On Nov 19, 2:55*pm, Unused Classified wrote:
Hello,
My house has wood floors.
My dog spills alot of water all over the place when he drinks, and
near his bowl its damaged the flooor.
The cracks between tiles have blackend.
Whats the fix for this?
Is there a way to remove and relace a few tiles?
Or does the while thing need to be sanded down?

Heres a pic of the floor:

http://tinypic.com/r/t8te7b/7

Thanks!
The only way to know if you can sand that out would be to get a belt
sander and try.

It is possible to lift sections of floor. That is tongue and groove
floor. Each strip has a tongue that goes into a groove on the side of
the adjacent piece. It's a real pain. A lot of installers will just
lift the floor all the way from the end. It's possible to saw out
sections if you are good but you need to be good.

jamesgangnc wrote in news:bf3fc9c7-b77f-4cb6-
:

On Nov 19, 2:55*pm, Unused Classified wrote:
Hello,
My house has wood floors.
My dog spills alot of water all over the place when he drinks, and
near his bowl its damaged the flooor.
The cracks between tiles have blackend.
Whats the fix for this?
Is there a way to remove and relace a few tiles?
Or does the while thing need to be sanded down?

Heres a pic of the floor:

http://tinypic.com/r/t8te7b/7

Thanks!
The only way to know if you can sand that out would be to get a belt
sander and try.

It is possible to lift sections of floor. That is tongue and groove
floor. Each strip has a tongue that goes into a groove on the side of
the adjacent piece. It's a real pain. A lot of installers will just
lift the floor all the way from the end. It's possible to saw out
sections if you are good but you need to be good.


And oxalic acid is used for wood bleaching. Available at real paint
stores. It would need to be sanded anyway to get the finish off so the
acid can work. May end up being a bigger mess than what you already have.
Probably will since you call them tiles vs wood verbage. Definitely more
work than you plan.

Red Green wrote:

And oxalic acid is used for wood bleaching. Available at real paint
stores. It would need to be sanded anyway to get the finish off so the
acid can work. May end up being a bigger mess than what you already have.
Probably will since you call them tiles vs wood verbage. Definitely more
work than you plan.

I have had good luck using oxalic acid for removing water stains from finished
floors. The water got through the finish, the oxalic acid can too. If the
boards aren't warped, I'd keep the boards wet with oxalic acid until the stains
are gone and see what it looks like. Wet cloths for a couple of hours should do
it.

If the boards are warped, I'd sand that out first. Then I'd use oxalic acid to
get rid of the stains and refinish the area. It's not that hard, but can be
tricky if you haven't done it before.

-- Doug

On Nov 19, 3:11*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:


The only way to know if you can sand that out would be to get a belt
sander and try.

It is possible to lift sections of floor. *That is tongue and groove
floor. *Each strip has a tongue that goes into a groove on the side of
the adjacent piece. *It's a real pain. *A lot of installers will just
lift the floor all the way from the end. *It's possible to saw out
sections if you are good but you need to be good.

Umm...

You don't need to be _that_ good to cut out a damaged plank
from a wood floor, you just have to realize that the saw can only
do some of the work and the rest has to be done with hand tools
which have to be sharp and properly maintained...

Installing a replacement plank is just a matter of trimming off
the lower portion of the groove and either using glue or face
nailing the replacement plank down...

Replacing the wood on a wood floor is often the easiest part
of the repair task, unless you have a leftover can of the exact
floor stain you used BLENDING a patch in to have it color
match is often the art that people repairing floors are lacking
in compared to the relatively simple science of basic
carpentry skills...

~~ Evan

On Nov 19, 5:33*pm, Evan wrote:
On Nov 19, 3:11*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:



The only way to know if you can sand that out would be to get a belt
sander and try.

It is possible to lift sections of floor. *That is tongue and groove
floor. *Each strip has a tongue that goes into a groove on the side of
the adjacent piece. *It's a real pain. *A lot of installers will just
lift the floor all the way from the end. *It's possible to saw out
sections if you are good but you need to be good.

Umm...

You don't need to be _that_ good to cut out a damaged plank
from a wood floor, you just have to realize that the saw can only
do some of the work and the rest has to be done with hand tools
which have to be sharp and properly maintained...

Installing a replacement plank is just a matter of trimming off
the lower portion of the groove and either using glue or face
nailing the replacement plank down...

Replacing the wood on a wood floor is often the easiest part
of the repair task, unless you have a leftover can of the exact
floor stain you used BLENDING a patch in to have it color
match is often the art that people repairing floors are lacking
in compared to the relatively simple science of basic
carpentry skills...

~~ Evan

I oxalic acid does not work, I would try regular household bleach 100%
scrubbed into the cracks/mold. Then dry it off as quickly as possible
after the mold ios gone. THen buy something to protect the floor.