Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
New tub install question
I am re-doing a bathroom and I am about to install a new steel tub (someone
else is doing the actual work, but it is easier to just write "I"). The walls are ripped out down to the studs, and I will be using 1/2-inch cement backer board where the ceramic tile tub surround will be going. My question is about where the tub goes in relation to the cement backer board and the wall studs. Around the 3 sides of the tub where the ceramic tile tub surround will go, there is a 1-inch "tile flange" on the tub ( http://bootz.com/Downloads/Alohawholesale.pdf ). Option 1): If I mount the tub up directly up against the studs, and then apply 1/2-inch cement backer board from the top of the tile flange up, then the cement backer board will be sticking out (from the wall) about 3/8-inch past the approx. 1/8-inch thick tile flange. Then, if I bring the ceramic tile down past the bottom edge of the backer board to close to the horizontal top of the actual tub, there will be a gap of about 3/8-inch behind the tile to the tile flange. Is that how the install is typically done? Option 2): Or, I could apply the 1/2-inch cement backer board to the studs first, and have the backer board come down behind the 1-inch tile flange, and then mount the tub up against the cement backer board instead of directly on the studs. But, if I do that, when I go to do the ceramic tile, the tile that goes over the 1-inch tile flange on the tub will be sticking out due to the approx. 1/8-inch thick tile flange. So, that doesn't seem like it would work. Option 3): Pad out the studs about 3/8-inch; mount the tub against the padded out studs; then bring the cement backer board down to the top of the tile flange on the tub. That will leave the cement backer board about even (flush) with the 1-inch tub tile flange. Then tile down past the top of the tile flange to close to the horizontal top of the tub (which will leave no space behind the tile where it overhangs the tile flange); and then just caulk the gap between the bottom of the ceramic tile and the tub. Can anyone tell me the "correct" way to do this? -- assuming that there is one correct way. Is it Option 1, Option 2, or Option 3; or is there some other way that is the correct way to do this? Thanks. |
#2
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
New tub install question
P.S. (by the OP):
Or, Option 4?): Mount the tub directly up against the studs; then bring the cement backer board down over the 1-inch tile flange on the tub (leaving a small gap above the top of the tub); and then tile over the cement backer board (leaving the same gap at the bottom of the backer board); then caulk where the gap is. "Ron" wrote in message ... I am re-doing a bathroom and I am about to install a new steel tub (someone else is doing the actual work, but it is easier to just write "I"). The walls are ripped out down to the studs, and I will be using 1/2-inch cement backer board where the ceramic tile tub surround will be going. My question is about where the tub goes in relation to the cement backer board and the wall studs. Around the 3 sides of the tub where the ceramic tile tub surround will go, there is a 1-inch "tile flange" on the tub ( http://bootz.com/Downloads/Alohawholesale.pdf ). Option 1): If I mount the tub up directly up against the studs, and then apply 1/2-inch cement backer board from the top of the tile flange up, then the cement backer board will be sticking out (from the wall) about 3/8-inch past the approx. 1/8-inch thick tile flange. Then, if I bring the ceramic tile down past the bottom edge of the backer board to close to the horizontal top of the actual tub, there will be a gap of about 3/8-inch behind the tile to the tile flange. Is that how the install is typically done? Option 2): Or, I could apply the 1/2-inch cement backer board to the studs first, and have the backer board come down behind the 1-inch tile flange, and then mount the tub up against the cement backer board instead of directly on the studs. But, if I do that, when I go to do the ceramic tile, the tile that goes over the 1-inch tile flange on the tub will be sticking out due to the approx. 1/8-inch thick tile flange. So, that doesn't seem like it would work. Option 3): Pad out the studs about 3/8-inch; mount the tub against the padded out studs; then bring the cement backer board down to the top of the tile flange on the tub. That will leave the cement backer board about even (flush) with the 1-inch tub tile flange. Then tile down past the top of the tile flange to close to the horizontal top of the tub (which will leave no space behind the tile where it overhangs the tile flange); and then just caulk the gap between the bottom of the ceramic tile and the tub. Can anyone tell me the "correct" way to do this? -- assuming that there is one correct way. Is it Option 1, Option 2, or Option 3; or is there some other way that is the correct way to do this? Thanks. |
#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
New tub install question
On Dec 22, 9:59*pm, "Ron" wrote:
P.S. (by the OP): Or, Option 4?): *Mount the tub directly up against the studs; then bring the cement backer board down over the 1-inch tile flange on the tub (leaving a small gap above the top of the tub); and then tile over the cement backer board (leaving the same gap at the bottom of the backer board); then caulk where the gap is. "Ron" wrote in message ... I am re-doing a bathroom and I am about to install a new steel tub (someone else is doing the actual work, but it is easier to just write "I"). *The walls are ripped out down to the studs, and I will be using 1/2-inch cement backer board where the ceramic tile tub surround will be going. My question is about where the tub goes in relation to the cement backer board and the wall studs. *Around the 3 sides of the tub where the ceramic tile tub surround will go, there is a 1-inch "tile flange" on the tub ( http://bootz.com/Downloads/Alohawholesale.pdf). Option 1): If I mount the tub up directly up against the studs, and then apply 1/2-inch cement backer board from the top of the tile flange up, then the cement backer board will be sticking out (from the wall) about 3/8-inch past the approx. 1/8-inch thick tile flange. *Then, if I bring the ceramic tile down past the bottom edge of the backer board to close to the horizontal top of the actual tub, there will be a gap of about 3/8-inch behind the tile to the tile flange. Is that how the install is typically done? Option 2): *Or, I could apply the 1/2-inch cement backer board to the studs first, and have the backer board come down behind the 1-inch tile flange, and then mount the tub up against the cement backer board instead of directly on the studs. *But, if I do that, when I go to do the ceramic tile, the tile that goes over the 1-inch tile flange on the tub will be sticking out due to the approx. 1/8-inch thick tile flange. So, that doesn't seem like it would work. Option 3): *Pad out the studs about 3/8-inch; mount the tub against the padded out studs; then bring the cement backer board down to the top of the tile flange on the tub. *That will leave the cement backer board about even (flush) with the 1-inch tub tile flange. *Then tile down past the top of the tile flange to close to the horizontal top of the tub (which will leave no space behind the tile where it overhangs the tile flange); and then just caulk the gap between the bottom of the ceramic tile and the tub. Can anyone tell me the "correct" way to do this? -- assuming that there is one correct way. *Is it Option 1, Option 2, or Option 3; or is there some other way that is the correct way to do this? Thanks. Sure hope you've insulated to the outside wall. I prefer to use styrofoam, in about three thicknesses so that it comes perfectly even with the edge of the studs. That way, cuts don't have to be perfect, with the overlaps. |
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
New tub install question
On Dec 23, 1:21*am, Michael B wrote:
On Dec 22, 9:59*pm, "Ron" wrote: P.S. (by the OP): Or, Option 4?): *Mount the tub directly up against the studs; then bring the cement backer board down over the 1-inch tile flange on the tub (leaving a small gap above the top of the tub); and then tile over the cement backer board (leaving the same gap at the bottom of the backer board); then caulk where the gap is. "Ron" wrote in message ... I am re-doing a bathroom and I am about to install a new steel tub (someone else is doing the actual work, but it is easier to just write "I"). *The walls are ripped out down to the studs, and I will be using 1/2-inch cement backer board where the ceramic tile tub surround will be going. My question is about where the tub goes in relation to the cement backer board and the wall studs. *Around the 3 sides of the tub where the ceramic tile tub surround will go, there is a 1-inch "tile flange" on the tub ( http://bootz.com/Downloads/Alohawholesale.pdf). Option 1): If I mount the tub up directly up against the studs, and then apply 1/2-inch cement backer board from the top of the tile flange up, then the cement backer board will be sticking out (from the wall) about 3/8-inch past the approx. 1/8-inch thick tile flange. *Then, if I bring the ceramic tile down past the bottom edge of the backer board to close to the horizontal top of the actual tub, there will be a gap of about 3/8-inch behind the tile to the tile flange. Is that how the install is typically done? Option 2): *Or, I could apply the 1/2-inch cement backer board to the studs first, and have the backer board come down behind the 1-inch tile flange, and then mount the tub up against the cement backer board instead of directly on the studs. *But, if I do that, when I go to do the ceramic tile, the tile that goes over the 1-inch tile flange on the tub will be sticking out due to the approx. 1/8-inch thick tile flange. So, that doesn't seem like it would work. Option 3): *Pad out the studs about 3/8-inch; mount the tub against the padded out studs; then bring the cement backer board down to the top of the tile flange on the tub. *That will leave the cement backer board about even (flush) with the 1-inch tub tile flange. *Then tile down past the top of the tile flange to close to the horizontal top of the tub (which will leave no space behind the tile where it overhangs the tile flange); and then just caulk the gap between the bottom of the ceramic tile and the tub. Can anyone tell me the "correct" way to do this? -- assuming that there is one correct way. *Is it Option 1, Option 2, or Option 3; or is there some other way that is the correct way to do this? Thanks. Sure hope you've insulated to the outside wall. I prefer to use styrofoam, in about three thicknesses so that it comes perfectly even with the edge of the studs. That way, cuts don't have to be perfect, with the overlaps.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - spray foam is far better choice |
#5
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
New tub install question
"Michael B" wrote in message
... On Dec 22, 9:59 pm, "Ron" wrote: P.S. (by the OP): Or, Option 4?): Mount the tub directly up against the studs; then bring the cement backer board down over the 1-inch tile flange on the tub (leaving a "Ron" wrote in message Option 1): If I mount the tub up directly up against the studs, and then apply 1/2-inch cement backer board from the top of the tile flange up, then the cement backer board will be sticking out (from the wall) about 3/8-inch past the approx. 1/8-inch thick tile flange. Then, if I bring Option 2): Or, I could apply the 1/2-inch cement backer board to the studs first, and have the backer board come down behind the 1-inch tile flange, and then mount the tub up against the cement backer board instead Option 3): Pad out the studs about 3/8-inch; mount the tub against the padded out studs; then bring the cement backer board down to the top of the tile flange on the tub. That will leave the cement backer board about even (flush) with the 1-inch tub tile flange. Then tile down past the top Sure hope you've insulated to the outside wall. I prefer to use styrofoam, in about three thicknesses so that it comes perfectly even with the edge of the studs. That way, cuts don't have to be perfect, with the overlaps. ++++++++++ Thanks, but in this bathroom the tub is not in contact with any exterior walls -- just interior walls. |
#6
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
New tub install question
Ron,
Did the same project two years ago. I chose option 4 and furred the studs out so the backer board overlapped the tub flange. Since all three were interior walls I put some heavy duty poly up before attaching the backer board and ran it into the tub. Before the hanging the poly I figured out where I might want to put grab bars in the future and put in blocking. Took lots of pictures and measured the blocking for future reference. Trimmed the poly and caulked. So far so good. Here's a good website for this kind of project. Even the professionals disagree on how to do it right. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php Good luck. dss |
#7
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
New tub install question
dss wrote:
Ron, Did the same project two years ago. I chose option 4 and furred the studs out so the backer board overlapped the tub flange. Since all three were interior walls I put some heavy duty poly up before attaching the backer board and ran it into the tub. Before the hanging the poly I figured out where I might want to put grab bars in the future and put in blocking. Took lots of pictures and measured the blocking for future reference. Trimmed the poly and caulked. So far so good. Here's a good website for this kind of project. Even the professionals disagree on how to do it right. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php Good luck. dss Thanks, and thanks for the reminder about putting up blocking for any future grab bars. I always put in blocking for the shower rod (including in the ceiling because I am doing sort-of a corner tub setup with only a partial wall on one end, and need to do a hanger for the shower rod from the ceiling), but I didn't think of the grab bar idea. I checked out the link you provided and there were some posts there on the same topic. I decided to go ahead and also post my question there under the name "NJ-user". |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
HRV Install question | Home Repair | |||
ac install question | Home Repair | |||
Kitchen install question | UK diy | |||
Ceiling fan install question | Home Repair | |||
shower pan install question | Home Repair |