I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

http://gaproofinginc.com/pdfs/apps/app_roll_roofing.pdf .

My friend was thinking of doing the tear-off, then putting down tar paper
(felt), and then the roll roofing on top of that. The above link shows the
roll roofing going directly on the plywood decking with no tar paper/felt
underneath. Is either way okay? Or, is one method better than the other?

For sealing the laps where the roll roofing overlaps itself, I have seen a
number of different terms mentioned for which product to use to do that. I
have seen "lap cement", "roof cement", "roof adhesive", "asphalt plastic
cement", etc. When I go into Home Depot, I see a bunch of different
products that all seem similar but I don't know which one to pick.

So, one question I have is, if I buy regular roll roofing at Home Depot,
what product should I buy to seal where the roll roofing overlaps? -- "lap
cement", "roof cement", something else?. If you happen to know the exact
Home Depot product name, that would been even better so I get the right
product.

Also, we were planning on using the "Application Parallel To The Eaves" and
"Concealed Nail Method" described on the above link. If we do it as shown
in the link -- without any tar paper/felt -- would there be any advantage to
also just gluing down the whole width of the roll roofing to the plywood
deck (in addition to the concealed nailing), rather than just
"gluing"/sealing the overlaps? If so, what product would we use to adhere
the entire width of the roll roofing to the bare wood deck? -- lap cement;
something else?

Any suggestions or links to good instructions or a good YouTube how-to video
would be appreciated.

Thanks.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

http://gaproofinginc.com/pdfs/apps/app_roll_roofing.pdf .

My friend was thinking of doing the tear-off, then putting down tar paper
(felt), and then the roll roofing on top of that. The above link shows the
roll roofing going directly on the plywood decking with no tar paper/felt
underneath. Is either way okay? Or, is one method better than the other?

For sealing the laps where the roll roofing overlaps itself, I have seen a
number of different terms mentioned for which product to use to do that. I
have seen "lap cement", "roof cement", "roof adhesive", "asphalt plastic
cement", etc. When I go into Home Depot, I see a bunch of different
products that all seem similar but I don't know which one to pick.

So, one question I have is, if I buy regular roll roofing at Home Depot,
what product should I buy to seal where the roll roofing overlaps? -- "lap
cement", "roof cement", something else?. If you happen to know the exact
Home Depot product name, that would been even better so I get the right
product.

Also, we were planning on using the "Application Parallel To The Eaves" and
"Concealed Nail Method" described on the above link. If we do it as shown
in the link -- without any tar paper/felt -- would there be any advantage to
also just gluing down the whole width of the roll roofing to the plywood
deck (in addition to the concealed nailing), rather than just
"gluing"/sealing the overlaps? If so, what product would we use to adhere
the entire width of the roll roofing to the bare wood deck? -- lap cement;
something else?

Any suggestions or links to good instructions or a good YouTube how-to video
would be appreciated.

Thanks.



No and I don't mean to hijack your question here but I've got 2
questions of my own that come to mind for you. Is this the same thing
they do on many residential roof tops in NYC as it sounds similar?
2nd, why do you want this instead of the shingled roof? I'm sure you
have your reasons, just curious.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

http://gaproofinginc.com/pdfs/apps/app_roll_roofing.pdf .

My friend was thinking of doing the tear-off, then putting down tar paper
(felt), and then the roll roofing on top of that. The above link shows the
roll roofing going directly on the plywood decking with no tar paper/felt
underneath. Is either way okay? Or, is one method better than the other?

Put down blueShield or equivalent first - or better yet a "torch down"
membrane - then the roll roofing for protection.

For sealing the laps where the roll roofing overlaps itself, I have seen a
number of different terms mentioned for which product to use to do that. I
have seen "lap cement", "roof cement", "roof adhesive", "asphalt plastic
cement", etc. When I go into Home Depot, I see a bunch of different
products that all seem similar but I don't know which one to pick.

So, one question I have is, if I buy regular roll roofing at Home Depot,
what product should I buy to seal where the roll roofing overlaps? -- "lap
cement", "roof cement", something else?. If you happen to know the exact
Home Depot product name, that would been even better so I get the right
product.

Also, we were planning on using the "Application Parallel To The Eaves" and
"Concealed Nail Method" described on the above link. If we do it as shown
in the link -- without any tar paper/felt -- would there be any advantage to
also just gluing down the whole width of the roll roofing to the plywood
deck (in addition to the concealed nailing), rather than just
"gluing"/sealing the overlaps? If so, what product would we use to adhere
the entire width of the roll roofing to the bare wood deck? -- lap cement;
something else?

Any suggestions or links to good instructions or a good YouTube how-to video
would be appreciated.

Thanks.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 11:58:13 -0500, "Doug"
wrote:

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

http://gaproofinginc.com/pdfs/apps/app_roll_roofing.pdf .

My friend was thinking of doing the tear-off, then putting down tar paper
(felt), and then the roll roofing on top of that. The above link shows the
roll roofing going directly on the plywood decking with no tar paper/felt
underneath. Is either way okay? Or, is one method better than the other?

For sealing the laps where the roll roofing overlaps itself, I have seen a
number of different terms mentioned for which product to use to do that. I
have seen "lap cement", "roof cement", "roof adhesive", "asphalt plastic
cement", etc. When I go into Home Depot, I see a bunch of different
products that all seem similar but I don't know which one to pick.

So, one question I have is, if I buy regular roll roofing at Home Depot,
what product should I buy to seal where the roll roofing overlaps? -- "lap
cement", "roof cement", something else?. If you happen to know the exact
Home Depot product name, that would been even better so I get the right
product.

Also, we were planning on using the "Application Parallel To The Eaves" and
"Concealed Nail Method" described on the above link. If we do it as shown
in the link -- without any tar paper/felt -- would there be any advantage to
also just gluing down the whole width of the roll roofing to the plywood
deck (in addition to the concealed nailing), rather than just
"gluing"/sealing the overlaps? If so, what product would we use to adhere
the entire width of the roll roofing to the bare wood deck? -- lap cement;
something else?

Any suggestions or links to good instructions or a good YouTube how-to video
would be appreciated.

Thanks.



No and I don't mean to hijack your question here but I've got 2
questions of my own that come to mind for you. Is this the same thing
they do on many residential roof tops in NYC as it sounds similar?
2nd, why do you want this instead of the shingled roof? I'm sure you
have your reasons, just curious.
3/12 slope is too flat for normal shingles.

Doug wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about
14' x 17') with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off
the existing roll roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof
it using roll roofing. I have a contractor friend who can do the
work and who has done regular asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the
past. But, he has not done roll roofing and he and I are not quite
clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing is done.

No and I don't mean to hijack your question here but I've got 2
questions of my own that come to mind for you. Is this the same thing
they do on many residential roof tops in NYC as it sounds similar?

I don't know. I am not in NYC. I'm in Southern New Jersey.

2nd, why do you want this instead of the shingled roof? I'm sure you
have your reasons, just curious.

The slope is just a little to shallow for a shingled roof. I wrote "3/12"
but it's more like "2/12" for the slope.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

The instructions are right on the rolls of the roll roofing.....

Roll roofing is crap. If you want a roof that will last, use rubber or
steel. It costs more, but you'll be replacing roll roofing every 3 to 5
years, and that is costly and time consuming. Do it right the first
time, and forget it for many years.

Your roof is nearly the same size as my tool shed. It had roll roofing
when I bought this place, and was in bad shape. I priced roll roofing
and dound the cost would be about $125 for materials. I bought steel
roofing (pole barn ribbed steel) and spent $220. ($95 difference).
That steel roof will likely outlast me, with roll roofing, I'd be
spending $125 in 3 to 5 years again, and having to do the job over
again.

The steel was easier to install too. No messy roofing cement to cope
with.

However, if your roof is completely flat, you cant use pole barn steel,
so you'll need a costlier steel or rubber roofing. But I'd still
consider getting prices for a better roofing material.

PS. I'm not sure what the slope is on my roof, or how to calculate it,
but it drops 27 inches in 14 feet. Sufficient for the pole barn metal.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 13:14:20 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

Doug wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about
14' x 17') with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off
the existing roll roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof
it using roll roofing. I have a contractor friend who can do the
work and who has done regular asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the
past. But, he has not done roll roofing and he and I are not quite
clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing is done.

No and I don't mean to hijack your question here but I've got 2
questions of my own that come to mind for you. Is this the same thing
they do on many residential roof tops in NYC as it sounds similar?

I don't know. I am not in NYC. I'm in Southern New Jersey.

2nd, why do you want this instead of the shingled roof? I'm sure you
have your reasons, just curious.

The slope is just a little to shallow for a shingled roof. I wrote "3/12"
but it's more like "2/12" for the slope.



Thanks Tom. I bet it is similar to NYC because the roof tops I had
in mind there are essentially flat ... tho they probably have a slight
pitch in reality. Good luck.

wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about
14' x 17') with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off
the existing roll roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof
it using roll roofing. I have a contractor friend who can do the
work and who has done regular asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the
past. But, he has not done roll roofing and he and I are not quite
clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing is done.

Roll roofing is crap. If you want a roof that will last, use rubber
or steel. It costs more, but you'll be replacing roll roofing every
3 to 5 years, and that is costly and time consuming. Do it right the
first time, and forget it for many years.

Thanks, but for various reasons, this is going to be a roll roofing job --
and not a rubber, torch-down, TPO, steel, or any other kind of roofing job.
I do know the pros and cons etc., but in this case all I need is info on
doing it as a roll roofing job.

wrote:

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

The instructions are right on the rolls of the roll roofing.....

Roll roofing is crap. If you want a roof that will last, use rubber or
steel. It costs more, but you'll be replacing roll roofing every 3 to 5
years, and that is costly and time consuming. Do it right the first
time, and forget it for many years.

Your roof is nearly the same size as my tool shed. It had roll roofing
when I bought this place, and was in bad shape. I priced roll roofing
and dound the cost would be about $125 for materials. I bought steel
roofing (pole barn ribbed steel) and spent $220. ($95 difference).
That steel roof will likely outlast me, with roll roofing, I'd be
spending $125 in 3 to 5 years again, and having to do the job over
again.

The steel was easier to install too. No messy roofing cement to cope
with.

However, if your roof is completely flat, you cant use pole barn steel,
so you'll need a costlier steel or rubber roofing. But I'd still
consider getting prices for a better roofing material.

PS. I'm not sure what the slope is on my roof, or how to calculate it,
but it drops 27 inches in 14 feet. Sufficient for the pole barn metal.

Metal roofing may be nice, and ok for a separate structure, but it
sounds like this garage may be attached to a house so the roofing may
need to blend in better.

27"/14'= 1.9285714 or roughly 2/12 slope i.e. 2" rise for every 12" of
run.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 13:28:50 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

The instructions are right on the rolls of the roll roofing.....

Roll roofing is crap. If you want a roof that will last, use rubber or
steel. It costs more, but you'll be replacing roll roofing every 3 to 5
years, and that is costly and time consuming. Do it right the first
time, and forget it for many years.

Your roof is nearly the same size as my tool shed. It had roll roofing
when I bought this place, and was in bad shape. I priced roll roofing
and dound the cost would be about $125 for materials. I bought steel
roofing (pole barn ribbed steel) and spent $220. ($95 difference).
That steel roof will likely outlast me, with roll roofing, I'd be
spending $125 in 3 to 5 years again, and having to do the job over
again.

The steel was easier to install too. No messy roofing cement to cope
with.

However, if your roof is completely flat, you cant use pole barn steel,
so you'll need a costlier steel or rubber roofing. But I'd still
consider getting prices for a better roofing material.

PS. I'm not sure what the slope is on my roof, or how to calculate it,
but it drops 27 inches in 14 feet. Sufficient for the pole barn metal.
You are about as close to 2/12 as you can get. 2 inches in a foot
would be 28 inches over 14 feet.

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 16:15:40 -0400, wrote:


PS. I'm not sure what the slope is on my roof, or how to calculate it,
but it drops 27 inches in 14 feet. Sufficient for the pole barn metal.
You are about as close to 2/12 as you can get. 2 inches in a foot
would be 28 inches over 14 feet.

Thanks

What is the formula used to figure this? I have to admit being an idiot
when it comes to mathematics. But I can plug in figures if I know the
formula. The shed itself is 10 foot high in front and 8 foot in the
rear. It's 12 feet wide. But there is one foot overhang on both front
and rear, thus 14 feet of roof. Therefore the roof is higher in front
and loer in back from the actual building walls.

"TomR" wrote in message
...
I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x
17') with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing
roll roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll
roofing. I have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done
regular asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll
roofing and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how
roll roofing is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here
is one link that I found:

http://gaproofinginc.com/pdfs/apps/app_roll_roofing.pdf .

My friend was thinking of doing the tear-off, then putting down tar paper
(felt), and then the roll roofing on top of that. The above link shows
the roll roofing going directly on the plywood decking with no tar
paper/felt underneath. Is either way okay? Or, is one method better
than the other?

For sealing the laps where the roll roofing overlaps itself, I have seen
a number of different terms mentioned for which product to use to do
that. I have seen "lap cement", "roof cement", "roof adhesive", "asphalt
plastic cement", etc. When I go into Home Depot, I see a bunch of
different products that all seem similar but I don't know which one to
pick.

So, one question I have is, if I buy regular roll roofing at Home Depot,
what product should I buy to seal where the roll roofing overlaps? --
"lap cement", "roof cement", something else?. If you happen to know the
exact Home Depot product name, that would been even better so I get the
right product.

Also, we were planning on using the "Application Parallel To The Eaves"
and "Concealed Nail Method" described on the above link. If we do it as
shown in the link -- without any tar paper/felt -- would there be any
advantage to also just gluing down the whole width of the roll roofing to
the plywood deck (in addition to the concealed nailing), rather than just
"gluing"/sealing the overlaps? If so, what product would we use to
adhere the entire width of the roll roofing to the bare wood deck? -- lap
cement; something else?

Any suggestions or links to good instructions or a good YouTube how-to
video would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Look into GAF Ruberoid mop down, cold process. No doubt you have to buy it
through a roofing supply house, do not believe you will find it in your
typical box store.

It's very flexible/pliable, only about a 4" over lap. You can bend the
stuff in half, and not crack it. You mop down the adhesive, on the overlap
you trowel down Karnak or similar lap cement. The nails are concealed. Good
stuff, at least it was about 15 yrs ago.

wrote in message
...
Put down blueShield or equivalent first - or better yet a "torch down"
membrane - then the roll roofing for protection.

Around here, torch down is no longer allowed, cities won't allow a permit
when it finds out it's a torch down. The insurance companies will no longer
insure torch down methods. Been this way at least for 10 years.

Guess there were too many fire bugs!

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 17:23:52 -0400, "Gomba" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
Put down blueShield or equivalent first - or better yet a "torch down"
membrane - then the roll roofing for protection.

Around here, torch down is no longer allowed, cities won't allow a permit
when it finds out it's a torch down. The insurance companies will no longer
insure torch down methods. Been this way at least for 10 years.

Guess there were too many fire bugs!






Torch down membrane is still OK here, but hot tar is just about done.

wrote:

On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

The instructions are right on the rolls of the roll roofing.....

Roll roofing is crap. If you want a roof that will last, use rubber or
steel. It costs more, but you'll be replacing roll roofing every 3 to 5
years, and that is costly and time consuming. Do it right the first
time, and forget it for many years.

Oh, nonsense. I replaced my roll roofing just after I moved into my
house 35 years ago; I replaced it again about 10 years ago. Since
technology keeps improving, I guess I'll get 15 to 20 more years out
of it. Nowhere near 3 to 5 years.

Single sheet rubber is supposed to be even better but the problem is
that it costs about 3 times as much and is usually only done for large
commercial premises. The cost is in the labor and transportation. It's
all special order and lifting it to the top of a building (even 4
stories like mine) requires a crane. It also requires lots of skill
and experience to lay, not just a couple of day laborers.

On Jul 23, 10:38*pm, wrote:
wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. *It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). *The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. *I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. *But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. *Here is
one link that I found:

The instructions are right on the rolls of the roll roofing.....

Roll roofing is crap. *If you want a roof that will last, use rubber or
steel. *It costs more, but you'll be replacing roll roofing every 3 to 5
years, and that is costly and time consuming. *Do it right the first
time, and forget it for many years.

Oh, nonsense. I replaced my roll roofing just after I moved into my
house 35 years ago; I replaced it again about 10 years ago. Since
technology keeps improving, I guess I'll get 15 to 20 more years out
of it. Nowhere near 3 to 5 years.

Single sheet rubber is supposed to be even better but the problem is
that it costs about 3 times as much and is usually only done for large
commercial premises. The cost is in the labor and transportation. It's
all special order and lifting it to the top of a building (even 4
stories like mine) requires a crane. It also requires lots of skill
and experience to lay, not just a couple of day laborers.

Yep, I have a low slope 'shed roof' over my back porch. Did roll
roofing some 10 or 15 yiears ago and it shows zero signs of damage.

Of course if one doesn't apply it correctly...

Harry K

On Tue, 24 Jul 2012 07:44:33 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jul 23, 10:38*pm, wrote:
wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. *It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). *The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. *I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. *But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. *Here is
one link that I found:

The instructions are right on the rolls of the roll roofing.....

Roll roofing is crap. *If you want a roof that will last, use rubber or
steel. *It costs more, but you'll be replacing roll roofing every 3 to 5
years, and that is costly and time consuming. *Do it right the first
time, and forget it for many years.

Oh, nonsense. I replaced my roll roofing just after I moved into my
house 35 years ago; I replaced it again about 10 years ago. Since
technology keeps improving, I guess I'll get 15 to 20 more years out
of it. Nowhere near 3 to 5 years.

Single sheet rubber is supposed to be even better but the problem is
that it costs about 3 times as much and is usually only done for large
commercial premises. The cost is in the labor and transportation. It's
all special order and lifting it to the top of a building (even 4
stories like mine) requires a crane. It also requires lots of skill
and experience to lay, not just a couple of day laborers.

Yep, I have a low slope 'shed roof' over my back porch. Did roll
roofing some 10 or 15 yiears ago and it shows zero signs of damage.

I had "half-lap" on the shed dormer of my house in VT. The house was eight
years old when it started leaking. It was utterly gone. I had it replaced
with 30yr shingles over ice and water shield. Worked great.

Of course if one doesn't apply it correctly...

....and only you know how to do that, right?

Never again!

"TomR" wrote in :

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14'
x 17') with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the
existing roll roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it
using roll roofing. I have a contractor friend who can do the work
and who has done regular asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But,
he has not done roll roofing and he and I are not quite clear on a few
of the details on how roll roofing is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up
with instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is
done. Here is one link that I found:

http://gaproofinginc.com/pdfs/apps/app_roll_roofing.pdf .

My friend was thinking of doing the tear-off, then putting down tar
paper (felt), and then the roll roofing on top of that. The above
link shows the roll roofing going directly on the plywood decking with
no tar paper/felt underneath. Is either way okay? Or, is one method
better than the other?

For sealing the laps where the roll roofing overlaps itself, I have
seen a number of different terms mentioned for which product to use to
do that. I have seen "lap cement", "roof cement", "roof adhesive",
"asphalt plastic cement", etc. When I go into Home Depot, I see a
bunch of different products that all seem similar but I don't know
which one to pick.

So, one question I have is, if I buy regular roll roofing at Home
Depot, what product should I buy to seal where the roll roofing
overlaps? -- "lap cement", "roof cement", something else?. If you
happen to know the exact Home Depot product name, that would been even
better so I get the right product.

http://www.karnakcorp.com/16.aspx


Also, we were planning on using the "Application Parallel To The
Eaves" and "Concealed Nail Method" described on the above link. If we
do it as shown in the link -- without any tar paper/felt -- would
there be any advantage to also just gluing down the whole width of the
roll roofing to the plywood deck (in addition to the concealed
nailing), rather than just "gluing"/sealing the overlaps? If so, what
product would we use to adhere the entire width of the roll roofing to
the bare wood deck? -- lap cement; something else?

Any suggestions or links to good instructions or a good YouTube how-to
video would be appreciated.

Thanks.



See inserted link above.
Available at lumber yard.

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
"TomR" wrote in :

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14'
x 17') with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the
existing roll roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it
using roll roofing. I have a contractor friend who can do the work
and who has done regular asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But,
he has not done roll roofing and he and I are not quite clear on a few
of the details on how roll roofing is done.

For sealing the laps where the roll roofing overlaps itself, I have
seen a number of different terms mentioned for which product to use to
do that. I have seen "lap cement", "roof cement", "roof adhesive",
"asphalt plastic cement", etc. When I go into Home Depot, I see a
bunch of different products that all seem similar but I don't know
which one to pick.

So, one question I have is, if I buy regular roll roofing at Home
Depot, what product should I buy to seal where the roll roofing
overlaps? -- "lap cement", "roof cement", something else?. If you
happen to know the exact Home Depot product name, that would been even
better so I get the right product.

http://www.karnakcorp.com/16.aspx


See inserted link above.
Available at lumber yard.

Thanks. That's exactly what we ended up getting. We bought it at Home
Depot earlier today. We had been to both Lowes and Home Depot.

The roll roofing sold at Lowes had instructions on the package. Those
instructions were a little ambiguous or hard to follow regarding what to
use, but they did seem to say to use lap cement for the overlaps. However,
the Lowes that we were at didn't sell any lap cement.

The roll roofing sold at Home Depot had instructions that were clear, and
those instructions said to use lap cement. And, Home Depot had lap cement
so that's what we bought.

While searching, we also found that Lowes sells roofing adhesive, and the
instructions on the can said to use that to adhere the roll roofing to the
roof decking (if we were going to use an adhesive in addition to the
concealed nailing technique). We decided to not use any roofing adhesive to
attach the roll roofing to the roof deck and will just use the concealed
nailing and lap cement for sealing the overlaps. And, we decided to not use
any tar paper/felt under the roll roofing.

Thanks again.

On Monday, July 23, 2012 at 10:58:13 AM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

http://gaproofinginc.com/pdfs/apps/app_roll_roofing.pdf .

My friend was thinking of doing the tear-off, then putting down tar paper
(felt), and then the roll roofing on top of that. The above link shows the
roll roofing going directly on the plywood decking with no tar paper/felt
underneath. Is either way okay? Or, is one method better than the other?

For sealing the laps where the roll roofing overlaps itself, I have seen a
number of different terms mentioned for which product to use to do that. I
have seen "lap cement", "roof cement", "roof adhesive", "asphalt plastic
cement", etc. When I go into Home Depot, I see a bunch of different
products that all seem similar but I don't know which one to pick.

So, one question I have is, if I buy regular roll roofing at Home Depot,
what product should I buy to seal where the roll roofing overlaps? -- "lap
cement", "roof cement", something else?. If you happen to know the exact
Home Depot product name, that would been even better so I get the right
product.

Also, we were planning on using the "Application Parallel To The Eaves" and
"Concealed Nail Method" described on the above link. If we do it as shown
in the link -- without any tar paper/felt -- would there be any advantage to
also just gluing down the whole width of the roll roofing to the plywood
deck (in addition to the concealed nailing), rather than just
"gluing"/sealing the overlaps? If so, what product would we use to adhere
the entire width of the roll roofing to the bare wood deck? -- lap cement;
something else?

Any suggestions or links to good instructions or a good YouTube how-to video
would be appreciated.

Thanks.



No and I don't mean to hijack your question here but I've got 2
questions of my own that come to mind for you. Is this the same thing
they do on many residential roof tops in NYC as it sounds similar?
2nd, why do you want this instead of the shingled roof? I'm sure you
have your reasons, just curious.

I live in Salt Lake City. My garage roof has rolled roofing on it now. It does not leak. If I were to replace it, I'd use asphalt shingles. However, Allstate wants to cancel my home owners policy because of rolled roofing. Are they serious?

On Wed, 17 May 2017 06:28:42 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, July 23, 2012 at 10:58:13 AM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 12:24:58 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I have a small roof area over a garage that I am thinking of having
re-roofed with roll roofing. It is a small flat roof area (about 14' x 17')
with a low slope (about 3/12). The plan is to tear off the existing roll
roofing down to the plywood deck, and then re-roof it using roll roofing. I
have a contractor friend who can do the work and who has done regular
asphalt shingle roofs etc. in the past. But, he has not done roll roofing
and he and I are not quite clear on a few of the details on how roll roofing
is done.

I've been doing Internet searches and I can't quite seem to come up with
instructions that are clear about exactly how roll roofing is done. Here is
one link that I found:

http://gaproofinginc.com/pdfs/apps/app_roll_roofing.pdf .

My friend was thinking of doing the tear-off, then putting down tar paper
(felt), and then the roll roofing on top of that. The above link shows the
roll roofing going directly on the plywood decking with no tar paper/felt
underneath. Is either way okay? Or, is one method better than the other?

For sealing the laps where the roll roofing overlaps itself, I have seen a
number of different terms mentioned for which product to use to do that. I
have seen "lap cement", "roof cement", "roof adhesive", "asphalt plastic
cement", etc. When I go into Home Depot, I see a bunch of different
products that all seem similar but I don't know which one to pick.

So, one question I have is, if I buy regular roll roofing at Home Depot,
what product should I buy to seal where the roll roofing overlaps? -- "lap
cement", "roof cement", something else?. If you happen to know the exact
Home Depot product name, that would been even better so I get the right
product.

Also, we were planning on using the "Application Parallel To The Eaves" and
"Concealed Nail Method" described on the above link. If we do it as shown
in the link -- without any tar paper/felt -- would there be any advantage to
also just gluing down the whole width of the roll roofing to the plywood
deck (in addition to the concealed nailing), rather than just
"gluing"/sealing the overlaps? If so, what product would we use to adhere
the entire width of the roll roofing to the bare wood deck? -- lap cement;
something else?

Any suggestions or links to good instructions or a good YouTube how-to video
would be appreciated.

Thanks.



No and I don't mean to hijack your question here but I've got 2
questions of my own that come to mind for you. Is this the same thing
they do on many residential roof tops in NYC as it sounds similar?
2nd, why do you want this instead of the shingled roof? I'm sure you
have your reasons, just curious.

I live in Salt Lake City. My garage roof has rolled roofing on it now. It does not leak. If I were to replace it, I'd use asphalt shingles. However, Allstate wants to cancel my home owners policy because of rolled roofing. Are they serious?

Rolled roofing for flat roofs, in some jurisdictions, is not code
compliant. Modified bitumen would be a good alternative. This could
be why Allstate wants to cancel.

Here is a little info on the topic.

http://bit.ly/2qrxU5a