Hello,

Lots of good advice on my previous Post regarding the damage from a
pinhole leak in Copper water pipe in my ceiling. Much thanks to all.
Tis is really a great Forum.

Would probably be willing to try re-plastering the damaged section
myself to save some $. So, the following questions, please:

Obviously, I cut out the water damaged section first.
This is on the ceiling.

a. Can I assume that I got all of it, or should I put some shellac, or
something, over the raw drywall edges ?

Is the ceiling probably made from what is called Drywall, or is it
termed Plasterboard, or... ?
BTW: 35 year old house.

b. There seem to be many, many, spackling type of products available.
I'm not even sure that Spackling Compound is the right product word for
what I want to do.

The damaged section, after being cleaned out, and removed, is
about 6" wide by perhaps 18" length.

What product do I want to use ?
Brand, etc.? Very specific suggestions would be appreciated.

c. I guess I have to put something in the cutout first, to have a
semi-rigid "something" to push the spackle, or whatever, against.
I read about the trick of using a board, with a light cord to hold it
down, wedged into the hole.
And about using crushed newspaper, etc.
How would a Professional Plasterer go about it ?

In this modern day age of ours, how is this handled ?
I think I really need something in the hold to push the spackle against,
don't I ?

Any hints, or thoughts on doing all this would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

On Jan 26, 2:35*pm, Bob wrote:
Hello,

Lots of good advice on my previous Post regarding the damage from a
pinhole leak in Copper water pipe in my ceiling. Much thanks to all.
Tis is really a great Forum.

Would probably be willing to try re-plastering the damaged section
myself to save some $. *So, the following questions, please:

Obviously, I cut out the water damaged section first.
This is on the ceiling.

a. Can I assume that I got all of it, or should I put some shellac, or
something, over the raw drywall edges ?

Is the ceiling probably made from what is called Drywall, or is it
termed Plasterboard, or... ?
BTW: *35 year old house.

b. There seem to be many, many, spackling type of products available.
I'm not even sure that Spackling Compound is the right product word for
what I want to do.

The damaged section, after being cleaned out, and removed, is
about 6" wide by perhaps 18" length.

What product do I want to use ?
Brand, etc.? *Very specific suggestions would be appreciated.

c. I guess I have to put something in the cutout first, to have a
semi-rigid "something" to push the spackle, or whatever, against.
I read about the trick of using a board, with a light cord to hold it
down, wedged into the hole.
And about using crushed newspaper, etc.
How would a Professional Plasterer go about it ?

In this modern day age of ours, how is this handled ?
I think I really need something in the hold to push the spackle against,
don't I ?

Any hints, or thoughts on doing all this would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Put a 20 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood thru the hole,
diagonally so it will go thru, and then rotate it so that it covers
the hole. Use 4 drywall or sheetrock, they're both the same, screws
in the 4 sides to hold the plywood in place. A drywall screw in the
middle of the plywood before putting it thrui the hole will make it
easier to position and hold until the 4 perimeter screws are in place,
then remove the handle. Now cut a piece of new drywall to fit the
opening, and use 4 drywall screws to screw the new drywall to the
plywood. Use some drywall compound, any brand will do, mixed with a
little white glue and force it into the seam between the old and new
drywall. Wait overnight for that to dry, and then tape the seam and
mud over the patch until it blends in with the rest of the ceiling.
Any brand of drywall mud is fine, the trick is to use several layers
and sand between each layer. A light held to the side but close to
the ceiling will show any irregularities. A couple of coats of paint
and you will be a hero.

hr(bob) wrote:

Put a 20 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood thru the hole,
diagonally so it will go thru, and then rotate it so that it covers
the hole. Use 4 drywall or sheetrock, they're both the same, screws
in the 4 sides to hold the plywood in place. A drywall screw in the
middle of the plywood before putting it thrui the hole will make it
easier to position and hold until the 4 perimeter screws are in place,
then remove the handle. Now cut a piece of new drywall to fit the
opening, and use 4 drywall screws to screw the new drywall to the
plywood. Use some drywall compound, any brand will do, mixed with a
little white glue and force it into the seam between the old and new
drywall. Wait overnight for that to dry, and then tape the seam and
mud over the patch until it blends in with the rest of the ceiling.
Any brand of drywall mud is fine, the trick is to use several layers
and sand between each layer. A light held to the side but close to
the ceiling will show any irregularities. A couple of coats of paint
and you will be a hero.

Yes, what he said.

And, here are some YouTube videos describing the same basic technique:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pedAiIzFZhM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w2ac118Fho

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW64rfhNQM

I don't know about the part where it says to add salt to the mix to make it
dry fast. I never heard of that one before.

On Jan 26, 3:04*pm, "RogerT" wrote:
hr(bob) wrote:

Put a 20 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood thru the hole,
diagonally so it will go thru, and then rotate it so that it covers
the hole. *Use 4 drywall or sheetrock, they're both the same, screws
in the 4 sides to hold the plywood in place. *A drywall screw in the
middle of the plywood before putting it thrui the hole will make it
easier to position and hold until the 4 perimeter screws are in place,
then remove the handle. * Now cut a piece of new drywall to fit the
opening, and use 4 drywall screws to screw the new drywall to the
plywood. *Use some drywall compound, any brand will do, mixed with a
little white glue and force it into the seam between the old and new
drywall. *Wait overnight for that to dry, and then tape the seam and
mud over the patch until it blends in with the rest of the ceiling.
Any brand of drywall mud is fine, *the trick is to use several layers
and sand between each layer. *A light held to the side but close to
the ceiling will show any irregularities. *A couple of coats of paint
and you will be a hero.

Yes, what he said.

And, here are some YouTube videos describing the same basic technique:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pedAiIzFZhM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w2ac118Fho

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW64rfhNQM

I don't know about the part where it says to add salt to the mix to make it
dry fast. *I never heard of that one before.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I wouldn't add salt, it might weaken the mud. Just be patient. Or,
you could set up a fan to blow on the area to speed up the drying
proces. But, it the mud is very thick/deep, the surface can dry while
the lower (or in your case -upper) layers of mud are still damp..
Then when you sand all hell will break loose.

On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 13:12:09 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Jan 26, 3:04*pm, "RogerT" wrote:
hr(bob) wrote:

Put a 20 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood thru the hole,
diagonally so it will go thru, and then rotate it so that it covers
the hole. *Use 4 drywall or sheetrock, they're both the same, screws
in the 4 sides to hold the plywood in place. *A drywall screw in the
middle of the plywood before putting it thrui the hole will make it
easier to position and hold until the 4 perimeter screws are in place,
then remove the handle. * Now cut a piece of new drywall to fit the
opening, and use 4 drywall screws to screw the new drywall to the
plywood. *Use some drywall compound, any brand will do, mixed with a
little white glue and force it into the seam between the old and new
drywall. *Wait overnight for that to dry, and then tape the seam and
mud over the patch until it blends in with the rest of the ceiling.
Any brand of drywall mud is fine, *the trick is to use several layers
and sand between each layer. *A light held to the side but close to
the ceiling will show any irregularities. *A couple of coats of paint
and you will be a hero.

Yes, what he said.

And, here are some YouTube videos describing the same basic technique:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pedAiIzFZhM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w2ac118Fho

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW64rfhNQM

I don't know about the part where it says to add salt to the mix to make it
dry fast. *I never heard of that one before.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I wouldn't add salt, it might weaken the mud. Just be patient. Or,
you could set up a fan to blow on the area to speed up the drying
proces. But, it the mud is very thick/deep, the surface can dry while
the lower (or in your case -upper) layers of mud are still damp..
Then when you sand all hell will break loose.

Build the mud up/out in thin layers. They dry faster -- ready for some
more finesse.

install a access panel to be ready for the next leak. just lift it out
when needed..

On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 13:37:59 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

install a access panel to be ready for the next leak. just lift it out
when needed..

Or he can patch the ceiling and then not have a conversation piece
above the dining table. Right?

"RogerT" wrote in message
...
hr(bob) wrote:

Put a 20 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood thru the hole,
diagonally so it will go thru, and then rotate it so that it covers
the hole. Use 4 drywall or sheetrock, they're both the same, screws
in the 4 sides to hold the plywood in place. A drywall screw in the
middle of the plywood before putting it thrui the hole will make it
easier to position and hold until the 4 perimeter screws are in place,
then remove the handle. Now cut a piece of new drywall to fit the
opening, and use 4 drywall screws to screw the new drywall to the
plywood. Use some drywall compound, any brand will do, mixed with a
little white glue and force it into the seam between the old and new
drywall. Wait overnight for that to dry, and then tape the seam and
mud over the patch until it blends in with the rest of the ceiling.
Any brand of drywall mud is fine, the trick is to use several layers
and sand between each layer. A light held to the side but close to
the ceiling will show any irregularities. A couple of coats of paint
and you will be a hero.

Yes, what he said.

And, here are some YouTube videos describing the same basic technique:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pedAiIzFZhM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w2ac118Fho

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW64rfhNQM

I don't know about the part where it says to add salt to the mix to make
it dry fast. I never heard of that one before.




Buy a bag of 45 minute setting mud in powdered form. It will set enough of
the next coat in 45 minutes.

He http://househomerepair.com/57-The-Ma...-Compound.html

Spackle is for nailholes mud is for cracks and drywall. You can do this if
you take your time. It is a lot easier to add another coat than it is to
sand that stuff.

Colbyt

RogerT wrote:

hr(bob) wrote:

Put a 20 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood thru the hole,
diagonally so it will go thru, and then rotate it so that it covers
the hole. Use 4 drywall or sheetrock, they're both the same, screws
in the 4 sides to hold the plywood in place. A drywall screw in the
middle of the plywood before putting it thrui the hole will make it
easier to position and hold until the 4 perimeter screws are in place,
then remove the handle. Now cut a piece of new drywall to fit the
opening, and use 4 drywall screws to screw the new drywall to the
plywood. Use some drywall compound, any brand will do, mixed with a
little white glue and force it into the seam between the old and new
drywall. Wait overnight for that to dry, and then tape the seam and
mud over the patch until it blends in with the rest of the ceiling.
Any brand of drywall mud is fine, the trick is to use several layers
and sand between each layer. A light held to the side but close to
the ceiling will show any irregularities. A couple of coats of paint
and you will be a hero.

Yes, what he said.

And, here are some YouTube videos describing the same basic technique:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pedAiIzFZhM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w2ac118Fho

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW64rfhNQM

I don't know about the part where it says to add salt to the mix to make it
dry fast. I never heard of that one before.



I highly recommend using a setting type drywall compound for patching.
They come in several different set times, just use the one you are most
comfortable with, all are vastly faster than the drying type pre-mixed
compound. I used the 30 minute variety the last time I had a bunch of
work to do and by the time I finished going around the room with the
first coat, it was just about ready to sand where I had started.

On Jan 26, 3:59*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"RogerT" wrote in message

...





hr(bob) wrote:

Put a 20 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood thru the hole,
diagonally so it will go thru, and then rotate it so that it covers
the hole. *Use 4 drywall or sheetrock, they're both the same, screws
in the 4 sides to hold the plywood in place. *A drywall screw in the
middle of the plywood before putting it thrui the hole will make it
easier to position and hold until the 4 perimeter screws are in place,
then remove the handle. * Now cut a piece of new drywall to fit the
opening, and use 4 drywall screws to screw the new drywall to the
plywood. *Use some drywall compound, any brand will do, mixed with a
little white glue and force it into the seam between the old and new
drywall. *Wait overnight for that to dry, and then tape the seam and
mud over the patch until it blends in with the rest of the ceiling.
Any brand of drywall mud is fine, *the trick is to use several layers
and sand between each layer. *A light held to the side but close to
the ceiling will show any irregularities. *A couple of coats of paint
and you will be a hero.

Yes, what he said.

And, here are some YouTube videos describing the same basic technique:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pedAiIzFZhM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w2ac118Fho

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW64rfhNQM

I don't know about the part where it says to add salt to the mix to make
it dry fast. *I never heard of that one before.

Buy a bag of 45 minute setting mud in powdered form. *It will set enough of
the next coat in *45 minutes.

He *http://househomerepair.com/57-The-Ma...Compound..html

Spackle is for nailholes mud is for cracks and drywall. *You can do this if
you take your time. *It is a lot easier to add another coat than it is to
sand that stuff.

Colbyt- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A great site for the beginner!!!

On Jan 26, 5:12*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
RogerT wrote:

hr(bob) wrote:

Put a 20 x 10 inch piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood thru the hole,
diagonally so it will go thru, and then rotate it so that it covers
the hole. *Use 4 drywall or sheetrock, they're both the same, screws
in the 4 sides to hold the plywood in place. *A drywall screw in the
middle of the plywood before putting it thrui the hole will make it
easier to position and hold until the 4 perimeter screws are in place,
then remove the handle. * Now cut a piece of new drywall to fit the
opening, and use 4 drywall screws to screw the new drywall to the
plywood. *Use some drywall compound, any brand will do, mixed with a
little white glue and force it into the seam between the old and new
drywall. *Wait overnight for that to dry, and then tape the seam and
mud over the patch until it blends in with the rest of the ceiling.
Any brand of drywall mud is fine, *the trick is to use several layers
and sand between each layer. *A light held to the side but close to
the ceiling will show any irregularities. *A couple of coats of paint
and you will be a hero.

Yes, what he said.

And, here are some YouTube videos describing the same basic technique:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pedAiIzFZhM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w2ac118Fho

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW64rfhNQM

I don't know about the part where it says to add salt to the mix to make it
dry fast. *I never heard of that one before.

I highly recommend using a setting type drywall compound for patching.
They come in several different set times, just use the one you are most
comfortable with, all are vastly faster than the drying type pre-mixed
compound. I used the 30 minute variety the last time I had a bunch of
work to do and by the time I finished going around the room with the
first coat, it was just about ready to sand where I had started.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When making a repair like this, the easiest thing to do is to cut the
opening
out so that you have access to some of the joists that are already
there to screw
in a new piece of drywall. Assuming, it's drywall you have. Google
is your
friend. You also have the option of first screwing a couple pieces
of
wood that is about 1 x 1 or so to one or more existing joists. Then
you can screw
the new piece of drywall to the new wood or existing joists, etc
depending
on what you have to work with, how the joists run, etc. Use drywall
screws.

Then you apply tape over the joints, I prefer the sticky mesh type
tape, and then apply
drywall mud into and over it. As pointed out, there are a variety of
choices for
that. I generally use standard joint compound, but if you want to do
it
quickly and don't want to wait for it to dry overnight, etc, there are
faster
setting versions.

One thing you definitely need is a wide drywall kife. Looks like a
big, wide
putty knife, like 14" wide. That is essential to taper out the final
coat and
make it blend into the existing ceiling. Google and I'm sure you'll
find how to
do it videos. Essentially, you need 3 coats. First is to go over
the tape
that covers the joints. NExt coat is wider, and last coat is where
the 14"
knife comes in.

I prefer to wet sand it with a sanding sponge instead of dry sanding
it to
avoid the dust.

On Jan 26, 4:50*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 13:37:59 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:
install a access panel to be ready for the next leak. just lift it out
when needed..

Or he can patch the ceiling and then not have a conversation piece
above the dining table. Right?

you sound like my wife... X wife.

I have a kitchen cieling with bathroom directly above it

since I moved here in 1972 there have been at least 5 or 6 holes in
cieling. to fix a variety of leaks....

A access panel sold at home depot is much more convenient.

Replastering cieling is like welding the hood of your vehice shut for
appearance sake....... yep you can do it, but just opening the hood is
a lot easier..

On Thu, 27 Jan 2011 04:24:15 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Jan 26, 4:50*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 13:37:59 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:
install a access panel to be ready for the next leak. just lift it out
when needed..

Or he can patch the ceiling and then not have a conversation piece
above the dining table. Right?

you sound like my wife... X wife.

Now you've heard it twice.


I have a kitchen cieling with bathroom directly above it

since I moved here in 1972 there have been at least 5 or 6 holes in
cieling. to fix a variety of leaks....

A access panel sold at home depot is much more convenient.


Panels are great -- in the right location. I cut my stucco out and
put two exterior panels through the wall for a fancy whirly water tub.

It gives access to the power on one side and water on the other side.
Never have to open anything from the front of the tub (tile).

Replastering cieling is like welding the hood of your vehice shut for
appearance sake....... yep you can do it, but just opening the hood is
a lot easier..

Sure. If I put up a panel each time a water pipe leaked, I would be
divorced. And git me one of those X wives.

In the case of the OP we just don't know what the project looks like,
except what is stated.

On Jan 27, 6:28*pm, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2011 04:24:15 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:
On Jan 26, 4:50 pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 13:37:59 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:
install a access panel to be ready for the next leak. just lift it out
when needed..

Or he can patch the ceiling and then not have a conversation piece
above the dining table. Right?

you sound like my wife... X wife.

Now you've heard it twice.



I have a kitchen cieling with bathroom directly above it

since I moved here in 1972 there have been at least 5 or 6 holes in
cieling. to fix a variety of leaks....

A access panel sold at home depot is much more convenient.

Panels are great -- in the right location. *I cut my stucco out and
put two exterior panels through the wall for a fancy whirly water tub.

It gives access to the power on one side and water on the other side.
Never have to open anything from the front of the tub (tile).

Replastering cieling is like welding the hood of your vehice shut for
appearance sake....... yep you can do it, but just opening the hood is
a lot easier..

Sure. If I put up a panel each time a water pipe leaked, I would be
divorced. *And git me one of those X wives.

In the case of the OP we just don't know what the project looks like,
except what is stated.

Well access panels are commercially sold at home depot with nice
bezels and professional appearance.....

not a typical home made panel in the back of a closet

for e that looks better than peeling paint and rippled dry wall after
a minor leak