preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove old
tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game

folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile

when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock floor
membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i KNOW that's
always a mistake), he said this is designed to replace backerboard

it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it protects
against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor. it's stiff
and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane can be cut
with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for backerboard

anyone have experience with this? any recommendations yea or nay?

thanks much

On Mar 25, 2:28*pm, bob wrote:
preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove old
tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game

folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile

when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock floor
membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i KNOW that's
always a mistake), he said this is designed to replace backerboard

it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it protects
against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor. it's stiff
and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane can be cut
with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for backerboard

anyone have experience with this? any recommendations yea or nay?

thanks much

He is WRONG, start fresh for the best job, if cold floors are a issue
they have a electric grid that goes on between the concrete board and
tile

the membrame is good and will minize cracks but first start over.

you wouldnt want to build a new home on the cracked broken footer from
the previous home in that location?

bob haller wrote:
On Mar 25, 2:28 pm, bob wrote:
preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove
old tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game

folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile

when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock floor
membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i KNOW that's
always a mistake), he said this is designed to replace backerboard

it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it
protects against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor.
it's stiff and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane
can be cut with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for
backerboard

anyone have experience with this? any recommendations yea or nay?

thanks much

He is WRONG, start fresh for the best job, if cold floors are a issue
they have a electric grid that goes on between the concrete board and
tile

the membrame is good and will minize cracks but first start over.

you wouldnt want to build a new home on the cracked broken footer from
the previous home in that location?

you haven't defined what is under the the existing tile. what you need to do
to prep the floor is different and dependant upon your situation.

for example, if you have a slab floor and it's been there for years, and
there are no existing cracks, then you don't need either a membrane or
backerboard. if it's a new slab, i'd use the membrane. you don't need
backerboard on any slab.

On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:08:36 -0700, "chaniarts"
wrote:

bob haller wrote:
On Mar 25, 2:28 pm, bob wrote:
preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove
old tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game

folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile

when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock floor
membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i KNOW that's
always a mistake), he said this is designed to replace backerboard

it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it
protects against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor.
it's stiff and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane
can be cut with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for
backerboard

anyone have experience with this? any recommendations yea or nay?

thanks much

He is WRONG, start fresh for the best job, if cold floors are a issue
they have a electric grid that goes on between the concrete board and
tile

the membrame is good and will minize cracks but first start over.

you wouldnt want to build a new home on the cracked broken footer from
the previous home in that location?

you haven't defined what is under the the existing tile. what you need to do
to prep the floor is different and dependant upon your situation.

for example, if you have a slab floor and it's been there for years, and
there are no existing cracks, then you don't need either a membrane or
backerboard. if it's a new slab, i'd use the membrane. you don't need
backerboard on any slab.

this is on an interior bathroom with a wooden floor

On Mar 25, 6:26*pm, bob wrote:
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:08:36 -0700, "chaniarts"
wrote:





bob haller wrote:
On Mar 25, 2:28 pm, bob wrote:
preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove
old tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game

folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile

when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock floor
membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i KNOW that's
always a mistake), he said this is designed to replace backerboard

it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it
protects against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor.
it's stiff and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane
can be cut with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for
backerboard

anyone have experience with this? any recommendations yea or nay?

thanks much

He is WRONG, start fresh for the best job, if cold floors are a issue
they have a electric grid that goes on between the concrete board and
tile

the membrame is good and will minize cracks but first start over.

you wouldnt want to build a new home on the cracked broken footer from
the previous home in that location?

you haven't defined what is under the the existing tile. what you need to do
to prep the floor is different and dependant upon your situation.

for example, if you have a slab floor and it's been there for years, and
there are no existing cracks, then you don't need either a membrane or
backerboard. if it's a new slab, i'd use the membrane. you don't need
backerboard on any slab.

this is on an interior bathroom with a wooden floor- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

take EVERYTHING OFF to the sub floor, make certain its secure and in
good shape, replace any rotted wood check carefully , use concrete
board, seal seams, then use that membrame, then tile

On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:35:43 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Mar 25, 6:26*pm, bob wrote:
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:08:36 -0700, "chaniarts"
wrote:





bob haller wrote:
On Mar 25, 2:28 pm, bob wrote:
preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove
old tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game

folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile

when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock floor
membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i KNOW that's
always a mistake), he said this is designed to replace backerboard

it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it
protects against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor.
it's stiff and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane
can be cut with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for
backerboard

anyone have experience with this? any recommendations yea or nay?

thanks much

He is WRONG, start fresh for the best job, if cold floors are a issue
they have a electric grid that goes on between the concrete board and
tile

the membrame is good and will minize cracks but first start over.

you wouldnt want to build a new home on the cracked broken footer from
the previous home in that location?

you haven't defined what is under the the existing tile. what you need to do
to prep the floor is different and dependant upon your situation.

for example, if you have a slab floor and it's been there for years, and
there are no existing cracks, then you don't need either a membrane or
backerboard. if it's a new slab, i'd use the membrane. you don't need
backerboard on any slab.

this is on an interior bathroom with a wooden floor- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

take EVERYTHING OFF to the sub floor, make certain its secure and in
good shape, replace any rotted wood check carefully , use concrete
board, seal seams, then use that membrame, then tile

makes sense to me...thanks much

bob haller wrote:
On Mar 25, 6:26 pm, bob wrote:
On Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:08:36 -0700, "chaniarts"
wrote:





bob haller wrote:
On Mar 25, 2:28 pm, bob wrote:
preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove
old tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game

folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile

when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock
floor membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i
KNOW that's always a mistake), he said this is designed to
replace backerboard

it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it
protects against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor.
it's stiff and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane
can be cut with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for
backerboard

anyone have experience with this? any recommendations yea or nay?

thanks much

He is WRONG, start fresh for the best job, if cold floors are a
issue they have a electric grid that goes on between the concrete
board and tile

the membrame is good and will minize cracks but first start over.

you wouldnt want to build a new home on the cracked broken footer
from the previous home in that location?

you haven't defined what is under the the existing tile. what you
need to do to prep the floor is different and dependant upon your
situation.

for example, if you have a slab floor and it's been there for
years, and there are no existing cracks, then you don't need either
a membrane or backerboard. if it's a new slab, i'd use the
membrane. you don't need backerboard on any slab.

this is on an interior bathroom with a wooden floor- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

take EVERYTHING OFF to the sub floor, make certain its secure and in
good shape, replace any rotted wood check carefully , use concrete
board, seal seams, then use that membrame, then tile

agreed.

but you'd also want to make sure the subfloor doesn't have any low spots or
that it's thick enough not to deflect.

On Mar 25, 2:28*pm, bob wrote:
preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove old
tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game

folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile

when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock floor
membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i KNOW that's
always a mistake), he said this is designed to replace backerboard

it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it protects
against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor. it's stiff
and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane can be cut
with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for backerboard

anyone have experience with this? any recommendations yea or nay?

thanks much

There are two primary means of tile failure besides impact - flexing
and tensile force. Crack isolation membranes can handle tensile
force (like when bridging a crack in a concrete floor), but will not
necessarily be able to handle flexing, like when a subfloor is not
stiff enough and it deflects between floor joists.

Ask this question over at the John Bridge tile forums. They're
primarily tile pros and have more tile experience than the rank and
file in a home repair forum. I have not used the Durock membrane, but
I imagine that it is their answer to Schlutter's stuff. Schlutter
basically being the gold standard.

R

Bob,

preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove old
tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game
folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile
when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock floor
membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i KNOW that's
always a mistake), he said this is designed to replace backerboard
it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it protects
against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor. it's stiff
and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane can be cut
with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for backerboard

First, strip the old flooring, backerboard, etc. down to the subfloor.

Next, determine if your floor structure is stiff enough to support tile. If
I think there is a calculator over at the John Bridge tiling web site that
you can enter your joist size, spans, etc. and it tells you if the
structure is adequate for tile. If the floor flexes too much, you will end
up with cracks in the grout lines, and potentially cracked tiles.

Assuming the floor structure can support tile, I used 1/4" hardibacker
board. You basically embed it in thinset mortar as you do tile, then screw
it to the subfloor every 6" or so. Then embed mesh tape on the seams before
starting to lay your tile. Be sure to stagger your backer board so you
don't end up with the corners of four sheets meeting in the same place.

In my case, the 1/4" backerboard, 1/4" thick tile, and thinset layers added
up to just about 3/4" total thickness. This matched up perfectly with our
3/4" hardwood flooring for a perfect transition.

Anthony

On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 15:10:55 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

Bob,

preparing to install flooring tile in the bathroom; need to remove old
tile. never done it before so i'm new at the game
folks who know better tell me that once old tile is gone i'll need
backerboard for floor before tile
when i was lowe's today, i saw a new product called 'durorock floor
membrane'. talking with the flooring guy at lowes (yes, i KNOW that's
always a mistake), he said this is designed to replace backerboard
it's a thin epoxy that's placed on the floor. a membrane is then
embedded in the epoxy and this is left to cure. when done, it protects
against cracks caused by up to 1/8" movement in subfloor. it's stiff
and is also waterproof, so good for bathrooms. membrane can be cut
with a razor instead of a sawblade like that needed for backerboard

First, strip the old flooring, backerboard, etc. down to the subfloor.

Next, determine if your floor structure is stiff enough to support tile. If
I think there is a calculator over at the John Bridge tiling web site that
you can enter your joist size, spans, etc. and it tells you if the
structure is adequate for tile. If the floor flexes too much, you will end
up with cracks in the grout lines, and potentially cracked tiles.

Assuming the floor structure can support tile, I used 1/4" hardibacker
board. You basically embed it in thinset mortar as you do tile, then screw
it to the subfloor every 6" or so. Then embed mesh tape on the seams before
starting to lay your tile. Be sure to stagger your backer board so you
don't end up with the corners of four sheets meeting in the same place.

In my case, the 1/4" backerboard, 1/4" thick tile, and thinset layers added
up to just about 3/4" total thickness. This matched up perfectly with our
3/4" hardwood flooring for a perfect transition.

Anthony

perfect! thanks anthony....looks like that's the way to do the job