carpet installers are here and ripping up old stuff. flooring is
particle board thick enough to be very rigid

can i put durorock membrane on this for tile?

http://www.durocktilemembrane.com/pr...embrane-9.aspx

On Mar 28, 10:56*am, bob wrote:
carpet installers are here and ripping up old stuff. flooring is
particle board thick enough to be very rigid

can i put durorock membrane on this for tile?

http://www.durocktilemembrane.com/pr...embrane-9.aspx

Particle board in a wet environment like a bathroom is far from
ideal. Rip it out and ask a pro what would be better. Or band-aid it
like you suggested and live with the inevitable do-over.
Given your situation I would simply Durock over plywood on the joists
and not worry about it for years. That and a Schlutter membrane should
be very long lasting for tile work in a bath.

Joe.

On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 09:08:46 -0700 (PDT), Joe wrote:

On Mar 28, 10:56*am, bob wrote:
carpet installers are here and ripping up old stuff. flooring is
particle board thick enough to be very rigid

can i put durorock membrane on this for tile?

http://www.durocktilemembrane.com/pr...embrane-9.aspx

Particle board in a wet environment like a bathroom is far from
ideal. Rip it out and ask a pro what would be better. Or band-aid it
like you suggested and live with the inevitable do-over.
Given your situation I would simply Durock over plywood on the joists
and not worry about it for years. That and a Schlutter membrane should
be very long lasting for tile work in a bath.

right now there's tile in the bathroom...ugly stuff which is why i
want to get rid of it. but it looks like the floor's stable enough for
tile. want to make sure it stays that way!

thanks much

Joe.

"bob" wrote in message
...
carpet installers are here and ripping up old stuff. flooring is
particle board thick enough to be very rigid

can i put durorock membrane on this for tile?

http://www.durocktilemembrane.com/pr...embrane-9.aspx

I learned my lesson about particle board in kitchens and baths about 30
years ago.

You can rip it out and do it right or learn what I learned the same hard way
I did.

The choice is completely yours.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:33:52 -0400, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"bob" wrote in message
.. .
carpet installers are here and ripping up old stuff. flooring is
particle board thick enough to be very rigid

can i put durorock membrane on this for tile?

http://www.durocktilemembrane.com/pr...embrane-9.aspx

I learned my lesson about particle board in kitchens and baths about 30
years ago.

You can rip it out and do it right or learn what I learned the same hard way
I did.

The choice is completely yours.

the bathroom already has particle board...

On 3/28/2011 10:56 PM, bob wrote:
On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:33:52 -0400, "Colbyt"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
carpet installers are here and ripping up old stuff. flooring is
particle board thick enough to be very rigid

can i put durorock membrane on this for tile?

http://www.durocktilemembrane.com/pr...embrane-9.aspx

I learned my lesson about particle board in kitchens and baths about 30
years ago.

You can rip it out and do it right or learn what I learned the same hard way
I did.

The choice is completely yours.

the bathroom already has particle board...

Not saying particle board is correct solution. But I will say, that for
several decades after mud-bed died out, and before backer board became
common, particle board underlayment sealed with I-don't-remember,
covered with grouted tiles held down by mastic, was quite common. Same
for under kitchen vinyl floors, but the PB wasn't sealed, since it
wasn't considered a 'wet' usage. Even in modern times, I've only seen
backer board in a kitchen if they were planning to put down
heavy-but-porous clay tile.

--
aem sends...

On Mar 28, 10:56*pm, bob wrote:
On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 20:33:52 -0400, "Colbyt"









wrote:

"bob" wrote in message
.. .
carpet installers are here and ripping up old stuff. flooring is
particle board thick enough to be very rigid

can i put durorock membrane on this for tile?

http://www.durocktilemembrane.com/pr...embrane-9.aspx

I learned my lesson about particle board in kitchens and baths about 30
years ago.

You can rip it out and do it right or learn what I learned the same hard way
I did.

The choice is completely yours.

the bathroom already has particle board...

To be fair, we don't know if he should have learned setting tile isn't
as easy as it looks on TV.

A bathroom floor is not typically a "wet" environment, but it doesn't
matter what wood you put under tile; if it gets wet it's going to
swell and pffft.

But, it won't get wet if the floor is sound and has the structural
rigidity to maintain the excellent seal of a competent tile job...
that you're probably not going to get anyway.

$400/1.33 sq. ft. seems a tad steep for 300-sq. ft. of "light duty"
membrane (you're going to use how much of?), and I'm not crazy about
it being 3' wide, either, when 6' would provide a seamless application
in most residential baths.

But, a membrane isn't a "pan". If water penetrates the tile, it's
most likely to occur at an edge, of the tub, if there is one. If
there's enough water to flood the floor, it's going to run out the
door.

They're doing marvelous things with new materials, but I think that
stuff is a gimmick.

100% of bathroom floor leaks are due to the shower leaking onto the
floor.*
-----

- gpsman

*Estimate.

On Mar 28, 11:56*am, bob wrote:
carpet installers are here and ripping up old stuff. flooring is
particle board thick enough to be very rigid

can i put durorock membrane on this for tile?

http://www.durocktilemembrane.com/pr...embrane-9.aspx

For my 2c to the original ? I would put 1/2" concrete or fiber backer
on top of your osb subfloor. Use motar and screws every 6 to 8
inches. Lowes has the screws right next to the backer in the tile
department. Do not use the 1/4" backer, use the 1/2". You don't need
"fancy" motar either. The ordinary gray stuff that is under $10 a bag
will do just fine for putting down the backer board. Try to use the
backer board with as few cuts as possible. Do not piece together bits
of backer board to save $10. As you plan the backer board avoid
having the seam between two pieces of backer board coincide with any
seams on the subfloor osb. Also try to not have a tile seam over a
backer board seam. This takes a little extra planning. If you have
left over screws then put them in as well. Stay off it for at least a
day after you put the backer board down. Tile is all about the prep
work. Actually putting the tile it's self down is no big deal. This
has worked well for me many times.

Water will eventually damage any flooring if it has enough time. Osb
will swell. Plywood will swell. Joists will swell. I'm betting your
house is not made of metal. If any of this happens the tile will
crack, come up, and grout break out. Do not caulk around toilets as
this is a common spot to leak and caiulk will simply trap the water
under the toilet where you can't see it. Tubs and shower bases
present a problem. If you don't caulk then spilt water can get under
them. If you do caulk then you are less likely to see a leak that
develops under either of these. It's a no win. Pay attention to your
house. If the bath is on a second floor then be aware of the ceiling
below it. If the bath is on a ground floor then it's not bad idea to
take the occasional look around when some curcumstance causes you to
be in the crawl space.