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#41
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On 4/5/2017 7:28 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 4/4/17 10:55 PM, wrote: I'm going to have an A/C central heat & air conditioner unit install it's going to be a 3 ton unit inside & outside both being replaced my sq feet in my house is like 1100 square ft .they priced me a total of $ 6,903.00 that includes checking and sealing and replacing any ducting that is damage. Is this a good price? For only 1100 square feet, you could probably get by with a couple of window AC units and space heaters :=) My upper floor is just over 1,000 sq. ft. I have a 12,000 btu at one end, 6000 Btu at the other end The lower level is the same but has a utility area that I don't care to cool and an 8,000 Btu handles it just fine. I really question the need for 3 ton of cooling for the OP. |
#42
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On 04/05/2017 08:36 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
I really question the need for 3 ton of cooling for the OP. Yah, if I needed 3 ton of cooling for 1100 square foot, I'd be looking for better insulation. |
#43
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On 4/6/17 5:01 AM, Jax wrote:
On 04/05/2017 08:36 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: I really question the need for 3 ton of cooling for the OP. Yah, if I needed 3 ton of cooling for 1100 square foot, I'd be looking for better insulation. If there's attic access, no problem for ceiling insulation. But without it, how could you improve- short of tearing the place apart? And what about the walls in either scenario? -- I never met anyone who didn't have a very smart child. What happens to these children, you wonder, when they reach adulthood? - Fran Lebowitz |
#44
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On Thu, 6 Apr 2017 05:01:52 -0400, Jax
wrote: On 04/05/2017 08:36 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: I really question the need for 3 ton of cooling for the OP. Yah, if I needed 3 ton of cooling for 1100 square foot, I'd be looking for better insulation. or closing the windows - or mabee installing a roof !!!! |
#45
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On Thu, 6 Apr 2017 09:56:54 -0400, Wade Garrett
wrote: On 4/6/17 5:01 AM, Jax wrote: On 04/05/2017 08:36 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: I really question the need for 3 ton of cooling for the OP. Yah, if I needed 3 ton of cooling for 1100 square foot, I'd be looking for better insulation. If there's attic access, no problem for ceiling insulation. But without it, how could you improve- short of tearing the place apart? And what about the walls in either scenario? Do what all the insulation contractors up here do - cut a few vent holes in the roof- blow in the insulation, and install roof vents. Walls can be a bit more trouble - but depending on the type and condition of the siding it is common to remove the siding, cover with 2" Styrofoam SM or equivalent, and stucco or re-side. |
#46
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On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 at 5:11:07 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I just ran a basic whole house manual J on my 2 story house with finished basement in Waterloo. I was conservative - going for the low Ding ding ding! We have a winner. Without a manual J you are just guessing. Install companies always estimate too high, and deliver oversized equipment, which is the worst thing in a humid climate. |
#47
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On Friday, April 7, 2017 at 8:55:23 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 at 5:11:07 PM UTC-4, wrote: I just ran a basic whole house manual J on my 2 story house with finished basement in Waterloo. I was conservative - going for the low Ding ding ding! We have a winner. Without a manual J you are just guessing. Install companies always estimate too high, and deliver oversized equipment, which is the worst thing in a humid climate. If you've done a manual J, and you have a number for what your load is supposed to be, theoretically you could test it. You could keep track of the run time of your equipment and the degree days, and see if you got it right. I have never seen this done, in either residential or commercial. That is strange in commercial where you have DDC control and can track actual flows and heat transfer - maybe design engineers don't want to know. |
#48
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On Fri, 7 Apr 2017 08:44:25 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote: On Friday, April 7, 2017 at 8:55:23 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote: On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 at 5:11:07 PM UTC-4, wrote: I just ran a basic whole house manual J on my 2 story house with finished basement in Waterloo. I was conservative - going for the low Ding ding ding! We have a winner. Without a manual J you are just guessing. Install companies always estimate too high, and deliver oversized equipment, which is the worst thing in a humid climate. If you've done a manual J, and you have a number for what your load is supposed to be, theoretically you could test it. You could keep track of the run time of your equipment and the degree days, and see if you got it right. I have never seen this done, in either residential or commercial. That is strange in commercial where you have DDC control and can track actual flows and heat transfer - maybe design engineers don't want to know. I can monitor my run-time - and do on occaision as a sanity check. My conclusion is my 35000BTU furnace (on low fire) is slightly oversized 90% of the winter, and my AC is at least 50% oversized - just about what the Manual J predicts. I had not run the manual J untill the other day - and I knew both were oversized when I installed them. The furnace, as I noted previosly, was the smallest residential furnace readilly available when I had it installed, and the AC was a free unit I installed to replace a 35+ year old unit that was still working. The free unit was only a couple years old when a neighbour changed out both furnace and AC for some unknown reason.. I scrapped mine instead of his. Mine was getting "a bit long in the tooth" and I figured it would need replacing soon anyway. |
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