inside but they are often just wired to the heating elements so that the drum keeps going but the heating elements stop getting power. If it continues to shut off with the hose loose then there is probably a wiring diagram taped inside it you can use to troubleshoot further.


I just decided to call my regular appliance repair guy. His charges are really
reasonable, and I can learn from what he finds.

Thanks

Hi,
During the move maybe something got jolted. When I move dryer I always
open it up and clean out well using vacuum and bristle brush, check all
the wires/connections B4 I install it.

After dryer shuts off and cools down does it start normal again? If
that's the case poor venting or shorted heater coil is causing over heat
condition triggering safety switch(sensor)

On 6/24/2013 10:46 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/24/2013 8:40 AM, jamesgang wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:48:35 PM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:
I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was

previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer

gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has

to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be

crimped or kinked.

Run it with the hose disconnected. You don't say if it shuts down entirely
or just the heating elements stop. Most have safety devices inside but they
are often just wired to the heating elements so that the drum keeps going but
the heating elements stop getting power. If it continues to shut off with
the hose loose then there is probably a wiring diagram taped inside it you
can use to troubleshoot further.


I just decided to call my regular appliance repair guy. His charges are really
reasonable, and I can learn from what he finds.

Thanks

Hi,
During the move maybe something got jolted. When I move dryer I always open it
up and clean out well using vacuum and bristle brush, check all the
wires/connections B4 I install it.

After dryer shuts off and cools down does it start normal again? If that's the
case poor venting or shorted heater coil is causing over heat condition
triggering safety switch(sensor)

I will certainly report back what he finds. It is a curiosity to me. I don't
know if it restarts when it cools down since my daughter is the person using it,
but that's my understanding.

On 6/24/2013 10:22 AM, wrote:
On Sunday, June 23, 2013 7:48:35 PM UTC-5, mcp6453 wrote:
I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be crimped or kinked.

How about posting here what your repairman finds so we can all gain a little additional knowledge????


Absolutely.

On Monday, June 24, 2013 10:01:39 AM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/24/2013 8:40 AM, jamesgang wrote:

On Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:48:35 PM UTC-4, mcp6453 wrote:

I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was



previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer



gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer has



to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to be



crimped or kinked.



Run it with the hose disconnected. You don't say if it shuts down entirely or just the heating elements stop. Most have safety devices inside but they are often just wired to the heating elements so that the drum keeps going but the heating elements stop getting power. If it continues to shut off with the hose loose then there is probably a wiring diagram taped inside it you can use to troubleshoot further.





I just decided to call my regular appliance repair guy. His charges are really

reasonable, and I can learn from what he finds.



Thanks

Odds are that whatever he finds will be so strange that it'll never happen again so the knowledge will be useless in the future. ;-)

Either that or it'll be so simple that you'll kick yourself for not finding it yourself.

But, hey, you'll have a working dryer in any case, and your daughter will appreciate the help.

(My wife and daughter brought home a used car for my daughter a few weeks ago. Now dad spends his weekends replacing rotors, pads and belts. Next on the list is one of the power window motors. I don't which is worse - the grieve I would have gotten if I had told them not to buy the car or the work I have to put into it so I'll be comfortable when she drives it. Actually, I really do know which one is worse.)

Please tell us what you learn, I'm curious.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"mcp6453" wrote in message ...

I just decided to call my regular appliance repair
guy. His charges are really
reasonable, and I can learn from what he finds.

Thanks

Since you're thread drifting, I'll restart helpful suggestions.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message ...

(My wife and daughter brought home a used car for my daughter a few weeks ago. Now dad spends his weekends replacing rotors, pads and belts. Next on the list is one of the power window motors. I don't which is worse - the grieve I would have gotten if I had told them not to buy the car or the work I have to put into it so I'll be comfortable when she drives it. Actually, I really do know which one is worse.)

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...

I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was
previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer
gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer
has
to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to
be
crimped or kinked.

If after it shuts off can it be restarted or must wait a while for it to
cool? If required to cool it could be the overload mounted on the motor
and will trip if the motor is loaded with lint that prevents air flow
through the motor. As the motor cools the overload will reset. In the 35
years as an appliance repair person I have seen this many times. Blow lint
out of motor with air (if you have a compressor) or use a tank vacuum and
connect to the exhaust end. WW

On Monday, June 24, 2013 10:02:43 PM UTC-4, WW wrote:
"mcp6453" wrote in message

...



I just installed my daughter's electric dryer in her apartment. When it was

previously removed from service, it worked fine. However, now when the dryer

gets hot, it shuts off. Does that mean the exhaust is restricted? The dryer

has

to be pushed against the wall. Visually, the exhaust pipe does not appear to

be

crimped or kinked.



If after it shuts off can it be restarted or must wait a while for it to

cool? If required to cool it could be the overload mounted on the motor

and will trip if the motor is loaded with lint that prevents air flow

through the motor. As the motor cools the overload will reset. In the 35

years as an appliance repair person I have seen this many times. Blow lint

out of motor with air (if you have a compressor) or use a tank vacuum and

connect to the exhaust end. WW

"or use a tank vacuum and connect to the exhaust end."

Alas, many of the newer tank (canister) vacs no longer provide the ability to connect a hose to the exhaust.

I recently replaced a 1980's vintage Mighty Mite with a 201x version. The old one had a rear filter door that opened, exposing an exhaust outlet that would accept the hose. The new one does not. However, I can replace the back end with an adaptor that will hold a hepa filter. (* see my comment below)

I just checked a couple of canister vacs from other manufacturers and they do not have exhaust ports either.

* Comment: It appears to me that the manufacturers are more concerned with providing higher filtration of the exhaust vs. including an exhaust port that can be used with the hose. Hepa filters and micro-fiber bags are all the rage these days. My unscientific evaluation results are that the higher the filtration properties of the bag, the sooner the vac loses suction power.

On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 11:19:09 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Next on the list is one of the power window motors. I

Derby,

My window regulator was slipping. The window would slip but the motor
worked fine.

The repair was to replace the "gear plugs" (nylon?) and add some white
lithium grease.

Auto parts store will have them for a dollar or so - IF that happens
to be the problem. The plugs had disintegrated.. They use friction I
think for the operation.

Looks like:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/233770/fullsize/img_0020.jpg

On Tuesday, June 25, 2013 1:22:29 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jun 2013 11:19:09 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:



Next on the list is one of the power window motors. I

Derby,

My window regulator was slipping. The window would slip but the motor
worked fine.

The repair was to replace the "gear plugs" (nylon?) and add some white
lithium grease.

Auto parts store will have them for a dollar or so - IF that happens
to be the problem. The plugs had disintegrated.. They use friction I
think for the operation.

Looks like:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/233770/fullsize/img_0020.jpg

Thanks, but my window issue is intermittant. At first I didn't think the window worked at all because when I tried it right after she brought the car home the only sound was the click of the switch from both the driver's door and the rear door. No sound from the motor. When the window didn't go down, I didn't even mention it to my daughter, since stuck up is OK, stuck down is bad. I'd get to it when I got to it.

Then the other day she comes home and says "Dad, there a problem with the back driver's side window. It won't go up." I asked "It won't go up or it won't go down?" Imagine my surprise when she said that one of her friends put it down and now it won't go up with either switch. Of course, thunderstorms were forcasted for that afternoon. I went out to the car, expecting the worse. I started started and tried the driver's door switch. Up went the window, as smooth as silk.

I checked the wiring diagram and it showed that the driver's door switch wires went through the rear door switch and then to the motor, so I pulled the connector off of the rear door switch, disabling the window altogether. Like I said, stuck up is OK, stuck down is bad.

I'll be searching for a loose wire or a bad ground I guess. Since neither switch will operate the window when it doesn't want to work, I assume the problem is after the rear door switch.

Thanks anyway.

On 6/24/2013 7:39 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Please tell us what you learn, I'm curious.

Apparently there was an obstruction that cleared itself in the vent. The repair
guy checked the installation, and it was fine (although I'm still not sure the
exhaust hose was not kinked.) He reinstalled the dryer, ran it for a couple of
cycles, and it didn't overheat.

He did find a problem with the agitator in the washer. He fixed it in just a few
minutes. Now the washer and dryer are working correctly.

Thanks for the input and help.

mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/24/2013 7:39 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Please tell us what you learn, I'm curious.

Apparently there was an obstruction that cleared itself in the vent. The repair
guy checked the installation, and it was fine (although I'm still not sure the
exhaust hose was not kinked.) He reinstalled the dryer, ran it for a couple of
cycles, and it didn't overheat.

He did find a problem with the agitator in the washer. He fixed it in just a few
minutes. Now the washer and dryer are working correctly.

Thanks for the input and help.

I've had dryer overheat yet not shutoff. It was still a case of one of the
thermostats being bad.

Greg