My tub deck faucet (two handle - cartridge type) is leaking. I can get the cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water to hot and cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem. Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex slot).

Is there anything to try to get this thing off short of drilling it out? If these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the chase and take the necessary measures, but if there's any likely alternative, it would be preferable than having to get a new handle (I'd probably need to get two if I want matching handles, because this type is no longer made - it was discontinued when I bought it about 10 years ago.

If I had stripped the thing while trying to loosen it, I'd probably give up right away, but it was already stripped, so, I'm guessing it got stripped when being tightened. I swear that was done by the plumber who installed it and not me. Well, maybe it was me, but if so, I have conveniently erased that memory. In any case, this means I haven't really been able to apply any torque to the thing at all. it's possible (though probably not likely) that with a little bit of torque, it could loosen up and then I could just get a new set screw instead of two new handles. These are pretty fancy, so near-matching replacements would probably cost a pretty penny. I don't think the wife would go for the small vice-grips-as-relpacement solution.

I thought of putting some super-glue on the end of an allen wrench, sticking it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go. But if there are any better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else first.

Thanks for any suggestions.

-J

J writes:

My tub deck faucet (two handle - cartridge type) is leaking. I can
get the cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water
to hot and cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem.
Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex
slot).

Is there anything to try to get this thing off short of drilling it
out? If these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the
chase and take the necessary measures, but if there's any likely
alternative, it would be preferable than having to get a new handle
(I'd probably need to get two if I want matching handles, because this
type is no longer made - it was discontinued when I bought it about 10
years ago.

If I had stripped the thing while trying to loosen it, I'd probably
give up right away, but it was already stripped, so, I'm guessing it
got stripped when being tightened. I swear that was done by the
plumber who installed it and not me. Well, maybe it was me, but if
so, I have conveniently erased that memory. In any case, this means I
haven't really been able to apply any torque to the thing at all.
it's possible (though probably not likely) that with a little bit of
torque, it could loosen up and then I could just get a new set screw
instead of two new handles. These are pretty fancy, so near-matching
replacements would probably cost a pretty penny. I don't think the
wife would go for the small vice-grips-as-relpacement solution.

I thought of putting some super-glue on the end of an allen wrench,
sticking it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go. But if
there are any better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else
first.

A few years ago I had the same problem with my kitchen faucet.

I bought a set of screw extractors and finally got the set
screw out.

--
Dan Espen

On 6/20/13 8:52 AM, J wrote:
My tub deck faucet (two handle - cartridge type) is leaking. I can get the cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water to hot and cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem. Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex slot).

Is there anything to try to get this thing off short of drilling it out? If these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the chase and take the necessary measures, but if there's any likely alternative, it would be preferable than having to get a new handle (I'd probably need to get two if I want matching handles, because this type is no longer made - it was discontinued when I bought it about 10 years ago.

If I had stripped the thing while trying to loosen it, I'd probably give up right away, but it was already stripped, so, I'm guessing it got stripped when being tightened. I swear that was done by the plumber who installed it and not me. Well, maybe it was me, but if so, I have conveniently erased that memory. In any case, this means I haven't really been able to apply any torque to the thing at all. it's possible (though probably not likely) that with a little bit of torque, it could loosen up and then I could just get a new set screw instead of two new handles. These are pretty fancy, so near-matching replacements would probably cost a pretty penny. I don't think the wife would go for the small vice-grips-as-relpacement solution.

I thought of putting some super-glue on the end of an allen wrench, sticking it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go. But if there are any better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else first.

Thanks for any suggestions.

-J


Take a look at this tool. It should work for you.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/BOA-Grabit...actor/15162110

I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn between fully closed and fully open.

So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the thing out.

-J

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 06:15:13 -0700 (PDT), J wrote:

I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn between fully closed and fully open.

So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the thing out.

Replacement handles are cheap. [usually] Get your Dremel out and
some fiber disks, and cut that handle out of your way.

Don't have a Dremel? All the better. . .
Go buy a Dremel and some fiber disks- play with your cool new tool.

Jim

On 6/20/2013 8:15 AM, J wrote:
I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of
the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of
clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn
between fully closed and fully open.

So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to
think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the thing out.

Right angle drill attachment--but it'll be tough drilling as the allen
screw is likely hardened.

Can try modifying a standard extractor to just the length need to try to
get purchase on outside; generally one small enough will have too long a
taper and will bottom out before can actually grab the sides.

If not terribly corroded, getting "creative" may help...this guy's
problem wasn't an allen screw, but perhaps can spark an idea or two..,

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674458

--

On 6/20/2013 8:15 AM, J wrote:
I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of
the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of
clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn
between fully closed and fully open.

So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to
think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the
thing out.

-J


J, the screw extractors work well and you can get a right angle chuck
for your drill from Harbor freight. We had to buy one for a job we were
on that had screws in a very hard to get at place. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...le+drill+chuck

http://tinyurl.com/powwgo7

TDD

On Thursday, June 20, 2013 8:52:37 AM UTC-4, J wrote:
My tub deck faucet (two handle - cartridge type) is leaking. I can get the cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water to hot and cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem. Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex slot).



Is there anything to try to get this thing off short of drilling it out? If these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the chase and take the necessary measures, but if there's any likely alternative, it would be preferable than having to get a new handle (I'd probably need to get two if I want matching handles, because this type is no longer made - it was discontinued when I bought it about 10 years ago.

If it's really stripped, then drilling it out is the
only option. But that shouldn't be hard. I'd soak it
in penetrating oil if you haven't already. Then drill
it out. Many times it will come out just doing that.
If necessary, then use a screw extractor.







If I had stripped the thing while trying to loosen it, I'd probably give up right away, but it was already stripped, so, I'm guessing it got stripped when being tightened. I swear that was done by the plumber who installed it and not me.

In a recent thread it was pointed out as a suggested
technique to deal with a loose screw to bugger up the
threads to tighten it up and that it was a plumber's trick.
Sounded like a bad idea to me. Maybe it was done to yours...




Well, maybe it was me, but if so, I have conveniently erased that memory. In any case, this means I haven't really been able to apply any torque to the thing at all. it's possible (though probably not likely) that with a little bit of torque, it could loosen up and then I could just get a new set screw instead of two new handles. These are pretty fancy, so near-matching replacements would probably cost a pretty penny. I don't think the wife would go for the small vice-grips-as-relpacement solution.



I thought of putting some super-glue on the end of an allen wrench, sticking it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go. But if there are any better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else first.



Thanks for any suggestions.



-J

On Thursday, June 20, 2013 9:15:13 AM UTC-4, J wrote:
I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn between fully closed and fully open.

It nust be a really big handle, if 7" of clearance isn't
enough? And 7" isn't enough for a drill?









So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the thing out.



-J

The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/20/2013 8:15 AM, J wrote:
I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of
the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of
clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn
between fully closed and fully open.

So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to
think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the
thing out.

-J


J, the screw extractors work well and you can get a right angle chuck
for your drill from Harbor freight. We had to buy one for a job we were
on that had screws in a very hard to get at place. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...le+drill+chuck

http://tinyurl.com/powwgo7

TDD
Hmm,
If I were you, I'd just take the whole fixture out and replace it with
new one. Is there a guarantee screw extracter or Dremel cutting disc
will work in a restricted space? How much time to spend? Time is money
you know. I always look for simple easy way.

On 2013-06-20, Tony Hwang wrote:
TDD
Hmm,
If I were you, I'd just take the whole fixture out and replace it with
new one. Is there a guarantee screw extracter or Dremel cutting disc
will work in a restricted space? How much time to spend? Time is money
you know. I always look for simple easy way.

Plus, the faucet stem is prolly maimed, also. Probably cheaper in the
long run to replace entire fixture.

nb

wrote in message
...
If it's really stripped, then drilling it out is the
only option. But that shouldn't be hard. I'd soak it
in penetrating oil if you haven't already. Then drill
it out. Many times it will come out just doing that.
If necessary, then use a screw extractor.

There are 'left handed' drill bits. They are made so you run the drill in
reverse. After a good day or two of soaking in the penetrating oil, a left
handed bit may just grab the screw and back it out. If not, then the screw
extractor can be used.

J wrote:
My tub deck faucet (two handle - cartridge type) is leaking. I can
get the cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water
to hot and cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem.
Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex
slot).
.....,

I thought of putting some super-glue on the end of an allen wrench,
sticking it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go.

Seems like the allen wrench and super glue idea would be worth a try. Of
course, try to keep the super glue away from the threads (but you already
knew that).

Also, you said there is not much room for one of those screw removal tools.
But, since it is a set screw which requires an allen wrench. maybe you don't
need much room? By that, I mean that the stripped allen wrench hole already
created a hole for the screw removal tool to go into -- meaning you may not
need a drill to attach to the tool. Maybe just putting the tool in and
using pliers etc. to turn it will allow it to grab the sides of the allen
screw hole and back the set screw out.

Or, could you try jamming a small flat screw driver in that allen screw hole
and try to get that to grab and back out the set screw?

Let us know how it works out.

On 6/20/2013 9:59 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 6/20/2013 8:15 AM, J wrote:
I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of
the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of
clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn
between fully closed and fully open.

So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to
think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the
thing out.

-J


J, the screw extractors work well and you can get a right angle chuck
for your drill from Harbor freight. We had to buy one for a job we were
on that had screws in a very hard to get at place. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...le+drill+chuck


http://tinyurl.com/powwgo7

TDD
Hmm,
If I were you, I'd just take the whole fixture out and replace it with
new one. Is there a guarantee screw extracter or Dremel cutting disc
will work in a restricted space? How much time to spend? Time is money
you know. I always look for simple easy way.


I loaned the guys my Dremel tool this week so they could cut channels in
the crown molding on a job so they could put wire mold
on the wall. My Dremel tool is the best thing I ever bought and so
versatile. I've used it to cut out all sorts of seized screws and bolts.
I once had to get a broken stud out of the head on a 15kw Onan genset
and the Dremel tool was the only tool that I could use to get it out.
The OP may have to use a Dremel tool to get the defective parts out for
replacement. ^_^

TDD

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 05:52:37 -0700 (PDT), J wrote:


I thought of putting some super-glue on the end of an allen wrench, sticking it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go. But if there are any better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else first.

I've never gotten anything to stick with superglue**, not even my
fingers. I'd use 5 minute epoxee. Make sure it's dry first.


**I almost think it's one elaborate scam.

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 06:15:13 -0700 (PDT), J wrote:

I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn between fully closed and fully open.

So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the thing out.

-J

For diilling it out, there is the right angle attachment to the drill,
though that is probably longer than 7"

And there is the flexible shaft, though htat too might be more than
7", and

finally there is the thing at Harbor Freight, which uses special hex
shank drills, also sold at HF, which is definitely under 7". The
think is a flexible shaft, but it ends not with a chuck with jaws, but
just a socket that takes the hex-shaft drill bits. IIRC, it looks a
bit like a dentist's drill. The end, not counting the drill, is only
about an inch or inch and a half, and the drill adds 3 inches or so,
so it will fit in our space I think. The handle of the end is 45^ up
so that will take up a bit of space. I'm not sure they drill has to
go in exactly straight.

But try the expoxee first.

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 08:33:20 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 6/20/2013 8:15 AM, J wrote:
I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of
the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of
clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn
between fully closed and fully open.

So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to
think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the
thing out.

-J


J, the screw extractors work well and you can get a right angle chuck
for your drill from Harbor freight. We had to buy one for a job we were
on that had screws in a very hard to get at place. ^_^

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...le+drill+chuck

http://tinyurl.com/powwgo7

TDD

For the record, none of these is the angle thing I talk about last in
my ot her post, but I searched HF for drill and none of the 62 hits
were what I meant. Maybe they don't sell it anymore.

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 07:32:01 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Thursday, June 20, 2013 8:52:37 AM UTC-4, J wrote:
My tub deck faucet (two handle - cartridge type) is leaking. I can get the cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water to hot and cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem. Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex slot).



Is there anything to try to get this thing off short of drilling it out? If these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the chase and take the necessary measures, but if there's any likely alternative, it would be preferable than having to get a new handle (I'd probably need to get two if I want matching handles, because this type is no longer made - it was discontinued when I bought it about 10 years ago.

If it's really stripped, then drilling it out is the
only option. But that shouldn't be hard. I'd soak it
in penetrating oil if you haven't already. Then drill
it out. Many times it will come out just doing that.
If necessary, then use a screw extractor.


If you drill it out with a left handed drill bit, available in a set
of 4 at Harbor Freight, often the left-handed turning during the
drilling will unscrew the screw at the same time. use a bit smaller
than the hole so you don't mess up the threads any more than they are.

On 2013-06-20, micky wrote:

of 4 at Harbor Freight.....

Somehow I don't see HF selling real HSS lefty bits. If they're not HSS,
yer wasting yer time/$$$.

nb

On 20 Jun 2013 18:39:41 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2013-06-20, micky wrote:

of 4 at Harbor Freight.....

Somehow I don't see HF selling real HSS lefty bits. If they're not HSS,
yer wasting yer time/$$$.

You may not see it, but I gather you don't own any. I do and they
work well. They probably say HSS but I'm not going to go look,
because regardless of what they say, I've drllled out several screws,
all of which had holes in them after I drilled a while, and most of
which unscrewed before I was done drilling in them. IOW, they work
well. If they work only once, it's worth the money for the whole
set.

The only other left-handed option is a major drill maker, whose name
escapes me, who sells bits one at at a time and a collection of 4 is a
lot more than a set at HF.

They don't seem to sell a set of 4 anymore, just a set of 13, for $10.
More money but 9 more drills Well worth it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piec...set-95146.html

from 1/16 to 1/4 by 64ths, in a metal case.

Needs a reversible drill of course.

nb

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 07:32:01 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I'd soak it
in penetrating oil if you haven't already.

+1

I'd also use a nail or set punch to cause some vibration in the set
screw treads (few taps with a small hammer). If the screw is frozen
with corrosion, this works very well.

One of the problems are people who tighten allen screws till they go click click click. At which point they are ruined and will likely never come out

I ran into one of those today a shaft in a tube held in place with allens neither of which would move....

managed to move the shaft enough to get the roller out, and had a spare roller and shaft with me

Saving me a over 2 hour round trip drive .

I service heated roll laminators for a living....

On 2013-06-20, micky wrote:

You may not see it, but I gather you don't own any. I do and they
work well. They probably say HSS but I'm not going to go look,

But, you'll post a link and not read it? Yeah, they ARE HSS. Read
yer own link, dolt. And no, I don't own any, living 150 mi from the
hearest HF. Fortunately, I know how to read.

nb

On 20 Jun 2013 21:57:46 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2013-06-20, micky wrote:

You may not see it, but I gather you don't own any. I do and they
work well. They probably say HSS but I'm not going to go look,

But, you'll post a link and not read it?

I wasn't going to go look for the drills and read what it says on
them. Later I decided to look for and post the link.

Yeah, they ARE HSS. Read
yer own link, dolt. And no, I don't own any, living 150 mi from the
hearest HF. Fortunately, I know how to read.

nb

J:

You should be aware that in most cases, faucet companies will use the same cartridges in their faucets for decades, and only the handles will come and go as plumbing fashions change. So, if the company is still in business, there's any excellent chance that any faucets they make now with similar handles will fit your faucet because they're still probably using the same cartridge.

Also, you should download and snoop through IKissler's faucet parts catalogue. Kissler is a company in New York that specializes in parts for obsolete faucets. They simply purchase those parts from the casting and chrome plating companies that made them for the original faucet manufacturer.

I installed Crane two handle tub & shower faucets when I renovated the 21 bathrooms in my building. Crane discontinued their two handle tub & shower faucet in 1994, and the escutcheon plates that went on around the cartridges before the faucet knobs had disappeared from stock within a few years after that. But I can still buy those escutcheon plates, and any other part I need for them from Kissler because Kissler still buys those parts from the Malaysia company that originally made them for Crane. In fact, the escutcheon plates I buy from Kissler now still have the original Crane name on them even though Crane hasn't ordered those parts for about two decades now.

Kissler is a wholesaler with a $250 minimum order, but they supply hardware stores throughout the United States, and their customer service department should be able to tell you who they ship to regularily in your area, and then it would just be a matter of ordering the faucet handles (presuming Kissler has them) and waiting for that store's next order from Kissler to be delivered.

Kissler | Plumbing Repair Parts

Get on Kissler's web site and click on the "Repair Parts" link in the black bar near the top of the site. When the new page loads, click on thier "Handles and Inserts" catalogue to download it. There'll be a lot of obsolete faucet handles in that catalogue, so you'll have to recognize your handle from the pictures and drawings.

notbob wrote in
:

On 2013-06-20, micky wrote:

of 4 at Harbor Freight.....

Somehow I don't see HF selling real HSS lefty bits. If they're not HSS,
yer wasting yer time/$$$.

nb


Somehow I don't see HF selling real HSS lefty bits.

Well, good for 25 turns anyway :-)

http://www.sockitout.com/about.html