Hi All

Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is good idea or not? what do you think please?

Thanks a lot
Ps: the first picture shows the space between the floor and the baseboard and the second pictures shows the floor after removing the baseboard.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5

leza wang writes:

Hi All

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5
....
Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group
and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second
picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is
good idea or not? what do you think please?

Put in new base board. Use a wider board to cover the exposed part
or paint it first.

Can't imagine why you'd want to use caulk
except to fill nail holes or gaps on the new baseboard.

--
Dan Espen

On Jun 14, 8:16*pm, Dan Espen wrote:
leza wang writes:
Hi All

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5
...
Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group
and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second
picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is
good idea or not? what do you think please?

Put in new base board. *Use a wider board to cover the exposed part
or paint it first.

Or just re-install the existing baseboard lower, but that
would require that the wall be painted. If it needs painting
anyway, then it could be an option. Otherwise, as suggested
get a wider baseboard. I can't understand how the baseboard
was sitting up in the air to begin with?





Can't imagine why you'd want to use caulk
except to fill nail holes or gaps on the new baseboard.

--
Dan Espen

Agree.

Dan Espen wrote:
leza wang writes:

Hi All

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5
...
Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the
group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the
second picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if
that is good idea or not? what do you think please?

Put in new base board. Use a wider board to cover the exposed part
or paint it first.

Replying for Leza...

Or put the baseboard back where it was and use a shoe along the front edge
to hide the gap.

A "shoe" is just a thin piece of molding. In your case I would think
smething 1/4 - 3/8 thick and 3/4 - 1 1/4 wide would be about right. You
want it thin/narrow enough so that you can bend it down as needed to conform
to any floor uneveness and to the baseboard. One nails them to the
baseboard, NOT to the floor.

The downside to that is that the shoe needs to be finished. The color need
not match the baseboard color, it could be some other color in the room. It
could also be stained to a color similar to the floor. If you decide to use
one, finish it before you install it, touch up afterward.

Your floor looks great, GOOD JOB!

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Fri, 14 Jun 2013 20:16:31 -0400, Dan Espen
wrote:

leza wang writes:

Hi All

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5
...
Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group
and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second
picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is
good idea or not? what do you think please?

Put in new base board. Use a wider board to cover the exposed part
or paint it first.

Can't imagine why you'd want to use caulk
except to fill nail holes or gaps on the new baseboard.
Simply add a "quater round" or "base shoe" molding set on the floor
and brad-nailed to the base board.

On Jun 14, 7:52*pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Dan Espen wrote:
leza wang writes:

Hi All

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5
...
Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the
group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the
second picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if
that is good idea or not? what do you think please?

Put in new base board. *Use a wider board to cover the exposed part
or paint it first.

Replying for Leza...

Or put the baseboard back where it was and use a shoe along the front edge
to hide the gap.

A "shoe" is just a thin piece of molding. *In your case I would think
smething 1/4 - 3/8 thick and 3/4 - 1 1/4 wide would be about right. *You
want it thin/narrow enough so that you can bend it down as needed to conform
to any floor uneveness and to the baseboard. *One nails them to the
baseboard, NOT to the floor.

The downside to that is that the shoe needs to be finished. *The color need
not match the baseboard color, it could be some other color in the room. *It
could also be stained to a color similar to the floor. *If you decide to use
one, finish it before you install it, touch up afterward.

Your floor looks great, GOOD JOB!

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? *Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out...http://www.floridaloghouse.net- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agreed, the new floor looks great. You are doing a fine job and
should be very proud of yourself.

The space between the old original floor and the baseboard looks as
though the baseboard was installed after carpeting had been placed
over the original floor. I would put the baseboard back exactly where
it came from and then use quarter-round to finish off the floor/wall
junction. Prepainting the quarter round will make life much easier.
You are very impressive in what you are undertaking in fixing up your
dwelling,and hopefully can pass on what you are learning to others in
the future on this and orther websites.

On Jun 14, 9:12*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 14 Jun 2013 20:16:31 -0400, Dan Espen
wrote:





leza wang writes:

Hi All

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5
...
Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group
and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second
picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is
good idea or not? what do you think please?

Put in new base board. *Use a wider board to cover the exposed part
or paint it first.

Can't imagine why you'd want to use caulk
except to fill nail holes or gaps on the new baseboard.

*Simply add a "quater round" or "base shoe" molding set on the floor
and brad-nailed to the base board.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, I agree, that's the best idea. And maybe that's why there is a
gap to
begin with? There was one there before
Otherwise how could you add the new flooring and have a gap?

"dadiOH" writes:

Dan Espen wrote:
leza wang writes:

Hi All

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5
...
Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the
group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the
second picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if
that is good idea or not? what do you think please?

Put in new base board. Use a wider board to cover the exposed part
or paint it first.

Replying for Leza...

Or put the baseboard back where it was and use a shoe along the front edge
to hide the gap.

A "shoe" is just a thin piece of molding. In your case I would think
smething 1/4 - 3/8 thick and 3/4 - 1 1/4 wide would be about right. You
want it thin/narrow enough so that you can bend it down as needed to conform
to any floor uneveness and to the baseboard. One nails them to the
baseboard, NOT to the floor.

The downside to that is that the shoe needs to be finished. The color need
not match the baseboard color, it could be some other color in the room. It
could also be stained to a color similar to the floor. If you decide to use
one, finish it before you install it, touch up afterward.

Most people call that "shoe" quarter round.

I found half inch easy to work with.

As far as finishing, I recently replaced all the baseboard and quarter
round in our living/dining room. I could not resist the synthetic
stuff at the lumber place. You buy it white, you nail it on, fill the
nail holes and you are done.

Other posters mention reusing the old base board.
Sure, if it's intact and you want to save money go for it.
I liked putting in brand new. This stuff isn't that expensive.

--
Dan Espen

"leza wang" wrote in message ...
Hi All

Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is good idea or not? what do you think please?

Thanks a lot
Ps: the first picture shows the space between the floor and the baseboard and the second pictures shows the floor after removing the baseboard.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5


Hi cousin Leza. How's Long doing?

Shorty

On Fri, 14 Jun 2013 20:52:09 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:


Replying for Leza...

Or put the baseboard back where it was and use a shoe along the front edge
to hide the gap.

A "shoe" is just a thin piece of molding. In your case I would think
smething 1/4 - 3/8 thick and 3/4 - 1 1/4 wide would be about right. You
want it thin/narrow enough so that you can bend it down as needed to conform
to any floor uneveness and to the baseboard. One nails them to the
baseboard, NOT to the floor.

The downside to that is that the shoe needs to be finished. The color need
not match the baseboard color, it could be some other color in the room. It
could also be stained to a color similar to the floor. If you decide to use
one, finish it before you install it, touch up afterward.

Your floor looks great, GOOD JOB!

Shoe gives a lot of flexibility, and you shouldn't worry about
"conventions" if it looks good, which it always does if
stained/painted right. When I had my floors refinished I replaced the
painted baseboards and show with varnished oak - after the floors were
refinished. So there was a varnish line on the floor under where the
old shoe had been. The new shoe was about 1/2 x 3/4. Normally I
would attach that with the 1/2 toward the floor, but the ugly varnish
line was exposed doing that, so I flipped it with the 3/4 on the floor
and that covered the varnish line. First thought I was screwed, but
after seeing how it looked I liked it. Dresses the wall/floor line
nicely. Might only be an issue if you want to get items right close
to the wall, but that doesn't apply for me.
There's no reason not to dress the wall/floor interface however you
like it. Best to keep the shoe off the floor with a spacer as you
nail it to the baseboard. Too tight to the floor can cause buckling
over time as walls/floors shift a bit.
Think 1/8" is about right, or 3/16" if you want to play it safe.
I just laid it on the floor because I don't want a gap, so pick your
poison. Shoe can easily be redone anyway.

leza wang wrote:
Hi All

Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the
group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second
picture) and I can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is
good idea or not? what do you think please?

Thanks a lot
Ps: the first picture shows the space between the floor and the
baseboard and the second pictures shows the floor after removing the
baseboard.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5

The new floor that you are doing looks good.

I am not exactly sure what you are asking regarding the baseboard.

You wrote..., "I took the baseboard out and I can easily caulk the end. I am
not sure if that is good idea or not?"

If you mean eliminating the baseboard altogether and just caulking where the
new floor meets the wall, -- that's one option, but it tends to not look
very good. Plus, you would need to patch and repaint where the old
baseboard along the wall.

It would be better to either put the old baseboard back up (if it is in good
shape) or add new baseboard. Others here have suggested some possibilities
along those lines. If whatever you do involves having to repaint at least
along the bottom part of the wall in the area of the baseboard, you could
try going to Home Depot with a same of the wall color and see if the can
color-match it. They sell sample color-matched paint in a small jar for
about $3.00 if you want to test the color to see if it really matches.

Or, as others have said, maybe you can put up new baseboard that is high
enough to go from the new floor up and cover the whole area that the old
baseboard covered. That would eliminate having to patch or repaint the wall
at the bottom.

Here is one example of a type of inexpensive baseboard that may be high
enough to cover the old baseboard area:
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/prim...4-3-4-h/920707 .

It is cheap stuff -- fiberboard -- but it may be good enough for what you
want. You can also look and see whatever else they may have and how high up
it comes above the floor.

TomR wrote:
leza wang wrote:
Hi All

Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the
group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second
picture) and I can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is
good idea or not? what do you think please?

Thanks a lot
Ps: the first picture shows the space between the floor and the
baseboard and the second pictures shows the floor after removing the
baseboard.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5

The new floor that you are doing looks good.

I am not exactly sure what you are asking regarding the baseboard.

You wrote..., "I took the baseboard out and I can easily caulk the
end. I am not sure if that is good idea or not?"

If you mean eliminating the baseboard altogether and just caulking
where the new floor meets the wall, -- that's one option, but it tends to
not
look very good. Plus, you would need to patch and repaint where the old
baseboard along the wall.

It would be better to either put the old baseboard back up (if it is
in good shape) or add new baseboard. Others here have suggested some
possibilities along those lines. If whatever you do involves having to
repaint at
least along the bottom part of the wall in the area of the baseboard, you
could try going to Home Depot with a same of the wall color and see if the
can color-match it. They sell sample color-matched paint in a small jar
for about $3.00 if you want to test the color to see if it really matches.

Or, as others have said, maybe you can put up new baseboard that is
high enough to go from the new floor up and cover the whole area that the
old baseboard covered. That would eliminate having to patch or repaint
the wall at the bottom.

Here is one example of a type of inexpensive baseboard that may be
high enough to cover the old baseboard area:
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/prim...4-3-4-h/920707
.
It is cheap stuff -- fiberboard -- but it may be good enough for what
you want. You can also look and see whatever else they may have and how
high up it comes above the floor.

Oops, I meant to write,

"...you could try going to Home Depot with a *SAMPLE* of the wall color..."

On 6/14/2013 8:04 PM, leza wang wrote:
Hi All

Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is good idea or not? what do you think please?

Thanks a lot
Ps: the first picture shows the space between the floor and the baseboard and the second pictures shows the floor after removing the baseboard.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5


I like caulk along baseboard for two reasons: hides the gap and prevents
spills or pipe leaks from damaging innards of the wall or peeling paint
from baseboard. I would use either paintable caulk(and paint to match
the baseboard) or a colored caulk color of flooring. If the gap is EVEN
along the wall, then painting the color of bb won't make a wavy line.
If UNEVEN, then the gap will match flooring closely and follow straight
line along bottom of baseboard.

My parents' new home had clear silicone along all of the baseboards, but
it was shiny so it "showed" along tile floors. If caulking along tile,
I used masking tape to keep caulk from oozing into the grout lines. We
has a hose burst in laundry room (first floor, slab), which fortunately
happened while we were at home....caulking kept water from flowing under
walls into our carpeted bedrooms. I like caulking along kit. and bath
cabinet bases and inside sink cabinets...bound to be leaks someday and
might prevent damage to particle board cabinets, which are pretty ruined
if the get wet.

leza wang wrote:
Hi All

Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the
group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second
picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is
good idea or not? what do you think please?

Thanks a lot
Ps: the first picture shows the space between the floor and the
baseboard and the second pictures shows the floor after removing the
baseboard.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5

The new flooring is looking good.

My guess is that you already finished putting it down and you are now
figuring out the caulking/baseboard question.

There is one aspect of the job that I am not completely sure about. It has
to do with whether it would be better to leave a small gap around the
perimeter of the room -- maybe 1/4-inch between the end of the flooring and
the wall.

I would have to research the Allure manufacturer's installation instructions
to know for sure if that is recommended or not. I thought I saw somewhere
that the Allure TrafficMaster Vinyl Flooring product that you are using
doesn't expand and contract (because it does not absorb moisture), so maybe
no gap is needed. But, maybe it could expand/contract a little due to
temperature changes.

My point is that if a small gap is recommended, and if you haven't put any
baseboard back down along the perimeter, it may be possible to trim off a
1/4-inch along the perimeter with a sharp utility knife. I honestly don't
know if this is needed or recommended with this product, but I thought that
I should mention it just in case.

TomR wrote:
leza wang wrote:
Hi All

Thanks for all your help, I am installing Allure Traffic master
vinyl. The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the
group and baseboard. I took the baseboard out (you can see the second
picture) and i can easily caulk the end). I am not sure if that is
good idea or not? what do you think please?

Thanks a lot
Ps: the first picture shows the space between the floor and the
baseboard and the second pictures shows the floor after removing the
baseboard.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=91cjd4&s=5

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=apbgid&s=5

The new flooring is looking good.

My guess is that you already finished putting it down and you are now
figuring out the caulking/baseboard question.

There is one aspect of the job that I am not completely sure about. It has
to do with whether it would be better to leave a small gap
around the perimeter of the room -- maybe 1/4-inch between the end of
the flooring and the wall.

I would have to research the Allure manufacturer's installation
instructions to know for sure if that is recommended or not. I
thought I saw somewhere that the Allure TrafficMaster Vinyl Flooring
product that you are using doesn't expand and contract (because it
does not absorb moisture), so maybe no gap is needed. But, maybe it
could expand/contract a little due to temperature changes.

My point is that if a small gap is recommended, and if you haven't
put any baseboard back down along the perimeter, it may be possible
to trim off a 1/4-inch along the perimeter with a sharp utility
knife. I honestly don't know if this is needed or recommended with
this product, but I thought that I should mention it just in case.

I found the installation instructions. I assume they came with the Allure
flooring that you bought. Here's a link to the instructions file:
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...7a22eeeb65.pdf .



The instructions do say to leave a 1/8-inch or less gap on the perimeter:



"2. Installation should start in a corner and

proceed from the wall with the underedge

facing out away from the wall

(Figure 1). Allow a gap of 1/8" or less

(2-3mm) for subfloor movement, which

should be covered by molding. Trim off

the top over-edge facing the corner

wall (Figure 2)."



You may have already done that, but I wanted to pass along the information
just in case..

"leza wang" wrote in message
...

The baseboard is a bit high and leave a space between the group and
baseboard.

Do not use caulk. There are two standard ways of fixing
a space at floor level:
1 Remove the baseboard and replace it flush (with no gap.)
2. Add "quarter-round" i.e. special moulding (sold at lumber
yards, between 3/4 inches and 1.5 inches high) to block the gap.

#2 is easier and neater. You can paint the quarter round before
fastening it in place. Use "finishing nails" with a very small hammer,
and as few nails as possible. Leave the nail heads protruding one
millimetre, and then "set" them flush with a nail set tool. This
avoids denting the wood with misaimed hammer blows.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)