Hi,

The bottom of my fireplace (that houses a wood burning insert) was lined
with very ugly tile which I decided to replace with a slab of granite
(probably in two pieces). But removing the tile damaged the wet bed as
you can see he

http://freeboundaries.com/fireplacefloor.jpg

Where do I go from here? Should I just pour self leveling concrete on it
(5/8") and put the slab of granite on top or do I remove the wet bed and
start all over?

Many thanks in advance,

Sam

On Feb 20, 12:54*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

The bottom of my fireplace (that houses a wood burning insert) was lined
with very ugly tile which I decided to replace with a slab of granite
(probably in two pieces). But removing the tile damaged the wet bed as
you can see he

http://freeboundaries.com/fireplacefloor.jpg

Where do I go from here? Should I just pour self leveling concrete on it
(5/8") and put the slab of granite on top or do I remove the wet bed and
start all over?

Many thanks in advance,

Sam

If the bed is not that loose, i would just trowel some thinset on it
and just put the granite right on top. Its not like it has to support
a lot of weight or constant traffic. The thinset would probably lock
all the loose bed together.

Mikepier wrote:
On Feb 20, 12:54 pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

The bottom of my fireplace (that houses a wood burning insert) was
lined with very ugly tile which I decided to replace with a slab of
granite (probably in two pieces). But removing the tile damaged the
wet bed as you can see he

http://freeboundaries.com/fireplacefloor.jpg

Where do I go from here? Should I just pour self leveling concrete
on it (5/8") and put the slab of granite on top or do I remove the
wet bed and start all over?

Many thanks in advance,

Sam

If the bed is not that loose, i would just trowel some thinset on it
and just put the granite right on top. Its not like it has to support
a lot of weight or constant traffic. The thinset would probably lock
all the loose bed together.

I agree. you need a strong connection between the granite and the base to
support the granite everywhere. I'd probably use a trowel with larger notches to
apply the thinset, which would makes sure that no parts of the granite are
unsupported.

If the fireplace is ever going to be used without the insert, I'd probably use
firebrick on the inside of the fireplace. The granite would probably crack
quickly.

On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 12:54:35 -0500, Sam Takoy wrote:

Hi,

The bottom of my fireplace (that houses a wood burning insert) was lined
with very ugly tile which I decided to replace with a slab of granite
(probably in two pieces). But removing the tile damaged the wet bed as
you can see he

http://freeboundaries.com/fireplacefloor.jpg

Where do I go from here? Should I just pour self leveling concrete on it
(5/8") and put the slab of granite on top or do I remove the wet bed and
start all over?

I'm not a granite expert (you might ask a dealer) but I'd likely just clean
out what's loose and put a layer of thinset over what's there, and build on
that. I don't think it needs to be 5/8", just make sure there are no high
spots to put stress on the granite.

On Feb 20, 12:54*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

The bottom of my fireplace (that houses a wood burning insert) was lined
with very ugly tile which I decided to replace with a slab of granite
(probably in two pieces). But removing the tile damaged the wet bed as
you can see he

http://freeboundaries.com/fireplacefloor.jpg

Where do I go from here? Should I just pour self leveling concrete on it
(5/8") and put the slab of granite on top or do I remove the wet bed and
start all over?

You're really asking aesthetic questions and how much work do you want
to spend doing it questions.

What you do with the setting bed is dependent on how thick the granite
will be, and whether you want to leave the flooring alone or add wood
reducing molding around the perimeter of the stone to protect the
exposed corners and edges.

Generally speaking, when you aren't facing a critical height
restriction, the procedure is to remove as much of the old setting bed
as you can without going nuts (cold chisel and 3 pound hammer), then
fill it level when you place the setting bed mortar and set the
granite.

If the stone is thicker than the old tile (it will be), then you
either cut down the existing bed or add three pieces of oak trim.
Some people leave the stone sitting proud of the wood, but that's not
a great idea. The exposed edges will get abused and the chips will
make all that hard work look aged quickly. Then again, maybe an aged
look is what you want.

As far as the two pieces of stone, I'm imaging that you mean one
inside the fireplace, and one for the hearth. There's really no
choice in that matter as one piece would almost assuredly crack. If
you meant too pieces for the hearth because of the weight of the stone
and you're setting by yourself or something like that, I'd encourage
getting a local to help you for half an hour.

Should look pretty stellar when you're done. Have fun with it.

R

"Bob F" wrote

If the fireplace is ever going to be used without the insert, I'd probably
use firebrick on the inside of the fireplace. The granite would probably
crack quickly.


A friend of mine owns a granite company. A friend of his did a free video
for him, as he was learning his videography skills. The video shows the
advantages of granite. In one sequence, they take a large propane weed
burner and turn it on the underside of the granite. On top, there is a pan
of water. They get the water to boil vigorously. I know granite is good
stuff. I have owned a lot. But, I don't know what the cracking limits on
it are, I think it may vary heavily with the graining and natural cracks
already there. Still, installed flat, and properly supported, I would think
it would be pretty durable. Just buy pieces with no obvious cracks. Maybe
even the 1.25" thick instead of the .75", too. Some smaller chunks might be
a lot cheaper, too.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Download the book $10
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On 2/20/2011 3:58 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Feb 20, 12:54 pm, Sam wrote:
Hi,

The bottom of my fireplace (that houses a wood burning insert) was lined
with very ugly tile which I decided to replace with a slab of granite
(probably in two pieces). But removing the tile damaged the wet bed as
you can see he

http://freeboundaries.com/fireplacefloor.jpg

Where do I go from here? Should I just pour self leveling concrete on it
(5/8") and put the slab of granite on top or do I remove the wet bed and
start all over?

You're really asking aesthetic questions and how much work do you want
to spend doing it questions.

What you do with the setting bed is dependent on how thick the granite
will be, and whether you want to leave the flooring alone or add wood
reducing molding around the perimeter of the stone to protect the
exposed corners and edges.

Generally speaking, when you aren't facing a critical height
restriction, the procedure is to remove as much of the old setting bed
as you can without going nuts (cold chisel and 3 pound hammer), then
fill it level when you place the setting bed mortar and set the
granite.

If the stone is thicker than the old tile (it will be), then you
either cut down the existing bed or add three pieces of oak trim.
Some people leave the stone sitting proud of the wood, but that's not
a great idea. The exposed edges will get abused and the chips will
make all that hard work look aged quickly. Then again, maybe an aged
look is what you want.

As far as the two pieces of stone, I'm imaging that you mean one
inside the fireplace, and one for the hearth. There's really no
choice in that matter as one piece would almost assuredly crack. If
you meant too pieces for the hearth because of the weight of the stone
and you're setting by yourself or something like that, I'd encourage
getting a local to help you for half an hour.

Should look pretty stellar when you're done. Have fun with it.

R


Thank you for all the enlightening responses!

Please note that I was planning to go with 1.25" granite and that I
would like for it to be sitting above the hardwood and show a rough
edge. So I need to build the wet bed up to the level of the floor.

How come nobody liked my self leveling compound idea?

Thanks again,

Sam

Sam Takoy wrote:

Please note that I was planning to go with 1.25" granite and that I
would like for it to be sitting above the hardwood and show a rough
edge. So I need to build the wet bed up to the level of the floor.

How come nobody liked my self leveling compound idea?


IMO, you need to set the granite into a mortor bed if you want it to last. Not
just set it on top of a bed of "flat" leveling compound.

On Feb 20, 4:38*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
On 2/20/2011 3:58 PM, RicodJour wrote:



On Feb 20, 12:54 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

The bottom of my fireplace (that houses a wood burning insert) was lined
with very ugly tile which I decided to replace with a slab of granite
(probably in two pieces). But removing the tile damaged the wet bed as
you can see he

http://freeboundaries.com/fireplacefloor.jpg

Where do I go from here? Should I just pour self leveling concrete on it
(5/8") and put the slab of granite on top or do I remove the wet bed and
start all over?

You're really asking aesthetic questions and how much work do you want
to spend doing it questions.

What you do with the setting bed is dependent on how thick the granite
will be, and whether you want to leave the flooring alone or add wood
reducing molding around the perimeter of the stone to protect the
exposed corners and edges.

Generally speaking, when you aren't facing a critical height
restriction, the procedure is to remove as much of the old setting bed
as you can without going nuts (cold chisel and 3 pound hammer), then
fill it level when you place the setting bed mortar and set the
granite.

If the stone is thicker than the old tile (it will be), then you
either cut down the existing bed or add three pieces of oak trim.
Some people leave the stone sitting proud of the wood, but that's not
a great idea. *The exposed edges will get abused and the chips will
make all that hard work look aged quickly. *Then again, maybe an aged
look is what you want.

As far as the two pieces of stone, I'm imaging that you mean one
inside the fireplace, and one for the hearth. *There's really no
choice in that matter as one piece would almost assuredly crack. * If
you meant too pieces for the hearth because of the weight of the stone
and you're setting by yourself or something like that, I'd encourage
getting a local to help you for half an hour.

Should look pretty stellar when you're done. *Have fun with it.


Thank you for all the enlightening responses!

Please note that I was planning to go with 1.25" granite and that I
would like for it to be sitting above the hardwood and show a rough
edge. So I need to build the wet bed up to the level of the floor.

You can flame the granite to roughen up the sawed-edge surface.

How come nobody liked my self leveling compound idea?

Because it's more trouble than it's worth.

R

On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 16:38:57 -0500, Sam Takoy wrote:

On 2/20/2011 3:58 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Feb 20, 12:54 pm, Sam wrote:
Hi,

The bottom of my fireplace (that houses a wood burning insert) was lined
with very ugly tile which I decided to replace with a slab of granite
(probably in two pieces). But removing the tile damaged the wet bed as
you can see he

http://freeboundaries.com/fireplacefloor.jpg

Where do I go from here? Should I just pour self leveling concrete on it
(5/8") and put the slab of granite on top or do I remove the wet bed and
start all over?

You're really asking aesthetic questions and how much work do you want
to spend doing it questions.

What you do with the setting bed is dependent on how thick the granite
will be, and whether you want to leave the flooring alone or add wood
reducing molding around the perimeter of the stone to protect the
exposed corners and edges.

Generally speaking, when you aren't facing a critical height
restriction, the procedure is to remove as much of the old setting bed
as you can without going nuts (cold chisel and 3 pound hammer), then
fill it level when you place the setting bed mortar and set the
granite.

If the stone is thicker than the old tile (it will be), then you
either cut down the existing bed or add three pieces of oak trim.
Some people leave the stone sitting proud of the wood, but that's not
a great idea. The exposed edges will get abused and the chips will
make all that hard work look aged quickly. Then again, maybe an aged
look is what you want.

As far as the two pieces of stone, I'm imaging that you mean one
inside the fireplace, and one for the hearth. There's really no
choice in that matter as one piece would almost assuredly crack. If
you meant too pieces for the hearth because of the weight of the stone
and you're setting by yourself or something like that, I'd encourage
getting a local to help you for half an hour.

Should look pretty stellar when you're done. Have fun with it.

R


Thank you for all the enlightening responses!

Please note that I was planning to go with 1.25" granite and that I
would like for it to be sitting above the hardwood and show a rough
edge. So I need to build the wet bed up to the level of the floor.

How come nobody liked my self leveling compound idea?

Mostly because self-leveling isn't necessary. My guess is that it won't
support the granite as well as mortar, either. A mortar bed of whatever
thickness you need to level the stone where you want it should pretty easy to
do.

Steve B wrote:
"Bob F" wrote

If the fireplace is ever going to be used without the insert, I'd
probably use firebrick on the inside of the fireplace. The granite
would probably crack quickly.


A friend of mine owns a granite company. A friend of his did a free
video for him, as he was learning his videography skills. The video
shows the advantages of granite. In one sequence, they take a large
propane weed burner and turn it on the underside of the granite. On
top, there is a pan of water. They get the water to boil vigorously.
I know granite is good stuff. I have owned a lot. But, I don't know
what the cracking limits on it are, I think it may vary heavily with
the graining and natural cracks already there. Still, installed
flat, and properly supported, I would think it would be pretty
durable. Just buy pieces with no obvious cracks. Maybe even the
1.25" thick instead of the .75", too. Some smaller chunks might be a
lot cheaper, too.

The problems I would think relates to constant variations in heat to different
parts of the slab. Expansion/contraction is going to take its toll. Even
firebrick gives out eventually in many cases.

On Feb 20, 5:32*pm, "
wrote:
On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 16:38:57 -0500, Sam Takoy wrote:

Please note that I was planning to go with 1.25" granite and that I
would like for it to be sitting above the hardwood and show a rough
edge. So I need to build the wet bed up to the level of the floor.

How come nobody liked my self leveling compound idea?

Mostly because self-leveling isn't necessary. *My guess is that it won't
support the granite as well as mortar, either. *A mortar bed of whatever
thickness you need to level the stone where you want it should pretty easy to
do.

The compressive strength of self-leveling floor compound is usually
two or three times that of your average mortar.

R

On 2/20/2011 10:04 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Feb 20, 5:32 pm, "
wrote:
On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 16:38:57 -0500, Sam wrote:

Please note that I was planning to go with 1.25" granite and that I
would like for it to be sitting above the hardwood and show a rough
edge. So I need to build the wet bed up to the level of the floor.

How come nobody liked my self leveling compound idea?

Mostly because self-leveling isn't necessary. My guess is that it won't
support the granite as well as mortar, either. A mortar bed of whatever
thickness you need to level the stone where you want it should pretty easy to
do.

The compressive strength of self-leveling floor compound is usually
two or three times that of your average mortar.

R

Is that a vote in its favor?

On Feb 21, 5:13*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
On 2/20/2011 10:04 PM, RicodJour wrote:



On Feb 20, 5:32 pm, "
*wrote:
On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 16:38:57 -0500, Sam *wrote:

Please note that I was planning to go with 1.25" granite and that I
would like for it to be sitting above the hardwood and show a rough
edge. So I need to build the wet bed up to the level of the floor.

How come nobody liked my self leveling compound idea?

Mostly because self-leveling isn't necessary. *My guess is that it won't
support the granite as well as mortar, either. *A mortar bed of whatever
thickness you need to level the stone where you want it should pretty easy to
do.

The compressive strength of self-leveling floor compound is usually
two or three times that of your average mortar.


Is that a vote in its favor?

No, that's a single factor, but what I wrote earlier, "Because it's
more trouble than it's worth." still applies. There's no load to
speak of on a heath stone, so any setting bed at all would have enough
strength. You could use plaster of paris if you wanted to.

What's the big deal about mixing up a bag or mortar? It's Play Doh
fer cryin' out loud! The longer working time and greater body is to
your benefit, and it's cheaper and more forgiving than the self-
leveling stuff.

- Make a screed by cutting a straight piece of 1x3 that is two inches
longer than the width of the hearth stone opening in the wood
flooring.
- Calculate how far you want the bottom of the stone to be below the
top of the wood flooring, and add 1/4".
- Then cut a ~1" notch in either end of the wood screed 1x4 that will
hold the bottom of the screed at the level you calculated above. Test
the screed in the opening to make sure it moves smoothly and doesn't
bind.
- Cover the exposed sides of the wood flooring with painter's tape,
tape cardboard around the hearth stone opening extending ~12", and
cover the surrounding area with drop cloths.
- Place mortar, use the screed to level off the surface by scraping it
back and forth. Remove the excess mortar with a trowel and paying
particular attention to the level where it abuts the wood flooring
(covered with tape), fill in any low areas and give the surface a
quick smoothing with the trowel. The surface does not have to be
perfect, but there should be no high spots.
- Let the mortar set for a day or two, then place the hearth stone in
a mortar or thinset setting bed using a 1/2" x 1/2" notched trowel -
that will provide you with the ~1/4" setting bed when it's held at a
30 degree angle.

It's an hour or two job all in.

R