I have an ongoing chimney issue. My existing 10-foot above-the-roof-line
masonry chimney has to come down because it is in bad shape. I would like
to take it down to near the roof line (to maybe 1 or 2 feet above the roof
line), and then have the remaining masonry chimney relined and B-vent added
from the roof line up.

Someone suggested that I should try calling HVAC contractors and ask them to
just do the chimney relining etc. without changing or doing any work on my
heater. What they would need to do is add a flexible metal liner inside my
existing masonry chimney, connect it to a metal double-wall "Type B"
("B-vent") chimney vent coming out of the top of the chimney, add a B-vent
cap on top of that, and point/repair the 2-foot masonry chimney above the
roof line.

Is this something that HVAC companies could or would do -- including getting
the permit for the work, etc?

I know that I can just call some HVAC companies and ask, but I thought that
I would check here first. I never heard of HVAC companies doing this kind
of chimney work unless it was part of a job that involved repairing or
replacing a heater.

P.S. The existing heater and hot water heater are gas-fired units, so Type
B ("B-vent") should be fine.

P.P.S. I also have an ongoing issue regarding how high off the sloping roof
line the B-vent needs be according to code. Some people are stating that
the rule is that the top of the B-vent needs to be at least 2 feet above the
point where the B-vent is horizontally 10 feet away from the sloping roof.
But, for natural gas appliances (which I have), when using Type B vent less
than 12 inches (mine would be 6 inch B-vent), then the 2006 International
Residential Code for one and two-family dwellings (mine is a one-family),
Section G2427.6.4 on Page 382 would apply.

Here is the link to the 2006 International Residential Code for one and two
family dwellings:
http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newje..._Chapter24.pdf .

Check out Page 382.

In my case, with a 12/12 slope, In think my B-vent would only have to go up
about 4 or 5 feet from the roof line.

Is that correct?

On 5/3/2012 12:28 PM, TomR wrote:
I have an ongoing chimney issue. My existing 10-foot above-the-roof-line
masonry chimney has to come down because it is in bad shape. I would like
to take it down to near the roof line (to maybe 1 or 2 feet above the roof
line), and then have the remaining masonry chimney relined and B-vent added
from the roof line up.

Someone suggested that I should try calling HVAC contractors and ask them to
just do the chimney relining etc. without changing or doing any work on my
heater. What they would need to do is add a flexible metal liner inside my
existing masonry chimney, connect it to a metal double-wall "Type B"
("B-vent") chimney vent coming out of the top of the chimney, add a B-vent
cap on top of that, and point/repair the 2-foot masonry chimney above the
roof line.

Is this something that HVAC companies could or would do -- including getting
the permit for the work, etc?

probably depends upon where in the world you are, and how hungry they
are. we can't answer either.

I know that I can just call some HVAC companies and ask, but I thought that
I would check here first. I never heard of HVAC companies doing this kind
of chimney work unless it was part of a job that involved repairing or
replacing a heater.

P.S. The existing heater and hot water heater are gas-fired units, so Type
B ("B-vent") should be fine.

P.P.S. I also have an ongoing issue regarding how high off the sloping roof
line the B-vent needs be according to code. Some people are stating that
the rule is that the top of the B-vent needs to be at least 2 feet above the
point where the B-vent is horizontally 10 feet away from the sloping roof.
But, for natural gas appliances (which I have), when using Type B vent less
than 12 inches (mine would be 6 inch B-vent), then the 2006 International
Residential Code for one and two-family dwellings (mine is a one-family),
Section G2427.6.4 on Page 382 would apply.

Here is the link to the 2006 International Residential Code for one and two
family dwellings:
http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newje..._Chapter24.pdf .

Check out Page 382.

In my case, with a 12/12 slope, In think my B-vent would only have to go up
about 4 or 5 feet from the roof line.

Is that correct?

call your code inspector. again, we can't answer that. the permitting
agency is the only one who can.

On May 3, 3:44*pm, chaniarts wrote:
On 5/3/2012 12:28 PM, TomR wrote:





I have an ongoing chimney issue. *My existing 10-foot above-the-roof-line
masonry chimney has to come down because it is in bad shape. *I would like
to take it down to near the roof line (to maybe 1 or 2 feet above the roof
line), and then have the remaining masonry chimney relined and B-vent added
from the roof line up.

Someone suggested that I should try calling HVAC contractors and ask them to
just do the chimney relining etc. without changing or doing any work on my
heater. *What they would need to do is add a flexible metal liner inside my
existing masonry chimney, connect it to a metal double-wall "Type B"
("B-vent") chimney vent coming out of the top of the chimney, add a B-vent
cap on top of that, and point/repair the 2-foot masonry chimney above the
roof line.

Is this something that HVAC companies could or would do -- including getting
the permit for the work, etc?

probably depends upon where in the world you are, and how hungry they
are. we can't answer either.





I know that I can just call some HVAC companies and ask, but I thought that
I would check here first. *I never heard of HVAC companies doing this kind
of chimney work unless it was part of a job that involved repairing or
replacing a heater.

P.S. *The existing heater and hot water heater are gas-fired units, so Type
B ("B-vent") should be fine.

P.P.S. *I also have an ongoing issue regarding how high off the sloping roof
line the B-vent needs be according to code. *Some people are stating that
the rule is that the top of the B-vent needs to be at least 2 feet above the
point where the B-vent is horizontally 10 feet away from the sloping roof.
But, for natural gas appliances (which I have), when using Type B vent less
than 12 inches (mine would be 6 inch B-vent), then the 2006 International
Residential Code for one and two-family dwellings (mine is a one-family),
Section G2427.6.4 on Page 382 would apply.

Here is the link to the 2006 International Residential Code for one and two
family dwellings:
http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newje.../PDFs/NJ_Res_C.....

Check out Page 382.

In my case, with a 12/12 slope, In think my B-vent would only have to go up
about 4 or 5 feet from the roof line.

Is that correct?

call your code inspector. again, we can't answer that. the permitting
agency is the only one who can.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The latter question is the easiest. Just take some pics and
go over to the local code office. They will probably give you
the definitive answer. You can look at national codes all
day long and they are one source. But different places
are free to adopt or do what they want., Around here, NJ,
I've gone in to ask questions and they have been helpful.
Anything else is just speculation.

On May 3, 2:28*pm, "TomR" wrote:
I have an ongoing chimney issue. *My existing 10-foot above-the-roof-line
masonry chimney has to come down because it is in bad shape. *I would like
to take it down to near the roof line (to maybe 1 or 2 feet above the roof
line), and then have the remaining masonry chimney relined and B-vent added
from the roof line up.

Someone suggested that I should try calling HVAC contractors and ask them to
just do the chimney relining etc. without changing or doing any work on my
heater. *What they would need to do is add a flexible metal liner inside my
existing masonry chimney, connect it to a metal double-wall "Type B"
("B-vent") chimney vent coming out of the top of the chimney, add a B-vent
cap on top of that, and point/repair the 2-foot masonry chimney above the
roof line.

Is this something that HVAC companies could or would do -- including getting
the permit for the work, etc?

I know that I can just call some HVAC companies and ask, but I thought that
I would check here first. *I never heard of HVAC companies doing this kind
of chimney work unless it was part of a job that involved repairing or
replacing a heater.

P.S. *The existing heater and hot water heater are gas-fired units, so Type
B ("B-vent") should be fine.

P.P.S. *I also have an ongoing issue regarding how high off the sloping roof
line the B-vent needs be according to code. *Some people are stating that
the rule is that the top of the B-vent needs to be at least 2 feet above the
point where the B-vent is horizontally 10 feet away from the sloping roof..
But, for natural gas appliances (which I have), when using Type B vent less
than 12 inches (mine would be 6 inch B-vent), then the 2006 International
Residential Code for one and two-family dwellings (mine is a one-family),
Section G2427.6.4 on Page 382 would apply.

Here is the link to the 2006 International Residential Code for one and two
family dwellings:http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newje.../PDFs/NJ_Res_C....

Check out Page 382.

In my case, with a 12/12 slope, In think my B-vent would only have to go up
about 4 or 5 feet from the roof line.

Is that correct?

I watched a guy reline a chimney with a concrete sleeve, on one of the
home channels, a few weeks ago. It looked like a pretty slick process
that produced a good looking solution. But it also looked like it
involved some expertise and special equipment. I don't know that any
HVAC shop can do that. Shop around, or Craigs list might head you in
the right direction.

RonB

RonB wrote:
On May 3, 2:28 pm, "TomR" wrote:
I have an ongoing chimney issue. My existing 10-foot
above-the-roof-line
masonry chimney has to come down because it is in bad shape. I would
like
to take it down to near the roof line (to maybe 1 or 2 feet above
the roof
line), and then have the remaining masonry chimney relined and
B-vent added
from the roof line up.

Someone suggested that I should try calling HVAC contractors and ask
them to
just do the chimney relining etc. without changing or doing any work
on my
heater. What they would need to do is add a flexible metal liner
inside my
existing masonry chimney, connect it to a metal double-wall "Type B"
("B-vent") chimney vent coming out of the top of the chimney, add a
B-vent
cap on top of that, and point/repair the 2-foot masonry chimney
above the
roof line.

Is this something that HVAC companies could or would do -- including
getting
the permit for the work, etc?

I know that I can just call some HVAC companies and ask, but I
thought that
I would check here first. I never heard of HVAC companies doing this
kind
of chimney work unless it was part of a job that involved repairing
or
replacing a heater.

P.S. The existing heater and hot water heater are gas-fired units,
so Type
B ("B-vent") should be fine.

P.P.S. I also have an ongoing issue regarding how high off the
sloping roof
line the B-vent needs be according to code. Some people are stating
that
the rule is that the top of the B-vent needs to be at least 2 feet
above the
point where the B-vent is horizontally 10 feet away from the sloping
roof.
But, for natural gas appliances (which I have), when using Type B
vent less
than 12 inches (mine would be 6 inch B-vent), then the 2006
International
Residential Code for one and two-family dwellings (mine is a
one-family),
Section G2427.6.4 on Page 382 would apply.

Here is the link to the 2006 International Residential Code for one
and two
family
dwellings:http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newje.../PDFs/NJ_Res_C....

Check out Page 382.

In my case, with a 12/12 slope, In think my B-vent would only have
to go up
about 4 or 5 feet from the roof line.

Is that correct?

I watched a guy reline a chimney with a concrete sleeve, on one of the
home channels, a few weeks ago. It looked like a pretty slick process
that produced a good looking solution. But it also looked like it
involved some expertise and special equipment. I don't know that any
HVAC shop can do that. Shop around, or Craigs list might head you in
the right direction.

RonB

Interesting. One chimney company did say to me over the phone that if the
existing clay flue wasn't in too bad shape they could do what he called
"ceramic repair". He said that would be less expensive than adding a new
liner, but I have a hunch that he was comparing the price of "ceramic
repair" to the price of a stainless steel liner, not an aluminum liner. We
didn't get into exact prices over the phone.

After reading your post, I did a quick Google search and come up with this
link:

http://www.thermocreteusa.com/ceramic-flue-sealant.cfm .

Scroll down and click on their video to see what they mean.

Is that similar to what you saw on TV a few weeks ago?

Thanks.

Forget the chimney repair, tear it out.

If your gas appliances are using B-vent, they're probably old,
inefficient and wasting your hard-earned money.

Replace them with high-efficiency models that vent horizontally with pvc
pipe thru the side of your house. They'll actually pay for themselves in
a few years or so.

Moe Gasser wrote:
Forget the chimney repair, tear it out.

If your gas appliances are using B-vent, they're probably old,
inefficient and wasting your hard-earned money.

Replace them with high-efficiency models that vent horizontally with
pvc pipe thru the side of your house. They'll actually pay for
themselves in a few years or so.

Sorry, I forgot to include in my original post that, in this case, it would
not be practical for me to replace the existing heating system with a
high-efficiency direct-vent heater. The reason is that I have a one-pipe
steam radiator heating system now in a 3-story home. They don't make high
efficiency direct-vent steam heating systems. And, since mine is a one-pipe
(not a two-pipe) radiator steam heat system, it would not be practical to
convert the radiators to two-pipe hot water radiators.

On 5/4/2012 10:22 AM, TomR wrote:
RonB wrote:
On May 3, 2:28 pm, wrote:
I have an ongoing chimney issue. My existing 10-foot
above-the-roof-line
masonry chimney has to come down because it is in bad shape. I would
like
to take it down to near the roof line (to maybe 1 or 2 feet above
the roof
line), and then have the remaining masonry chimney relined and
B-vent added
from the roof line up.

Someone suggested that I should try calling HVAC contractors and ask
them to
just do the chimney relining etc. without changing or doing any work
on my
heater. What they would need to do is add a flexible metal liner
inside my
existing masonry chimney, connect it to a metal double-wall "Type B"
("B-vent") chimney vent coming out of the top of the chimney, add a
B-vent
cap on top of that, and point/repair the 2-foot masonry chimney
above the
roof line.

Is this something that HVAC companies could or would do -- including
getting
the permit for the work, etc?

I know that I can just call some HVAC companies and ask, but I
thought that
I would check here first. I never heard of HVAC companies doing this
kind
of chimney work unless it was part of a job that involved repairing
or
replacing a heater.

P.S. The existing heater and hot water heater are gas-fired units,
so Type
B ("B-vent") should be fine.

P.P.S. I also have an ongoing issue regarding how high off the
sloping roof
line the B-vent needs be according to code. Some people are stating
that
the rule is that the top of the B-vent needs to be at least 2 feet
above the
point where the B-vent is horizontally 10 feet away from the sloping
roof.
But, for natural gas appliances (which I have), when using Type B
vent less
than 12 inches (mine would be 6 inch B-vent), then the 2006
International
Residential Code for one and two-family dwellings (mine is a
one-family),
Section G2427.6.4 on Page 382 would apply.

Here is the link to the 2006 International Residential Code for one
and two
family
dwellings:http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/newje.../PDFs/NJ_Res_C....

Check out Page 382.

In my case, with a 12/12 slope, In think my B-vent would only have
to go up
about 4 or 5 feet from the roof line.

Is that correct?

I watched a guy reline a chimney with a concrete sleeve, on one of the
home channels, a few weeks ago. It looked like a pretty slick process
that produced a good looking solution. But it also looked like it
involved some expertise and special equipment. I don't know that any
HVAC shop can do that. Shop around, or Craigs list might head you in
the right direction.

RonB

Interesting. One chimney company did say to me over the phone that if the
existing clay flue wasn't in too bad shape they could do what he called
"ceramic repair". He said that would be less expensive than adding a new
liner, but I have a hunch that he was comparing the price of "ceramic
repair" to the price of a stainless steel liner, not an aluminum liner. We
didn't get into exact prices over the phone.

After reading your post, I did a quick Google search and come up with this
link:

http://www.thermocreteusa.com/ceramic-flue-sealant.cfm .

Scroll down and click on their video to see what they mean.

Is that similar to what you saw on TV a few weeks ago?

Thanks.




best just to drop in an aluminum or stainless liner and be done in less
time than it takes to post rhetoric here.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On May 4, 1:16*pm, "TomR" wrote:
Moe Gasser wrote:
Forget the chimney repair, tear it out.

If your gas appliances are using B-vent, they're probably old,
inefficient and wasting your hard-earned money.

Replace them with high-efficiency models that vent horizontally with
pvc pipe thru the side of your house. They'll actually pay for
themselves in a few years or so.

Sorry, I forgot to include in my original post that, in this case, it would
not be practical for me to replace the existing heating system with a
high-efficiency direct-vent heater. *The reason is that I have a one-pipe
steam radiator heating system now in a 3-story home. *They don't make high
efficiency direct-vent steam heating systems. *And, since mine is a one-pipe
(not a two-pipe) radiator steam heat system, it would not be practical to
convert the radiators to two-pipe hot water radiators.

so did you call a HVAC contractor for a free no cost no obligation
estimate? nearly all offer free estimates