I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine grade
plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any thicker
than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

Thanks

Rex B
DFW

--
I can see 2012 from my front porch

RBnDFW wrote:

I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine grade
plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any thicker
than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

A layer of cement tile backer board would be appropriate, the same as
tiling a wall. I would however suggest you reconsider the idea of tiling
the counter as in my experience tiled counters are less than ideal. Tile
counters are hard, noisy, the surface is not level so bottles rock, and
the grout lines are a royal pain to clean.

RBnDFW wrote:
I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine
grade plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any
thicker than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

1/4" backer board would form a more a stable layer to attach the tiles,
eliminating the risk of wet plywood expansion causing cracks. Neither Grout nor
most backer board are completely water proof.

I have been very happy with my tiled bathroom counter, with none of the problems
brought up by Pete. I do wipe up spills and water immediately with a towel to
significantly reduce maintainence, and used large tiles with flat surfaces.

On 12/17/2010 10:58 AM, Bob F wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:
I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine
grade plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any
thicker than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

1/4" backer board would form a more a stable layer to attach the tiles,
eliminating the risk of wet plywood expansion causing cracks. Neither Grout nor
most backer board are completely water proof.

I was hoping for something thinner.

I have been very happy with my tiled bathroom counter, with none of the problems
brought up by Pete. I do wipe up spills and water immediately with a towel to
significantly reduce maintainence, and used large tiles with flat surfaces.

Unfortunately this will be mostly 2" square tiles - big mosaic, lots of
grout. I figured I'd find a fine-grain grout that would be more or less
waterproof.

Anything wrong with using adhesive to attach them, to keep from adding
anymore thickness?

--
I can see 2012 from my front porch

On 12/17/2010 9:24 AM, Pete C. wrote:

RBnDFW wrote:

I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine grade
plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any thicker
than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

A layer of cement tile backer board would be appropriate, the same as
tiling a wall. I would however suggest you reconsider the idea of tiling
the counter as in my experience tiled counters are less than ideal. Tile
counters are hard, noisy, the surface is not level so bottles rock, and
the grout lines are a royal pain to clean.

I had considered those negatives, and I don't agree. The wife and I have
been back and forth on it for some time. We like the look.

Thanks for the input

--
I can see 2012 from my front porch

RBnDFW wrote:
On 12/17/2010 10:58 AM, Bob F wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:
I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine
grade plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the
tiles to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any
thicker than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want
to do this once.

1/4" backer board would form a more a stable layer to attach the
tiles, eliminating the risk of wet plywood expansion causing cracks.
Neither Grout nor most backer board are completely water proof.

I was hoping for something thinner.

I have been very happy with my tiled bathroom counter, with none of
the problems brought up by Pete. I do wipe up spills and water
immediately with a towel to significantly reduce maintainence, and
used large tiles with flat surfaces.

Unfortunately this will be mostly 2" square tiles - big mosaic, lots
of grout. I figured I'd find a fine-grain grout that would be more or
less waterproof.

Anything wrong with using adhesive to attach them, to keep from adding
anymore thickness?

remove the plywood. make one of thinner plywood, then top with hardiboard.
or you can remove the plywood and use full thickness cement board. you
shouldn't use plywood for a substrate for tiles.

On Dec 17, 7:24*am, "Pete C." wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:

I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine grade
plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
* * My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
* * But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? * Problem is I don't want to make the top any thicker
than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
* * Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. *I only want to do
this once.

A layer of cement tile backer board would be appropriate, the same as
tiling a wall. I would however suggest you reconsider the idea of tiling
the counter as in my experience tiled counters are less than ideal. Tile
counters are hard, noisy, the surface is not level so bottles rock, and
the grout lines are a royal pain to clean.

+1. I'll add that tiles are more delicate than you might expect. One
hard hit, and you'll be doing this again.

"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...
On 12/17/2010 10:58 AM, Bob F wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:
I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine
grade plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any
thicker than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

1/4" backer board would form a more a stable layer to attach the tiles,
eliminating the risk of wet plywood expansion causing cracks. Neither
Grout nor
most backer board are completely water proof.

I was hoping for something thinner.

I have been very happy with my tiled bathroom counter, with none of the
problems
brought up by Pete. I do wipe up spills and water immediately with a
towel to
significantly reduce maintainence, and used large tiles with flat
surfaces.

Unfortunately this will be mostly 2" square tiles - big mosaic, lots of
grout. I figured I'd find a fine-grain grout that would be more or less
waterproof.

Anything wrong with using adhesive to attach them, to keep from adding
anymore thickness?

--
I can see 2012 from my front porch



The extra 1/8" will make no material difference.

Your house and your choice but you asked for advice which we have all freely
given and we all agree.

If it is absolution for the sin you are about to commit, please consult a
member of the clergy because we don't do that here.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On Dec 17, 11:24*am, "Pete C." wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:

I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine grade
plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
* * My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
* * But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? * Problem is I don't want to make the top any thicker
than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
* * Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. *I only want to do
this once.

A layer of cement tile backer board would be appropriate, the same as
tiling a wall. I would however suggest you reconsider the idea of tiling
the counter as in my experience tiled counters are less than ideal. Tile
counters are hard, noisy, the surface is not level so bottles rock, and
the grout lines are a royal pain to clean.

For years tile has been installed on kitchen counters long before the
invention of cement backer board. My friend did his counter top in
tiles that are the same width as the counter top and grout lines are
very thin. Black tiles with very dark green grout is epoxy type, needs
no sealer and no problem to clean.

Jimmie

JIMMIE wrote:
On Dec 17, 11:24 am, "Pete C." wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:

I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine
grade plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any
thicker than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

A layer of cement tile backer board would be appropriate, the same as
tiling a wall. I would however suggest you reconsider the idea of
tiling the counter as in my experience tiled counters are less than
ideal. Tile counters are hard, noisy, the surface is not level so
bottles rock, and the grout lines are a royal pain to clean.

For years tile has been installed on kitchen counters long before the
invention of cement backer board. My friend did his counter top in
tiles that are the same width as the counter top and grout lines are
very thin. Black tiles with very dark green grout is epoxy type, needs
no sealer and no problem to clean.

Jimmie

and the substrate for years has been a concrete bed, not plywood.

On 12/17/2010 12:47 PM, RBnDFW wrote:
On 12/17/2010 9:24 AM, Pete C. wrote:

RBnDFW wrote:

I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine grade
plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any thicker
than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

A layer of cement tile backer board would be appropriate, the same as
tiling a wall. I would however suggest you reconsider the idea of tiling
the counter as in my experience tiled counters are less than ideal. Tile
counters are hard, noisy, the surface is not level so bottles rock, and
the grout lines are a royal pain to clean.

I had considered those negatives, and I don't agree.

That should have read "we don't DISagree"

We are willing to to forgo the smooth surface so that the counter will
match the floor and shower.

The wife and I have
been back and forth on it for some time. We like the look.

Thanks for the input



--
I can see 2012 from my front porch

RBnDFW wrote:

On 12/17/2010 12:47 PM, RBnDFW wrote:
On 12/17/2010 9:24 AM, Pete C. wrote:

RBnDFW wrote:

I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine grade
plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any thicker
than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

A layer of cement tile backer board would be appropriate, the same as
tiling a wall. I would however suggest you reconsider the idea of tiling
the counter as in my experience tiled counters are less than ideal. Tile
counters are hard, noisy, the surface is not level so bottles rock, and
the grout lines are a royal pain to clean.

I had considered those negatives, and I don't agree.

That should have read "we don't DISagree"

We are willing to to forgo the smooth surface so that the counter will
match the floor and shower.

The wife and I have
been back and forth on it for some time. We like the look.

Thanks for the input

Split the difference and after tiling give it a coat of something like
System3 Mirror Coat epoxy perhaps? Smooth and softer crystal clear
surface over your matching tile?

"RBnDFW" wrote

Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

Thanks

Rex B
DFW

If you only want to do it once, toss the cheap tiles, and grout that fails
and stains, and get some granite.

Steve

On 12/17/2010 3:41 PM, Pete C. wrote:

RBnDFW wrote:

On 12/17/2010 12:47 PM, RBnDFW wrote:
On 12/17/2010 9:24 AM, Pete C. wrote:

RBnDFW wrote:

I am finishing a bathroom counter.
It's approx 75"x25" and will have two sink bowls

Right now I have the top made from 3/4" plywood. It is not marine grade
plywood BTW. The tiles are cut and ready to lay.
My original plan was to use structural adhesive to attach the tiles
to the plywood and then grout.
But I bet I need a waterproof substrate - backer board, cement
board, Hardiboard? Problem is I don't want to make the top any thicker
than it already is, though 1/8" or so would be fine.
Any suggestions welcome on materials and method. I only want to do
this once.

A layer of cement tile backer board would be appropriate, the same as
tiling a wall. I would however suggest you reconsider the idea of tiling
the counter as in my experience tiled counters are less than ideal. Tile
counters are hard, noisy, the surface is not level so bottles rock, and
the grout lines are a royal pain to clean.

I had considered those negatives, and I don't agree.

That should have read "we don't DISagree"

We are willing to to forgo the smooth surface so that the counter will
match the floor and shower.

The wife and I have
been back and forth on it for some time. We like the look.

Thanks for the input

Split the difference and after tiling give it a coat of something like
System3 Mirror Coat epoxy perhaps? Smooth and softer crystal clear
surface over your matching tile?

That's an interesting idea. I was concerned that the grout would pass
moisture.

Thank you

--
I can see 2012 from my front porch

RBnDFW wrote:

That's an interesting idea. I was concerned that the grout would pass
moisture.


If that's your issue, you could use epoxy grout.

On Dec 17, 5:49*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:
That's an interesting idea. I was concerned that the grout would pass
moisture.

If that's your issue, you could use epoxy grout.

Back in stone age, when we would use plywood in wet areas (like a
hanger board for wall-hung sink or towel bar), we would often paint
the plywood all six sides with epoxy before installing, like when you
are building a fiberglass boat and installing mounting pads. But that
was dfor mechanical fastening- dunno if thinset or mastic wil stick to
epoxy.

--
aem sends, temporarily on Google...

aemeijers wrote:
On Dec 17, 5:49 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:
That's an interesting idea. I was concerned that the grout would
pass moisture.

If that's your issue, you could use epoxy grout.

Back in stone age, when we would use plywood in wet areas (like a
hanger board for wall-hung sink or towel bar), we would often paint
the plywood all six sides with epoxy before installing, like when you
are building a fiberglass boat and installing mounting pads. But that
was dfor mechanical fastening- dunno if thinset or mastic wil stick to
epoxy.

I bet epoxy grout will stick to it.

I used epoxy grout on my hot tub floor for both mounting the tile and grouting
it, after the first floor tile came loose.