[kansascats]

I have a wood fascia board with no gutter. That wood wears at 10x the
rate of the other siding, fascia. I need to prep and paint, but
thinking to maybe run a bead of caulk along the drip edge and the
fascia so water does not wik up. The shingles were trimmed almost
flush with the drip edge, so there is very little overhang beyond the
fascia board.

Thoughts?

On the flip side-- caulking could trap water on the roof.

[Don Phillipson[_3_]]

"kansascats" wrote in message
...

I have a wood fascia board with no gutter. That wood wears at 10x the
rate of the other siding, fascia. I need to prep and paint, but
thinking to maybe run a bead of caulk along the drip edge and the
fascia so water does not wik up. The shingles were trimmed almost
flush with the drip edge, so there is very little overhang beyond the
fascia board.
Thoughts?
On the flip side-- caulking could trap water on the roof.

Why not flash the edge, if not the whole fascia board? If
secured under the drip edge, a few inches of flashing may
make the fascia last much longer. Of course you would
need to colour/camouflage it.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

[WW[_2_]]

"Don Phillipson" wrote in message
...
"kansascats" wrote in message
...

I have a wood fascia board with no gutter. That wood wears at 10x the
rate of the other siding, fascia. I need to prep and paint, but
thinking to maybe run a bead of caulk along the drip edge and the
fascia so water does not wik up. The shingles were trimmed almost
flush with the drip edge, so there is very little overhang beyond the
fascia board.
Thoughts?
On the flip side-- caulking could trap water on the roof.

Why not flash the edge, if not the whole fascia board? If
secured under the drip edge, a few inches of flashing may
make the fascia last much longer. Of course you would
need to colour/camouflage it.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

I had the same thoughts. You can get drip lip and flashing in colors ...A
permanent cure. WW

[kansascats]

On Aug 23, 2:35*pm, "Don Phillipson" wrote:
"kansascats" wrote in message

...

I have a wood fascia board with no gutter. *That wood wears at 10x the
rate of the other siding, fascia. * I need to prep and paint, but
thinking to maybe run a bead of caulk along the drip edge and the
fascia so water does not wik up. *The shingles were trimmed almost
flush with the drip edge, so there is very little overhang beyond the
fascia board.
Thoughts?
On *the flip side-- caulking could trap water on the roof.

Why not flash the edge, if not the whole fascia board? *If
secured under the drip edge, a few inches of flashing may
make the fascia last much longer. *Of course you would
need to colour/camouflage it.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

The fascia is flashed about 1.5" below the shingles, leaving about 5"
of fascia exposed. It could just be a bad paint job. I was wondering
if I should try to caulk that flashing to fascia joint, because as-is
it's going to be hard to get paint up underneath that flashing.

[Joe]

On Aug 23, 4:33*pm, kansascats wrote:
On Aug 23, 2:35*pm, "Don Phillipson" wrote:









"kansascats" wrote in message

....

I have a wood fascia board with no gutter. *That wood wears at 10x the
rate of the other siding, fascia. * I need to prep and paint, but
thinking to maybe run a bead of caulk along the drip edge and the
fascia so water does not wik up. *The shingles were trimmed almost
flush with the drip edge, so there is very little overhang beyond the
fascia board.
Thoughts?
On *the flip side-- caulking could trap water on the roof.

Why not flash the edge, if not the whole fascia board? *If
secured under the drip edge, a few inches of flashing may
make the fascia last much longer. *Of course you would
need to colour/camouflage it.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

The fascia is flashed about 1.5" below the shingles, leaving about 5"
of fascia exposed. It could just be a bad paint job. * I was wondering
if I should try to caulk that flashing to fascia joint, because as-is
it's going to be hard to get paint up underneath that flashing.

Most any siding installing outfit can bring bending brakes and formers
to the job and flash/cover the whole fascia even down around the
bottom like they do for window trim. Never needs painting, sheds
water, looks decent and is cheap, lasts for years. What's not to like?

Joe

[aemeijers]

On 8/23/2011 6:18 PM, Joe wrote:
On Aug 23, 4:33 pm, wrote:
On Aug 23, 2:35 pm, "Don wrote:









wrote in message

...

I have a wood fascia board with no gutter. That wood wears at 10x the
rate of the other siding, fascia. I need to prep and paint, but
thinking to maybe run a bead of caulk along the drip edge and the
fascia so water does not wik up. The shingles were trimmed almost
flush with the drip edge, so there is very little overhang beyond the
fascia board.
Thoughts?
On the flip side-- caulking could trap water on the roof.

Why not flash the edge, if not the whole fascia board? If
secured under the drip edge, a few inches of flashing may
make the fascia last much longer. Of course you would
need to colour/camouflage it.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

The fascia is flashed about 1.5" below the shingles, leaving about 5"
of fascia exposed. It could just be a bad paint job. I was wondering
if I should try to caulk that flashing to fascia joint, because as-is
it's going to be hard to get paint up underneath that flashing.

Most any siding installing outfit can bring bending brakes and formers
to the job and flash/cover the whole fascia even down around the
bottom like they do for window trim. Never needs painting, sheds
water, looks decent and is cheap, lasts for years. What's not to like?

Joe

No, no, a thousand times NO! That is what they did to this place, and
the wood inside the wrap is rotted in multiple spots now. You will never
get a perfect or permanent seal between the wrap and the drip edge, and
water WILL get in there. (Driving rains, ice dams that melt on sunny
days, etc.) If your heart is set on wrapping, at least have them make
it oversize, so there is a drain channel along the bottom, and form
scuppers or drill weep holes every few feet.

Redoing all that properly on this place, with trex or cedar or something
rot-proof, was on the list until the value of house dropped so much that
upgrades had to be prioritized.

And I'll just note in passing- 'lasts for years' should mean 50-75
years, not 'the average 7 years until house changes hands'.

But having ranted all that- I don't think caulk will help, and may even
hurt- if water wicks up through the wood, you want it to be able to drip
back out, not pond in there above the caulk.
--
aem sends...

[Harry K]

On Aug 23, 11:21*am, kansascats wrote:
I have a wood fascia board with no gutter. *That wood wears at 10x the
rate of the other siding, fascia. * I need to prep and paint, but
thinking to maybe run a bead of caulk along the drip edge and the
fascia so water does not wik up. *The shingles were trimmed almost
flush with the drip edge, so there is very little overhang beyond the
fascia board.

Thoughts?

On *the flip side-- caulking could trap water on the roof.

Not clear just wht is going on. Can you post a picture? I cannot
feature a roofing job that did not have metal 'drip edge' installed
under the shingles and over the edge of the plywood. That stuff sheds
the water off the roof and does not 'wick up'. Any water hitting the
fascia board would have to blown there. Does it have that metal drip
edge?

Harry K

[Tony Hwang]

Joe wrote:
On Aug 23, 4:33 pm, wrote:
On Aug 23, 2:35 pm, "Don wrote:









wrote in message

...

I have a wood fascia board with no gutter. That wood wears at 10x the
rate of the other siding, fascia. I need to prep and paint, but
thinking to maybe run a bead of caulk along the drip edge and the
fascia so water does not wik up. The shingles were trimmed almost
flush with the drip edge, so there is very little overhang beyond the
fascia board.
Thoughts?
On the flip side-- caulking could trap water on the roof.

Why not flash the edge, if not the whole fascia board? If
secured under the drip edge, a few inches of flashing may
make the fascia last much longer. Of course you would
need to colour/camouflage it.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

The fascia is flashed about 1.5" below the shingles, leaving about 5"
of fascia exposed. It could just be a bad paint job. I was wondering
if I should try to caulk that flashing to fascia joint, because as-is
it's going to be hard to get paint up underneath that flashing.

Most any siding installing outfit can bring bending brakes and formers
to the job and flash/cover the whole fascia even down around the
bottom like they do for window trim. Never needs painting, sheds
water, looks decent and is cheap, lasts for years. What's not to like?

Joe
Hi,
Wonder why there is no eavestrough? Anyhow those metal preformed
cladding material is at HD, Lowes, or Rona. Clad it and forget it.