I have hammers and other tools with painted handles which I would like
to refinish.

What might hold up well in the way of an oil finish?

I have used Sea Fin Teak Oil on rocking chair arms, and it is fair, but
the finish gums up and turns blackish with use.

Thanks for your help!

Dwight Gibb

Dwight wrote:

I have hammers and other tools with painted handles which I would like
to refinish.

What might hold up well in the way of an oil finish?

Boiled Linseed oil and terps-- good for metal, wood, fine furniture,
axe handles, oars, . . . . .

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote:

Dwight wrote:


I have hammers and other tools with painted handles which I would like
to refinish.

What might hold up well in the way of an oil finish?


Boiled Linseed oil and terps-- good for metal, wood, fine furniture,
axe handles, oars, . . . . .

Jim
Thank you Jim.

When I was a kid 70 years ago linseed oil and terps was the standard,
and today it still is!

Isnt that great, in this day of galloping technology, when every
company's varnish has to sell its own brand of thinner....

Super duper!

Dwight

Dwight:

I've heard of people using linseed oil on axe handles and stuff, but I've never done it myself, so I can't speak from experience.

If you want a "paint" that will provide both colour and opacity, then I would take a jar half full of boiled linseed oil to any paint store and give them a few dollars to load it up with the colour of your choice on their paint tinting machine. Mix it with a paint mixing stick. (never shake polyurethane because the air bubbles that form in the poly will take forever to rise to the surface of the poly and break. so you won't be able to use the poly for a long time after shaking it) Use a Q-tip dipped in that mixture to see how well your "paint" spreads and hides when applied to a paint mixing stick.

You can ruin a latex paint by adding too much colourant to it, but glycerine (which is the carrier fluid in paint tinting colourants) won't have any affect on an oil based coating other than perhaps making it take longer to dry. It should still dry to a proper film no matter how much colourant you add to the BLO.

I expect that darkening that you experienced with Teak oil is due to the fact that drying oils like linseed oil are the softest coatings you can get so far as "oil based" coatings go, and dirt from your hands gets embedded in the dried oil over time whenever you grip the chair handles to get up from the chair. You should be able to remove that darkness by scrubbing the chair handles with a Magic Eraser to plough the dirt out of the oil's surface and then applying another coat of Teak oil to restore the gloss.

So, if it wuz me, and to avoid that softenss, instead of using a soft coating like linseed oil I'd opt for a wipe-on polyurethane. This is the stuff I use when I'm refinishing a door or spice rack in my building:



...only my can says "Clear Gloss" instead of "Clear Satin" on the front.

Wipe on polyurethanes are very much thinner (less viscous) than normal brushing polyurethanes and so they self-level very much better. (still, I wouldn't shake the stuff) You'll never see any brush strokes in dried wipe on polyurethane, even if you brush it on with a corn broom. It dries to a thinner coat than a regular brush-on polyurethane, so you need to apply more coats to get the same coating thickness as regular brush on polyurethane.

Also, oil based coatings like boiled linseed oil and polyurethane dry through a chemical reaction, and to prevent your brush or wiping rag from drying and hardening up between coats, wrap it in a plastic bag and keep it in your fridge (good) or freezer (better) between coats. It's a good idea to keep the container of wipe on polyurethane you're painting from in the fridge or freezer between coats too. Wipe on polyurethane doesn't get appreciably more viscous when it's cold, so you can just brush it on normally, just like it was warm.

Really cold temperatures won't harm any oil based coating.

And, of course, just like any oil based coating, you can tint a jar of wipe on polyurethane in the paint tinting machine to the colour of your choice. The glycerine added with the colourant won't do any harm to wipe on polyurethane no matter how much colourant you put in (except perhaps make it take longer to dry).

PS: You don't need to know the rest...

The reason they use glycerine as the carrier fluid in paint tinting colourants is because, being an alcohol, it's soluble in both water and mineral spirits. Consequently, your local neighborhood hardware store can tint both latex and oil based paints (which is all of the paint it sells) with the same colourants in the same tinting machine.

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 18:54:23 -0700, Dwight
wrote:

Jim Elbrecht wrote:

Dwight wrote:


I have hammers and other tools with painted handles which I would like
to refinish.

What might hold up well in the way of an oil finish?


Boiled Linseed oil and terps-- good for metal, wood, fine furniture,
axe handles, oars, . . . . .

Jim
Thank you Jim.

When I was a kid 70 years ago linseed oil and terps was the standard,
and today it still is!

It is for this old fart, anyway.g Not quite as old as you-- but
a similar vintage.

Youngsters don't own any wooden-handled hammers. [and I've got to
admit that most of mine are fiberglass, too]


Isnt that great, in this day of galloping technology, when every
company's varnish has to sell its own brand of thinner....

I like to stick with what works unless you can make a compelling
argument for the 'brand new stuff'.

I just started looking at boatbuilding [stitch and glue & skin on
frame human powered stuff] sites again for the first time in about a
decade--- seems like I missed out on the gorilla glue era. [Tempted
by the PL premium construction glue in lieu of epoxy, though]

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote:

On Tue, 25 Sep 2012 18:54:23 -0700, Dwight
wrote:


Jim Elbrecht wrote:


Dwight wrote:



I have hammers and other tools with painted handles which I would like
to refinish.

What might hold up well in the way of an oil finish?


Boiled Linseed oil and terps-- good for metal, wood, fine furniture,
axe handles, oars, . . . . .

Jim

Thank you Jim.

When I was a kid 70 years ago linseed oil and terps was the standard,
and today it still is!


It is for this old fart, anyway.g Not quite as old as you-- but
a similar vintage.

Youngsters don't own any wooden-handled hammers. [and I've got to
admit that most of mine are fiberglass, too]


Isnt that great, in this day of galloping technology, when every
company's varnish has to sell its own brand of thinner....


I like to stick with what works unless you can make a compelling
argument for the 'brand new stuff'.

I just started looking at boatbuilding [stitch and glue & skin on
frame human powered stuff] sites again for the first time in about a
decade--- seems like I missed out on the gorilla glue era. [Tempted
by the PL premium construction glue in lieu of epoxy, though]

Jim
Thanks again. I like to keep wood around me - just cleaned up some
homemade kayak padles which are finished with Sea Fin. I did build our
Odyssey kayak by Pygmy. They are a really good house, and I have paddled
with the owner, but I must say there was no carpentry to it - just
learning to work effectively with epoxy - which is fun in itself.

Best

On Sep 25, 6:54*pm, Dwight wrote:
Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Dwight wrote:

I have hammers and other tools with painted handles which I would like
to refinish.

What might hold up well in the way of an oil finish?

Boiled Linseed oil and terps-- *good for metal, wood, fine furniture,
axe handles, oars, *. . . . .

Jim

Thank you Jim.

When I was a kid 70 years ago linseed oil and terps was the standard,
and today it still is!

Isnt that great, in this day of galloping technology, when every
company's varnish has to sell its own brand of thinner....

Super duper!

Dwight

I second the Boiled Linseed Oil and turp finish.

However, I accidently discoverred the absolutely BEST finish is simply
human oil on the wood. Makes it look even better than BL Oil
but much harder to get enough of.

Op woensdag 26 september 2012 00:27:18 UTC+2 schreef Dwight het volgende:
I have hammers and other tools with painted handles which I would like

to refinish.



What might hold up well in the way of an oil finish?



I have used Sea Fin Teak Oil on rocking chair arms, and it is fair, but

the finish gums up and turns blackish with use.



Thanks for your help!



Dwight Gibb

Haaaaaay everybody

"Dwight" wrote in message
...
I have hammers and other tools with painted handles which I would like to
refinish.

What might hold up well in the way of an oil finish?

I have used Sea Fin Teak Oil on rocking chair arms, and it is fair, but
the finish gums up and turns blackish with use.

Thanks for your help!

Dwight Gibb

Boiled linseed oil. Don't leave the rags laying around, they spontaneously
combust.

Steve

On Sep 25, 6:35*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Dwight wrote:

snip

What might hold up well in the way of an oil finish?

Boiled Linseed oil and terps-- *good for metal, wood, fine furniture,
axe handles, oars, *. . . . .

Tung oil is much better, tougher.

Joe