Nice weather for a change, so I'm tearing off half the roof and
reshingling. I've avoided reroofing this because of the 3 to 6 layers up
there!

This is all '29 and is boards. Atlanta.

I've got 4 square of WSU to put in the valley and the eaves. Should
that also go on the rake edge?

Should I put down flashing under the WSU in the valley?

Will I have any trouble with my nail gun and the boards? There are a
lot more seams in board roofing.

I'll be putting down drip edge. Should the shingles extend 1/2"
beyond that? Rake and Eaves?

Underlayment is in good shape except for the bottom of the valley
near the eave. OSB is not OK? Plywood? Amazingly no felt paper. But felt
paper was never required here. I'll be putting down 15#.

I'll be using cut valleys, which seems to be the norm here. Anything
else I should be careful of?

Jeff

On Jan 28, 8:04*am, Jeff Thies wrote:
* *Nice weather for a change, so I'm tearing off half the roof and
reshingling. I've avoided reroofing this because of the 3 to 6 layers up
there!

* *This is all '29 and is boards. Atlanta.

* *I've got 4 square of WSU to put in the valley and the eaves. Should
that also go on the rake edge?

* *Should I put down flashing under the WSU in the valley?

* *Will I have any trouble with my nail gun and the boards? There are a
lot more seams in board roofing.

* *I'll be putting down drip edge. Should the shingles extend 1/2"
beyond that? Rake and Eaves?

* *Underlayment is in good shape except for the bottom of the valley
near the eave. OSB is not OK? Plywood? Amazingly no felt paper. But felt
paper was never required here. I'll be putting down 15#.

* *I'll be using cut valleys, which seems to be the norm here. Anything
else I should be careful of?

* *Jeff

Check out the new plastic felt replacements. Stuff is perfect for slow
roofers (DIY) as it tolerates months of exposure. Much better and
safer to walk around on, too. Seems to be the material choice around
here (central midwest). The only roofing I've seen with ordinary felt
in the last two years has been a prebuilt garage. Use plywood whenever
possible (holds nails better) and Grace watershield in all the right
places, valleys, etc. Locally, woven valleys are the norm for better
wind resistance, I suppose. Also, thick tab shingles have replaced all
the old skinny ones except on tract houses in the outer developments
being peddled to kids that don't know any better.
Have your shingle supplier deliver the bundles to the roof top to save
you time and grief. Your vertebrae will appreciate it.

Joe

On 1/28/2011 1:15 PM, Joe wrote:
On Jan 28, 8:04 am, Jeff wrote:
Nice weather for a change, so I'm tearing off half the roof and
reshingling. I've avoided reroofing this because of the 3 to 6 layers up
there!

This is all '29 and is boards. Atlanta.

I've got 4 square of WSU to put in the valley and the eaves. Should
that also go on the rake edge?

Should I put down flashing under the WSU in the valley?

Will I have any trouble with my nail gun and the boards? There are a
lot more seams in board roofing.

I'll be putting down drip edge. Should the shingles extend 1/2"
beyond that? Rake and Eaves?

Underlayment is in good shape except for the bottom of the valley
near the eave. OSB is not OK? Plywood? Amazingly no felt paper. But felt
paper was never required here. I'll be putting down 15#.

I'll be using cut valleys, which seems to be the norm here. Anything
else I should be careful of?

Jeff

Check out the new plastic felt replacements. Stuff is perfect for slow
roofers (DIY) as it tolerates months of exposure.

It doesn't seem to be popular here. I looked into it and the roofing
supply sold me 15# felt. Oddly, the city requires nothing. The roof is
not steep, few snow loads, so that may be why. Maybe I'll do the other
half in it, if I find it!

Much better and
safer to walk around on, too. Seems to be the material choice around
here (central midwest). The only roofing I've seen with ordinary felt
in the last two years has been a prebuilt garage. Use plywood whenever
possible (holds nails better)

OK.

and Grace watershield in all the right
places, valleys, etc.

Grace is a special order here. Got something the supply house said was
about as good, and a lot less expensive.

Locally, woven valleys are the norm for better
wind resistance, I suppose. Also, thick tab shingles have replaced all
the old skinny ones except on tract houses in the outer developments
being peddled to kids that don't know any better.

I've got 25 square of architectural coming in the morning.
$50/square. 30 year. Sounds cheap to me. $60 to deliver it through a
third party. Some kind of builders surplus or such...


Have your shingle supplier deliver the bundles to the roof top to save
you time and grief. Your vertebrae will appreciate it.

I'm sure! And I wish! I've got a pair of "Slims" helping. I'm doing
half at a time. I've got a "dog house" on the other side. The roof sinks
in toward this and I think I'll either have to jack it up or use lots of
WSU.

Thanks,
Jeff



Joe

On Jan 28, 9:04*am, Jeff Thies wrote:

* *Nice weather for a change, so I'm tearing off half the roof and
reshingling. I've avoided reroofing this because of the 3 to 6 layers up
there!

That's only a few more layers than the maximum you're supposed to
have. I don't think I've ever seen more than four. Maybe that's
because after that the roof tends to sit down on the job!

* *This is all '29 and is boards. Atlanta.

* *I've got 4 square of WSU to put in the valley and the eaves. Should
that also go on the rake edge?

It's not a bad idea. Wind-driven rain can get under the shingles
sometimes, but it's not a big risk in general. Just remember that the
drip edge goes under the underlayment at the eaves, and on top of the
underlayment at the rake edges.

* *Should I put down flashing under the WSU in the valley?

Flashing? You mean like metal flashing? Metal flashing usually goes
over the adhesive membrane and is left exposed, as in an open valley.
I think when you say cut valley, you're talking about a closed valley
where only one side is cut, right? That's called a closed cut
valley. Just want to make sure we understand each others' terms. A
closed cut valley does not need or benefit from metal flashing. Just
line the valley with self-adhesive membrane, and then shingle.

BTW, the acronym WSU threw me. If you Google it you'll see there are
very, very few hits for WSU that don't have to do with a university.

* *Will I have any trouble with my nail gun and the boards? There are a
lot more seams in board roofing.

The odds are better than fair to middling that you will find a gap
between boards lining up with your preferred roofing nail location
line. If you have to move the nail line a little further up, it's
probably not a problem unless you're in a high wind area.

* *I'll be putting down drip edge. Should the shingles extend 1/2"
beyond that? Rake and Eaves?

Yes. Yes.

* *Underlayment is in good shape except for the bottom of the valley
near the eave. OSB is not OK? Plywood? Amazingly no felt paper. But felt
paper was never required here. I'll be putting down 15#.

You're confusing some terms. Sheathing is the plywood or OSB.
Underlayment is either 15# (or 30#) building paper, or self-adhesive
membrane such as Ice & Water Shield.

* *I'll be using cut valleys, which seems to be the norm here. Anything
else I should be careful of?

Follow the directions on the shingle bundles and it's pretty much a
piece of cake. Code usually defers to the shingle manufacturers'
instructions. The only places you'll run into some head-scratching is
around the dormer you mentioned in your subsequent post. Most likely
what happened with that doghouse dormer is that they didn't double up
the rafters at the dormer side walls, or even more likely, all of that
extra weight of those extra layers has exceeded the rafters' design
capacity. Not sure if you realize how extreme you situation is, but
those extra layers are well beyond your roof design loads. Codes used
to allow three layers, and now most jurisdictions don't allow more
than one additional layer before you have to strip the roof down to
the sheathing.

BTW, you won't find a single shingle manufacturer that does not
require underlayment. If you omit the underlayment you automatically
void your warranty.

R

On 1/28/2011 8:26 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 28, 9:04 am, Jeff wrote:

Nice weather for a change, so I'm tearing off half the roof and
reshingling. I've avoided reroofing this because of the 3 to 6 layers up
there!

That's only a few more layers than the maximum you're supposed to
have. I don't think I've ever seen more than four. Maybe that's
because after that the roof tends to sit down on the job!

Yeah, I know. Everyone who looked at it says: "Wow." I've previously
down good bits of it, mostly on the side with dog house I'm doing later.

snip

You're confusing some terms. Sheathing is the plywood or OSB.
Underlayment is either 15# (or 30#) building paper, or self-adhesive
membrane such as Ice& Water Shield.

I'm thinking of running the ice dam around all the edges and down the
valley, and then covering the remainder with 15# felt with some overlap
over the ice dam. Does that sound about right? Or should I run the felt
over the ice dam except in the valley?

BTW, I wound up using the plywood I had which I had on hand. One of the
Slims cut it up while I was picking up the shingles. There's a half
sheet of oak up there with some cheaper birch. Slaps head!@#


I'll be using cut valleys, which seems to be the norm here. Anything
else I should be careful of?

Follow the directions on the shingle bundles and it's pretty much a
piece of cake. Code usually defers to the shingle manufacturers'
instructions. The only places you'll run into some head-scratching is
around the dormer you mentioned in your subsequent post. Most likely
what happened with that doghouse dormer is that they didn't double up
the rafters at the dormer side walls, or even more likely, all of that
extra weight of those extra layers has exceeded the rafters' design
capacity.


This part of the roof I did long ago. It is only 1 layer. And I think it
is just one rafter for each wall. I'll post up questions on this later.
I've certainly thrown a lot of tar and shingle and flashing against
the dog house to little avail. Getting the water to run away from the
dormer is a better idea, I think. That and ice shield which I didn't
know about then.

Not sure if you realize how extreme you situation is, but
those extra layers are well beyond your roof design loads. Codes used
to allow three layers, and now most jurisdictions don't allow more
than one additional layer before you have to strip the roof down to
the sheathing.

BTW, you won't find a single shingle manufacturer that does not
require underlayment. If you omit the underlayment you automatically
void your warranty.

OK.

I think I did good with the shingles. 35 year Atlas Pinnacle (made here
in Atlanta last November, with algae protection) for $50/square. That's
better than I was expecting!

Thanks.

Jeff

R