Replaced a wornout toilet tank to bowl gasket the other day, and had trouble getting the connection to the flush valve not to leak.

The connection tubing is metal, very stiff, and no extra length. If it doesn't meet the flush valve exactly square it will leak. Removing and replacing the tank with a different gasket makes that tricky.

But that got me to thinking. It's ALWAYS a pain getting the flush valve connection tight, whether the tubing is plastic or metal, and the parts with the valve kits often don't match what was there.

Is there a better way? I'd rather do it right with a more expensive part, and not have to worry about an eventual leak at that connection.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 11:57:49 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

Replaced a wornout toilet tank to bowl gasket the other day, and had trouble getting the connection to the flush valve not to leak.

The connection tubing is metal, very stiff, and no extra length. If it doesn't meet the flush valve exactly square it will leak. Removing and replacing the tank with a different gasket makes that tricky.

But that got me to thinking. It's ALWAYS a pain getting the flush valve connection tight, whether the tubing is plastic or metal, and the parts with the valve kits often don't match what was there.

Is there a better way? I'd rather do it right with a more expensive part, and not have to worry about an eventual leak at that connection.

Stainless steel braided toilet supply hose, flexible, various lengths,
even some use O-rings. I have had mine ~8 years.

Image page:

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=stainless+toilet+supply+hose&FORM=HDRSC2
--

On Monday, July 23, 2012 4:41:23 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 11:57:49 -0700 (PDT), TimR >
wrote:

>Replaced a wornout toilet tank to bowl gasket the other day, and had trouble getting the connection to the flush valve not to leak.
>
>The connection tubing is metal, very stiff, and no extra length. If it doesn't meet the flush valve exactly square it will leak. Removing and replacing the tank with a different gasket makes that tricky.
>
>But that got me to thinking. It's ALWAYS a pain getting the flush valve connection tight, whether the tubing is plastic or metal, and the parts with the valve kits often don't match what was there.
>
>Is there a better way? I'd rather do it right with a more expensive part, and not have to worry about an eventual leak at that connection.

Stainless steel braided toilet supply hose, flexible, various lengths,
even some use O-rings. I have had mine ~8 years.

Image page:

<http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...M=HDR SC2>
--

That's what I've been using on sinks, but didn't know you could get one to fit the flush valve without adapters.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 13:55:46 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

On Monday, July 23, 2012 4:41:23 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 11:57:49 -0700 (PDT), TimR >
wrote:
....


Stainless steel braided toilet supply hose, flexible, various lengths,
even some use O-rings. I have had mine ~8 years.

Image page:

<http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...M=HDR SC2>
--

That's what I've been using on sinks, but didn't know you could get one to fit the flush valve without adapters.

This image if for a toilet. Look at the local store.

http://www.fdsons.com/images/toilet.jpg

Get the proper length...or a tad longer than what you now have.
--

Get a braided nylon flex connection, and take out the metal tubing.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"TimR" wrote in message
...
Replaced a wornout toilet tank to bowl gasket the other day, and had trouble
getting the connection to the flush valve not to leak.

The connection tubing is metal, very stiff, and no extra length. If it
doesn't meet the flush valve exactly square it will leak. Removing and
replacing the tank with a different gasket makes that tricky.

But that got me to thinking. It's ALWAYS a pain getting the flush valve
connection tight, whether the tubing is plastic or metal, and the parts with
the valve kits often don't match what was there.

Is there a better way? I'd rather do it right with a more expensive part,
and not have to worry about an eventual leak at that connection.

Last time I worked on a toilet, the Ace hardware had assortment of flex
lines for sink or toilet connections.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"TimR" wrote in message news:24a06602-9294-4461-92eb-

That's what I've been using on sinks, but didn't know you could get one to
fit the flush valve without adapters.

replying to TimR , SI67 wrote:
timothy42b wrote:

Replaced a wornout toilet tank to bowl gasket the other day, and had
trouble
getting the connection to the flush valve not to leak.
The connection tubing is metal, very stiff, and no extra length. If it
doesn't
meet the flush valve exactly square it will leak. Removing and replacing
the
tank with a different gasket makes that tricky.
But that got me to thinking. It's ALWAYS a pain getting the flush valve
connection tight, whether the tubing is plastic or metal, and the parts
with
the
valve kits often don't match what was there.
Is there a better way? I'd rather do it right with a more expensive part,
and
not have to worry about an eventual leak at that connection.



By the way, that's really the FILL to which you are connecting. The flush
valve (typically a flapper) is the one which opens to let the water go
from the tank to the bowl.
--


--
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I second Oren's recommendation to use a braided stainless steel supply hose, which are pretty much widely considered the fastest, easiest and most reliable way to make a connection between your water shut off valve and either a faucet or (as correctly pointed out) a toilet FILL valve.



Several points:

1. The thread is different thread between toilet fill valve and a faucet, and so your local home center will have these braided supplies in two styles; one will say "Faucet" and the other will say "Closet". "Closet" is supposed to mean "Water closet", which is gentile plumber-ese for toilet. So, if you're wanting to connect a toilet, buy one that says "Closet" on the little tag.

2. Buy a braided flex a lot longer than you need, and form it into a loop between the toilet fill valve and the angle stop.

3. Beware Home Depot. They used to sell (and might still sell) these braided supply tubes made with silver coloured braided plastic instead of braided stainless steel wire. They look the same if you're wearing dark sunglasses in a dimly lit room, but the kicker is the braided plastic tube cost the same as the braided stainless steel wire. For my money, it's gotta be real stainless steel wire, not plastic that looks kind alike like stainless steel wire.

4. I have 21 toilets in my building, and all of them are connected to their respective shut off valves with these kinds of supply tubes. I like to connect the end to the fill valve first, form the loop and then connect to the 3/8 inch compression nut to the shut off valve. Hold the supply tube steady so that it doesn't twist while tightening that compression nut on the shut off valve.