Hi all,

I have a 240V fused disconnect that I would like to use on a 120V
lathe. The disconnect has holders for two cartridge fuses, one each
for the 2 hots of your normal 240V circuit. If I used it for my 120V
lathe I could either run hot AND the neutral thru separate fuses
(which I wonder whether is a good idea) OR I could just run the hot
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous. What would be best?
Consider also I get a lot of lightning. I thought maybe running
neutral thru the fuse would be extra protection if lightning came up
thru the neutral. (I'm running the equipment ground continuous of
course, not fused.)

On 1/29/2012 12:27 PM, wrote:
....
I have a 240V fused disconnect ...
...If ... used ... for ... 120V
... run the hot ...
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous.

....

The neutral may _not_ be fused by NEC so the question
lightning is moot (besides not being useful anyway).

--

On 1/29/2012 10:27 AM, wrote:
Hi all,

I have a 240V fused disconnect that I would like to use on a 120V
lathe. The disconnect has holders for two cartridge fuses, one each
for the 2 hots of your normal 240V circuit. If I used it for my 120V
lathe I could either run hot AND the neutral thru separate fuses
(which I wonder whether is a good idea) OR I could just run the hot
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous. What would be best?
Consider also I get a lot of lightning. I thought maybe running
neutral thru the fuse would be extra protection if lightning came up
thru the neutral. (I'm running the equipment ground continuous of
course, not fused.)
Change out the motor for a 240 unit or get a step-down transformer with
suitable capacity.

Paul

On 1/29/2012 1:27 PM, wrote:
Hi all,

I have a 240V fused disconnect that I would like to use on a 120V
lathe. The disconnect has holders for two cartridge fuses, one each
for the 2 hots of your normal 240V circuit. If I used it for my 120V
lathe I could either run hot AND the neutral thru separate fuses
(which I wonder whether is a good idea) OR I could just run the hot
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous. What would be best?
Consider also I get a lot of lightning. I thought maybe running
neutral thru the fuse would be extra protection if lightning came up
thru the neutral. (I'm running the equipment ground continuous of
course, not fused.)

Assuming you're using this disconnect because you have it laying around,
just fuse the hot leg.

wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I have a 240V fused disconnect that I would like to use on a 120V
lathe. The disconnect has holders for two cartridge fuses, one each
for the 2 hots of your normal 240V circuit. If I used it for my 120V
lathe I could either run hot AND the neutral thru separate fuses
(which I wonder whether is a good idea) OR I could just run the hot
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous. What would be best?
Consider also I get a lot of lightning. I thought maybe running
neutral thru the fuse would be extra protection if lightning came up
thru the neutral. (I'm running the equipment ground continuous of
course, not fused.)

As others have said, do not fuse the neutral. Its connection is never
broken by anything that does not disconnect the hot wire also.

Run the hot wire through the fuze and connect the neutral direct without
going through a switch on the disconnect.

If worried about lightning, put a plug on it and unplug when not in use.

On Sun, 29 Jan 2012 10:27:52 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi all,

I have a 240V fused disconnect that I would like to use on a 120V
lathe. The disconnect has holders for two cartridge fuses, one each
for the 2 hots of your normal 240V circuit. If I used it for my 120V
lathe I could either run hot AND the neutral thru separate fuses
(which I wonder whether is a good idea) OR I could just run the hot
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous. What would be best?
Consider also I get a lot of lightning. I thought maybe running
neutral thru the fuse would be extra protection if lightning came up
thru the neutral. (I'm running the equipment ground continuous of
course, not fused.)


Common practice is to wire a 220 cord to dual gang (square) utility
box and connect 2 duplex 115 outlets in the box, on connected to each
"line" and sharing the neutral. Gives you what the guys on the list
call an "edison circuit" or what we up here in Canada call a "split".

Plug the 220 appliance cord into the 220 plug and "Bob's your uncle".

Same can be done hard-wired, of course - but the plug-in adapter does
not require a permit or inspection and is legal for you to do in ANY
jurisdiction.
If the cartrige fuses are overfusing the downsteam wiring, install a
fuse or breaker in the "pigtail", using a bigger box.

On Sun, 29 Jan 2012 11:51:10 -0800, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 1/29/2012 10:27 AM, wrote:
Hi all,

I have a 240V fused disconnect that I would like to use on a 120V
lathe. The disconnect has holders for two cartridge fuses, one each
for the 2 hots of your normal 240V circuit. If I used it for my 120V
lathe I could either run hot AND the neutral thru separate fuses
(which I wonder whether is a good idea) OR I could just run the hot
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous. What would be best?
Consider also I get a lot of lightning. I thought maybe running
neutral thru the fuse would be extra protection if lightning came up
thru the neutral. (I'm running the equipment ground continuous of
course, not fused.)
Change out the motor for a 240 unit or get a step-down transformer with
suitable capacity.

Paul
Boy, THAT is a waste of effort and resources on an American 240/120
circuit.

On Sun, 29 Jan 2012 15:06:01 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I have a 240V fused disconnect that I would like to use on a 120V
lathe. The disconnect has holders for two cartridge fuses, one each
for the 2 hots of your normal 240V circuit. If I used it for my 120V
lathe I could either run hot AND the neutral thru separate fuses
(which I wonder whether is a good idea) OR I could just run the hot
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous. What would be best?
Consider also I get a lot of lightning. I thought maybe running
neutral thru the fuse would be extra protection if lightning came up
thru the neutral. (I'm running the equipment ground continuous of
course, not fused.)

As others have said, do not fuse the neutral. Its connection is never
broken by anything that does not disconnect the hot wire also.

Run the hot wire through the fuze and connect the neutral direct without
going through a switch on the disconnect.

If worried about lightning, put a plug on it and unplug when not in use.


Here I was ASSuming the 240 disconect was already connected -

If it is just a 240 disconnect sitting on the shelf and he wants to
use it as a disconnect for 120, it is a totally different situation.
Use one side (L1 or L2) and neutral and leave the opposite line
connection disconnected.

On Sun, 29 Jan 2012 11:51:10 -0800, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 1/29/2012 10:27 AM, wrote:
Hi all,

I have a 240V fused disconnect that I would like to use on a 120V
lathe. The disconnect has holders for two cartridge fuses, one each
for the 2 hots of your normal 240V circuit. If I used it for my 120V
lathe I could either run hot AND the neutral thru separate fuses
(which I wonder whether is a good idea) OR I could just run the hot
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous. What would be best?
Consider also I get a lot of lightning. I thought maybe running
neutral thru the fuse would be extra protection if lightning came up
thru the neutral. (I'm running the equipment ground continuous of
course, not fused.)
Change out the motor for a 240 unit or get a step-down transformer with
suitable capacity.

Paul

It never ceases to amaze me how some people can not read for
comprehension.........

To the OP, yes you can use this box without any problems, but only use
one fuse and only swtich the hot lead (should be the black wire). The
neutral (white wire) is continuous. Just wirenut the two white wires in
that box. The green ground wire is also continuous, but really should
be grounded to the box. There should be a ground screw in there to use,
and put both green wires to that screw (or pigtain a short piece of wire
from the box, and use a wirenut on all 3 wires).

Be sure to check the current (Amps) of the motor and use a suitable
gauge wire, and fuse accordingly. (Of course the wall outlet also needs
a breaker suitable to handle the lathe). If this is a common home
lathe, a 15A circuit should do the job, which would mean #14 gauge wire
for the power cord (or larger, which would mean a #12 wire) [The
smaller the number, the thicker the wire].

Fuses rarely do any good to stop lightning. Lightning rarely comes in
the neutral, since the neutral on the pole is connected to ground rods.
A lighting supressor would be more helpful. These can be purchased to
be wired into a breaker panel, and thus could be used on your tool, but
I'd put it right into your breaker panel for the whole home instead.

The only mistake I made in the original post is, I will attach the
equipment ground to the ground lugs on the disconnect box.

Yes, this is a box I have kicking around. Lessons learned: do NOT
fuse neutral, fuses don't mitigate lightning.

My original problem was, the lathe does not have an on/off switch,
just a plug. I dislike leaving it plugged in all the time because of
lightning, and I want a more convenient way to switch it on.
Thought this was the proper way to do it, except with a 120V
disconnect, which is harder to find. Maybe this is just a waste of
effort like one of the posters said. How about just wiring the
lathe on a residential 20A wall switch?

On Jan 30, 10:43*am, wrote:
The only mistake I made in the original post is, I will attach the
equipment ground to the ground lugs on the disconnect box.

Yes, this is a box I have kicking around. * Lessons learned: do NOT
fuse neutral, fuses don't mitigate lightning.

My original problem was, the lathe does not have an on/off switch,
just a plug. * I dislike leaving it plugged in all the time because of
lightning, and I want a more convenient way to switch it on.
Thought this was the proper way to do it, except with a 120V
disconnect, which is harder to find. * Maybe this is just a waste of
effort like one of the posters said. * How about just wiring the
lathe on a residential 20A wall switch?

The motor is 2hp BTW.

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in news:dYWdnRcm-
:


wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I have a 240V fused disconnect that I would like to use on a 120V
lathe. The disconnect has holders for two cartridge fuses, one each
for the 2 hots of your normal 240V circuit. If I used it for my 120V
lathe I could either run hot AND the neutral thru separate fuses
(which I wonder whether is a good idea) OR I could just run the hot
thru a fuse and leave the neutral continuous. What would be best?
Consider also I get a lot of lightning. I thought maybe running
neutral thru the fuse would be extra protection if lightning came up
thru the neutral. (I'm running the equipment ground continuous of
course, not fused.)

As others have said, do not fuse the neutral. Its connection is never
broken by anything that does not disconnect the hot wire also.

Run the hot wire through the fuze and connect the neutral direct without
going through a switch on the disconnect.

If worried about lightning, put a plug on it and unplug when not in use.





Heh,fuse the neutral,and if the neutral fuse fails but not the hot
fuse,then your powered device becomes HOT,with NO indication of it.
Touch it and any ground,and you fry.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 07:44:36 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Jan 30, 10:43Â*am, wrote:
The only mistake I made in the original post is, I will attach the
equipment ground to the ground lugs on the disconnect box.

Yes, this is a box I have kicking around. Â* Lessons learned: do NOT
fuse neutral, fuses don't mitigate lightning.

My original problem was, the lathe does not have an on/off switch,
just a plug. Â* I dislike leaving it plugged in all the time because of
lightning, and I want a more convenient way to switch it on.
Thought this was the proper way to do it, except with a 120V
disconnect, which is harder to find. Â* Maybe this is just a waste of
effort like one of the posters said. Â* How about just wiring the
lathe on a residential 20A wall switch?

The motor is 2hp BTW.
A 2HP 120 volt motor should REALLY be on a 20 amp circuit.

What kind of plug is on it? How big is this lathe? Wood lathe or
scre-cutting/machinist lathe?

On 1/30/2012 9:44 AM, wrote:
On Jan 30, 10:43 am, wrote:
The only mistake I made in the original post is, I will attach the
equipment ground to the ground lugs on the disconnect box.

Yes, this is a box I have kicking around. Lessons learned: do NOT
fuse neutral, fuses don't mitigate lightning.

My original problem was, the lathe does not have an on/off switch,
just a plug. I dislike leaving it plugged in all the time because of
lightning, and I want a more convenient way to switch it on.
Thought this was the proper way to do it, except with a 120V
disconnect, which is harder to find. Maybe this is just a waste of
effort like one of the posters said. How about just wiring the
lathe on a residential 20A wall switch?

The motor is 2hp BTW.

It would be pretty likely a 2 hp motor would be dual-voltage.

2 hp @120V would possibly be drawing 22-25 A which is marginal at best
on 20 A circuit.

I'd suggest the better thing is to

a) Convert it to 240 V (halving the current draw), and

b) Add a switch to the device itself.

As for the lightning concern, the likelihood of it being the target of
anything bad is quite low in comparison to things like electronics, a
fridge in restart mode at the time, etc., etc., etc., ... A plain ol'
'lectric motor on its own is pretty robust.

--

On Jan 30, 3:31*pm, dpb wrote:
On 1/30/2012 9:44 AM, wrote:





On Jan 30, 10:43 am, wrote:
The only mistake I made in the original post is, I will attach the
equipment ground to the ground lugs on the disconnect box.

Yes, this is a box I have kicking around. * Lessons learned: do NOT
fuse neutral, fuses don't mitigate lightning.

My original problem was, the lathe does not have an on/off switch,
just a plug. * I dislike leaving it plugged in all the time because of
lightning, and I want a more convenient way to switch it on.
Thought this was the proper way to do it, except with a 120V
disconnect, which is harder to find. * Maybe this is just a waste of
effort like one of the posters said. * How about just wiring the
lathe on a residential 20A wall switch?

The motor is 2hp BTW.

It would be pretty likely a 2 hp motor would be dual-voltage.

2 hp @120V would possibly be drawing 22-25 A which is marginal at best
on 20 A circuit.

I'd suggest the better thing is to

a) Convert it to 240 V (halving the current draw), and

b) Add a switch to the device itself.

Whoa! You're intending to switch it with a disconnect?

We did that in the plant where I worked, long story, had to do with
zero energy state regulations. Big mistake. Disconnects are NOT
designed for that kind of service and they will fail, sometimes
spectacularly.

On Mon, 30 Jan 2012 14:01:03 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

On Jan 30, 3:31Â*pm, dpb wrote:
On 1/30/2012 9:44 AM, wrote:





On Jan 30, 10:43 am, wrote:
The only mistake I made in the original post is, I will attach the
equipment ground to the ground lugs on the disconnect box.

Yes, this is a box I have kicking around. Â* Lessons learned: do NOT
fuse neutral, fuses don't mitigate lightning.

My original problem was, the lathe does not have an on/off switch,
just a plug. Â* I dislike leaving it plugged in all the time because of
lightning, and I want a more convenient way to switch it on.
Thought this was the proper way to do it, except with a 120V
disconnect, which is harder to find. Â* Maybe this is just a waste of
effort like one of the posters said. Â* How about just wiring the
lathe on a residential 20A wall switch?

The motor is 2hp BTW.

It would be pretty likely a 2 hp motor would be dual-voltage.

2 hp @120V would possibly be drawing 22-25 A which is marginal at best
on 20 A circuit.

I'd suggest the better thing is to

a) Convert it to 240 V (halving the current draw), and

b) Add a switch to the device itself.

Whoa! You're intending to switch it with a disconnect?

We did that in the plant where I worked, long story, had to do with
zero energy state regulations. Big mistake. Disconnects are NOT
designed for that kind of service and they will fail, sometimes
spectacularly.
It is done a LOT. Not for high currect stuff, but up to 30 amps if it
is a snap action disconnect. A straight old knife switch is not so
good for that application.

My lathe has a drum reversing switch with center off, as well as a
normal toggle style switch.

In homedepot it's less than 5$ so connect hot to disconnect and netral and ground do not. Later on when you switch to 240v solar panels connect L2 to that cheap box. ))