Just FYI - following some links I did locate a discussion about
locating the thyristor/thermistor (whatever) located near the control
board mounted in the uppor door. I did remove the item (described as
the silver thing mounted on the white plastic mount with the two
connector tabs on it). I don't see any evidence of overheating,
smell, etc. Using a VM meter this shows an open circuit. Is this
correct? Shouldn't it be normally closed? Any other way to test
this? Or is this the suspect failure?

Just very eager to know!!! Thanks

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
Just FYI - following some links I did locate a discussion about
locating the thyristor/thermistor (whatever) located near the control
board mounted in the uppor door. I did remove the item (described as
the silver thing mounted on the white plastic mount with the two
connector tabs on it). I don't see any evidence of overheating,
smell, etc. Using a VM meter this shows an open circuit. Is this
correct? Shouldn't it be normally closed? Any other way to test
this? Or is this the suspect failure?

Just very eager to know!!! Thanks


It would probably make more sense to determine that you have power to the
machine, before trying to diagnose internal component issues.

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
Just FYI - following some links I did locate a discussion about
locating the thyristor/thermistor (whatever) located near the control
board mounted in the uppor door. I did remove the item (described as
the silver thing mounted on the white plastic mount with the two
connector tabs on it). I don't see any evidence of overheating,
smell, etc. Using a VM meter this shows an open circuit. Is this
correct? Shouldn't it be normally closed? Any other way to test
this? Or is this the suspect failure?

Just very eager to know!!! Thanks


Missed round two and went directly to round tow. Did you test voltage at the
DW junction box connecting your tester to line and neutral?, or from line to
ground? It's important to be sure you have both a hot leg and a neutral, as
either can be open. Once this is determined, go to step 2 and determine what
safety interlocks, such as a door switch, may be open, preventing power from
getting to the control board

On 8/15/2010 11:57 AM, RBM wrote:
wrote in message
...
Just FYI - following some links I did locate a discussion about
locating the thyristor/thermistor (whatever) located near the control
board mounted in the uppor door. I did remove the item (described as
the silver thing mounted on the white plastic mount with the two
connector tabs on it). I don't see any evidence of overheating,
smell, etc. Using a VM meter this shows an open circuit. Is this
correct? Shouldn't it be normally closed? Any other way to test
this? Or is this the suspect failure?

Just very eager to know!!! Thanks


Missed round two and went directly to round tow. Did you test voltage at the
DW junction box connecting your tester to line and neutral?, or from line to
ground? It's important to be sure you have both a hot leg and a neutral, as
either can be open. Once this is determined, go to step 2 and determine what
safety interlocks, such as a door switch, may be open, preventing power from
getting to the control board



I'm with RBM on this.

Repair by randomly replacing parts is a bad plan. Is your mystery
device on the power input side? It's not a thermistor or thyristor,
whatever it really is. It may be a thermal fuse if it is on the power in
side and if the power stops there, bingo!

I've helped a lot of people fix things I knew little about. And I've
found that all the previous suggestions about what to replace were
almost always invariably wrong. You may very well have an open switch or
an open thermal cutout, but you need to know first. Don't just throw
money at it.

Tracing back power is the way to start. Listen to RBM.
Troubleshooting is not guesswork.

Jeff

On Aug 15, 10:44*am, bobmct wrote:
Just FYI - following some links I did locate a discussion about
locating the thyristor/thermistor (whatever) located near the control
board mounted in the uppor door. *I did remove the item (described as
the silver thing mounted on the white plastic mount with the two
connector tabs on it). *I don't see any evidence of overheating,
smell, etc. *Using a VM meter this shows an open circuit. *Is this
correct? *Shouldn't it be normally closed? *Any other way to test
this? *Or is this the suspect failure?

Just very eager to know!!! * Thanks

Put a jumper around the device and see if that solves your problem,
they are normally closed contacts, and open if too much current flows
thru them, they don't necessarily discolor. They can also open up due
to old age, and at 10 years that is probably what happened. So jumper
around it, after turning power off, and then turn power back on and
enjoy your dishwahsher again. Then go to Sears and buy a replacement
sensor.

On 8/15/2010 10:57 AM, RBM wrote:
wrote in message
...
Just FYI - following some links I did locate a discussion about
locating the thyristor/thermistor (whatever) located near the control
board mounted in the uppor door. I did remove the item (described as
the silver thing mounted on the white plastic mount with the two
connector tabs on it). I don't see any evidence of overheating,
smell, etc. Using a VM meter this shows an open circuit. Is this
correct? Shouldn't it be normally closed? Any other way to test
this? Or is this the suspect failure?

Just very eager to know!!! Thanks


Missed round two and went directly to round tow. Did you test voltage at the
DW junction box connecting your tester to line and neutral?, or from line to
ground? It's important to be sure you have both a hot leg and a neutral, as
either can be open. Once this is determined, go to step 2 and determine what
safety interlocks, such as a door switch, may be open, preventing power from
getting to the control board



I liked the part about testing with a VM meter. The (whatever) could be
a fuse as someone has probably pointed out. 8-)

TDD

In article
,
"hr(bob) " wrote:

On Aug 15, 10:44*am, bobmct wrote:
Just FYI - following some links I did locate a discussion about
locating the thyristor/thermistor (whatever) located near the control
board mounted in the uppor door. *I did remove the item (described as
the silver thing mounted on the white plastic mount with the two
connector tabs on it). *I don't see any evidence of overheating,
smell, etc. *Using a VM meter this shows an open circuit. *Is this
correct? *Shouldn't it be normally closed? *Any other way to test
this? *Or is this the suspect failure?

Just very eager to know!!! * Thanks

Put a jumper around the device and see if that solves your problem,
they are normally closed contacts, and open if too much current flows
thru them, they don't necessarily discolor. They can also open up due
to old age, and at 10 years that is probably what happened. So jumper
around it, after turning power off, and then turn power back on and
enjoy your dishwahsher again. Then go to Sears and buy a replacement
sensor.

I think it's safe to assume that you don't know what the part is,
because the OP doesn't know what it is. So, you're advocating jumpering
a random unknown part as a test? Is that how you normally repair your
electric appliances?

On Aug 15, 9:35*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*"hr(bob) " wrote:





On Aug 15, 10:44*am, bobmct wrote:
Just FYI - following some links I did locate a discussion about
locating the thyristor/thermistor (whatever) located near the control
board mounted in the uppor door. *I did remove the item (described as
the silver thing mounted on the white plastic mount with the two
connector tabs on it). *I don't see any evidence of overheating,
smell, etc. *Using a VM meter this shows an open circuit. *Is this
correct? *Shouldn't it be normally closed? *Any other way to test
this? *Or is this the suspect failure?

Just very eager to know!!! * Thanks

Put a jumper around the device and see if that solves your problem,
they are normally closed contacts, and open if too much current flows
thru them, they don't necessarily discolor. *They can also open up due
to old age, and at 10 years that is probably what happened. *So jumper
around it, after turning power off, and then turn power back on and
enjoy your dishwahsher again. *Then go to Sears and buy a replacement
sensor.

I think it's safe to assume that you don't know what the part is,
because the OP doesn't know what it is. So, you're advocating jumpering
a random unknown part as a test? Is that how you normally repair your
electric appliances?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The OP did describe the part in a later posting!!!!

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 14:35:42 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

Thanks to all that responded. Some of them provided links to various
forums where this issue was discussed in detail.

This morning I picked up a replacement harness containing a new
thermal fuse and voila! It now works.

Thanks again - happy camper...