I have a detached garage that is kind of unique. It is a metal
building sort of like a pole barn. The inside walls are 2x4 24 inches
on center directly bolted to a concrete slab. Trusses are 4 feet on
center.

I am thinking of drywalling walls and installing white metal on the
ceiling.

I am going to hang drywall vertically to eliminate butted seams
"except in the corners". Building is 30x30.

1. If done this way, each tapered seam will be on a single stud. Is
this good or bad?

2. The corners of the walls are not framed like a house exactly. If I
use drywall clips and attach each corner piece to the same corner
studd for inside corners, will this eliminate or prevent cracking? (Or
will it make it worse).

3. The insulation paper is on top of the studs. I thought about
cutting a foot of the paper off each studd in three places and putting
adhesive on these areas to contact the drywall and still use screws to
help eliminate popping. (I hate to take off all the paper.) Is this a
good or bad idea?

I live in Southern Kentucky climate. Garage is unheated unless I am in
there with a kerosene heater working. i live in the country and a
pristine job is not required but I want to do the best I can.

Thanks!

In ,
stryped typed:
I have a detached garage that is kind of unique. It is a
metal building sort of like a pole barn. The inside walls
are 2x4 24 inches on center directly bolted to a concrete
slab. Trusses are 4 feet on center.

I am thinking of drywalling walls and installing white
metal on the ceiling.

I am going to hang drywall vertically to eliminate butted
seams "except in the corners". Building is 30x30.

1. If done this way, each tapered seam will be on a single
stud. Is this good or bad?

2. The corners of the walls are not framed like a house
exactly. If I use drywall clips and attach each corner
piece to the same corner studd for inside corners, will
this eliminate or prevent cracking? (Or will it make it
worse).

3. The insulation paper is on top of the studs. I thought
about cutting a foot of the paper off each studd in three
places and putting adhesive on these areas to contact the
drywall and still use screws to help eliminate popping. (I
hate to take off all the paper.) Is this a good or bad idea?

I live in Southern Kentucky climate. Garage is unheated
unless I am in there with a kerosene heater working. i live
in the country and a pristine job is not required but I
want to do the best I can.

Thanks!

I don't have the experience to give you much of a response but I can mention
one important thing: Give particular attention to the vapor barrier and
if/how it'll be installed. Metal likes to condense water on its warm side
and if there's nowhere for the moisture to go, it'll rot the studs and
depending on what kind of footer was used, possibly the footers too.
The only thing I'm sure of is that you can never use multiple vapor
barriers; one only. Considering where you are, you might not even want/need
a vapor barrier; I'd check around and ask questions of your local code
control office; they'll have the last word on everything anyway. Perhaps
someone knowldgeble will show up here; just be sure to verify any info you
get from the internet or groups.

HTH,

Twayne`

In article ,
"Twayne" wrote:

Perhaps someone knowldgeble will show up here

Waiting for Godot, are you?

"stryped" wrote in message
...
I have a detached garage that is kind of unique. It is a metal
building sort of like a pole barn. The inside walls are 2x4 24 inches
on center directly bolted to a concrete slab. Trusses are 4 feet on
center.

I am thinking of drywalling walls and installing white metal on the
ceiling.

I am going to hang drywall vertically to eliminate butted seams
"except in the corners". Building is 30x30.

1. If done this way, each tapered seam will be on a single stud. Is
this good or bad?

2. The corners of the walls are not framed like a house exactly. If I
use drywall clips and attach each corner piece to the same corner
studd for inside corners, will this eliminate or prevent cracking? (Or
will it make it worse).

3. The insulation paper is on top of the studs. I thought about
cutting a foot of the paper off each studd in three places and putting
adhesive on these areas to contact the drywall and still use screws to
help eliminate popping. (I hate to take off all the paper.) Is this a
good or bad idea?

I live in Southern Kentucky climate. Garage is unheated unless I am in
there with a kerosene heater working. i live in the country and a
pristine job is not required but I want to do the best I can.

Thanks!


I would not cut the vapor barrier. You really need that to protect the studs
and metal. Consider shimming out the studs with stock at least 3/8" thick if
you want to use glue. I actually have a 4x8 sheet of 3/8 I should be ripping
right now.

For detached garage with uneaven heating cycles I don't think I would use
drywall at all. I would use paneling or even OSB. OSB is actually cheaper
than drywall at Lowes today.

I am in Lexington so your weather cycles have to be about the same.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

stryped wrote:
I have a detached garage that is kind of unique. It is a metal
building sort of like a pole barn. The inside walls are 2x4 24 inches
on center directly bolted to a concrete slab. Trusses are 4 feet on
center.

I am thinking of drywalling walls and installing white metal on the
ceiling.

I am going to hang drywall vertically to eliminate butted seams
"except in the corners". Building is 30x30.

How tall? I'd really suggest hanging horizontally--it's much simpler
taping the single joint than the multiple and you avoid the worries of
the studs being exactly on center and vertical that's an issue in
hanging it vertically. If it's taller than 8', you can get 5' sheets to
handle up to 10-ft still w/ only a single seam.

As for the corners, in a shop area you could simply use a corner inside
mould and not even bother taping and have no worries regarding potential
cracking developing.

As others said, don't break the vapor barrier anywhere--just use drywall
screws or if the studs are metal studs (wasn't totally clear to me), the
self-starters for them...

--

On Dec 16, 9:17*am, stryped wrote:
I have a detached garage that is kind of unique. It is a metal
building sort of like a pole barn. The inside walls are 2x4 24 inches
on center directly bolted to a concrete slab. Trusses are 4 feet on
center.

I am thinking of drywalling walls and installing white metal on the
ceiling.

I am going to hang drywall vertically to eliminate butted seams
"except in the corners". Building is 30x30.

-- OK

1. If done this way, each tapered seam will be on a single stud. Is
this good or bad?

-- Good. Normal, anyway.

2. The corners of the walls are not framed like a house exactly. If I
use drywall clips and attach each corner piece to the same corner
studd for inside corners, will this eliminate or prevent cracking? (Or
will it make it worse).

-- Not sure I'm picturing that right but I think if it was me, I'd
consider putting studs in where needed to ensure each drywall sheet
ends on studs. Only 4 more studs, yes?

3. The insulation paper is on top of the studs. I thought about
cutting a foot of the paper off each studd in three places and putting
adhesive on these areas to contact the drywall and still use screws to
help eliminate popping. (I hate to take off all the paper.) Is this a
good or bad idea?

-- Leave the paper intact. The screws will hold the drywall just
fine.

I live in Southern Kentucky climate. Garage is unheated unless I am in
there with a kerosene heater working. i live in the country and a
pristine job is not required but I want to do the best I can.

-- One thing, if you finish the drywall, then go ahead and paint it
too. If you leave the mudded seams unpainted they will get crumbly
and be hard to paint later. Ask me how I know. -- H

Thanks!

On Dec 16, 11:06*am, "Twayne" wrote:
,
stryped typed:



I have a detached garage that is kind of unique. It is a
metal building sort of like a pole barn. The inside walls
are 2x4 24 inches on center directly bolted to a concrete
slab. Trusses are 4 feet on center.

I am thinking of drywalling walls and installing white
metal on the ceiling.

I am going to hang drywall vertically to eliminate butted
seams "except in the corners". Building is 30x30.

1. If done this way, each tapered seam will be on a single
stud. Is this good or bad?

2. The corners of the walls are not framed like a house
exactly. If I use drywall clips and attach each corner
piece to the same corner studd for inside corners, will
this eliminate or prevent cracking? (Or will it make it
worse).

3. The insulation paper is on top of the studs. I thought
about cutting a foot of the paper off each studd in three
places and putting adhesive on these areas to contact the
drywall and still use screws to help eliminate popping. (I
hate to take off all the paper.) Is this a good or bad idea?

I live in Southern Kentucky climate. Garage is unheated
unless I am in there with a kerosene heater working. i live
in the country and a pristine job is not required but I
want to do the best I can.

Thanks!

I don't have the experience to give you much of a response but I can mention
one important thing: Give particular attention to the vapor barrier and
if/how it'll be installed. Metal likes to condense water on its warm side
and if there's nowhere for the moisture to go, it'll rot the studs and
depending on what kind of footer was used, possibly the footers too.
* *The only thing I'm sure of is that you can never use multiple vapor
barriers; one only. Considering where you are, you might not even want/need
a vapor barrier; I'd check around and ask questions of your local code
control office; they'll have the last word on everything anyway. Perhaps
someone knowldgeble will show up here; just be sure to verify any info you
get from the internet or groups.

HTH,

Twayne`

Vapor barriers can be tricky, especially if you install one
without realizing it.
One coat of oil-base or two coats of latex semi-gloss can
give you a perm rating of 0.99.

dpb wrote:
....

How tall? I'd really suggest hanging horizontally--it's much simpler
taping the single joint than the multiple and you avoid the worries of
the studs being exactly on center and vertical that's an issue in
hanging it vertically. If it's taller than 8', you can get 5' sheets to
handle up to 10-ft still w/ only a single seam.
....

BTW, don't be overly obsessed w/ the couple of butt seams -- they're
ways to deal with 'em...

Here's article that shows conventional and mentions one of the alternate
"tricks" at the end as well...

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021164076.pdf

There's another trick I've seen advertised but never tried -- it dampens
the ends and uses a roller w/ some pressure to actually create a tapered
depression on the end of the board...the link is

http://www.butttaper.com/thetool.htm

I generally use the "depressed between the studs" technique for new
work; in you application there would be four per wall using 10-ft
sheets. Generally, one wants to stagger them by using half sheet
starting alternate courses.

hth...

--

--

"stryped" wrote in message
...
I have a detached garage that is kind of unique. It is a metal
building sort of like a pole barn. The inside walls are 2x4 24 inches
on center directly bolted to a concrete slab. Trusses are 4 feet on
center.

I am thinking of drywalling walls and installing white metal on the
ceiling.

I am going to hang drywall vertically to eliminate butted seams
"except in the corners". Building is 30x30.

1. If done this way, each tapered seam will be on a single stud. Is
this good or bad?

2. The corners of the walls are not framed like a house exactly. If I
use drywall clips and attach each corner piece to the same corner
studd for inside corners, will this eliminate or prevent cracking? (Or
will it make it worse).

3. The insulation paper is on top of the studs. I thought about
cutting a foot of the paper off each studd in three places and putting
adhesive on these areas to contact the drywall and still use screws to
help eliminate popping. (I hate to take off all the paper.) Is this a
good or bad idea?

I live in Southern Kentucky climate. Garage is unheated unless I am in
there with a kerosene heater working. i live in the country and a
pristine job is not required but I want to do the best I can.

Thanks!



Hasn't this been gone over before ?? I seem to remember it it...Pole barns
were not built to finish...Metal on the ceiling will drip like rain in the
winter with your K1 heater...I doubt the trusses are rated for a drywall
load even if you did strap it with 2X4s and rock it without adding beams and
posts..Walls 2X4 2 foot on center might be a problem as well without adding
the supports I already mentioned as well as header types ect.....More info
on the trusses and what they are rated for would be nice...As a general rule
buildings built that flimsy aren't meant to finish without alot of
work...Pictures are worth a thousand words...HTH...

On Dec 16, 9:17*am, stryped wrote:
I have a detached garage that is kind of unique. It is a metal
building sort of like a pole barn. The inside walls are 2x4 24 inches
on center directly bolted to a concrete slab. Trusses are 4 feet on
center.

I am thinking of drywalling walls and installing white metal on the
ceiling.

I am going to hang drywall vertically to eliminate butted seams
"except in the corners". Building is 30x30.

1. If done this way, each tapered seam will be on a single stud. Is
this good or bad?

2. The corners of the walls are not framed like a house exactly. If I
use drywall clips and attach each corner piece to the same corner
studd for inside corners, will this eliminate or prevent cracking? (Or
will it make it worse).

3. The insulation paper is on top of the studs. I thought about
cutting a foot of the paper off each studd in three places and putting
adhesive on these areas to contact the drywall and still use screws to
help eliminate popping. (I hate to take off all the paper.) Is this a
good or bad idea?

I live in Southern Kentucky climate. Garage is unheated unless I am in
there with a kerosene heater working. i live in the country and a
pristine job is not required but I want to do the best I can.

Thanks!

Nobody else said it, so I will. Drywalling an unheated metal building
is just asking for trouble. The drywall will get soft and funky
smelling after a season or two of damp weather, and in my experience,
metal buildings flex, and your joints will quickly look like crap.
I'd save up and get the proper material for the job, the plastic-
covered panels the pole barn companies sell. They have the trim strips
that go between the panels, and don't need mudding or painting. It's a
garage/workshop- trying to have walls as pretty as the living room
will be a constant upkeep headache. If your heart is set on drywall,
use the non-paper kind they sell for basement/bathroom use, at least.

--
aem sends, stuck on Google till the 29th...