I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. But even that has a
considerable failure rate. Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. Thx, -- H

Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. But even that has a
considerable failure rate. Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. Thx, -- H

Are you scoring it deeply enough?? The only experience I had was that
if the score mark was not deep it sometimes did not follow the mark.
Try making the score mark deeper.

On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

Are they porcelain tile? They're harder and more trouble to cut with
a score and snap cutter. With such a high breakage rate renting a wet
saw for a day (or buying one - they're fairly cheap and useful) will
make things a lot easier on you.

R

On Sep 1, 12:47*pm, RicodJour wrote:
*With such a high breakage rate renting a wet
saw for a day (or buying one - they're fairly cheap and useful) will
make things a lot easier on you.


Last time I did a tile floor I had a high breakage rate.

I gave up. I marked each tile and took it to the store where I bought
it. They cut them all perfectly on their saw. I think they charged
me ten cents each, which saved me a fortune in broken ones. It was
even cheaper than renting a mud saw, and they knew what they were
doing.

On Sep 1, 11:47*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:



I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

Are they porcelain tile? *They're harder and more trouble to cut with
a score and snap cutter. *With such a high breakage rate renting a wet
saw for a day (or buying one - they're fairly cheap and useful) will
make things a lot easier on you.

I'd buy a Harbor Freight saw, or at least a diamond blade for a
circular saw. HF saws start at $30 and go up to a few hundred. Even
if it's a one-time use, the results will be a lot better.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...ry=&q=tile+saw

On Sep 1, 11:30*am, Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

If you insist on doing it the hard and expensive way then:

1. Make sure the score line is all the way across the tile and as
deep as you can make it. Repeat the scoring process several times if
necessary. A smooth surface tile may score easily but any texture in
the surface will make the scoring operation more difficult.

2. Place a small dowl under the tile directly under the score line for
the full width of the tile.

3. Use a couple of boards to spread the force over the entire width of
the tile during the snapping operation. Hold one side down firmly
while making a quick and firm pressure on the other side. What you
want is for the entire break line to snap at once.

4. Rent a saw, those 12 inch tiles are expensive and its worth it if
for no other reason than ending the frustration.

Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. But even that has a
considerable failure rate. Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. Thx, -- H

Score it. Lay the tile on top of a 1/4" dowel with the dowel under the
score line. Apply pressure to both sides, quickly and evenly, to snap
the tile on the score line. Works (most of the time) with glass )

Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. But even that has a
considerable failure rate. Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. Thx, -- H

I got to a solution with a different problem.

My tiles were 13x13" and wouldn't fit in the scoring device.

I used an angle grinder and (a lot) of masonary wheels.

End result was swell.

keith wrote in
:

On Sep 1, 11:47*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff
wrote:



I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will
mainl
y
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a
cutter where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a
glass cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a
straight line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along
the surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part
that's giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you
put the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply
leverage; I've used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it
did not work well for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various
other methods - the best luck I've had so far is putting the scored
tile in the workbench clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet.
*But even that has a considerable failure rate. *Failures range
from the snap deviating from the score, to the tile just breaking
into many pieces. *I think part of the problem is that the clamp
jaws are only about 4 inches wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the
scored tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it.
*Thx, -
- H

Are they porcelain tile? *They're harder and more trouble to cut with
a score and snap cutter. *With such a high breakage rate renting a
wet saw for a day (or buying one - they're fairly cheap and useful)
will make things a lot easier on you.

I'd buy a Harbor Freight saw, or at least a diamond blade for a
circular saw. HF saws start at $30 and go up to a few hundred. Even
if it's a one-time use, the results will be a lot better.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...ry=&q=tile+saw



And if there's no HF around and you're in a hurry, even the Borg has
them. Low end 7" ones for $100 including blade(s). Replacement blades
in the $25 range. Works fine. Just did a bath, mudd and kitchen.

BTW, if you happen to have a RotoZip with an a diamond blade for it, it
works great for cutting out notches/inside corners. I'm sure an angle
grinder with a masonary wheel works too.

On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H


If you don't know how to cut the tiles you shouldn't be laying a tile
floor... The cuts on a tile floor show the level of craftsmanship of
the person who laid it...

You are trying to cut tiles that are too large and too thick in a hand
operated machine meant for cutting smaller and thinner tiles... As
others have said you need to score the thicker tiles SEVERAL
times in the same place before attempting to snap it...

Flooring tiles are best cut with a wet saw... The fact that you are
unwilling to do this because of expense or skill in using it is an
indicator that while you know how to stick the tiles down you really
don't know as much about tiling as you think you do and should
either learn how to use the wet saw (which is the proper tool for
the job at hand) which will allow you a NEAR ZERO breakage
rate or you can keep playing your DIY for Dummies "let's see if
I can snap the tiles with this tool" game rather than using the
ones the professionals use...

~~ Evan

On Sep 1, 5:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

You need a bigger floor tile cutter/breaker. A proper one snaps the
tiles no problem. You can get them very cheaply.
If the cut is deviating, it's usually because your score is
discontinuous. You need to do one score mark only, with no breaks in
it.
If you have a 4" angle grinder, you can get a daimond blade quite
cheaply. When you get to external corners, you will need one anyway.

"Heathcliff" wrote in message
...
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. But even that has a
considerable failure rate. Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

I'd probably get a wet saw (what fun is DIY if it doesn't result in owning a
new tool?). But if that wasn't an option, I would take some hardwood strips
and make slip-on jaws for the clamp so that you had a hard edge running the
entire length of the tile. Then, I'd cut another piece of plywood in the
shape of a 12" triangle with one point sawed off about 1" in. This will
distribute the impact force across most of the tile at the scored area and
it *should* break cleanly. Again, score as firmly as you can and don't try
to squeeze too many cuts out of one scoring tool. I saw a master
paperhanger at work once and what really stuck in my mind is that he used a
razor blade for at most three or four cuts and then went to a new one. If
your scoring tool doesn't leave a very clean, easy to see mark, it's time to
get another one.

Let us know what you decide to do. The dowel trick others have mentioned is
also a good one, but I find it easier to use a clamp. You can even use the
technique above with some C-clamps and a work bench. Clamp the tile with
the hardwood strips to the bench top letting the part you want to cut off
overhang the table top. Position your triangular "whacker" over the
unsupported edge and bam. Which way have you been hitting the tile? On
the scored side or the reverse?

--
Bobby G.

Evan wrote:


If you don't know how to cut the tiles you shouldn't be laying a tile
floor... The cuts on a tile floor show the level of craftsmanship of
the person who laid it...

You are trying to cut tiles that are too large and too thick in a hand
operated machine meant for cutting smaller and thinner tiles... As
others have said you need to score the thicker tiles SEVERAL
times in the same place before attempting to snap it...

Flooring tiles are best cut with a wet saw... The fact that you are
unwilling to do this because of expense or skill in using it is an
indicator that while you know how to stick the tiles down you really
don't know as much about tiling as you think you do and should
either learn how to use the wet saw (which is the proper tool for
the job at hand) which will allow you a NEAR ZERO breakage
rate or you can keep playing your DIY for Dummies "let's see if
I can snap the tiles with this tool" game rather than using the
ones the professionals use...


The Titanic was built by professionals, the Ark by an amateur.

The OP, although a beginner, wants to do a craftsmanlike job; that's why
he's asking questions.

Noah had his own problems (i.e., turtledoves only came in dozens, the
badgers were delivered to the wrong address, his three sons, Ham, Seth, and
Japeth formed a rap group and his wife joined an "awareness encounter"
seminar).

Still, through trial and error, he got it done and the vessel turned out
okay.

On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

The tile saw is really the way to go. Lay all your center tiles.
Mark all the edge tiles that need cutting. Go rent the saw. Most
places have a 4 hour rental.

After I did a couple bathrooms that way I decided a 6" saw was worth
the price. I think I paid a couple hundred. I've done 3 more rooms
since I got the saw. It's nice to be able to cut on your own
schedule. I'm doing the last bath soon. Got the tile, just need to
get the backer board and get started.

On Sep 1, 8:16*pm, Red Green wrote:
keith wrote :



On Sep 1, 11:47*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff
wrote:

I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will
mainl
y
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a
cutter where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a
glass cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a
straight line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along
the surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part
that's giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you
put the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply
leverage; I've used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it
did not work well for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various
other methods - the best luck I've had so far is putting the scored
tile in the workbench clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet.
*But even that has a considerable failure rate. *Failures range
from the snap deviating from the score, to the tile just breaking
into many pieces. *I think part of the problem is that the clamp
jaws are only about 4 inches wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the
scored tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it.
*Thx, -
- H

Are they porcelain tile? *They're harder and more trouble to cut with
a score and snap cutter. *With such a high breakage rate renting a
wet saw for a day (or buying one - they're fairly cheap and useful)
will make things a lot easier on you.

I'd buy a Harbor Freight saw, or at least a diamond blade for a
circular saw. *HF saws start at $30 and go up to a few hundred. *Even
if it's a one-time use, the results will be a lot better.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...ry=&q=tile+saw

And if there's no HF around and you're in a hurry, even the Borg has
them. Low end 7" ones for $100 including blade(s). Replacement blades
in the $25 range. Works fine. Just did a bath, mudd and kitchen.

BTW, if you happen to have a RotoZip with an a diamond blade for it, it
works great for cutting out notches/inside corners. I'm sure an angle
grinder with a masonary wheel works too.

Floor tile just laughed at my RotoZip (and the cutter just blushed -
brightly). I ended up doing the cutouts for the toilet flanges with
the hole-of-a-thousand-cuts method, on my wet saw.

On Sep 1, 5:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

On ceramic tiles the TC scriber will go blunt quite quickly. I have a
diamond scoring device, ie a single diamond mounted in a scriber.
They last virtually forever. I imagine you can get them in America.
You could use your wedding ring. Don't tell the wife. Heh Heh!

On Sep 2, 12:20*am, Evan wrote:
On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:





I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

If you don't know how to cut the tiles you shouldn't be laying a tile
floor... *The cuts on a tile floor show the level of craftsmanship of
the person who laid it...

You are trying to cut tiles that are too large and too thick in a hand
operated machine meant for cutting smaller and thinner tiles... *As
others have said you need to score the thicker tiles SEVERAL
times in the same place before attempting to snap it...

Flooring tiles are best cut with a wet saw... *The fact that you are
unwilling to do this because of expense or skill in using it is an
indicator that while you know how to stick the tiles down you really
don't know as much about tiling as you think you do and should
either learn how to use the wet saw (which is the proper tool for
the job at hand) which will allow you a NEAR ZERO breakage
rate or you can keep playing your DIY for Dummies "let's see if
I can snap the tiles with this tool" game rather than using the
ones the professionals use...

~~ Evan- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"If you don't know how to cut the tiles you shouldn't be laying a
tile floor..."

At least not until you ask a few questions so you can get it right.

"The cuts on a tile floor show the level of craftsmanship of the
person who laid it... "

And once he learns the correct method, I'm sure the floor will come
out fine.

Did you know everything about everything the first time you tried it
or did you do some trial and error and ask a few questions?

You could have expended a lot less energy by just answering the OP's
question without the arrogant attitude.

On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

BTDT...but I did it with some cheap practice tiles so I didn't waste
any of my good ones.

My issue was a perfect cut except for sometimes where it left the line
about 1 - 2 inch from the end and then I'd get a arcing crack.

Once I came to the realization that the "score and snap" method wasn't
going to do it, I made all my cuts on an inexpensive wet saw.

It's amazing the cuts you can make with a wet saw and a little
patience. Just like with a band saw, you can nipple away at the tile
to cut square notches and curves as per this link:

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/CMS/...eos/hvt214.jpg

On Sep 2, 7:44*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
Evan wrote:

If you don't know how to cut the tiles you shouldn't be laying a tile
floor... *The cuts on a tile floor show the level of craftsmanship of
the person who laid it...

You are trying to cut tiles that are too large and too thick in a hand
operated machine meant for cutting smaller and thinner tiles... *As
others have said you need to score the thicker tiles SEVERAL
times in the same place before attempting to snap it...

Flooring tiles are best cut with a wet saw... *The fact that you are
unwilling to do this because of expense or skill in using it is an
indicator that while you know how to stick the tiles down you really
don't know as much about tiling as you think you do and should
either learn how to use the wet saw (which is the proper tool for
the job at hand) which will allow you a NEAR ZERO breakage
rate or you can keep playing your DIY for Dummies "let's see if
I can snap the tiles with this tool" game rather than using the
ones the professionals use...

The Titanic was built by professionals, the Ark by an amateur.

The OP, although a beginner, wants to do a craftsmanlike job; that's why
he's asking questions.

Noah had his own problems (i.e., turtledoves only came in dozens, the
badgers were delivered to the wrong address, his three sons, Ham, Seth, and
Japeth formed a rap group and his wife joined an "awareness encounter"
seminar).

Still, through trial and error, he got it done and the vessel turned out
okay.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Speaking of Noah...

http://c0389161.cdn.cloudfiles.racks...3354.full..gif

On Sep 2, 3:40*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:





I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

BTDT...but I did it with some cheap practice tiles so I didn't waste
any of my good ones.

My issue was a perfect cut except for sometimes where it left the line
about 1 - 2 inch from the end and then I'd get a arcing crack.

Once I came to the realization that the "score and snap" method wasn't
going to do it, I made all my cuts on an inexpensive wet saw.

It's amazing the cuts you can make with a wet saw and a little
patience. Just like with a band saw, you can nipple away at the tile
to cut square notches and curves as per this link:

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/CMS/...omebuildin...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I gutted and redid our master bath a couple of years ago. I
considered renting a saw but realized that the size of my project
would mean having to rent it for several weekends and the combined
cost and hassle just wasn't worth it. I looked at the cheap table
style saws available from HomeDepot and Lowes and while they were
cheap they were really CHEAP! Finally went to Harbor Freight and
bought their 2.5 HP Tile and Brick saw #95385 for a discounted $179.
I used it through out the project which include far more cuts than
normal since I couldn't find matching 4" tiles for the shower floor
and ceiling to match the floor tiles so I cut them from 13" floor
tiles. The saw worked without a hitch and I am about to pull it out
of storage to do the backsplash in a totally remodeled kitchen. After
that, there is another bath the wife is wanting me to redo. It was
worth every cent.

On Sep 2, 4:58*pm, BobR wrote:
On Sep 2, 3:40*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:



On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:

I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

BTDT...but I did it with some cheap practice tiles so I didn't waste
any of my good ones.

My issue was a perfect cut except for sometimes where it left the line
about 1 - 2 inch from the end and then I'd get a arcing crack.

Once I came to the realization that the "score and snap" method wasn't
going to do it, I made all my cuts on an inexpensive wet saw.

It's amazing the cuts you can make with a wet saw and a little
patience. Just like with a band saw, you can nipple away at the tile
to cut square notches and curves as per this link:

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/CMS/...buildin...Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I gutted and redid our master bath a couple of years ago. *I
considered renting a saw but realized that the size of my project
would mean having to rent it for several weekends and the combined
cost and hassle just wasn't worth it. *I looked at the cheap table
style saws available from HomeDepot and Lowes and while they were
cheap they were really CHEAP! *Finally went to Harbor Freight and
bought their 2.5 HP Tile and Brick saw #95385 for a discounted $179.
I used it through out the project which include far more cuts than
normal since I couldn't find matching 4" tiles for the shower floor
and ceiling to match the floor tiles so I cut them from 13" floor
tiles. *The saw worked without a hitch and I am about to pull it out
of storage to do the backsplash in a totally remodeled kitchen. *After
that, there is another bath the wife is wanting me to redo. *It was
worth every cent.

When I said "I made all my cuts on an inexpensive wet saw" I should
have added that it was really inexpensive: A friend bought it at HD
and I borrowed it! :-)

I don't know what he paid but I think it was between $100 and $150.

I recall that something was broken...the fence or miter gauge or guard
or something. I fixed whatever it was - I think I had to make some
kind of part, but what he got back was better than what he lent me.

I found out a year later that he left outside all winter and it got
trashed. Don't know what I'm gonna do next time I have to tile
something. ;-)

On Sep 1, 11:30*am, Heathcliff wrote:
I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

Thanks for the many useful replies. A few responses -

-- re-scoring - I'm a little skeptical about re-scoring. I was taught
in stained glass class that a single score is best, re-scoring tends
to mess up both the score and the cutter. I don't know if that
strictly applies here but I have scored and snapped a lot of glass,
and many thinner tiles, without undue problems. In short, I think the
scoring is fine, I know how a good score feels, sounds and looks.

-- dowel method - I'll try that and see how it goes. Sounds like it
might work well as long as the cut is close to the middle of the tile;
might be awkward if the cut is way over to one side.

-- wet saw - sounds like I may need to do that after all. I like the
idea of laying the full tiles first, saving all the cuts for the end.
I do have an HF and borg stores nearby so I might look around and
decide if renting or buying is better. I am, as others have
mentioned, learning as I go. That has worked for me before.

-- having the store cut them - I'm not sure the big box offers that
kind of service, but I will ask next time I'm in there to pick up some
more tile. I'm doing the job a little at a time as time permits (and
to spare my back).

-- hardwood clamp jigs - that sounds like fun, I might try that too.

Thanks, -- H

On Sep 2, 4:26*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sep 2, 4:58*pm, BobR wrote:





On Sep 2, 3:40*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:

I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

BTDT...but I did it with some cheap practice tiles so I didn't waste
any of my good ones.

My issue was a perfect cut except for sometimes where it left the line
about 1 - 2 inch from the end and then I'd get a arcing crack.

Once I came to the realization that the "score and snap" method wasn't
going to do it, I made all my cuts on an inexpensive wet saw.

It's amazing the cuts you can make with a wet saw and a little
patience. Just like with a band saw, you can nipple away at the tile
to cut square notches and curves as per this link:

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/CMS/...ldin....quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I gutted and redid our master bath a couple of years ago. *I
considered renting a saw but realized that the size of my project
would mean having to rent it for several weekends and the combined
cost and hassle just wasn't worth it. *I looked at the cheap table
style saws available from HomeDepot and Lowes and while they were
cheap they were really CHEAP! *Finally went to Harbor Freight and
bought their 2.5 HP Tile and Brick saw #95385 for a discounted $179.
I used it through out the project which include far more cuts than
normal since I couldn't find matching 4" tiles for the shower floor
and ceiling to match the floor tiles so I cut them from 13" floor
tiles. *The saw worked without a hitch and I am about to pull it out
of storage to do the backsplash in a totally remodeled kitchen. *After
that, there is another bath the wife is wanting me to redo. *It was
worth every cent.

When I said "I made all my cuts on an inexpensive wet saw" I should
have added that it was really inexpensive: A friend bought it at HD
and I borrowed it! :-)


That is cheating! Just wish I could have done the same but new city,
old neighborhood and didn't know anyone.

I don't know what he paid but I think it was between $100 and $150.

I recall that something was broken...the fence or miter gauge or guard
or something. *I fixed whatever it was - I think I had to make some
kind of part, but what he got back was better than what he lent me.

I found out a year later that he left outside all winter and it got
trashed. Don't know what I'm gonna do next time I have to tile
something. ;-)-

If you can't negotiate a new tool out of any project then you
shouldn't be doing it. That is always a condition for any project
that I undertake and I do at least one major project every year.
(Make that only one major project every year.) This year is gutting
and remodeling the kitchen. Building all the cabinets myself so that
required a new table saw, dovetail jig, router table and router.
Cabinets done, drawers done (14) and about half of the 32 cabinet
doors complete. A few more weekends and I will be ready to install.
The only thing I am dreading is pulling out the old tile floor and
replacing with wood. My knees just don't like all that crawling
around anymore. ? Wonder what tool I could negotiate for that?

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 14:26:04 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

When I said "I made all my cuts on an inexpensive wet saw" I should have
added that it was really inexpensive: A friend bought it at HD and I
borrowed it! :-)

I don't know what he paid but I think it was between $100 and $150.

I got a wet saw from HD for around 70 bucks earlier in the year - it's
poor construction quality in terms of the plastic-fantastic chassis, but
it did the job I needed to do without screwing up any tiles. I've got a
couple more floors I want to do with it sometime, so figured it'd be
cheaper than renting each time.

cheers

Jules

On Sep 2, 6:10*pm, BobR wrote:
On Sep 2, 4:26*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:



On Sep 2, 4:58*pm, BobR wrote:

On Sep 2, 3:40*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Sep 1, 12:30*pm, Heathcliff wrote:

I am laying 12X12 glazed ceramic floor tile and naturally a lot of
them have to be cut. *So far all the cutting has been (and will mainly
continue to be) straight line across the whole tile. *I have a cutter
where you put the tile in and run a carbide wheel, like a glass
cutter, along the tile. *A guide bar keep you going in a straight
line. *It does a good job of giving a straight score along the
surface, and then you snap the tile. *It's the snapping part that's
giving me problems.

The tile cutter has a built in gizmo with a little tab where you put
the tile in vertically and use the cutting bar to apply leverage; I've
used that before with smaller thinner tiles, but it did not work well
for these sturdy 12X12s. *I've tried various other methods - the best
luck I've had so far is putting the scored tile in the workbench
clamp, then whacking it with a rubber mallet. *But even that has a
considerable failure rate. *Failures range from the snap deviating
from the score, to the tile just breaking into many pieces. *I think
part of the problem is that the clamp jaws are only about 4 inches
wide.

What I'm hoping for is a good tip on a better way to snap the scored
tile. *I don't really want to rent a saw if I can avoid it. *Thx, -- H

BTDT...but I did it with some cheap practice tiles so I didn't waste
any of my good ones.

My issue was a perfect cut except for sometimes where it left the line
about 1 - 2 inch from the end and then I'd get a arcing crack.

Once I came to the realization that the "score and snap" method wasn't
going to do it, I made all my cuts on an inexpensive wet saw.

It's amazing the cuts you can make with a wet saw and a little
patience. Just like with a band saw, you can nipple away at the tile
to cut square notches and curves as per this link:

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/CMS/...buildin...text -

- Show quoted text -

I gutted and redid our master bath a couple of years ago. *I
considered renting a saw but realized that the size of my project
would mean having to rent it for several weekends and the combined
cost and hassle just wasn't worth it. *I looked at the cheap table
style saws available from HomeDepot and Lowes and while they were
cheap they were really CHEAP! *Finally went to Harbor Freight and
bought their 2.5 HP Tile and Brick saw #95385 for a discounted $179.
I used it through out the project which include far more cuts than
normal since I couldn't find matching 4" tiles for the shower floor
and ceiling to match the floor tiles so I cut them from 13" floor
tiles. *The saw worked without a hitch and I am about to pull it out
of storage to do the backsplash in a totally remodeled kitchen. *After
that, there is another bath the wife is wanting me to redo. *It was
worth every cent.

When I said "I made all my cuts on an inexpensive wet saw" I should
have added that it was really inexpensive: A friend bought it at HD
and I borrowed it! :-)

That is cheating! *Just wish I could have done the same but new city,
old neighborhood and didn't know anyone.

I don't know what he paid but I think it was between $100 and $150.

I recall that something was broken...the fence or miter gauge or guard
or something. *I fixed whatever it was - I think I had to make some
kind of part, but what he got back was better than what he lent me.

I found out a year later that he left outside all winter and it got
trashed. Don't know what I'm gonna do next time I have to tile
something. ;-)-

If you can't negotiate a new tool out of any project then you
shouldn't be doing it. *That is always a condition for any project
that I undertake and I do at least one major project every year.
(Make that only one major project every year.) *This year is gutting
and remodeling the kitchen. *Building all the cabinets myself so that
required a new table saw, dovetail jig, router table and router.
Cabinets done, drawers done (14) and about half of the 32 cabinet
doors complete. *A few more weekends and I will be ready to install.
The only thing I am dreading is pulling out the old tile floor and
replacing with wood. *My knees just don't like all that crawling
around anymore. *? Wonder what tool I could negotiate for that?


"My knees just don't like all that crawling around anymore"

I've resigned myself to using knee pads and large sheets of cardboard
a long time ago. I have a rubber kneeling pad that hangs out near my
toolbox which I often toss in the van.

No vanity issues for me - I ain't proud!

I caught softball for many years and my knees keep reminding me about
how much fun I had.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:0572a23d-215d-47e6-9168-

stuff snipped

Just like with a band saw, you can nipple away at the tile
to cut square notches and curves as per this link:

Nipple? (0:

--
Bobby G.

On Sep 2, 12:44*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Evan wrote:

If you don't know how to cut the tiles you shouldn't be laying a tile
floor... *The cuts on a tile floor show the level of craftsmanship of
the person who laid it...

You are trying to cut tiles that are too large and too thick in a hand
operated machine meant for cutting smaller and thinner tiles... *As
others have said you need to score the thicker tiles SEVERAL
times in the same place before attempting to snap it...

Flooring tiles are best cut with a wet saw... *The fact that you are
unwilling to do this because of expense or skill in using it is an
indicator that while you know how to stick the tiles down you really
don't know as much about tiling as you think you do and should
either learn how to use the wet saw (which is the proper tool for
the job at hand) which will allow you a NEAR ZERO breakage
rate or you can keep playing your DIY for Dummies "let's see if
I can snap the tiles with this tool" game rather than using the
ones the professionals use...

The Titanic was built by professionals, the Ark by an amateur.

The OP, although a beginner, wants to do a craftsmanlike job; that's why
he's asking questions.

Noah had his own problems (i.e., turtledoves only came in dozens, the
badgers were delivered to the wrong address, his three sons, Ham, Seth, and
Japeth formed a rap group and his wife joined an "awareness encounter"
seminar).

Still, through trial and error, he got it done and the vessel turned out
okay.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Noah never existed.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:dd2cbb0a-8fa8-4521-891c-

stuff snipped

"My knees just don't like all that crawling around anymore"

I've resigned myself to using knee pads and large sheets of cardboard
a long time ago. I have a rubber kneeling pad that hangs out near my
toolbox which I often toss in the van.

No vanity issues for me - I ain't proud!

I caught softball for many years and my knees keep reminding me about
how much fun I had.

Wait a few years. Then you'll be thinking "if only I could get UP from the
floor after I've been down on my knees." I've tried everything - auto
maintenance dollies, custom dollies, kneepads, cardboard, old pillows,
blocks of foam, etc. I've got a tile repair to make in the kitchen that I
have been putting off waiting for a "good knee day" but so far, no luck.
What I need is something like an engine hoist to raise and lower me to the
ground. Being there isn't any near as hard as getting there!

P.S. - No softball here. Nothing fun I can remember. The knees just blew
out, both within six months of each other.

)-:

--
Bobby G.

"harry" wrote in message news:59dde442-d951-4283-aeb2-

stuff snipped

The OP, although a beginner, wants to do a craftsmanlike job; that's why
he's asking questions.

Noah had his own problems (i.e., turtledoves only came in dozens, the
badgers were delivered to the wrong address, his three sons, Ham, Seth,
and
Japeth formed a rap group and his wife joined an "awareness encounter"
seminar).

Still, through trial and error, he got it done and the vessel turned out
okay.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Noah never existed.

Prove it.

--
Bobby G.

BobR wrote:
If you can't negotiate a new tool out of any project then you
shouldn't be doing it. That is always a condition for any project
that I undertake and I do at least one major project every year.
(Make that only one major project every year.) This year is gutting
and remodeling the kitchen. Building all the cabinets myself so that
required a new table saw, dovetail jig, router table and router.
Cabinets done, drawers done (14) and about half of the 32 cabinet
doors complete. A few more weekends and I will be ready to install.
The only thing I am dreading is pulling out the old tile floor and
replacing with wood. My knees just don't like all that crawling
around anymore. ? Wonder what tool I could negotiate for that?

checkbook?

hiring a tiler would be cheaper than 2 knee replacements.