Utility galvanized metal roofing for barns, sheds, etc. The 5v runs
$15 per 8' sheet whereas the 2.5" corrugated runs about $10. What are
the pros & cons for each type and is it worth the price difference?

The existing metal roofing started rusting at, and spread from, the
nail holes punched thru the metal by the roofing nails. They were the
coated nails with rubber washers made for installing that type
roofing. Is there any way to prevent that when installing the new
roofing? Predrilling maybe?

Red wrote:
Utility galvanized metal roofing for barns, sheds, etc. The 5v runs
$15 per 8' sheet whereas the 2.5" corrugated runs about $10. What are
the pros & cons for each type and is it worth the price difference?

The existing metal roofing started rusting at, and spread from, the
nail holes punched thru the metal by the roofing nails. They were the
coated nails with rubber washers made for installing that type
roofing. Is there any way to prevent that when installing the new
roofing? Predrilling maybe?

I drilled and screwed, and calked.

Greg

On Sep 15, 10:16*pm, Red wrote:
Utility galvanized metal roofing for barns, sheds, etc. *The 5v runs
$15 per 8' sheet whereas the 2.5" corrugated runs about $10. *What are
the pros & cons for each type and is it worth the price difference?

The existing metal roofing started rusting at, and spread from, the
nail holes punched thru the metal by the roofing nails. *They were the
coated nails with rubber washers made for installing that type
roofing. *Is there any way to prevent that when installing the new
roofing? *Predrilling maybe?

How large is the roof area in question ?

Using panel goods you will have the same problems eventually...

You should see if any roofing contractors in your area do
standing seam metal roofing, almost all the fasteners in such
roofing systems are located underneath the roof surface
and the roof is held down by clips which hold tight when
the standing seam is folded closed... Best thing is that
if the contractor does enough of this type of roofing they
will have a machine which will take a coil of the metal
and form it into the roof allowing for a system with custom
length unbroken panels from the eaves to the ridge...

Just an idea, less edges exposed means less leaks,
less exposed fasteners means less rust in the future
and a longer life for the roof...

On Sat, 15 Sep 2012 19:16:42 -0700 (PDT), Red
wrote:

The existing metal roofing started rusting at, and spread from, the
nail holes punched thru the metal by the roofing nails. They were the
coated nails with rubber washers made for installing that type
roofing. Is there any way to prevent that when installing the new
roofing? Predrilling maybe?

Would this work?

[page bottom]

"Notice in this picture that the antiseize is thick and pasty. This is
because it contains mostly zinc (43%). Some inexpensive antiseize is
thinner. This is because it contains more oil and grease and less of
the more expensive active ingredient. The best method of making sure
you get good antiseize is to purchase antiseize that conforms to
MIL-T-2361. This is where you can purchase this zinc rich antiseize."

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/galvanize.html

"Red" wrote in message
...
Utility galvanized metal roofing for barns, sheds, etc. The 5v runs
$15 per 8' sheet whereas the 2.5" corrugated runs about $10. What are
the pros & cons for each type and is it worth the price difference?

The existing metal roofing started rusting at, and spread from, the
nail holes punched thru the metal by the roofing nails. They were the
coated nails with rubber washers made for installing that type
roofing. Is there any way to prevent that when installing the new
roofing? Predrilling maybe?

It really all depends on what your end use is. If you visit Fabral's site,
you will probably get their spiel about their 11 coatings they put on metal.
That's a little hard to believe.

I was a steel erection contractor for nearly a decade, and did a ton of
carport repairs, but that was before Fabral came out. We used similar from
ASC Pacific and others.

Let me tell you what. I've seen twenty year old metal that you can't find a
rust spot on. I have had piles of odd pieces around here that have sat one
sheet on top of another for a year or two, and when separated, not a rust
spot to be found. So, if you do go with the good stuff, you get your money
worth. Around my place, I have approximately 2,000 sf of roofing coverings
in the form of carports, work area covers, building end lean to's and
others. I use premium materials, and don't regret it one bit.

We get hellacious winds here, and I engineered my rear awning (35' x 16')
for 105 mph winds. Two neighbors called me crazy. But then we had a
hellacious storm, and mine was sitting there, and theirs were spread over
four zip codes. Mine also had 1/3 cubic yard of concrete in Sonotube on
each of the three outrigger legs. Portable mixers carry one cubic yard, and
there were three posts, so for $100, that was a no brainer.

With most wavy corrugated, unless you have absolutely flat mating surfaces,
you start out with a problem trying to fasten the U of one of the valleys to
another surface. The light corrugated is just that, light, and once it
starts flapping, the failure mode is something like flapping, tearing, and
disintegrating. And the material is thin to start with.

The trouble with this stuff is that for small jobs, it's hardly worth it to
spend as much as it costs to do it right. But on the other hand, it doesn't
hold up well, and you end up doing it more than once.

How big of an area are you talking about?

I am going out tomorrow to hopefully finish my 1200 sf roof that I put over
two 40' containers. 16' inbetween them. I built the joists myself. It's
all of Fabral Mighty Rib. I tend to overkill, but then I did enough
insurance repair jobs of bad carport work to know what works and what don't.

Check into what some Fabral would cost you. Your local steel supplier
probably has it. Use the 14 ga. purlins, and 26 or 24 ga. sheets. 3" x 3"
x .120" square tube steel posts. Get the good self tap with sealer
fasteners, available cheaply on ebay. Find and buy the tek stitchers to
join sheet metal to sheet metal.

If it's just a throw it up lean to, that's one thing. If you want to do it
right, never have it blow down, and NEVER have to paint it, use the good
stuff.

I'll take some pics tomorrow and post on flickr.

Steve