I was recaulking my shower/tub, and noticed that some tiles were
loose. I pulled 3 tiles off the wall, and saw that the wall board
(I'm not sure which type) had some water damage.

I see plenty of sites describing how to fix this, but I have some
questions.

The rotten board surrounded the bathtub spout. I assume it's a best
to install a single piece of new cement board, with a hole cut for the
pipe. Is it easy to unscrew the spout without causing further
problems? What will seal the pipe connection when I reconnect it?

Or should I just install two horizontal pieces, on the top and bottom
of the pipe?

The tub spout pipe came through a tile that had been cut in half (or
maybe broke at some point), and then had a hole cut in it. Can I seal
the crack between the tile halves with grout, even though the crack is
smaller than a standard grout joint?

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/arti...218790,00.html recommends
avoiding vertical seams, by removing entire horizontal rows of tiles.
Other sites just recommend removing enough tiles so the patch reaches
two studs, and so the outermost tiles are half on existing, good board
and half on the new board. Is that enough?

Behind the wallboard is fiberglass insulation with a vapor barrier
(even though it's an interior wall). The vapor barrier has some cuts
and rips. Is there a way to install a barrier patch over just the
exposed section, rather than the whole section of wall? What material
should I use?

I see you're supposed to leave a small gap between the bottom of the
cement board and the top of the tub. Why? If water gets through the
tiles, where does it go once it's on the front of the cement board, or
the front of the vapor barrier?

Jimmy

On Dec 23, 3:20*pm, Jimmy wrote:
I was recaulking my shower/tub, and noticed that some tiles were
loose. *I pulled 3 tiles off the wall, and saw that the wall board
(I'm not sure which type) had some water damage.

I see plenty of sites describing how to fix this, but I have some
questions.

The rotten board surrounded the bathtub spout. *I assume it's a best
to install a single piece of new cement board, with a hole cut for the
pipe. *Is it easy to unscrew the spout without causing further
problems? *What will seal the pipe connection when I reconnect it?

Or should I just install two horizontal pieces, on the top and bottom
of the pipe?

The tub spout pipe came through a tile that had been cut in half (or
maybe broke at some point), and then had a hole cut in it. *Can I seal
the crack between the tile halves with grout, even though the crack is
smaller than a standard grout joint?

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/arti...htmlrecommends
avoiding vertical seams, by removing entire horizontal rows of tiles.
Other sites just recommend removing enough tiles so the patch reaches
two studs, and so the outermost tiles are half on existing, good board
and half on the new board. *Is that enough?

Behind the wallboard is fiberglass insulation with a vapor barrier
(even though it's an interior wall). *The vapor barrier has some cuts
and rips. *Is there a way to install a barrier patch over just the
exposed section, rather than the whole section of wall? *What material
should I use?

I see you're supposed to leave a small gap between the bottom of the
cement board and the top of the tub. *Why? *If water gets through the
tiles, where does it go once it's on the front of the cement board, or
the front of the vapor barrier?

Jimmy

Before you get the job done, you will probably wind up removing all
the wallboard and starting over. Best to view some construction sites,
if you can, and see how these things are professionally done. Take
some pictures, too.
Given your problem I would simply gut the thing and put down new Durok
with whatever code required backing is needed, then retile it right.
Harbor Freight has diamond hole saws for the spout and controls very
reasonably priced.
A Band-Aid approach seems pretty dubious based on what you have seen
so far. If it is more than you feel comfortable dealing with, get
quotes from pros to decide the best fix that fits your budget.

Joe

"Jimmy" wrote in message
...
I was recaulking my shower/tub, and noticed that some tiles were
loose. I pulled 3 tiles off the wall, and saw that the wall board
(I'm not sure which type) had some water damage.

I see plenty of sites describing how to fix this, but I have some
questions.

The rotten board surrounded the bathtub spout. I assume it's a best
to install a single piece of new cement board, with a hole cut for the
pipe. Is it easy to unscrew the spout without causing further
problems? What will seal the pipe connection when I reconnect it?

Use a wrench on the pipe behind the spout to avoid it turning at all.
Use pipe joint compound and/or teflon tape, unless the spout requires something
different.


Or should I just install two horizontal pieces, on the top and bottom
of the pipe?

The tub spout pipe came through a tile that had been cut in half (or
maybe broke at some point), and then had a hole cut in it. Can I seal
the crack between the tile halves with grout, even though the crack is
smaller than a standard grout joint?

Probably use appropriately colored silicone caulk here. The same as you'd use
between the bottom of the tile and the tub.


http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/arti...218790,00.html recommends
avoiding vertical seams, by removing entire horizontal rows of tiles.
Other sites just recommend removing enough tiles so the patch reaches
two studs, and so the outermost tiles are half on existing, good board
and half on the new board. Is that enough?

Behind the wallboard is fiberglass insulation with a vapor barrier
(even though it's an interior wall). The vapor barrier has some cuts
and rips. Is there a way to install a barrier patch over just the
exposed section, rather than the whole section of wall? What material
should I use?

The vapor barrier probably increases the moisture problem be preventing the
escape of moisture, trapping it in the current drywall. Tile shops told me vapor
barrier is not a good thing here.


I see you're supposed to leave a small gap between the bottom of the
cement board and the top of the tub. Why? If water gets through the
tiles, where does it go once it's on the front of the cement board, or
the front of the vapor barrier?

Water gets wicked up into the backerboard. Then it sits there, rotting the
studs, since the vapor barrier keeps it from evaporating.

"Bob F" wrote:
The vapor barrier probably increases the moisture problem be preventing the
escape of moisture, trapping it in the current drywall. Tile shops told me vapor
barrier is not a good thing here.

"Jimmy" wrote:
I see you're supposed to leave a small gap between the bottom of the
cement board and the top of the tub. *Why? *If water gets through the
tiles, where does it go once it's on the front of the cement board, or
the front of the vapor barrier?

Water gets wicked up into the backerboard.

I thought the more expensive types of boards are water resistant.

Then it sits there, rotting the
studs, since the vapor barrier keeps it from evaporating.

Couldn't a vapor barrier keep the water away from the studs?

If there's no vapor barrier, then where would the water go? Into the
fiberglass insulation, or the space between the studs? That seems
like a recipe for mold.

Jimmy

(Grout Medic Denver) wrote:
Install R-19 or R-13 insulation if need be and a new plastic to cover and
staple into the studs.

What kind of plastic? Do I need to seal the top edge of the plastic
onto the intact insulation/vapor barrier on the higher part of the
wall?

Now for the important part, it is important to have full rows of tiles
removed so when you go to install your new backerboard, you are installing
FULL Pieces; not pieced together sections.

What is wrong with just replacing the damaged section of board,
extended to the next studs?

Jimmy

On Dec 23, 5:28*pm, Joe wrote:
On Dec 23, 3:20*pm, Jimmy wrote:





I was recaulking my shower/tub, and noticed that some tiles were
loose. *I pulled 3 tiles off the wall, and saw that the wall board
(I'm not sure which type) had some water damage.

I see plenty of sites describing how to fix this, but I have some
questions.

The rotten board surrounded the bathtub spout. *I assume it's a best
to install a single piece of new cement board, with a hole cut for the
pipe. *Is it easy to unscrew the spout without causing further
problems? *What will seal the pipe connection when I reconnect it?

Or should I just install two horizontal pieces, on the top and bottom
of the pipe?

The tub spout pipe came through a tile that had been cut in half (or
maybe broke at some point), and then had a hole cut in it. *Can I seal
the crack between the tile halves with grout, even though the crack is
smaller than a standard grout joint?

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/arti...htmlrecommends
avoiding vertical seams, by removing entire horizontal rows of tiles.
Other sites just recommend removing enough tiles so the patch reaches
two studs, and so the outermost tiles are half on existing, good board
and half on the new board. *Is that enough?

Behind the wallboard is fiberglass insulation with a vapor barrier
(even though it's an interior wall). *The vapor barrier has some cuts
and rips. *Is there a way to install a barrier patch over just the
exposed section, rather than the whole section of wall? *What material
should I use?

I see you're supposed to leave a small gap between the bottom of the
cement board and the top of the tub. *Why? *If water gets through the
tiles, where does it go once it's on the front of the cement board, or
the front of the vapor barrier?

Jimmy

Before you get the job done, you will probably wind up removing all
the wallboard and starting over. Best to view some construction sites,
if you can, and see how these things are professionally done. Take
some pictures, too.
Given your problem I would simply gut the thing and put down new Durok
with whatever code required backing is needed, then retile it right.
Harbor Freight has diamond hole saws for the spout and controls very
reasonably priced.
A Band-Aid approach seems pretty dubious based on what you have seen
so far. If it is more than you feel comfortable dealing with, get
quotes from pros to decide the best fix that fits your budget.

Joe- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll second this, bigtime. Yeah, you can patch it in, but it won't
look right, and you may buy another year or two at most. Likely green
board behind there, if house was built early 60s to 1980 or so. It
likely leaked into wall because grout was not kept sealed, or there is
a gap in the caulk around spout or faucet handles- a VERY common
problem. Call around to the guys that have tile-setting ads in the
local ad paper, and get some bids. Ask how much if you do the demo,
which most tile guys hate doing. If all they have to do is seal the
backer board you nailed up, and set the tile, it may be cheaper than
you think. Good time to change out the faucet, as well, especially if
you don't have an access panel behind it, or a good place to add one.

Some things are worth doing only once, IMHO. Doubly true if there is a
SWMBO and kids in the house, since tub will be out of commission for
several days. If this is the only shower in the house, even more so.
--
aem sends, on Google for a few more days...

On Dec 23, 4:20*pm, Jimmy wrote:

I see plenty of sites describing how to fix this, but I have some
questions.

I agree with those who have opined that this is generally not a
homeowner-type repair. Water can wreak havoc and cause one to throw
good money after bad, lots of it.

I have reconstructed a shower and kept it available for use by
protecting the work area with plastic sheeting and duct tape.
Effective, if done right, but a pain in the ass.

For a homeowner with your questions I'd suggest it would be easier,
faster, more effective and attractive to demo and replace everything
in the tub enclosure.
-----

- gpsman