An article on installing crown molding suggested a way to install the
last piece of crown molding with only one coped end. The article is
he

http://www.portamate.com/plans/Plans...ownMolding.pdf

The top of page 5 describes the method. I have never thought of or
done this but the idea sounds great. Basically you start in a corner
by tacking a short scrap of crown molding with the proper angle and
fit the first piece of molding up to the scrap. You work your way
around the room. For the last piece of crown you remove the piece of
scrap so then the final piece of crown only needs one coped end.

Any thoughts on this matter? If this standard practice?

Thank you for any help!

andyeverett wrote the following:
An article on installing crown molding suggested a way to install the
last piece of crown molding with only one coped end. The article is
he

http://www.portamate.com/plans/Plans...ownMolding.pdf

The top of page 5 describes the method. I have never thought of or
done this but the idea sounds great. Basically you start in a corner
by tacking a short scrap of crown molding with the proper angle and
fit the first piece of molding up to the scrap. You work your way
around the room. For the last piece of crown you remove the piece of
scrap so then the final piece of crown only needs one coped end.

Any thoughts on this matter? If this standard practice?

Thank you for any help!


All my moulding, crown or base, is installed with only one coped end.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 07:09:01 -0800 (PST), andyeverett
wrote:

An article on installing crown molding suggested a way to install the
last piece of crown molding with only one coped end. The article is
he

http://www.portamate.com/plans/Plans...ownMolding.pdf

The top of page 5 describes the method. I have never thought of or
done this but the idea sounds great. Basically you start in a corner
by tacking a short scrap of crown molding with the proper angle and
fit the first piece of molding up to the scrap. You work your way
around the room. For the last piece of crown you remove the piece of
scrap so then the final piece of crown only needs one coped end.

Any thoughts on this matter? If this standard practice?

Thank you for any help!

That's a good article.
Page 3 gets to the heart of the matter with "upside-down and
backwards."
I ran up false paths when I started doing my 3 rooms, with all kinds
of angle measurement and saw setting methods.
With upside down and backwards on the fence all you need is 45 for
corners and 90 for butts.
I don't know what "standard practice" is.
Didn't cope any corners. But you only cope one end of a piece for any
inside corner.
My walls are almost square and I managed to get it done with a cheap
power saw with only minor gaps that I filled.
However you do it, lay out the wood at the store to get a grain match
where you will butt.
Mismatched grain at the butts is the worse part of mine.
You don't even notice what I filled at the corners unless you get
close and stare.
The butts are really noticeable.
Damn, wish you didn't remind me.

--Vic

On Feb 16, 11:06*am, Vic Smith
wrote:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 07:09:01 -0800 (PST), andyeverett





wrote:
An article on installing crown molding suggested a way to install the
last piece of crown molding with only one coped end. The article is
he

http://www.portamate.com/plans/Plans...ownMolding.pdf

The top of page 5 describes the method. I have never thought of or
done this but the idea sounds great. Basically you start in a corner
by tacking a short scrap of crown molding with the proper angle and
fit the first piece of molding up to the scrap. You work your way
around the room. For the last piece of crown you remove the piece of
scrap so then the final piece of crown only needs one coped end.

Any thoughts on this matter? If this standard practice?

Thank you for any help!

That's a good article.
Page 3 gets to the heart of the matter with "upside-down and
backwards."
I ran up false paths when I started doing my 3 rooms, with all kinds
of angle measurement and saw setting methods.
With upside down and backwards on the fence all you need is 45 for
corners and 90 for butts.
I don't know what "standard practice" is.
Didn't cope any corners. *But you only cope one end of a piece for any
inside corner.
My walls are almost square and I managed to get it done with a cheap
power saw with only minor gaps that I filled.
However you do it, lay out the wood at the store to get a grain match
where you will butt.
Mismatched grain at the butts is the worse part of mine.
You don't even notice what I filled at the corners unless you get
close and stare.
The butts are really noticeable.
Damn, wish you didn't remind me.


I thought that butts were cut at 45 as well?

nate

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 11:05:42 -0800 (PST), N8N
wrote:



I thought that butts were cut at 45 as well?


I've seen that suggested. It'll spread the grain transition over a
wider area. You'll still see it.
Grain matching on a long flat run is most important.
The corners go in different directions, with different lighting and
sight angles, so grain mismatch is basically invisible there.
That's how it looks to me anyway.

--Vic

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 11:05:42 -0800 (PST), N8N
wrote:

On Feb 16, 11:06*am, Vic Smith
wrote:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 07:09:01 -0800 (PST), andyeverett





wrote:
An article on installing crown molding suggested a way to install the
last piece of crown molding with only one coped end. The article is
he

http://www.portamate.com/plans/Plans...ownMolding.pdf

The top of page 5 describes the method. I have never thought of or
done this but the idea sounds great. Basically you start in a corner
by tacking a short scrap of crown molding with the proper angle and
fit the first piece of molding up to the scrap. You work your way
around the room. For the last piece of crown you remove the piece of
scrap so then the final piece of crown only needs one coped end.

Any thoughts on this matter? If this standard practice?

Thank you for any help!

That's a good article.
Page 3 gets to the heart of the matter with "upside-down and
backwards."
I ran up false paths when I started doing my 3 rooms, with all kinds
of angle measurement and saw setting methods.
With upside down and backwards on the fence all you need is 45 for
corners and 90 for butts.
I don't know what "standard practice" is.
Didn't cope any corners. *But you only cope one end of a piece for any
inside corner.
My walls are almost square and I managed to get it done with a cheap
power saw with only minor gaps that I filled.
However you do it, lay out the wood at the store to get a grain match
where you will butt.
Mismatched grain at the butts is the worse part of mine.
You don't even notice what I filled at the corners unless you get
close and stare.
The butts are really noticeable.
Damn, wish you didn't remind me.


I thought that butts were cut at 45 as well?

nate

I guess you cut it that way?

Look a the bottom of page 6, photo 1 & 2

_BACKCUT FOR CLEARANCE_