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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. I looks
good, but seems overpriced. It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.

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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On 8/21/2011 3:36 PM, Dick Adams wrote:
I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. I looks
good, but seems overpriced. It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

....

'Pends on what else you already have and what type of shelves you're
thinking of building imo...

If they're utility shelves for the garage it's suitable joinery; can use
them for face frames like kitchen cabinets altho I'm not particularly
fond of them. For more general use I'd suggest going the biscuit joiner
route instead for about the same entry price other than the little mini-jig.

I'll add to your list rec.woodworking

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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On 8/21/2011 3:36 PM, Dick Adams wrote:
I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. I looks
good, but seems overpriced. It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.

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#2 - misc.taxes.moderated

Dick
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I'd never heard of them until now. I checked Lowes (online) and the
prices seemed reasonable if you're going to use it more than once.

Why buy their screws? Just get your own. They don't need to be self tapping.

Thanks for posting. Looks like a handy tool. I'd go for it.
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 16:35:12 -0500, JimT wrote:

I'd never heard of them until now. I checked Lowes (online) and the
prices seemed reasonable if you're going to use it more than once.

Why buy their screws? Just get your own. They don't need to be self tapping.

Thanks for posting. Looks like a handy tool. I'd go for it.


Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrebqzFXSII

I don't see a need for the "complete master system". Just the basic
kit. About $95.00. Comes with a sample kit of screws, bit and a few
plugs (if you want to use them).

http://www.kregtool.com/Pocket-Hole-Jigs-Prodlist.html


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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 16:35:12 -0500, JimT wrote:

On 8/21/2011 3:36 PM, Dick Adams wrote:
I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. I looks
good, but seems overpriced. It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.

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#1 - alt.home.repair
#2 - misc.taxes.moderated

Dick
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I'd never heard of them until now. I checked Lowes (online) and the
prices seemed reasonable if you're going to use it more than once.

Why buy their screws? Just get your own. They don't need to be self tapping.


The screw heads are shaped for the holes (pretty flat on the bottom).

Thanks for posting. Looks like a handy tool. I'd go for it.


They're amazing for pocket holes. I had a simpler jig, some time back, but
there was no good way to gauge the distances. The Kreg jig makes it a piece
of cake; perfectly centered holes.
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig


"Art Todesco" wrote
I found that it works just as good with drywall screws, but I have a few
boxes of the overly expensive, Kreg screws.


Maybe you got by, but it is not "just as good". Drywall screws are easy to
drive, but they are really not a good wood screw, starting with the
brittleness. How much did you save last year by using a second rate screw?

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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 22:48:40 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:


"Art Todesco" wrote
I found that it works just as good with drywall screws, but I have a few
boxes of the overly expensive, Kreg screws.


Maybe you got by, but it is not "just as good". Drywall screws are easy to
drive, but they are really not a good wood screw, starting with the
brittleness.


The head shape doesn't help, either. I used decking screws in the gate I
mentioned above but the gate only has to last a year (the whole fence has to
be replaced this fall).

How much did you save last year by using a second rate screw?


Gee, I've never had a second rate screw. Is there such a thing? ;-)


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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 16:35:12 -0500, JimT wrote:


Why buy their screws? Just get your own. They don't need to be self tapping.


Screws explained:

http://www.youtube.com/user/KregToolCompany
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On 8/21/2011 6:11 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 16:35:12 -0500, wrote:

Why buy their screws? Just get your own. They don't need to be self tapping.

Screws explained:

http://www.youtube.com/user/KregToolCompany




I don't think the screw would make a lot of difference as long as it was
appropriate for the job. I would use some glue though.

Sorry for the email Oren. My mistake
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 18:22:26 -0500, JimT wrote:

On 8/21/2011 6:11 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 16:35:12 -0500, wrote:

Why buy their screws? Just get your own. They don't need to be self tapping.

Screws explained:

http://www.youtube.com/user/KregToolCompany




I don't think the screw would make a lot of difference as long as it was
appropriate for the job. I would use some glue though.


The KJ infomercial even states you can add glue at the joints. Is it
necessary -- not likely, but it won't hurt? Glue _would_ add to the
joint strength.

Sorry for the email Oren. My mistake


LOL. You sent me mail directed to your localhost router (127.0.0.1).

It will never arrive.
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On 8/21/2011 6:55 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 18:22:26 -0500, wrote:

On 8/21/2011 6:11 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 16:35:12 -0500, wrote:

Why buy their screws? Just get your own. They don't need to be self tapping.
Screws explained:

http://www.youtube.com/user/KregToolCompany



I don't think the screw would make a lot of difference as long as it was
appropriate for the job. I would use some glue though.

The KJ infomercial even states you can add glue at the joints. Is it
necessary -- not likely, but it won't hurt? Glue _would_ add to the
joint strength.

Sorry for the email Oren. My mistake

LOL. You sent me mail directed to your localhost router (127.0.0.1).

It will never arrive.


After thinking about it those screws would be useful. Particularly
working with narrow boards or soft lumber.


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Default Value of a Kreg Jig


"Oren" wrote

I don't think the screw would make a lot of difference as long as it was
appropriate for the job. I would use some glue though.


The KJ infomercial even states you can add glue at the joints. Is it
necessary -- not likely, but it won't hurt? Glue _would_ add to the
joint strength.


In most cases, it would add very little. One of the big uses for the pocket
hole joinery is face frames and similar joints at 90 degree angles. Very
often, it is end grain on one board of the joint. Glue on end grain is very
weak, thus a big reason to use pocket screws to begin with.




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Default Value of a Kreg Jig


"JimT" wrote in message
I'd never heard of them until now. I checked Lowes (online) and the prices
seemed reasonable if you're going to use it more than once.

Why buy their screws? Just get your own. They don't need to be self
tapping.


Works best with the right type of screw. Note the thread on point and the
unthreaded shank, unlike a regular wood screw. They are available from
other sources though. McFeelys has #8 1 1/2" for 5¢ apiece. At 40¢ for
a full face frame, why compromise?

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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On Aug 21, 3:36*pm, (Dick Adams) wrote:
I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. *I looks
good, but seems overpriced. *It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.

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* #1 - alt.home.repair
* #2 - misc.taxes.moderated

Dick
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Don' t yet have them, intend to buy soon. Highly recommended by
several friends whose talents exceed mine by a whole lot.

Joe
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig


Dick Adams wrote:

I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. I looks
good, but seems overpriced. It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.


The Kreg jigs are extremely useful as well as being easy to use (I have
their 2000 kit). They do not have you on the hook for the screws, pocket
hole joinery screws are available from many other sources and pocket
hole jigs are available from other sources. The Kreg jigs are some of
the best I've seen however.

One thing to keep in mind is that pocket hole construction is sensitive
to material thickness, so you either need a thickness planer to get
everything sized correctly, or else have a lumber source that can do it
for you. For efficiency you also need two good drill/drivers, one to
drill the holes and one to drive the screws. A corded drill for the
drilling and a cordless for the driving works well.


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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On Sun, 21 Aug 2011 19:38:01 -0500, "Pete C." wrote:


Dick Adams wrote:

I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. I looks
good, but seems overpriced. It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.


The Kreg jigs are extremely useful as well as being easy to use (I have
their 2000 kit). They do not have you on the hook for the screws, pocket
hole joinery screws are available from many other sources and pocket
hole jigs are available from other sources. The Kreg jigs are some of
the best I've seen however.

One thing to keep in mind is that pocket hole construction is sensitive
to material thickness, so you either need a thickness planer to get
everything sized correctly, or else have a lumber source that can do it
for you.


The Kreg jigs are calibrated for varying wood thickness. I found it really
easy to use on even 2x lumber.

For efficiency you also need two good drill/drivers, one to
drill the holes and one to drive the screws. A corded drill for the
drilling and a cordless for the driving works well.


That's true for any job where a lot of screws are needed. I've used two
cordless drills for years, though more recently I use an impact driver to
drive screws. What a difference.
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On Aug 21, 9:36*pm, (Dick Adams) wrote:
I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. *I looks
good, but seems overpriced. *It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.

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* #1 - alt.home.repair
* #2 - misc.taxes.moderated

Dick
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Richard D. Adams, CPA
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Rarely worth paying out for these gadgets for one-off use.
Use conventional woodworking techniques/joints.
Generally looks better too.
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 00:57:19 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

On Aug 21, 9:36Â*pm, (Dick Adams) wrote:
I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. Â*I looks
good, but seems overpriced. Â*It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.

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Â* #1 - alt.home.repair
Â* #2 - misc.taxes.moderated

Dick
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Richard D. Adams, CPA
Moderator: misc.taxes.moderated


Rarely worth paying out for these gadgets for one-off use.
Use conventional woodworking techniques/joints.
Generally looks better too.


Though I agree with that, even "conventional" joinery
takes some investment in tools.
Not enough info.
"Book shelves" covers a lot of territory.

--Vic
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig


Vic Smith wrote:

On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 00:57:19 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

On Aug 21, 9:36Â pm, (Dick Adams) wrote:
I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. Â I looks
good, but seems overpriced. Â It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.

- The two best newsgroups on USENET a
 #1 - alt.home.repair
 #2 - misc.taxes.moderated

Dick
--
Richard D. Adams, CPA
Moderator: misc.taxes.moderated


Rarely worth paying out for these gadgets for one-off use.
Use conventional woodworking techniques/joints.
Generally looks better too.


Though I agree with that, even "conventional" joinery
takes some investment in tools.
Not enough info.
"Book shelves" covers a lot of territory.

--Vic


"16 feet of book shelves" sounds like it could be a fairly involved
built-in where the $100 cost of the Kreg jig could be worthwhile. The
jig would also be available for future projects.
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On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 16:23:57 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:



Though I agree with that, even "conventional" joinery
takes some investment in tools.
Not enough info.
"Book shelves" covers a lot of territory.

--Vic


"16 feet of book shelves" sounds like it could be a fairly involved
built-in where the $100 cost of the Kreg jig could be worthwhile. The
jig would also be available for future projects.


Maybe. Only reason I mentioned that is I built a redwood set of
bookshelves using a box saw and chisels for dadoes. No glue.
Crank drill for the screw holes.
Wasn't perfect, but good enough it's still in use 40 years later.
It's 8' x 8' with 7 shelves.
That's 56 feet of shelves.
Not saying I would do it the same way now, but I wouldn't use pocket
screws for shelving anyway.

--Vic


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On 8/22/2011 6:02 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 16:23:57 -0500, "Pete
wrote:



Though I agree with that, even "conventional" joinery
takes some investment in tools.
Not enough info.
"Book shelves" covers a lot of territory.

--Vic


"16 feet of book shelves" sounds like it could be a fairly involved
built-in where the $100 cost of the Kreg jig could be worthwhile. The
jig would also be available for future projects.


Maybe. Only reason I mentioned that is I built a redwood set of
bookshelves using a box saw and chisels for dadoes. No glue.
Crank drill for the screw holes.
Wasn't perfect, but good enough it's still in use 40 years later.
It's 8' x 8' with 7 shelves.
That's 56 feet of shelves.
Not saying I would do it the same way now, but I wouldn't use pocket
screws for shelving anyway.

--Vic

Agreed. For DIY bookshelves, especially first attempt with limited skill
set, slotted 2x uprights with 5/4 shelves spanning around 30" each, is
the painless way to go. All you need is some sawhorses, a skilsaw, a
couple bar clamps, a good square and straightedge, a chisel, and a
hammer. If you can use the entire end of a room, like the living room
in a no-fireplace cookie cutter, entire thing can be jam-fit with shims,
and you won't even mar the walls. (Although in earthquake country I
would still tie it off with screws into several studs, up high.) If you
can't go wall-to-wall, 1x8 stiffening rails screwed to top and bottom of
back will keep it nice and square.

And it knocks down very quickly for moving. I showed a lot of people how
to make these in my college years. You can use fancy lumber with a fancy
finish, or cherry-picked framing grade with wiped-on walnut stain, and
get acceptable looking results.

--
aem sends...


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Vic Smith wrote:

On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 16:23:57 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Though I agree with that, even "conventional" joinery
takes some investment in tools.
Not enough info.
"Book shelves" covers a lot of territory.

--Vic


"16 feet of book shelves" sounds like it could be a fairly involved
built-in where the $100 cost of the Kreg jig could be worthwhile. The
jig would also be available for future projects.


Maybe. Only reason I mentioned that is I built a redwood set of
bookshelves using a box saw and chisels for dadoes. No glue.
Crank drill for the screw holes.
Wasn't perfect, but good enough it's still in use 40 years later.
It's 8' x 8' with 7 shelves.
That's 56 feet of shelves.
Not saying I would do it the same way now, but I wouldn't use pocket
screws for shelving anyway.

--Vic


Yep, but if 16' means a 16' wide built-in unit with face frames and
whatnot, a pocket hole jib will be quite helpful.
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Default Value of a Kreg Jig

On 8/22/2011 5:23 PM, Pete C. wrote:

"16 feet of book shelves" sounds like it could be a fairly involved
built-in where the $100 cost of the Kreg jig could be worthwhile. The
jig would also be available for future projects.


I would buy the $40 kit like this one at Lowes.

http://tinyurl.com/3ucd8mb

You can buy the $30 clamp in the $100 kreg kit for around 5 bucks at
Harbor Fright, works fine for this use, but it's not really needed.

http://tinyurl.com/3px524s

I would buy the $100 kit if I made 3 16' bookcases every day, 6 days a
week, with face frames.

The $20 kit for rare use, the $40 kit is perfect for occasional and even
routine use. For book cases, pocket holes would be good for the face
frame, if using a face frame.

Dry wall screws would work, but poorly. You want pan head screws or
washer head screws for pocket holes. The bugle heads on drywall screws
would sorta work on very hard woods, but would be hard to control depth
on soft woods and would be prone to splitting the wood.
I would never use drywall screws in pocket holes, unless you could find
pan head dw screws, and you can't:-)

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
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On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 00:57:19 -0700 (PDT), harry wrote:

On Aug 21, 9:36*pm, (Dick Adams) wrote:
I'm planning to build about 16 feet of book shelves.
A friend suggested I invest in a Kreg Jig. *I looks
good, but seems overpriced. *It also looks like they
have you on the hook for their self-tapping screws.

I'll appreciate comments.

- The two best newsgroups on USENET a
* #1 - alt.home.repair
* #2 - misc.taxes.moderated

Dick
--
Richard D. Adams, CPA
Moderator: misc.taxes.moderated


Rarely worth paying out for these gadgets for one-off use.
Use conventional woodworking techniques/joints.
Generally looks better too.


Pocket-hole joinery *IS* a conventional woodworking technique, dumbass limey!
What a clueless jerk.
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