Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 18,538
Default sweating copper

On Mon, 6 Feb 2012 14:33:26 -0800 (PST), Michael B
wrote:

On Feb 6, 4:22Â*pm, teabird wrote:
Hello,

I have some 1/2 inch type M copper pipe and 4 90* elbows that I'm
sweating together for practice. Â*I've cut some 8 inch pieces and
yesterday was able to solder one end of each ell to 2 tubes. Â*It took
a few extra tries but I was able to draw the solder into the joint
pretty well. There was alot of smoke created, white and brown. Â*I'm
using yellow canister (Map gas?), cleaning the joints with emery
cloth, flux and using lead free solder.

Today I can't seem to get the solder to draw in. Â*I've prepared the
joints as before and am attempting to create a square with the tubes
so this time the ell is connected to 2x 8 inch pieces. Â*I also notice
that even though the solder is eventually melting it is not drawing in
the joint, and when it hardens it has a yellow color to it.

Is the yellow color significant and does it indicate a problem with my
technique? Â*Can there be a noticable difference between yesterday and
today as relates to how quickly the joint heats up, as today I have 2x
the amount of tube to heat?

TIA,

Teabird


Many years ago, I was damn good at that. Overhead fittings,
valves, you name it. No leaks. But along came a remodel
job on my own bathroom, and I had insulated its walls with
Styrofoam. So I started checking around to see if there was
something else out there that would do the job without maybe
catching something on fire.

And I found Copper Bond.

Rated for NSF and NFPA

Prepare the surfaces, mix it in a bottle cap, put it on with Q-tip
sticks with the cotton cut off, pressurize about 15 minutes later,
and walk away.

I don't even know where my torch is any more, and haven't
felt the need to look.

Just mentioning.
hen, I was

The stuff works - and it works well IF you are meticulous with the
preparation. A fingerprint on the joint can cause a leak that doesn't
show up for a day or two.

Don't ask how I know. I ended up taking it apart and cleaning it all
up and soldering it. Never had a solder joint leak on me.

Where I can't solder because of flamible materials or no access I use
a "sharkbite"
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,946
Default sweating copper

wrote in
:

On Mon, 6 Feb 2012 14:33:26 -0800 (PST), Michael B
wrote:

On Feb 6, 4:22Â*pm, teabird wrote:
Hello,

I have some 1/2 inch type M copper pipe and 4 90* elbows that I'm
sweating together for practice. Â*I've cut some 8 inch pieces and
yesterday was able to solder one end of each ell to 2 tubes. Â*It
took a few extra tries but I was able to draw the solder into the
joint pretty well. There was alot of smoke created, white and brown.
Â*I'm using yellow canister (Map gas?), cleaning the joints with
emery cloth, flux and using lead free solder.

Today I can't seem to get the solder to draw in. Â*I've prepared the
joints as before and am attempting to create a square with the tubes
so this time the ell is connected to 2x 8 inch pieces. Â*I also
notice that even though the solder is eventually melting it is not
drawing in the joint, and when it hardens it has a yellow color to
it.

Is the yellow color significant and does it indicate a problem with
my technique? Â*Can there be a noticable difference between
yesterday and today as relates to how quickly the joint heats up, as
today I have 2x the amount of tube to heat?

TIA,

Teabird


Many years ago, I was damn good at that. Overhead fittings,
valves, you name it. No leaks. But along came a remodel
job on my own bathroom, and I had insulated its walls with
Styrofoam. So I started checking around to see if there was
something else out there that would do the job without maybe
catching something on fire.

And I found Copper Bond.

Rated for NSF and NFPA

Prepare the surfaces, mix it in a bottle cap, put it on with Q-tip
sticks with the cotton cut off, pressurize about 15 minutes later,
and walk away.

I don't even know where my torch is any more, and haven't
felt the need to look.

Just mentioning.
hen, I was

The stuff works - and it works well IF you are meticulous with the
preparation. A fingerprint on the joint can cause a leak that doesn't
show up for a day or two.


Hey, that's a nice touch after sealing up the wall.


Don't ask how I know. I ended up taking it apart and cleaning it all
up and soldering it. Never had a solder joint leak on me.

Where I can't solder because of flamible materials or no access I use
a "sharkbite"


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
sweating copper Limp Arbor Home Repair 3 February 7th 12 11:23 PM
sweating copper Red Green Home Repair 0 February 7th 12 11:08 PM
sweating copper bud-- Home Repair 0 February 7th 12 04:24 PM
sweating copper The Daring Dufas[_7_] Home Repair 0 February 7th 12 08:38 AM
Sweating Copper w/ O/A?? Proctologically Violated©® Metalworking 6 March 2nd 05 02:58 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:05 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"