Have an approximately 10 year old Whirlpool top load washer. It's not
filling as full as it used to on "Super size" setting. Where should I
be looking to DIY repair this? Is the fill level based on a sensor or
some kind of timer? Or....?

Thanks

On Jun 15, 7:11*pm, brassplyer wrote:
Have an approximately 10 year old Whirlpool top load washer. It's not
filling as full as it used to on "Super size" setting. Where should I
be looking to DIY repair this? Is the fill level based on a sensor or
some kind of timer? Or....?

Thanks

it has a pressure sensor that switches electricity off from the fill
valve.Most failure, though, cause overfilling, rather than
underfilling, as a hose leak does not build up pressure as the washer
fills and so it takes a higher water level to build up the pressure to
turn the fill off. Does it do this on all fills over all the various
types of cycles, and on the rinse fill also???

On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 17:11:10 -0700 (PDT), brassplyer
wrote:

Have an approximately 10 year old Whirlpool top load washer. It's not
filling as full as it used to on "Super size" setting. Where should I
be looking to DIY repair this? Is the fill level based on a sensor or
some kind of timer? Or....?

It's not a timer. It always gets to the same level even when it's
only hot or cold water or both, even when the faucet is partly turned
off, even when there are stones clogging the screens that protect the
washer valves.

Thanks

"brassplyer" wrote:

Have an approximately 10 year old Whirlpool top load washer. It's not
filling as full as it used to on "Super size" setting. Where should I
be looking to DIY repair this? Is the fill level based on a sensor or
some kind of timer? Or....?

There's usually a water level switch (aka pressure switch) that "senses" the
water level in the wash tub. It's usually a plastic tube which runs from
the switch in the control console down to the side of the outer tub, near
the bottom. When the tub fills, water also enters the tube where it pushes
on the air trapped inside and increases the air pressure. When the air
pressure reaches a certain level, it triggers the switch. A defective
pressure switch can result in both underfilling or overfilling of the tub.

Inspect the air tube for kinks, breaks or damage. The tube should also be
free of water. The tubing should be securely connected to the bottom of the
outer tub and to the bottom of the water level switch.

If you're comfortable using a multimeter, you can remove (after labeling!)
the wires to the switch to test the switch for continuity test each of the
possible pairs. You can test the switch by blowing air into the pressure
switch to see if it causes the circuit to open and break the continuity of
the appropriate switch pair. Or you could just take a leap of faith and
replace it because that's an easy fix compared to getting to the sensor tube
in the outer tub. That's what I would do since the cost of the switch is
almost certain to be less than a service call.

--
Bobby G.