Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one
pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

On May 6, 10:47*am, "James" wrote:
Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in one
pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

It's going to depend on the saw. I would doubt it for most of them.
It's not that difficult to get a decent cut in two passes if the saw
is set up square. I can get pretty durn close with a hand circular
saw if I take my time. Besides you're working with a 6x6 which is by
no means going to be perfect in any other direction.

In article ,
"James" wrote:

Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one
pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

I've not heard the term "non-reciprocating." Does that mean it's a
circular saw? If so, unless the hub diameter is 0.000", it isn't going
to cut something half the diameter of the blade.

On May 6, 10:47*am, "James" wrote:

Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in one
pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

No. First off, a miter saw does not reciprocate, it rotates, and no
saw provides a perfectly smooth cut unless you have a rather loose
definition of perfectly.

Make a miter box out of some scrap plywood and use a plain old vanilla
hand saw, and clean it up with a sharp hand plane. It won't kill you,
you won't mess up the beam, and it's good exercise.

R

On May 6, 11:06*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,

*"James" wrote:
Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in one
pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

I've not heard the term "non-reciprocating." Does that mean it's a
circular saw? If so, unless the hub diameter is 0.000", it isn't going
to cut something half the diameter of the blade.

That's true but a 6x6 is not 6x6 either.

On 5/6/2011 9:47 AM, James wrote:
Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one
pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James



I can't imagine how ANY 12" blade would cut a 5 1/2 or 6" cut. If you
have a washer holding the blade on, the very MOST you could ever get is
5 1/2" and that is if you could cut all the way to the washer and that's
not likely.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On May 6, 10:47*am, "James" wrote:
Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in one
pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

Do you mean a non-sliding miter saw?

I've never heard of a reciprocating miter saw, so I'm pretty confident
in stating that *all* miter saws are non-reciprocating.

In fact, a reciprocating miter saw sounds really scary!

Besides, you'd be amazed at what a belt sander can do to clean up any
ridges left from a cut made from multiple sides.

Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... one chap caught that....

What is the next size, after 12 inch ? Does it go to 14, or larger ?

BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 beams, so could cut down on work if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. Will build
"squares" out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. Will nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic
drill press to drill pilot holes first.

James

On May 6, 3:33*pm, "James" wrote:
Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... *one chap caught that....

What is the next size, after 12 *inch ? * * Does it go to *14, or larger ?

BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 *beams, so could cut down on work if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. *Will build
"squares" *out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. *Will nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. *For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic
drill press to drill pilot holes first.

James

If you building stairs out of them then the cut quality is not that
important. Use a chain saw.

On May 6, 7:47*am, "James" wrote:
Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in one
pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

Do a Google search on 12" miter saws. There has a to be a tool review
or tool comparison for 12" miter saw.

My experience with a limited number of 12 inchers says that you'll
need to jump to a 14" miter saw to make that cut in a single pass.

Otherwise use a beam saw or a hand saw in a miter box.

cheers
Non

jamesgangnc wrote in
:

On May 6, 3:33*pm, "James" wrote:
Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... *one chap caught
that....

What is the next size, after 12 *inch ? * * Does it go to *14, or
larger ?

BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 *beams, so could cut down on
work
if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. *Will build
"squares" *out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. *Wi
ll nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. *For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a
basic drill press to drill pilot holes first.

James

If you building stairs out of them then the cut quality is not that
important. Use a chain saw.

Bingo!

Even a cheap electric one.

On May 6, 3:33*pm, "James" wrote:
Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... *one chap caught that....

What is the next size, after 12 *inch ? * * Does it go to *14, or larger ?

BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 *beams, so could cut down on work if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. *Will build
"squares" *out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. *Will nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. *For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic
drill press to drill pilot holes first.

James

Are you sure 10 inch nails are long enough?

You might want to consider re-bar. Probably cheaper and can be cut to
lengths that can go through multiple beams and into the ground.

On May 6, 10:47*am, "James" wrote:
Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in one
pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone
who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly
smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

Did that not too long ago for clothes line and mailbox post.. I just
used my circular saw and a speed square as a saw guide. This didnt cut
all the way through but finishing with a hand saw was a piece of cake.
Probably could have done the same with my chop saw. BTW my nephew was
with me and I was trying to show him how to use the speed square as a
guide...he has some coordination problems and was having trouble
holding both the saw and the square so I had him clamp the square in
place.

Jimmie

The diameter of the motor is one limiting factor. To the OP,
we strongly doubt it.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

I can't imagine how ANY 12" blade would cut a 5 1/2 or 6"
cut. If you
have a washer holding the blade on, the very MOST you could
ever get is
5 1/2" and that is if you could cut all the way to the
washer and that's
not likely.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Next to your drill press, please consider a band saw.
http://www.harborfreight.com/14-inch...saw-67595.html

Please also consider "nail gun", not sure pneumatic is what
you want. Power nailer, maybe? One that shoots .22 rimfire
blanks loads. Cuts down on the sore elbows from endless
pounding.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"James" wrote in message
net...
Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using
the word
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... one chap
caught that....

What is the next size, after 12 inch ? Does it go to
14, or larger ?

BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 beams, so could cut
down on work if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains.
Will build
"squares" out of beams, and stake them in the ground with
rebar. Will nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails.
For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about
buying a basic
drill press to drill pilot holes first.

James

And, a Lucky Strike is not a smoke?

Not that I'd know; I've never had any urge to light one of
those foul smelling things, and put chemicals in my body and
die of cancer. Having spent all my money on nicotine
addiction.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...

I've not heard the term "non-reciprocating." Does that
mean it's a
circular saw? If so, unless the hub diameter is 0.000", it
isn't going
to cut something half the diameter of the blade.

That's true but a 6x6 is not 6x6 either.

Nearly guarantees tennis elbow.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"DD_BobK" wrote in message
...

Otherwise use a beam saw or a hand saw in a miter box.

cheers
Non

On May 6, 5:21*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
And, a Lucky Strike is not a smoke?

Not that I'd know; I've never had any urge to light one of
those foul smelling things, and put chemicals in my body and
die of cancer. Having spent all my money on nicotine
addiction.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

...



I've not heard the term "non-reciprocating." Does that
mean it's a
circular saw? If so, unless the hub diameter is 0.000", it
isn't going
to cut something half the diameter of the blade.

That's true but a 6x6 is not 6x6 either.

If it was a choice between top posting and you smoking, I think you'd
get a lot of votes for you smoking.

R

Ok, see your points now Oren, thanks !!

James

Stormin Mormon wrote the following:
And, a Lucky Strike is not a smoke?

Not that I'd know; I've never had any urge to light one of
those foul smelling things, and put chemicals in my body and
die of cancer. Having spent all my money on nicotine
addiction.


....and all this has to do with cutting a 6x6 beam with a 12" miter saw how?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On May 6, 8:08*pm, willshak wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote the following: And, a Lucky Strike is not a smoke?

Not that I'd know; I've never had any urge to light one of
those foul smelling things, and put chemicals in my body and
die of cancer. Having spent all my money on nicotine
addiction.

...and all this has to do with cutting a 6x6 beam with a 12" miter saw how?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Inasmuch as the audience is getting pretty fed up with his anti usenet
custom...

Harry K

On May 6, 12:33*pm, "James" wrote:
Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... *one chap caught that....

What is the next size, after 12 *inch ? * * Does it go to *14, or larger ?

BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 *beams, so could cut down on work if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. *Will build
"squares" *out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. *Will nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. *For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic
drill press to drill pilot holes first.

James

If that is the use, you are way overengineering it. That is not a
"finish" type cut - use a chainsaw.

Harry K

On May 6, 12:33*pm, "James" wrote:
Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... *one chap caught that....

What is the next size, after 12 *inch ? * * Does it go to *14, or larger ?

BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 *beams, so could cut down on work if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. *Will build
"squares" *out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. *Will nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. *For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic
drill press to drill pilot holes first.

James

I forgot the second part - drilling the hole.

Again, drill press accuracy is not required. A 3/8 or 1/2' drill and
"speed bore" spade dills are the route to go. I've BTDT.

Harry K

Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy...
it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

James

You mean it's not obvious?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"willshak" wrote in message
m...
Stormin Mormon wrote the following:
And, a Lucky Strike is not a smoke?

Not that I'd know; I've never had any urge to light one of
those foul smelling things, and put chemicals in my body
and
die of cancer. Having spent all my money on nicotine
addiction.


....and all this has to do with cutting a 6x6 beam with a 12"
miter saw how?

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

James, I am not aware of any drill press capable of 10" quill
stroke. I think you will definitely be in the portable drill
market. The big decision will be whether to work with a ship
auger or speed bores with extension.

You might consider using a reciprocating saw for the timber cuts
if you do not find a chainsaw acceptable.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"James" wrote in message
net...
Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen
steps cut with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps
most folks would, but I don't, and my project will look better
when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill
accuracy... it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY
steps thurs many holes to drill for these steps.... I think
that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes ten inches deep, would
justify "considering" a drill press.

James

In article , "DanG"
wrote:

James, I am not aware of any drill press capable of 10" quill
stroke.

Good point, although theoretically he could drill them all halfway, then
move the table. I still don't quite understand what he's doing.

On May 7, 6:25*am, "James" wrote:
Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. *Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy....
it has to do with speed and manpower. * I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... * *I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

James

What you need is a Milwaukee Hole Hawg and a ship auger of the
appropriate size. Unfortunately, Milwaukee self feed bits don't come
is the smaller sizes you need.
Look over the bits and such in the section of plumbers and
electricians specialties at your box store.

Joe

On 5/7/2011 8:53 AM, DanG wrote:
James, I am not aware of any drill press capable of 10" quill
stroke. I think you will definitely be in the portable drill
market. The big decision will be whether to work with a ship
auger or speed bores with extension.

You might consider using a reciprocating saw for the timber cuts
if you do not find a chainsaw acceptable.


Agreed. He is making this WAY more complicated than it needs to be. Even
if he had a giant chop saw and wide-mouth drill press, I suspect that
after hoisting and supporting the first half-dozen timbers to cut and
drill them, he would be looking for another solution. An electrician's
drill with and auger or long spade bit, and a small chainsaw, is what we
used back in the stone age. A speed square and an old screwdriver, to
scribe the cut lines, helps. Fit one end, mark the other end, shove a
brick under it to keep the blade out of the dirt, and cut. Once timber
is in place, drill the slightly undersize hole through the first timber
into the second, and pound in the rebar peg with a BFH.

Only time we did fancy smooth cuts and used threaded rod or bolts, was
for the pretty stuff up on the deck, which wasn't made from landscape
timbers.

Yes, a Sawzall or clone would work and produce a prettier cut, but it
would be a lot slower than a chainsaw. (The framing crews decking out
the roofs on the apartments I worked on as a kid, used a chainsaw to cut
off the wild ends on the decking. 3 stories up, strolling along with no
safety harness. Those guys were all young and immortal, but I never saw
one fall.)

--
aem sends...

On May 7, 7:25*am, "James" wrote:

Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. *Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

I think you're assuming a couple of things about chainsaws and their
use that are affecting your opinion. I have seen tile jobs that
sucked - doesn't mean that I think all tile jobs suck. Most people
are not looking for joinery-quality cuts when they whip out a
chainsaw. They're looking for down and dirty, and probably have a
worn chain, so it's no surprise that what you saw was down and dirty -
yours doesn't have to be. Invest the money in the correct tool.
http://www.timbertools.com/Products/...saw-guide.html
or, if you want slower so you can enjoy the experience on the hillside
for longer
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5402NA-.../dp/B0000614UR

BTW, you are simply kidding yourself about the cut ends of the ties.
Unless you're popping for the $ for cedar, you're going to be getting
PT 6x6s and they'll have splits, checks, and big knots. Even if your
cuts were perfect the whole job would still look like it was made from
lumber with splits, checks, and big knots. You're mentally gilding
the lily before you start which is a perfect recipe for a big
letdown. I advise you to adjust your thinking.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy....
it has to do with speed and manpower. * I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... * *I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

Again - you're simply kidding yourself. Lugging a drill press up and
down and on top of whatever needs to be drilled is pointless in your
application. The ties are drilled in place and you don't need a
perfectly perpendicular hole, you need a straight hole that's
relatively perpendicular. Any heavy duty D-handled 1/2" drill will do
the job. Use an extension for the drill bit so you don't have to bend
over to drill the holes. The weight of the drill will feed the bit -
you just have to keep it from rotating.

I still think you should do it with hand tools. They build moral
fiber.

R

On 5/7/2011 6:25 AM, James wrote:
Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy...
it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

James


it CERTAINLY won't be faster with a drill press. I'd get an auger bit
and a gas powered drill.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On May 7, 10:29*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 5/7/2011 6:25 AM, James wrote: Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. *Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy...
it has to do with speed and manpower. * I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... * *I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

James

it CERTAINLY won't be faster with a drill press. *I'd get an auger bit
and a gas powered drill.

Probably simpler to just use a generator. I've never seen a gas
powered drill, but I imagine they'd be fun to use.

R

RicodJour wrote the following:
On May 7, 10:29 pm, Steve Barker wrote:

On 5/7/2011 6:25 AM, James wrote: Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut

with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy...
it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

James

it CERTAINLY won't be faster with a drill press. I'd get an auger bit
and a gas powered drill.


Probably simpler to just use a generator. I've never seen a gas
powered drill, but I imagine they'd be fun to use.

R



Why not? George Goble had a gas guitar. :-)
(George Gobel was a stand up comedian who had as a prop, a Gibson L5CT
acoustic guitar. When someone asked him why he didn't use an electric
guitar, he said it was a gas guitar).

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On 5/7/2011 11:22 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On May 7, 10:29 pm, Steve wrote:
On 5/7/2011 6:25 AM, James wrote: Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy...
it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

James

it CERTAINLY won't be faster with a drill press. I'd get an auger bit
and a gas powered drill.

Probably simpler to just use a generator. I've never seen a gas
powered drill, but I imagine they'd be fun to use.

R


we had one at the lawn and landscape joint i spent 13 years at. We put
a swing set anchor in it, and the girls drilled holes for flower bulbs
with it. Not sure what brand it was. It was red.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 5/7/2011 11:22 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On May 7, 10:29 pm, Steve wrote:
On 5/7/2011 6:25 AM, James wrote: Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut
with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps most folks would, but I
don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy...
it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY steps thurs many holes
to drill for these steps.... I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes
ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

James

it CERTAINLY won't be faster with a drill press. I'd get an auger bit
and a gas powered drill.

Probably simpler to just use a generator. I've never seen a gas
powered drill, but I imagine they'd be fun to use.

R


http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/augerdrill.html

http://tinyurl.com/3dddglb (tanaka)



--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

James wrote:
Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in
one pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear
from someone who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as
to get a perfectly smooth cut ?

Thanks !!


Late to the party, but just saw this today. What you need is a Beam Saw

http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools...SXEc400HM.html

An interesting collection of power tools for working big lumber, but not
cheap

--
PV

If you can't fix it with a hammer.......you have an electrical problem

On May 6, 3:33*pm, "James" wrote:
Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word
non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... *one chap caught that....

What is the next size, after 12 *inch ? * * Does it go to *14, or larger ?

BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 *beams, so could cut down on work if we
had a saw that can cut in one pass.

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. *Will build
"squares" *out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. *Will nail
beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. *For the
project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic
drill press to drill pilot holes first.

James

Northern Tool used to have a big chop saw meant to cut metal. You cut
probably put a big blade on one of these to cut wood. That would
probably be without a guard So make sure children and pets are far
away when using. As I remember the saw was less than $100 US last I
saw of one.

Jimmie

wow, will look at Northern Tool for this chop saw !!

Thanks !!

James

On May 8, 6:47*pm, "PV" edrnouser@ spam telus.net wrote:
James wrote:
Will a *12 inch, *non-reciprocating miter saw cut *6 *x 6 * beams in
one pass ??? * *I know it would be close, but I would like to hear
from someone who has done it. *Again, can it cut in one pass, so as
to get a perfectly smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

Late to the party, but just saw this today. *What you need is a Beam Saw

http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools...SXEc400HM.html

An interesting collection of power tools for working big lumber, but not
cheap

--
PV

If you can't fix it with a hammer.......you have an electrical problem

Those won't work for the OP. He has stated in no uncertain terms that
he won't use a chainsaw.

Since those beam cutters are nothing more (said with jest) than
electric chain saws, he won't be using one of those.

He's made up his mind. Don't go confusing him with facts.

On May 8, 7:40*pm, "James" wrote:
wow, will look at Northern Tool for this chop saw !!

Thanks !!

James

As far as I know, the largest chop saw Northern Tool sells is 14".

As far as I know, the max cut size with a 14" chop saw is 5" for
square stock.