Today I tried drilling a hole in the guardrail - but the drill bit
wouldn't make a dent.

See picture he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

What would you use to drill a hole suitable for mounting a garbage can
where there is no electricity available?

In article ,
James Gagney wrote:

Today I tried drilling a hole in the guardrail - but the drill bit
wouldn't make a dent.

See picture he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

What would you use to drill a hole suitable for mounting a garbage can
where there is no electricity available?

Drill bits aren't supposed to make dents.

To drill metal, you need a sharp, quality drill bit. Not the cheapo home
improvement center bits. You also need some cutting oil, although
lubricating oil will do in a pinch. Also, start with a 1/8" drill and
work your way up. High RPM for the small bit, lower as you get bigger.

Lastly, lean into it. WIth a drill press, the quill handle gives you a
lot of mechanical advantage without you necessarily being aware of it.
WIth a handheld drill, you have to put your weight behind it. If you
don't, the drill will just get dull, rapidly.

For the guard rail, since it's curved, you might want to center punch it
to keep the drill from walking.

James:

The problem is likely to be a dull drill bit.

That guard rail is most likely made of mild steel that has a Rockwell Hardness of about Rc=35. Your drill bit looks like just a high speed steel bit, and it's got a hardness of about Rc=50 or so. So, if that were a sharp bit, you should have made some progress.

If you were wanting advice from me on buying a new SET of drill bits, I'd tell you to buy a set of cobalt steel drill bits. These are the brownish coloured ones that look like this:

http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/5...obalt-bits.jpg

Cobalt steel bits provide for the best economy because they're made from a considerably harder kind of steel than high speed steel. Cobalt steel has a Rc hardness of about 65 or so. That results in the drill bit dulling slower than a HSS bit. And, if you dull a cobalt steel drill bit, you can have it sharpened, and you've effectively got a new drill bit for the $2 or $3 cost of sharpening it.

But, for a one-time project like this one, my advice to you would be to buy a titanium nitride coated drill bit of the size you need. Titanium nitride coated drill bits are the gold coloured ones that look like this:

http://www.irwin.com/uploads/product...l-bits-362.jpg

Titanium nitride coated drill bits are nothing more than high speed steel drill bits with a SUPER hard coating on them. The hardness of that titanium nitride is about Rc = low 80's or so; 81, 82, 83 maybe. But, that's vastly harder than anything else on the market so titanium nitride bits will make the fastest progress and get dull the slowest.

For a one time project like this, I'd pay a few dollars for a titanium nitride bit in the size you need, and just chuck it once it gets dull. You CAN have titanium nitride bits sharpened, but sharpening them grinds off the super hard titanium nitride cutting edges at the front of the bit, so you're effectively left with a sharp high speed steel bit that will dull just as quickly as any other high speed steel drill bit.

And, as previously suggested, I'd use a cutting oil if you have any. If not, just stop frequently and use a Q-tip to apply any kinda oil (even cooking oil or engine oil) onto the hole you're making. That'll help to keep the drill bit cool.

That's pretty much what I was going to write. Prick punch, to get the
location started. Brand new bit, 1/8. Use the next size larger, after that.
Can also drill from the inside out, which will help with the drill bit
wandering.

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
...

See picture he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

To drill metal, you need a sharp, quality drill bit. Not the cheapo home
improvement center bits. You also need some cutting oil, although
lubricating oil will do in a pinch. Also, start with a 1/8" drill and
work your way up. High RPM for the small bit, lower as you get bigger.

Lastly, lean into it. WIth a drill press, the quill handle gives you a
lot of mechanical advantage without you necessarily being aware of it.
WIth a handheld drill, you have to put your weight behind it. If you
don't, the drill will just get dull, rapidly.

For the guard rail, since it's curved, you might want to center punch it
to keep the drill from walking.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:


Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet,
to make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.


Who makes a jacketed .22 rimfire bullet?

I think a .22 would probably not make it through steel that thick; I think
you'd need a centerfire bullet to do it.

--
Tegger

Dunno about the jackets. I havn't researched that. Sounded good. You may be
right about the steel thickness. Calls for some testing.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Tegger" wrote in message
...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:


Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet,
to make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.


Who makes a jacketed .22 rimfire bullet?

I think a .22 would probably not make it through steel that thick; I think
you'd need a centerfire bullet to do it.

--
Tegger

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Dunno about the jackets. I havn't researched that. Sounded good. You
may be right about the steel thickness. Calls for some testing.



That's the fun part...


--
Tegger

On Sun, 2 Sep 2012 08:03:17 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Dunno about the jackets. I havn't researched that. Sounded good. You may be
right about the steel thickness. Calls for some testing.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Tegger" wrote in message
...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:


Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet,
to make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.


Who makes a jacketed .22 rimfire bullet?

I suppose you mean FMJ (JHP is "jacketed, too";-).

In any case, be careful how you ask a question:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4...NITION#skugrid


I think a .22 would probably not make it through steel that thick; I think
you'd need a centerfire bullet to do it.

It would probably make a mess of the reverse side, too.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.

What?

You don't own a gun, and are advocating unsafe use of one.

True on both counts. Sigh. Well, it was a thought.
Please forget I even suggested it.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"G. Morgan" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.

What?

You don't own a gun, and are advocating unsafe use of one.

In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote:
That's pretty much what I was going to write. Prick punch, to get the
location started. Brand new bit, 1/8. Use the next size larger, after that.
Can also drill from the inside out, which will help with the drill bit
wandering.

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.


From 50 feet a .22 will not even reliably go through an aluminum road sign,
let alone a steel guardrail.


--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

Well, in that case, nevermind. Better to stick
to titanium drill bits.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Larry W" wrote in message
...

From 50 feet a .22 will not even reliably go
through an aluminum road sign,
let alone a steel guardrail.

On Mon, 03 Sep 2012 08:31:51 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Well, in that case, nevermind. Better to stick to titanium drill bits

Titanium was exactly what I was missing!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9249368.jpg

The bit is a bit scratched up, but other than that, it's no worse for the
wear!

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:48:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 2 Sep 2012 05:58:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.

A .22 would not even dent that material. I doubt any pistol would hurt
it unless you have a "cop killer" bullet.
Maybe a .308? If you have an AP round it would be a clean hole.

I think I could make a .45 caliber hole in that with a pistol.

Jim
[if I had a pistol, that is]

On 9/2/12 2:00 PM, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:48:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 2 Sep 2012 05:58:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.

A .22 would not even dent that material. I doubt any pistol would hurt
it unless you have a "cop killer" bullet.
Maybe a .308? If you have an AP round it would be a clean hole.

I think I could make a .45 caliber hole in that with a pistol.

Jim
[if I had a pistol, that is]

I think the OP could wait for deer season. Put up a dummy buck and
see what happens. Would an 8 pointer be over doing it?

Dummy buck practicing hard cover? I think that's
ammusing.

Concealment is essential. Cover is better.
Tracers work both ways.
5 second fuses last 3 seconds.
Battle radios aren't loud enough, and their range
is about half mile short of reaching the fire base.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Dean Hoffman" " wrote in message
...
Maybe a .308? If you have an AP round it would be a clean hole.

I think I could make a .45 caliber hole in that with a pistol.

Jim
[if I had a pistol, that is]

I think the OP could wait for deer season. Put up a dummy buck and
see what happens. Would an 8 pointer be over doing it?

I'm awaiting the test results.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 2 Sep 2012 05:58:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.

A .22 would not even dent that material. I doubt any pistol would hurt
it unless you have a "cop killer" bullet.
Maybe a .308? If you have an AP round it would be a clean hole.

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:48:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 2 Sep 2012 05:58:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.

A .22 would not even dent that material. I doubt any pistol would hurt
it unless you have a "cop killer" bullet.
Maybe a .308? If you have an AP round it would be a clean hole.

I .357Mag, or better, would probably do a number on it.

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:48:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 2 Sep 2012 05:58:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.

A .22 would not even dent that material. I doubt any pistol would hurt
it unless you have a "cop killer" bullet.
Maybe a .308? If you have an AP round it would be a clean hole.

I .357Mag, or better, would probably do a number on it.

That steel isn't body armor caliber. I wouldn't trust it!

On Mon, 03 Sep 2012 02:03:01 -0500, G. Morgan
wrote:

wrote:

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:48:13 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 2 Sep 2012 05:58:26 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Some country folks would use a .22 rimfire rifle, from about 50 feet, to
make the initial hole. 40 grain jacketed solid.

A .22 would not even dent that material. I doubt any pistol would hurt
it unless you have a "cop killer" bullet.
Maybe a .308? If you have an AP round it would be a clean hole.

I .357Mag, or better, would probably do a number on it.

That steel isn't body armor caliber. I wouldn't trust it!

I wouldn't be shooting *at* it, either.

On 09/01/2012 06:49 PM, Smitty Two wrote:


To drill metal, you need a sharp, quality drill bit. Not the cheapo home
improvement center bits.

As long as it is a HSS twist bit, it doesn't matter if you buy it from
the big box; if he follows the rest of your suggestions it will work
just fine.

The only thing I would add is to start with a smaller bit and work up to
the size he wants.

Jon

You also need some cutting oil, although
lubricating oil will do in a pinch. Also, start with a 1/8" drill and
work your way up. High RPM for the small bit, lower as you get bigger.

Lastly, lean into it. WIth a drill press, the quill handle gives you a
lot of mechanical advantage without you necessarily being aware of it.
WIth a handheld drill, you have to put your weight behind it. If you
don't, the drill will just get dull, rapidly.

For the guard rail, since it's curved, you might want to center punch it
to keep the drill from walking.

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 09:16:38 -0700, Jon Danniken wrote:

As long as it is a HSS twist bit, it doesn't matter if you buy it from
the big box; if he follows the rest of your suggestions it will work
just fine.

I picked up these from Home Depot today:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9179762.jpg

I'll start small ... and then work my way up to the size I need.

"James Gagney" wrote in message
...
Today I tried drilling a hole in the guardrail - but the drill bit
wouldn't make a dent.

See picture he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

What would you use to drill a hole suitable for mounting a garbage can
where there is no electricity available?

Center punch a starter point, and hit it HARD. Make a hole with a small
(less than 1/4") bit. Graduate up from there in size. Don't overspin the
bit. As long as you are getting cuttings, it's working. Don't spin your
bit so fast that it gets hot and doesn't get a bite. You will just dull the
bit, and if there's seashell looking coloration on the bit, it's been over
heated. It's working perfectly when you get long spiral waste out of your
cuttings. You might have to grab hold of something, or have someone push on
your back to get some meat into the cutting end of the bit. That metal is
hot dipped galvanized, but it is not that hard.

HTH

Steve

On Sat, 01 Sep 2012 19:55:07 -0700, Steve B wrote:

Graduate up from there in size. Don't overspin the bit. As long as you
are getting cuttings, it's working. Don't spin your bit so fast that it
gets hot and doesn't get a bite.

That's exactly what I did!
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9249370.jpg

On 9/1/12 8:41 PM, James Gagney wrote:
Today I tried drilling a hole in the guardrail - but the drill bit
wouldn't make a dent.

See picture he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

What would you use to drill a hole suitable for mounting a garbage can
where there is no electricity available?

I'd probably just use a cheap ratchet strap or bungee cord to hold
the can. Another thought would be an over door hanger of some sort.
Would an animal feed bucket fit your needs? Or this
http://tinyurl.com/9y3q846 ? It's supposed to hold a five gallon bucket.

James Gagney writes:

Today I tried drilling a hole in the guardrail - but the drill bit
wouldn't make a dent.

See picture he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

What would you use to drill a hole suitable for mounting a garbage can
where there is no electricity available?

That railing doesn't look like the kind of thing a poster here would
own...

Are you sure the owner wants holes drilled in his railing?

--
Dan Espen

In article , says...

James Gagney writes:

Today I tried drilling a hole in the guardrail - but the drill bit
wouldn't make a dent.

See picture he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

What would you use to drill a hole suitable for mounting a garbage can
where there is no electricity available?

That railing doesn't look like the kind of thing a poster here would
own...

Are you sure the owner wants holes drilled in his railing?

Right!

Those guardrails are designed to collapse in the event a vehicle hits
one. This reduces injuries to people in the vehicle. I would rather not
be responsible for modifying one or mounting objects on one which would
in any way alter the function of it! (And then get some lawyer claiming
I was partially responsible for injuries caused in an accident.)

Traffic engineers would have a fit if they saw that. They go to a lot of
work to get road signs and so forth to "break away" if a vehicle hits
them. Like this...

http://safety.fhwa.dot.gov/roadway_d...hardware/ctrme
asures/breakaway/

In article ,
Bill wrote:

In article , says...

James Gagney writes:

Today I tried drilling a hole in the guardrail - but the drill bit
wouldn't make a dent.

See picture he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

What would you use to drill a hole suitable for mounting a garbage can
where there is no electricity available?

That railing doesn't look like the kind of thing a poster here would
own...

Are you sure the owner wants holes drilled in his railing?

Right!

Those guardrails are designed to collapse in the event a vehicle hits
one. This reduces injuries to people in the vehicle. I would rather not
be responsible for modifying one or mounting objects on one which would
in any way alter the function of it! (And then get some lawyer claiming
I was partially responsible for injuries caused in an accident.)

Traffic engineers would have a fit if they saw that. They go to a lot of
work to get road signs and so forth to "break away" if a vehicle hits
them. Like this...

http://safety.fhwa.dot.gov/roadway_d...hardware/ctrme
asures/breakaway/

When people are killed in car accidents, instead of leaving flowers at
the site, we should just leave the dead bodies there. Then we'd develop
safer drivers, instead of this ridiculous fascination we have with
compensating for stupidity. By using terms like "errant vehicle" we
absolve the nut behind the wheel. I think we've taken that absolution a
little too far.

Smitty Two wrote in
:

In article ,
Bill wrote:

In article , says...

James Gagney writes:

Today I tried drilling a hole in the guardrail - but the drill
bit wouldn't make a dent.

See picture he
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

What would you use to drill a hole suitable for mounting a
garbage can where there is no electricity available?

That railing doesn't look like the kind of thing a poster here
would own...

Are you sure the owner wants holes drilled in his railing?

Right!

Those guardrails are designed to collapse in the event a vehicle hits
one. This reduces injuries to people in the vehicle. I would rather
not be responsible for modifying one or mounting objects on one which
would in any way alter the function of it! (And then get some lawyer
claiming I was partially responsible for injuries caused in an
accident.)

Traffic engineers would have a fit if they saw that. They go to a lot
of work to get road signs and so forth to "break away" if a vehicle
hits them. Like this...

http://safety.fhwa.dot.gov/roadway_d...d_hardware/ctr
me asures/breakaway/

When people are killed in car accidents, instead of leaving flowers at
the site, we should just leave the dead bodies there. Then we'd
develop safer drivers, instead of this ridiculous fascination we have
with compensating for stupidity. By using terms like "errant vehicle"
we absolve the nut behind the wheel. I think we've taken that
absolution a little too far.

In VT, many parts of the interstate are divided by rock formations left
when the road was built. The people you describe were having a "hard"
time with them pun blatently intended. So they wanted to remove it to
make it safer for assholes. Guess someone figured hitting oncoming
interstate traffic was a good thing.

http://news.google.com/newspapers?id... 35%2C5560016

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 09:17:20 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:



Traffic engineers would have a fit if they saw that. They go to a lot of
work to get road signs and so forth to "break away" if a vehicle hits
them. Like this...

http://safety.fhwa.dot.gov/roadway_d...hardware/ctrme
asures/breakaway/

When people are killed in car accidents, instead of leaving flowers at
the site, we should just leave the dead bodies there.

There may be some practical problems with that. I'll have to check


But one thing I've seen in several states is a white cross where each
person died. I'm not a Christian and I dislike enormously attempts
to insert religion into the government anywhere, including Christian
or other sectarian invocations at football games. This is the one and
only place where I woudn't object -- if private parties do it and not
the Highway Department or Police -- because it is simple, easy, and
clear, and they can be placed just where each person died, or just off
the road where the car came to rest.

It marks the part of the road that has been proven to be dangerous.
So sometimes I see tham at a curve at the end of a long straight run.

I've even seen the top dipped in red paint. I guess that is the same
plain white, since surely no one is marking mere injuries. Unless
there was a death and injuries in the same accident.

If I die in a traffic accident, I'm sure one of my friends will come
and remove any cross put up where I die.


Then we'd develop
safer drivers, instead of this ridiculous fascination we have with
compensating for stupidity. By using terms like "errant vehicle" we
absolve the nut behind the wheel. I think we've taken that absolution a
little too far.

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:51:14 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 09:17:20 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:



Traffic engineers would have a fit if they saw that. They go to a lot of
work to get road signs and so forth to "break away" if a vehicle hits
them. Like this...

http://safety.fhwa.dot.gov/roadway_d...hardware/ctrme
asures/breakaway/

When people are killed in car accidents, instead of leaving flowers at
the site, we should just leave the dead bodies there.

There may be some practical problems with that. I'll have to check


But one thing I've seen in several states is a white cross where each
person died. I'm not a Christian and I dislike enormously attempts
to insert religion into the government anywhere, including Christian
or other sectarian invocations at football games. This is the one and
only place where I woudn't object -- if private parties do it and not
the Highway Department or Police -- because it is simple, easy, and
clear, and they can be placed just where each person died, or just off
the road where the car came to rest.

It marks the part of the road that has been proven to be dangerous.
So sometimes I see tham at a curve at the end of a long straight run.

I've even seen the top dipped in red paint. I guess that is the same
plain white, since surely no one is marking mere injuries. Unless
there was a death and injuries in the same accident.

If I die in a traffic accident, I'm sure one of my friends will come
and remove any cross put up where I die.

It must be horrible to have to go through life, going OUT OF YOUR WAY, to hate
so much. Amazing, really.

On Sunday, September 2, 2012 2:51:15 PM UTC-4, (unknown) wrote:
But one thing I've seen in several states is a white cross where each
person died. I'm not a Christian and I dislike enormously attempts
to insert religion into the government anywhere, including Christian
or other sectarian invocations at football games. This is the one and
only place where I woudn't object -- if private parties do it and not
the Highway Department or Police -- because it is simple, easy, and
clear, and they can be placed just where each person died, or just off
the road where the car came to rest.

You think the GOVERNMENT puts those crosses there?

Government has nothing to do with it. Grieving families, friends, or private do-gooders erect those distracting memorials.

They're distracting. They litter the landscape. They should be outlawed, but then the politicians who made the laws would be presented as cruel and heartless by the opposition.

It marks the part of the road that has been proven to be dangerous.

....and makes it even more dangerous, because I am looking at the cross, wondering who died, instead of paying attention to the road.

So sometimes I see tham at a curve at the end of a long straight run.

I've even seen the top dipped in red paint. I guess that is the same
plain white, since surely no one is marking mere injuries. Unless
there was a death and injuries in the same accident.

The red has no significance to differentiate between injury and death. They don't put up crosses where someone got hurt. Crosses are grave markers, not owwie markers.

If I die in a traffic accident, I'm sure one of my friends will come
and remove any cross put up where I die.

Don't worry, nobody will put one up for you.

On Sun, 2 Sep 2012 08:33:56 -0700, Bill
wrote:



Are you sure the owner wants holes drilled in his railing?

Right!

Those guardrails are designed to collapse in the event a vehicle hits
one. This reduces injuries to people in the vehicle. I would rather not
be responsible for modifying one or mounting objects on one which would
in any way alter the function of it! (And then get some lawyer claiming
I was partially responsible for injuries caused in an accident.)

Traffic engineers would have a fit if they saw that. They go to a lot of
work to get road signs and so forth to "break away" if a vehicle hits
them. Like this...

http://safety.fhwa.dot.gov/roadway_d...hardware/ctrme
asures/breakaway/



How do we know it is in a place cars will hit it? Could just be a
barrier along a walkway in a park. Do you think he'd be mounting a
trash can along an I-95 exit ramp?

Ed Pawlowski wrote in
:

On Sun, 2 Sep 2012 08:33:56 -0700, Bill
wrote:



Are you sure the owner wants holes drilled in his railing?

Right!

Those guardrails are designed to collapse in the event a vehicle hits
one. This reduces injuries to people in the vehicle. I would rather
not be responsible for modifying one or mounting objects on one which
would in any way alter the function of it! (And then get some lawyer
claiming I was partially responsible for injuries caused in an
accident.)

Traffic engineers would have a fit if they saw that. They go to a lot
of work to get road signs and so forth to "break away" if a vehicle
hits them. Like this...

http://safety.fhwa.dot.gov/roadway_d..._hardware/ctrm
e asures/breakaway/



How do we know it is in a place cars will hit it? Could just be a
barrier along a walkway in a park. Do you think he'd be mounting a
trash can along an I-95 exit ramp?


That would be major stupid wouldn't it. They've already tossed the trash
out the window.

In article ,
Ed Pawlowski wrote:

How do we know it is in a place cars will hit it? Could just be a
barrier along a walkway in a park. Do you think he'd be mounting a
trash can along an I-95 exit ramp?

Yeah, the original pic shows the cordless drill sitting on the guardrail
mounting post. Using the drill for a scale reference, I'd make the post
a 4 x 4. Seems a little light for a highway guardrail.

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 12:22:06 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Ed Pawlowski wrote:

How do we know it is in a place cars will hit it? Could just be a
barrier along a walkway in a park. Do you think he'd be mounting a
trash can along an I-95 exit ramp?

Yeah, the original pic shows the cordless drill sitting on the guardrail
mounting post. Using the drill for a scale reference, I'd make the post
a 4 x 4. Seems a little light for a highway guardrail.

I didn't even see that post before. Isn't that the OP's? Don't they
make guardrail posts out of metal I-beam. I think the rivets just
join the curled end to the straight piece, all of which is floating.
but attached where we can't see.

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 12:22:06 -0700, Smitty Two wrote:

Yeah, the original pic shows the cordless drill sitting on the guardrail
mounting post. Using the drill for a scale reference, I'd make the post
a 4 x 4. Seems a little light for a highway guardrail.

Yes. The wooden post, which has holes drilled in the bottom (presumably)
to weaken it even further, is NOT on a highway. It's just a scenic road.
A one-lane road which has a turnout where lovers congregate at night.

The guardrail is 'probably' there because there is a cliff on the other
side, and people 'could' (I guess) wholly miss the road and end up over
the cliff.

I 'could' mount the trash can to the wooden post - but that entails half
a foot of drilling, versus the thin guard rail. So my first approach will
be to see if the newly bought titanium (I think) gold-colored HSS
Kawasaki bits will do the trick.

The guardrail:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9153893.jpg

The bits:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/9179762.jpg

On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 13:54:32 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

How do we know it is in a place cars will hit it? Could just be a
barrier along a walkway in a park. Do you think he'd be mounting a
trash can along an I-95 exit ramp?

It's in a spot where people park and leave stuff on the ground. We call
it lovers leap. There's a cliff on the other side, hence the guardrail.

Even with the trash can, some people STILL litter the scenic area. Sigh.

But the trash can is blowing down in the wind, creating FURTHER litter
from the people who DID put trash in it ... so I want to be responsible
and bolt it down.

I guess a person 'could' drive a car into it ... but ... really ... do
you think a plastic trash can on the end of a guard rail is really going
to do that much damage to an incoming vehicle?

Note: The only way a vehicle can hit it, logically, is perpendicular to
it as there's no road on the bent end where the trash can is (and the
guard rail would be pointing toward were it an arrow).

James Gagney wrote:
On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 13:54:32 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

How do we know it is in a place cars will hit it? Could just be a
barrier along a walkway in a park. Do you think he'd be mounting a
trash can along an I-95 exit ramp?

It's in a spot where people park and leave stuff on the ground. We
call it lovers leap. There's a cliff on the other side, hence the
guardrail.

Even with the trash can, some people STILL litter the scenic area.
Sigh.

But the trash can is blowing down in the wind, creating FURTHER litter
from the people who DID put trash in it ... so I want to be
responsible and bolt it down.

I guess a person 'could' drive a car into it ... but ... really ... do
you think a plastic trash can on the end of a guard rail is really
going to do that much damage to an incoming vehicle?

Note: The only way a vehicle can hit it, logically, is perpendicular
to it as there's no road on the bent end where the trash can is (and
the guard rail would be pointing toward were it an arrow).

Use a chain.

Sounds like you're being a responsible citizen. And making it easier for
responsible adults to "put litter in its place". This is the kind of thing
that members of my family would do. Good on you!

I'll read a couple more posts, and see if you've made holes. Guess not. When
you get your holes, please consider using some perforated strap, to go
around the trash can. Make a big loop, so the trash can will nestle in. That
way you can lift the trash can out, not have the trashcan permanantly bolted
on.

Or, use carriage head bolts, and wingnuts. Carriage heads on the inside, so
they don't rip the trash bag. Bolts and wing nuts on the outside of the
rail. Bit of grease to keep the bolts from rusting. You may end up replacing
the trash can as it weather cracks from UV rays.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"James Gagney" wrote in message
...

It's in a spot where people park and leave stuff on the ground. We call
it lovers leap. There's a cliff on the other side, hence the guardrail.

Even with the trash can, some people STILL litter the scenic area. Sigh.

But the trash can is blowing down in the wind, creating FURTHER litter
from the people who DID put trash in it ... so I want to be responsible
and bolt it down.

I guess a person 'could' drive a car into it ... but ... really ... do
you think a plastic trash can on the end of a guard rail is really going
to do that much damage to an incoming vehicle?

Note: The only way a vehicle can hit it, logically, is perpendicular to
it as there's no road on the bent end where the trash can is (and the
guard rail would be pointing toward were it an arrow).