Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. But I don't know much about
HVAC units. There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc.

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

On Sunday, June 17, 2012 4:04:05 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. But I don't know much about
HVAC units. There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc.

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

I’m confused: You say that you “turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost nothing there”
Why would you expect to find any voltage if you say you turned it off?

You do realize that federal law requires EPA certificate to measure the
"spigots"? Fine, imprisonment, all that happy stuff if you do.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. But I don't know much about
HVAC units. There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc.

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

Robert Macy wrote:

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump
sitting on some square beside the building.

Looks like you'll have to go into your attic to fix it.

(again - the stupidity of putting even part of your hvac system in the
attic !)

On Jun 17, 7:46*pm, wrote:
On Sunday, June 17, 2012 4:04:05 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. *There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. *But I don't know much about
HVAC units. *There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc.

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

I’m confused: You say that you “turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost nothing there”
Why would you expect to find any voltage if you say you turned it off?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree. There should be 240V coming in to one side of the relay/
contactor
with the power turned on.
And there should be 240V on the load side of the contactor with the
power on and the
relay energized. If he's OK with safely measuring that, then I would
do that. If the
power hum is coming from the contactor when the thermostat turns it
on, that's
normal. Could also verify that the contactor pulls in by listening to
it while
someone else activates the thermostat. Just be aware that most
thermostats
have a 5 min lockout, where if it's been activated, then turned off,
it won't turn
on again for 5 mins to protect the compressor.

On Jun 18, 7:35*am, "
wrote:
On Jun 17, 7:46*pm, wrote:





On Sunday, June 17, 2012 4:04:05 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. *There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. *But I don't know much about
HVAC units. *There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc..

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

I’m confused: You say that you “turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost nothing there”
Why would you expect to find any voltage if you say you turned it off?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree. * There should be 240V coming in to one side of the relay/
contactor
with the power turned on.
And there should be 240V on the load side of the contactor with the
power on and the
relay energized. *If he's OK with safely measuring that, then I would
do that. * If the
power hum is coming from the contactor when the thermostat turns it
on, that's
normal. *Could also verify that the contactor pulls in by listening to
it while
someone else activates the thermostat. *Just be aware that most
thermostats
have a 5 min lockout, where if it's been activated, then turned off,
it won't turn
on again for 5 mins to protect the compressor.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Has anyine thought about a blown fuse in either side ot the 230V
line??? When my outside/compressor unit blows a fuse, depending on
which side of the 230V line blows, the 24V relay operates, but the
compressor does not come on, and depending on which side of the 230V
lines is blown, the fan which operates on 115V may not come on either.

On Jun 17, 4:46*pm, wrote:
On Sunday, June 17, 2012 4:04:05 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. *There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. *But I don't know much about
HVAC units. *There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc.

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

I’m confused: You say that you “turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost nothing there”
Why would you expect to find any voltage if you say you turned it off?

My thinking: the 24 Vac coil should have been activated, reading the
voltage at the coil should have seen it try to turn on. The 24 Vac is
supplied from the attic unit comes in under different breaker. The
220Vac is to supply the 'husky' stuff.

On Jun 17, 5:06*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
You do realize that federal law requires EPA certificate to measure the
"spigots"? Fine, imprisonment, all that happy stuff if you do.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.



Did NOT know that! I guess that explains why the high security plastic
covers on those spigots. They look just like the ones on your car.

On Jun 18, 4:55*am, Home Guy wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump
sitting on some square beside the building.

Looks like you'll have to go into your attic to fix it.

(again - the stupidity of putting even part of your hvac system in the
attic !)

huh?

On Jun 18, 5:35*am, "
wrote:
On Jun 17, 7:46*pm, wrote:





On Sunday, June 17, 2012 4:04:05 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. *There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. *But I don't know much about
HVAC units. *There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc..

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

I’m confused: You say that you “turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost nothing there”
Why would you expect to find any voltage if you say you turned it off?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree. * There should be 240V coming in to one side of the relay/
contactor
with the power turned on.
And there should be 240V on the load side of the contactor with the
power on and the
relay energized. *If he's OK with safely measuring that, then I would
do that. * If the
power hum is coming from the contactor when the thermostat turns it
on, that's
normal. *Could also verify that the contactor pulls in by listening to
it while
someone else activates the thermostat. *Just be aware that most
thermostats
have a 5 min lockout, where if it's been activated, then turned off,
it won't turn
on again for 5 mins to protect the compressor.

Thanks, about the timing. Knew there should be some type of lock out,
didn't know how long. I tried things over several hour period with at
least half hour between tests to try and make certain didn't trip over
any of these 'lockouts'

On Jun 18, 6:18*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Jun 18, 7:35*am, "
wrote:





On Jun 17, 7:46*pm, wrote:

On Sunday, June 17, 2012 4:04:05 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. *There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. *But I don't know much about
HVAC units. *There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc.

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

I’m confused: You say that you “turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost nothing there”
Why would you expect to find any voltage if you say you turned it off?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree. * There should be 240V coming in to one side of the relay/
contactor
with the power turned on.
And there should be 240V on the load side of the contactor with the
power on and the
relay energized. *If he's OK with safely measuring that, then I would
do that. * If the
power hum is coming from the contactor when the thermostat turns it
on, that's
normal. *Could also verify that the contactor pulls in by listening to
it while
someone else activates the thermostat. *Just be aware that most
thermostats
have a 5 min lockout, where if it's been activated, then turned off,
it won't turn
on again for 5 mins to protect the compressor.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Has anyine thought about a blown fuse in either side ot the 230V
line??? *When my outside/compressor unit blows a fuse, depending on
which side of the 230V line blows, the 24V relay operates, but the
compressor does not come on, and depending on which side of the 230V
lines is blown, the fan which operates on 115V may not come on either.

The breaker for the 220Vac 30A to this AC Heat Pump has never gone
off. One of the operating units makes the breaker super hot so I know
there's current when they're working. This one has absolutely nothing
going on.

The Air handler in the attic has 220Vac 20A to it, and the fan
activates normally.

What caught my attention in the outside unit is the presence of
mechanical relays down inside. I've always suspected the reliability
of relays. sticking off sticking on something always not working
right. So I applied the standard TV repair technique. 'Gently' shifted
it around, NOT! no indication of any change so must be something more
wrong there.

On Jun 18, 10:02*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On Jun 18, 4:55*am, Home Guy wrote:

Robert Macy wrote:
In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump
sitting on some square beside the building.

Looks like you'll have to go into your attic to fix it.

(again - the stupidity of putting even part of your hvac system in the
attic !)

huh?

It's a homelessguy thing. Just ignore him.

On Jun 18, 10:00*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On Jun 17, 4:46*pm, wrote:





On Sunday, June 17, 2012 4:04:05 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. *There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. *But I don't know much about
HVAC units. *There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc..

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

I’m confused: You say that you “turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost nothing there”
Why would you expect to find any voltage if you say you turned it off?

My thinking: the 24 Vac coil should have been activated, reading the
voltage at the coil should have seen it try to turn on. *The 24 Vac is
supplied from the attic unit comes in under different breaker. The
220Vac is to supply the 'husky' stuff.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You verified that you have 24V at the contactor relay.
See if you have 240V on the load side of the contactor relay with
thermostat calling for cooling. If you do, then it's something
with the compressor. If you don't then work your way back
up the circuit.

Also, haven't worked on one of these in a while, but it seems to
me the fan in the outside unit should be running even if the
compressor isn't starting? Anyone?

On Jun 18, 10:10*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On Jun 18, 6:18*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:





On Jun 18, 7:35*am, "
wrote:

On Jun 17, 7:46*pm, wrote:

On Sunday, June 17, 2012 4:04:05 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. *There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. *But I don't know much about
HVAC units. *There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc.

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

I’m confused: You say that you “turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost nothing there”
Why would you expect to find any voltage if you say you turned it off?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree. * There should be 240V coming in to one side of the relay/
contactor
with the power turned on.
And there should be 240V on the load side of the contactor with the
power on and the
relay energized. *If he's OK with safely measuring that, then I would
do that. * If the
power hum is coming from the contactor when the thermostat turns it
on, that's
normal. *Could also verify that the contactor pulls in by listening to
it while
someone else activates the thermostat. *Just be aware that most
thermostats
have a 5 min lockout, where if it's been activated, then turned off,
it won't turn
on again for 5 mins to protect the compressor.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Has anyine thought about a blown fuse in either side ot the 230V
line??? *When my outside/compressor unit blows a fuse, depending on
which side of the 230V line blows, the 24V relay operates, but the
compressor does not come on, and depending on which side of the 230V
lines is blown, the fan which operates on 115V may not come on either.

The breaker for the 220Vac 30A to this AC Heat Pump has never gone
off. *One of the operating units makes the breaker super hot so I know
there's current when they're working.

Super hot breaker? That doesn't sound right. I'd be checking for
a loose/corroded connection at the breaker. Or possibly a bad
breaker.

Phone book: Air Conditioning systems, service and repair.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

They act a lot like car valve stems. Different size, though.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...

Did NOT know that! I guess that explains why the high security plastic
covers on those spigots. They look just like the ones on your car.

On Jun 18, 7:18*am, "
wrote:
On Jun 18, 10:00*am, Robert Macy wrote:





On Jun 17, 4:46*pm, wrote:

On Sunday, June 17, 2012 4:04:05 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:
Typical!

In AZ we have the Air Handler in the attic and the Heat Pump sitting
on some square beside the building.

Shut off the AC last winter, and when went to turn it on this one
time, nothing happened. Well, except the fan came on, but no big power
hum, no fan blade inside the heat pump running.

Just as a check I measured all the voltages coming from the the
thermostat out through to the unit, and they all seem correct. OFF no
voltage, ON 26 Vac, yet unit doesn't come on. *There is a distinct
power hum, but nothing happens.

I turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around
the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost
nothing there. I expected the relay[whatever it's for] to be powered.
Perhaps that's the key.

Inside the access panel lid is atype of schematic. One interesting
item caught my attention 'low pressure switch' so I thought perhaps
the unit has lost its charge and the swicth won't come on to prevent
damage when it's not properly charged. *But I don't know much about
HVAC units. *There are three access spigots for measuring/filling I
think all right under the access panel.

Anybody out there with a bit of tutorial to help? Like what pressure
range should be there, what to do if the pressure is too low, etc etc.

I've got two other identical, operating units to do comparisons to,
but it still helps to know WHERE to look.

I’m confused: You say that you “turned OFF the 220Vac going to it, and measured the voltages around the huge relay right at the access and was disappointed to find almost nothing there”
Why would you expect to find any voltage if you say you turned it off?

My thinking: the 24 Vac coil should have been activated, reading the
voltage at the coil should have seen it try to turn on. *The 24 Vac is
supplied from the attic unit comes in under different breaker. The
220Vac is to supply the 'husky' stuff.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You verified that you have 24V at the contactor relay.
See if you have 240V on the load side of the contactor relay with
thermostat calling for cooling. *If you do, then it's something
with the compressor. *If you don't then work your way back
up the circuit.

Also, haven't worked on one of these in a while, but it seems to
me the fan in the outside unit should be running even if the
compressor isn't starting? * *Anyone?

PROBLEM SOLVED, maybe, probably!

There is a low pressure sensor switch in line with the compressor, so
*IF* there is low pressure, won't come on and destory the compressor.
Now for the down side...it appears the valve has been didlled with
causing the freon to completely leak out. This is an old system, a
heat pump, which requires 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at $50 a pound !!!!

The guy came by and put a little in, if it stays, then not a waste to
put more in, better to wait, just in case.

So now the question is Where to buy 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at less
than $50/pound !!

Most refrigeration wholesale houses. Bring your EPA card. You aren't likely
to find Freon, any more. I do haves some, a rather old 50 pound container.
You may be able to find Forane, Isotron, Genetron, or some other brand. I
havn't seen Freon for sale, in ages.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...

PROBLEM SOLVED, maybe, probably!

There is a low pressure sensor switch in line with the compressor, so
*IF* there is low pressure, won't come on and destory the compressor.
Now for the down side...it appears the valve has been didlled with
causing the freon to completely leak out. This is an old system, a
heat pump, which requires 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at $50 a pound !!!!

The guy came by and put a little in, if it stays, then not a waste to
put more in, better to wait, just in case.

So now the question is Where to buy 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at less
than $50/pound !!

On Jun 18, 9:21*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Most refrigeration wholesale houses. Bring your EPA card. You aren't likely
to find Freon, any more. I do haves some, a rather old 50 pound container..
You may be able to find Forane, Isotron, Genetron, or some other brand. I
havn't seen Freon for sale, in ages.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Robert Macy" wrote in message

...

PROBLEM SOLVED, maybe, probably!

There is a low pressure sensor switch in line with the compressor, so
*IF* there is low pressure, won't come on and destory the compressor.
Now for the down side...it appears the valve has been didlled with
causing the freon to completely leak out. This is an old system, a
heat pump, which requires 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at $50 a pound !!!!

The guy came by and put a little in, if it stays, then not a waste to
put more in, better to wait, just in case.

So now the question is Where to buy 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at less
than $50/pound !!

I've seen it being sold on Ebay for ~$10 a pound. Everything from
partial tanks to brand new ones. Of course as you pointed out, you're
supposed to have an EPA certificate to screw around with it. I'd
also check Craigslist for that and also guys who will do it cheaply.
Of course how good, honest, etc they are is a crap shoot.

On Jun 19, 5:41*am, "
wrote:
On Jun 18, 9:21*pm, "Stormin Mormon"





wrote:
Most refrigeration wholesale houses. Bring your EPA card. You aren't likely
to find Freon, any more. I do haves some, a rather old 50 pound container.
You may be able to find Forane, Isotron, Genetron, or some other brand. I
havn't seen Freon for sale, in ages.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Robert Macy" wrote in message

....

PROBLEM SOLVED, maybe, probably!

There is a low pressure sensor switch in line with the compressor, so
*IF* there is low pressure, won't come on and destory the compressor.
Now for the down side...it appears the valve has been didlled with
causing the freon to completely leak out. This is an old system, a
heat pump, which requires 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at $50 a pound !!!!

The guy came by and put a little in, if it stays, then not a waste to
put more in, better to wait, just in case.

So now the question is Where to buy 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at less
than $50/pound !!

I've seen it being sold on Ebay for *~$10 a pound. *Everything from
partial tanks to brand new ones. *Of course as you pointed out, you're
supposed to have an EPA certificate to screw around with it. *I'd
also check Craigslist for that and also guys who will do it cheaply.
Of course how good, honest, etc they are is a crap shoot.

Yes, saw the eBay. But I don't do a lot there and didn't understand
why they say 26 days left etc.

I hoped someone has had experience with someone and would recommend
buying from them.

I need to buy one of those 30 pound tanks [looks EXACTLY like the
green tank the guy brought out with him] just in case any of the other
systems leaks. or this one again.

I don't mind having a certified buy come out and put in the stuff,
check proper etc. that only costs $50-60 and after all that is a trip
plus an hour here. It's just the getting ripped off for $500 on ONE
single charge vs. getting 3 charges for $300. I would not have minded
cost plus 10%, but 5 times is insulting.

On Jun 19, 9:57*am, Robert Macy wrote:
On Jun 19, 5:41*am, "
wrote:





On Jun 18, 9:21*pm, "Stormin Mormon"

wrote:
Most refrigeration wholesale houses. Bring your EPA card. You aren't likely
to find Freon, any more. I do haves some, a rather old 50 pound container.
You may be able to find Forane, Isotron, Genetron, or some other brand. I
havn't seen Freon for sale, in ages.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Robert Macy" wrote in message

....

PROBLEM SOLVED, maybe, probably!

There is a low pressure sensor switch in line with the compressor, so
*IF* there is low pressure, won't come on and destory the compressor.
Now for the down side...it appears the valve has been didlled with
causing the freon to completely leak out. This is an old system, a
heat pump, which requires 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at $50 a pound !!!!

The guy came by and put a little in, if it stays, then not a waste to
put more in, better to wait, just in case.

So now the question is Where to buy 9.5 pounds of Freon 22 at less
than $50/pound !!

I've seen it being sold on Ebay for *~$10 a pound. *Everything from
partial tanks to brand new ones. *Of course as you pointed out, you're
supposed to have an EPA certificate to screw around with it. *I'd
also check Craigslist for that and also guys who will do it cheaply.
Of course how good, honest, etc they are is a crap shoot.

Yes, saw the eBay. But I don't do a lot there and didn't understand
why they say 26 days left etc.

I've done 100+ Ebay transactions and overall, I'm
very satisfied and have saved a LOT of money. I
had one bad experience and that was 10+ years ago.
When it was all over, I wound up short about $40.

The 26 days left is how long until that listing expires.
On Ebay you can either put something up as an
auction or a buy it now. With the auction, whoever
has the highest bid when it ends, wins it, provided
the reserve price, if any, has been exceeded.

Most important thing to look at is their feedback.
For anything where it's more than $20 or so, you
want to make sure they have a high feedback rating,
ie 98 or 99%+ and that they have a reasonable
number of transactions, preferably as seller, not
buyer.

Ebay has buyer protection for I think up to $200.
That doesn't cover shipping though. And read all
the listing, re condition, warranties, returns, etc.

wrote in message
...
The 26 days left is how long until that listing expires.
On Ebay you can either put something up as an
auction or a buy it now. With the auction, whoever
has the highest bid when it ends, wins it, provided
the reserve price, if any, has been exceeded.

Usually with listings that long, there is a 'buy it now' price where you can
buy it at that price and it will be shipped to you in a couple of days.

Most people list things for about a week if it is a real 'auction' and
longer if it is more of a 'sell' item.

About all the items I have bought on the 'buy it now' listing have arrived
in less than a week. Usually ships the next day and from then it is up to
the UPS/FEDEX or whoever to deliver.

Not always , but many times the 'buy it now' may have more than one of the
items. You may see somenting like '10 left" That means there are 10 items
left on the shelf and you can get from 1 to 10 of them. Also that means
that you have to pay whatever the price is for each item. Such as if you
want 3 of them, you pay 3 times the price shown. Depending on the item and
seller, you may get a deal on the shipping. Several small items can be sent
for the price of one item in some cases.