I have a '29 house that I'm working on the kitchen drain.

There are a whole series of ~ 2.4 " (OD) cast iron elbows that come
out of the wall and flow into the main line.

What I'd like to do is replumb that with PVC down to the existing
cast iron drain.

How do I do that without damaging the main line? What do I seal it
back up with later?

Jeff

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 08:34:48 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:

I have a '29 house that I'm working on the kitchen drain.

There are a whole series of ~ 2.4 " (OD) cast iron elbows that come
out of the wall and flow into the main line.

What I'd like to do is replumb that with PVC down to the existing
cast iron drain.

How do I do that without damaging the main line? What do I seal it
back up with later?

Jeff

I have PVC going from the tub into a flange on the main cast line. Looks
like some kind of hardened putty around the PVC where it goes into the
main flange. Hasn't leaked in 21 years. I think if I were to replace it
I'd use some silicone rubber to seal the PVC into the cast flange. I
think they used molten lead to seal the cast unions together. Don't know
how I would dig a piece of pipe out of the main line. It could be just
roped and doped in too. You'll find out once you cut the flow line from
the kitchen at the main line just how it's been sealed.

On 9/2/2010 8:55 AM, Hugh Jassolle wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 08:34:48 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:

I have a '29 house that I'm working on the kitchen drain.

There are a whole series of ~ 2.4 " (OD) cast iron elbows that come
out of the wall and flow into the main line.

What I'd like to do is replumb that with PVC down to the existing
cast iron drain.

How do I do that without damaging the main line? What do I seal it
back up with later?

Jeff

I have PVC going from the tub into a flange on the main cast line. Looks
like some kind of hardened putty around the PVC where it goes into the
main flange. Hasn't leaked in 21 years. I think if I were to replace it
I'd use some silicone rubber to seal the PVC into the cast flange. I
think they used molten lead to seal the cast unions together.


I'm thinking lead.

I think I'll cut the line going into the main drain just below the
next higher elbow. I could either use a no hub or Fernco (looks like a
heavy duty no hub to me). I'd kind of like to take the lead out so the
drain will end a little lower beneath the floor joists. Not sure my
torch would make a dent with all that cast iron to wick away the heat.

Jeff

Don't know
how I would dig a piece of pipe out of the main line. It could be just
roped and doped in too. You'll find out once you cut the flow line from
the kitchen at the main line just how it's been sealed.

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:26:01 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:

I have PVC going from the tub into a flange on the main cast line.
Looks like some kind of hardened putty around the PVC where it goes
into the main flange. Hasn't leaked in 21 years. I think if I were to
replace it I'd use some silicone rubber to seal the PVC into the cast
flange. I think they used molten lead to seal the cast unions together.


I'm thinking lead.

I think I'll cut the line going into the main drain just below the
next higher elbow. I could either use a no hub or Fernco (looks like a
heavy duty no hub to me). I'd kind of like to take the lead out so the
drain will end a little lower beneath the floor joists. Not sure my
torch would make a dent with all that cast iron to wick away the heat.

You won't do it with a hand held propane torch. You'll need a large
torch, one that runs off a 20lb propane tank. Be careful about building
code if you use flex couplings. Some locales don't allow them.

My acetylene torch would not get the lead out of my main. I tried for
quite some time.

My PVC is now connected with a fernco. About 10 years.

On Sep 2, 9:44*am, Hugh Jassolle wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:26:01 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:
I have PVC going from the tub into a flange on the main cast line.
Looks like some kind of hardened putty around the PVC where it goes
into the main flange. Hasn't leaked in 21 years. I think if I were to
replace it I'd use some silicone rubber to seal the PVC into the cast
flange. I think they used molten lead to seal the cast unions together..

I'm thinking lead.

* I think I'll cut the line going into the main drain just below the
next higher elbow. I could either use a no hub or Fernco (looks like a
heavy duty no hub to me). I'd kind of like to take the lead out so the
drain will end a little lower beneath the floor joists. Not sure my
torch would make a dent with all that cast iron to wick away the heat.

You won't do it with a hand held propane torch. You'll need a large
torch, one that runs off a 20lb propane tank. Be careful about building
code if you use flex couplings. Some locales don't allow them.

I had a cracked toilet flange replaced many years ago. I don't recall
what kind of torch the plumber (I know my limits!) used but I don't
recall it being all that hard for him to replace the flange. It was
kind of fun to watch the "old school" way of plumbing.

What we need today is a SharkBite toilet flange. ;-)

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:58:44 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Sep 2, 9:44Â*am, Hugh Jassolle wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:26:01 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:
I have PVC going from the tub into a flange on the main cast line.
Looks like some kind of hardened putty around the PVC where it goes
into the main flange. Hasn't leaked in 21 years. I think if I were
to replace it I'd use some silicone rubber to seal the PVC into the
cast flange. I think they used molten lead to seal the cast unions
together.

I'm thinking lead.

Â* I think I'll cut the line going into the main drain just below the
next higher elbow. I could either use a no hub or Fernco (looks like
a heavy duty no hub to me). I'd kind of like to take the lead out so
the drain will end a little lower beneath the floor joists. Not sure
my torch would make a dent with all that cast iron to wick away the
heat.

You won't do it with a hand held propane torch. You'll need a large
torch, one that runs off a 20lb propane tank. Be careful about building
code if you use flex couplings. Some locales don't allow them.

I had a cracked toilet flange replaced many years ago. I don't recall
what kind of torch the plumber (I know my limits!) used but I don't
recall it being all that hard for him to replace the flange. It was kind
of fun to watch the "old school" way of plumbing.

What we need today is a SharkBite toilet flange. ;-)

Was the flange on iron or lead? 50 or so years ago they used a lot of
lead verticals up to the flange from the main soil pipe. Since it was on
the end of the pipe it might have not taken as many BTU's as someone
trying to pull 2 inch pipe out of the middle of a soil tree.

On Sep 2, 10:58*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 2, 9:44*am, Hugh Jassolle wrote:



On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:26:01 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:
I have PVC going from the tub into a flange on the main cast line.
Looks like some kind of hardened putty around the PVC where it goes
into the main flange. Hasn't leaked in 21 years. I think if I were to
replace it I'd use some silicone rubber to seal the PVC into the cast
flange. I think they used molten lead to seal the cast unions together.

I'm thinking lead.

* I think I'll cut the line going into the main drain just below the
next higher elbow. I could either use a no hub or Fernco (looks like a
heavy duty no hub to me). I'd kind of like to take the lead out so the
drain will end a little lower beneath the floor joists. Not sure my
torch would make a dent with all that cast iron to wick away the heat..

You won't do it with a hand held propane torch. You'll need a large
torch, one that runs off a 20lb propane tank. Be careful about building
code if you use flex couplings. Some locales don't allow them.

I had a cracked toilet flange replaced many years ago. I don't recall
what kind of torch the plumber (I know my limits!) used but I don't
recall it being all that hard for him to replace the flange. It was
kind of fun to watch the "old school" way of plumbing.

What we need today is a SharkBite toilet flange. *;-)

Fernco makes internal-locking toilet flanges in 4 & 6 in.

On Sep 2, 2:11*pm, Hugh Jassolle wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:58:44 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 2, 9:44*am, Hugh Jassolle wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:26:01 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:
I have PVC going from the tub into a flange on the main cast line.
Looks like some kind of hardened putty around the PVC where it goes
into the main flange. Hasn't leaked in 21 years. I think if I were
to replace it I'd use some silicone rubber to seal the PVC into the
cast flange. I think they used molten lead to seal the cast unions
together.

I'm thinking lead.

* I think I'll cut the line going into the main drain just below the
next higher elbow. I could either use a no hub or Fernco (looks like
a heavy duty no hub to me). I'd kind of like to take the lead out so
the drain will end a little lower beneath the floor joists. Not sure
my torch would make a dent with all that cast iron to wick away the
heat.

You won't do it with a hand held propane torch. You'll need a large
torch, one that runs off a 20lb propane tank. Be careful about building
code if you use flex couplings. Some locales don't allow them.

I had a cracked toilet flange replaced many years ago. I don't recall
what kind of torch the plumber (I know my limits!) used but I don't
recall it being all that hard for him to replace the flange. It was kind
of fun to watch the "old school" way of plumbing.

What we need today is a SharkBite toilet flange. *;-)

Was the flange on iron or lead? 50 or so years ago they used a lot of
lead verticals up to the flange from the main soil pipe. Since it was on
the end of the pipe it might have not taken as many BTU's as someone
trying to pull 2 inch pipe out of the middle of a soil tree.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If I recall correctly, it was a caste flange on a caste pipe.

I know he used lead and oakum to put the new one in, but now that I
think about it I don't recall if he busted the old one out and then
just cleaned up the joint or if he actually melted it out.

Too long ago. Sorry.

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:02:18 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Sep 2, 2:11Â*pm, Hugh Jassolle wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:58:44 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 2, 9:44Â*am, Hugh Jassolle wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:26:01 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:
I have PVC going from the tub into a flange on the main cast
line. Looks like some kind of hardened putty around the PVC where
it goes into the main flange. Hasn't leaked in 21 years. I think
if I were to replace it I'd use some silicone rubber to seal the
PVC into the cast flange. I think they used molten lead to seal
the cast unions together.

I'm thinking lead.

Â* I think I'll cut the line going into the main drain just below
Â* the
next higher elbow. I could either use a no hub or Fernco (looks
like a heavy duty no hub to me). I'd kind of like to take the lead
out so the drain will end a little lower beneath the floor joists.
Not sure my torch would make a dent with all that cast iron to
wick away the heat.

You won't do it with a hand held propane torch. You'll need a large
torch, one that runs off a 20lb propane tank. Be careful about
building code if you use flex couplings. Some locales don't allow
them.

I had a cracked toilet flange replaced many years ago. I don't recall
what kind of torch the plumber (I know my limits!) used but I don't
recall it being all that hard for him to replace the flange. It was
kind of fun to watch the "old school" way of plumbing.

What we need today is a SharkBite toilet flange. Â*;-)

Was the flange on iron or lead? 50 or so years ago they used a lot of
lead verticals up to the flange from the main soil pipe. Since it was
on the end of the pipe it might have not taken as many BTU's as someone
trying to pull 2 inch pipe out of the middle of a soil tree.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If I recall correctly, it was a caste flange on a caste pipe.

I know he used lead and oakum to put the new one in, but now that I
think about it I don't recall if he busted the old one out and then just
cleaned up the joint or if he actually melted it out.

Too long ago. Sorry.

That's ok LOL. I did a whole bunch of those starting out as a plumber's
apprentice back in the 70's. And wouldn't hesitate tackling my cast soil
tree. I recently put a flange repair kit atop the lead riser under my new
toilet. I didn't feel like ripping the lead out and replacing it with
cast. One thing though, unless the floor is 100% sound around the flange
the lead pipe will eventually deform. I used a large tube of silicone
to seal from below and above and to help stabilize the area because I
didn't want to get into reflooring the bathroom and fixing it like it
should have been fixed. I wasn't feeling well and without a working
commode this was the quickest way to do it. Surprisingly it's held up
well. The toilet is solidly bolted to the floor and leak-free. One day I
will have to do it right if I own this house long enough.

On Sep 2, 5:16*pm, Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:02:18 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 2, 2:11*pm, Hugh Jassolle wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 10:58:44 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 2, 9:44*am, Hugh Jassolle wrote:
On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 09:26:01 -0400, Jeff Thies wrote:
I have PVC going from the tub into a flange on the main cast
line. Looks like some kind of hardened putty around the PVC where
it goes into the main flange. Hasn't leaked in 21 years. I think
if I were to replace it I'd use some silicone rubber to seal the
PVC into the cast flange. I think they used molten lead to seal
the cast unions together.

I'm thinking lead.

* I think I'll cut the line going into the main drain just below
* the
next higher elbow. I could either use a no hub or Fernco (looks
like a heavy duty no hub to me). I'd kind of like to take the lead
out so the drain will end a little lower beneath the floor joists..
Not sure my torch would make a dent with all that cast iron to
wick away the heat.

You won't do it with a hand held propane torch. You'll need a large
torch, one that runs off a 20lb propane tank. Be careful about
building code if you use flex couplings. Some locales don't allow
them.

I had a cracked toilet flange replaced many years ago. I don't recall
what kind of torch the plumber (I know my limits!) used but I don't
recall it being all that hard for him to replace the flange. It was
kind of fun to watch the "old school" way of plumbing.

What we need today is a SharkBite toilet flange. *;-)

Was the flange on iron or lead? 50 or so years ago they used a lot of
lead verticals up to the flange from the main soil pipe. Since it was
on the end of the pipe it might have not taken as many BTU's as someone
trying to pull 2 inch pipe out of the middle of a soil tree.- Hide
quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If I recall correctly, it was a caste flange on a caste pipe.

I know he used lead and oakum to put the new one in, but now that I
think about it I don't recall if he busted the old one out and then just
cleaned up the joint or if he actually melted it out.

Too long ago. Sorry.

That's ok LOL. I did a whole bunch of those starting out as a plumber's
apprentice back in the 70's. And wouldn't hesitate tackling my cast soil
tree. I recently put a flange repair kit atop the lead riser under my new
toilet. I didn't feel like ripping the lead out and replacing it with
cast. One thing though, unless the floor is 100% sound around the flange
the lead pipe will eventually deform. I used a large tube of silicone
to seal from below and above and to help stabilize the area because I
didn't want to get into reflooring the bathroom and fixing it like it
should have been fixed. I wasn't feeling well and without a working
commode this was the quickest way to do it. Surprisingly it's held up
well. The toilet is solidly bolted to the floor and leak-free. One day I
will have to do it right if I own this house long enough.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

i would inspect main soil stack at this age it may be rusted bad from
inside...and need replaced

Jeff Thies wrote:
I have a '29 house that I'm working on the kitchen drain.

There are a whole series of ~ 2.4 " (OD) cast iron elbows that come
out of the wall and flow into the main line.

What I'd like to do is replumb that with PVC down to the existing
cast iron drain.

How do I do that without damaging the main line? What do I seal it
back up with later?

There's a rubber seal that goes into the iron fitting, then the PVC goes into
the rubber. There are a couple thickenesses or the rubber seal for varying
fittings.

Bob F wrote:
Jeff Thies wrote:
I have a '29 house that I'm working on the kitchen drain.

There are a whole series of ~ 2.4 " (OD) cast iron elbows that come
out of the wall and flow into the main line.

What I'd like to do is replumb that with PVC down to the existing
cast iron drain.

How do I do that without damaging the main line? What do I seal it
back up with later?

There's a rubber seal that goes into the iron fitting, then the PVC
goes into the rubber. There are a couple thickenesses or the rubber
seal for varying fittings.

See Donuts http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings

On 9/2/2010 9:39 PM, Bob F wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Jeff Thies wrote:
I have a '29 house that I'm working on the kitchen drain.

There are a whole series of ~ 2.4 " (OD) cast iron elbows that come
out of the wall and flow into the main line.

What I'd like to do is replumb that with PVC down to the existing
cast iron drain.

How do I do that without damaging the main line? What do I seal it
back up with later?

There's a rubber seal that goes into the iron fitting, then the PVC
goes into the rubber. There are a couple thickenesses or the rubber
seal for varying fittings.

See Donuts http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings


Ow!

Is this something a good plumbing supply place would stock? I'm
thinking Fernco wouldn't want to be hearing from one off me.

Jeff

Jeff Thies wrote:
On 9/2/2010 9:39 PM, Bob F wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Jeff Thies wrote:
I have a '29 house that I'm working on the kitchen drain.

There are a whole series of ~ 2.4 " (OD) cast iron elbows that
come out of the wall and flow into the main line.

What I'd like to do is replumb that with PVC down to the
existing cast iron drain.

How do I do that without damaging the main line? What do I seal
it back up with later?

There's a rubber seal that goes into the iron fitting, then the PVC
goes into the rubber. There are a couple thickenesses or the rubber
seal for varying fittings.

See Donuts http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings


Ow!

Is this something a good plumbing supply place would stock? I'm
thinking Fernco wouldn't want to be hearing from one off me.

Exactly.