Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#41
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 13, 8:49*am, Sum Guy wrote:
RicodJour wrote: There are carpet rating systems, but even they can be misleading. These three should bring you up to speed. http://www.carpetguru.com/shop200.htm# The advice that page seems to be highlighting is: "If you don't know Carpet, know your Carpet dealer" I'm sorry, but that's really useless advice. *What am I supposed to do, invite the carpet dealer to dinner, start playing golf with him, make him my new best friend? I came to that page to "know carpet". *If it's not going to tell me anything really useful about carpet, then WTF? There's a lot of info in there, but his site navigation is the pits. The stuff is hidden in drop down menus. Did you read the section on carpet scams? R |
#42
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 12, 2:09*pm, "George" wrote:
I'm going to risk catching Hell and attach an article I wrote years ago concerning carpet and carpet sales practices. *It was from a different time in a different region of the country, but is still quite timely and valid.. Any comment or suggestions on how it can be improved would also be appreciated. Wow, that was the most amazing gracious act I've ever seen on this or any NG! You sure as hell know your "carpet and carpet sales practices!" Now if we had somebody like you for every aspect of house building and repairing, we'd all be home free! Thanks, pal! HB [... article...] |
#43
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 12, 2:09*pm, "George" wrote:
I'm going to risk catching Hell and attach an article I wrote years ago concerning carpet and carpet sales practices. *It was from a different time in a different region of the country, but is still quite timely and valid.. Any comment or suggestions on how it can be improved would also be appreciated. Dunno if my comment made it, so re-posting. That was the most amazing gracious act I've every seen on this or any NG! You sure as hell know your "carpet and carpet sales practices!. Now if we had somebody like you for every aspect of house building and repair, we'd all be home free. Thanks, pal! HB [....article...] |
#44
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 15, 1:14*am, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Aug 12, 2:09*pm, "George" wrote: I'm going to risk catching Hell and attach an article I wrote years ago concerning carpet and carpet sales practices. *It was from a different time in a different region of the country, but is still quite timely and valid. Any comment or suggestions on how it can be improved would also be appreciated. Dunno if my comment made it, so re-posting. That was the most amazing gracious act I've every seen on this or any NG! *You sure as hell know your "carpet and carpet sales practices!. Now if we had somebody like you for every aspect of house building and repair, we'd all be home free. *Thanks, pal! HB [....article...] It did, but I'm sure he liked hearing it again! R |
#45
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 12, 8:26*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 08/12/2010 11:14 PM, aemeijers wrote: Evan wrote: On Aug 12, 6:36 pm, aemeijers wrote: George wrote: I'm going to risk catching Hell and attach an article I wrote years ago concerning carpet and carpet sales practices. It was from a different time in a different region of the country, but is still quite timely and valid. Any comment or suggestions on how it can be improved would also be appreciated. Nonny Primer for Buying Carpet (Long educational tale snipped) Thank you- that was very enlightening. Bottom line is, it reinforces my distaste for WW carpet even more. Gimme hardwood with the occasional area rug small enough to wash in the big-boy washer at the laundromat.. -- aem sends... You shouldn't wash a real area rug in a washing machine, all that tumbling around will place many years of wear on a real carpet... When carpets are washed by someone who knows what they are doing they are unrolled flat onto a conveyor belt and run through a machine with sprayer heads which spray cleaning solution/rinse water onto the carpet as it passes underneath on the conveyor... It is then blown with warm air to remove excess water and hung to dry on a racking system in a humidity controlled warmed space... ~~ Evan I'm not talking hand-dyed and hand-tied Persian rugs here. Yeah, I've seen on TOH and other shows how those have to be cleaned. Fortunately, the cost of those is well higher on the food chain than I will ever be. I was speaking of the basically disposable rugs like you get at BigLots or Kmart, to put near weather doors, beside the bed, at the bottom of the stairs so your feet can 'see' the bottom when your arms are full, that sort of thing. Rugs where if they last five years, they don't owe you anything. I managed to get a really nice Chinese-made "Persian" rug off Craigslist for something like $900 for my living room. *I defy anyone to tell the difference between it and the real deal. The way you tell is to turn it over and count the density of the stitches on the back. *Sometimes you get lucky. *Love walking on it in bare feet, too. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#46
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 13, 8:32*am, Cindy Hamilton
wrote: On Aug 12, 7:15*pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote: In article , wrote: The price of carpet seems to be related more to the store image than the quality of the carpet. Yup. One guy emphasized the stain repellent. It helps. But it's not magic. Other guy emphasized the importance of high density pad. Good pad matters. One emphasized the tightness of the weave on the backside. Look at the overall density of the carpet; back and pile. Just need to figure out how to read thru the salesspeak and get the most bang for the buck. Consider installing it yourself. It's not nearly as hard as it's made out to be, especially if you can avoid seams. Renting or buying a kicker is essential. Plus an iron if you'll need to seam. I've always been able to get away without a stretcher in normal residential sized rooms. Shears are nice but you can do it all with a utility knife and *lot* of blades. Best tip I picked up while working as a professional carpet fitter... Never use regular carpet in bathrooms/toilets. Carpet hates water. If you (or SWMBO) demands the warmth and softness of carpet, look for waterproof (wet area rated) carpet tiles. They work quite well. Tile and stone can hold up better but they are cold, potentially slippery, and hard (if any members of the household are susceptible to a fall). But regular carpet is a big no-no. The stuff I've had to remove from old bathrooms was absolutely disgusting! I simply bought two big rubber-backed bath rugs at Bedbugs Beyond. *Once a week I throw them in the washer and dryer. *(Actually, I have two sets, so each set is washed every other week.) Doesn't the rubber backing wear off in time with multiple washings? Mine always do. Of course, it helps that the bathroom is only 5' by 10'. The vanity, tub, and toilet take up most of the floor, so those two rugs cover almost all of what's left. One of the advantages of owning a modest post-war ranch: *less to clean. Cindy Hamilton |
#47
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
... On Aug 13, 8:32 am, Cindy Hamilton wrote: On Aug 12, 7:15 pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote: In article , wrote: The price of carpet seems to be related more to the store image than the quality of the carpet. Yup. One guy emphasized the stain repellent. It helps. But it's not magic. Other guy emphasized the importance of high density pad. Good pad matters. One emphasized the tightness of the weave on the backside. Look at the overall density of the carpet; back and pile. Just need to figure out how to read thru the salesspeak and get the most bang for the buck. Consider installing it yourself. It's not nearly as hard as it's made out to be, especially if you can avoid seams. Renting or buying a kicker is essential. Plus an iron if you'll need to seam. I've always been able to get away without a stretcher in normal residential sized rooms. Shears are nice but you can do it all with a utility knife and *lot* of blades. Best tip I picked up while working as a professional carpet fitter... Never use regular carpet in bathrooms/toilets. Carpet hates water. If you (or SWMBO) demands the warmth and softness of carpet, look for waterproof (wet area rated) carpet tiles. They work quite well. Tile and stone can hold up better but they are cold, potentially slippery, and hard (if any members of the household are susceptible to a fall). But regular carpet is a big no-no. The stuff I've had to remove from old bathrooms was absolutely disgusting! I simply bought two big rubber-backed bath rugs at Bedbugs Beyond. Once a week I throw them in the washer and dryer. (Actually, I have two sets, so each set is washed every other week.) Doesn't the rubber backing wear off in time with multiple washings? Mine always do. =========== I believe the dryer is the culprit there, not the washing. Cheri |
#48
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
Cheri wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... On Aug 13, 8:32 am, Cindy Hamilton wrote: On Aug 12, 7:15 pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote: In article , wrote: The price of carpet seems to be related more to the store image than the quality of the carpet. Yup. One guy emphasized the stain repellent. It helps. But it's not magic. Other guy emphasized the importance of high density pad. Good pad matters. One emphasized the tightness of the weave on the backside. Look at the overall density of the carpet; back and pile. Just need to figure out how to read thru the salesspeak and get the most bang for the buck. Consider installing it yourself. It's not nearly as hard as it's made out to be, especially if you can avoid seams. Renting or buying a kicker is essential. Plus an iron if you'll need to seam. I've always been able to get away without a stretcher in normal residential sized rooms. Shears are nice but you can do it all with a utility knife and *lot* of blades. Best tip I picked up while working as a professional carpet fitter... Never use regular carpet in bathrooms/toilets. Carpet hates water. If you (or SWMBO) demands the warmth and softness of carpet, look for waterproof (wet area rated) carpet tiles. They work quite well. Tile and stone can hold up better but they are cold, potentially slippery, and hard (if any members of the household are susceptible to a fall). But regular carpet is a big no-no. The stuff I've had to remove from old bathrooms was absolutely disgusting! I simply bought two big rubber-backed bath rugs at Bedbugs Beyond. Once a week I throw them in the washer and dryer. (Actually, I have two sets, so each set is washed every other week.) Doesn't the rubber backing wear off in time with multiple washings? Mine always do. =========== I believe the dryer is the culprit there, not the washing. Cheri Other downside is, with cheap rugs and cheap vinyl, it is a lifetime commitment, since those rubber backs are notorious for staining the vinyl. -- aem sends... |
#49
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On 08/17/2010 04:31 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Aug 12, 8:26 pm, Nate wrote: On 08/12/2010 11:14 PM, aemeijers wrote: Evan wrote: On Aug 12, 6:36 pm, wrote: George wrote: I'm going to risk catching Hell and attach an article I wrote years ago concerning carpet and carpet sales practices. It was from a different time in a different region of the country, but is still quite timely and valid. Any comment or suggestions on how it can be improved would also be appreciated. Nonny Primer for Buying Carpet (Long educational tale snipped) Thank you- that was very enlightening. Bottom line is, it reinforces my distaste for WW carpet even more. Gimme hardwood with the occasional area rug small enough to wash in the big-boy washer at the laundromat. -- aem sends... You shouldn't wash a real area rug in a washing machine, all that tumbling around will place many years of wear on a real carpet... When carpets are washed by someone who knows what they are doing they are unrolled flat onto a conveyor belt and run through a machine with sprayer heads which spray cleaning solution/rinse water onto the carpet as it passes underneath on the conveyor... It is then blown with warm air to remove excess water and hung to dry on a racking system in a humidity controlled warmed space... ~~ Evan I'm not talking hand-dyed and hand-tied Persian rugs here. Yeah, I've seen on TOH and other shows how those have to be cleaned. Fortunately, the cost of those is well higher on the food chain than I will ever be. I was speaking of the basically disposable rugs like you get at BigLots or Kmart, to put near weather doors, beside the bed, at the bottom of the stairs so your feet can 'see' the bottom when your arms are full, that sort of thing. Rugs where if they last five years, they don't owe you anything. I managed to get a really nice Chinese-made "Persian" rug off Craigslist for something like $900 for my living room. I defy anyone to tell the difference between it and the real deal. The way you tell is to turn it over and count the density of the stitches on the back. Like I said, I defy you to tell the difference. This one is dense; as much as if not more so than the "real" one in the guest bedroom. I've seen some rugs of *lesser* quality from the middle east. If you know what you're looking for, you can still get good deals, especially 2nd-hand. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#50
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On 2010-08-12, mike wrote:
One guy emphasized the stain repellent. Other guy emphasized the importance of high density pad. One emphasized the tightness of the weave on the backside. I used to think stain repellency was a good indicator. My brother had an off white carpet and I spilled red wine on it. I got the wine out with nothing but water. I had a new carpet intalled in a rental I lived in for about 6 yrs. The short nap changed to an unidentifiable fuzz in high traffic areas within 2-3 yrs and no doubt needed replacement after I moved. Quotes ranged from $3k to $7K installed for about 100 square yards Yikes! Carpets are one of the biggest rip-offs in home industry. After I helped my buddy/landlord install the carpet I mention above, I swore I'd never pay for carpet installation again. Building new steps (5!) for my deck was harder. nb |
#51
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 17, 4:32*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Aug 13, 8:32*am, Cindy Hamilton wrote: On Aug 12, 7:15*pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote: In article , wrote: The price of carpet seems to be related more to the store image than the quality of the carpet. Yup. One guy emphasized the stain repellent. It helps. But it's not magic. Other guy emphasized the importance of high density pad. Good pad matters. One emphasized the tightness of the weave on the backside. Look at the overall density of the carpet; back and pile. Just need to figure out how to read thru the salesspeak and get the most bang for the buck. Consider installing it yourself. It's not nearly as hard as it's made out to be, especially if you can avoid seams. Renting or buying a kicker is essential. Plus an iron if you'll need to seam. I've always been able to get away without a stretcher in normal residential sized rooms. Shears are nice but you can do it all with a utility knife and *lot* of blades. Best tip I picked up while working as a professional carpet fitter... Never use regular carpet in bathrooms/toilets. Carpet hates water. If you (or SWMBO) demands the warmth and softness of carpet, look for waterproof (wet area rated) carpet tiles. They work quite well. Tile and stone can hold up better but they are cold, potentially slippery, and hard (if any members of the household are susceptible to a fall). But regular carpet is a big no-no. The stuff I've had to remove from old bathrooms was absolutely disgusting! I simply bought two big rubber-backed bath rugs at Bedbugs Beyond. *Once a week I throw them in the washer and dryer. *(Actually, I have two sets, so each set is washed every other week.) Doesn't the rubber backing wear off in time with multiple washings? Mine always do. Yes. Nothing lasts forever. I wash mine in cold water and dry them on low. This gives an acceptable lifetime for the rubber backing. I suppose I could hang them dry, but I can't be bothered. Cindy Hamilton |
#52
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 17, 7:54*pm, aemeijers wrote:
Cheri wrote: "Higgs Boson" wrote in message .... On Aug 13, 8:32 am, Cindy Hamilton wrote: On Aug 12, 7:15 pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote: In article , wrote: The price of carpet seems to be related more to the store image than the quality of the carpet. Yup. One guy emphasized the stain repellent. It helps. But it's not magic. Other guy emphasized the importance of high density pad. Good pad matters. One emphasized the tightness of the weave on the backside. Look at the overall density of the carpet; back and pile. Just need to figure out how to read thru the salesspeak and get the most bang for the buck. Consider installing it yourself. It's not nearly as hard as it's made out to be, especially if you can avoid seams. Renting or buying a kicker is essential. Plus an iron if you'll need to seam. I've always been able to get away without a stretcher in normal residential sized rooms. Shears are nice but you can do it all with a utility knife and *lot* of blades. Best tip I picked up while working as a professional carpet fitter... Never use regular carpet in bathrooms/toilets. Carpet hates water. If you (or SWMBO) demands the warmth and softness of carpet, look for waterproof (wet area rated) carpet tiles. They work quite well. Tile and stone can hold up better but they are cold, potentially slippery, and hard (if any members of the household are susceptible to a fall). But regular carpet is a big no-no. The stuff I've had to remove from old bathrooms was absolutely disgusting! I simply bought two big rubber-backed bath rugs at Bedbugs Beyond. Once a week I throw them in the washer and dryer. (Actually, I have two sets, so each set is washed every other week.) Doesn't the rubber backing wear off in time with multiple washings? Mine always do. =========== I believe the dryer is the culprit there, not the washing. Cheri Other downside is, with cheap rugs and cheap vinyl, it is a lifetime commitment, since those rubber backs are notorious for staining the vinyl.. Of course, if you have cheap rugs and ceramic tile (as I do), it's not a problem. If I had vinyl, I probably wouldn't need the rugs. That damned ceramic tile is COLD. Cindy Hamilton |
#53
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 12, 7:28*pm, Evan wrote:
On Aug 12, 6:36*pm, aemeijers wrote: George wrote: I'm going to risk catching Hell and attach an article I wrote years ago concerning carpet and carpet sales practices. *It was from a different time in a different region of the country, but is still quite timely and valid. Any comment or suggestions on how it can be improved would also be appreciated. Nonny Primer for Buying Carpet (Long educational tale snipped) Thank you- that was very enlightening. Bottom line is, it reinforces my distaste for WW carpet even more. Gimme hardwood with the occasional area rug small enough to wash in the big-boy washer at the laundromat. -- aem sends... You shouldn't wash a real area rug in a washing machine, all that tumbling around will place many years of wear on a real carpet... When carpets are washed by someone who knows what they are doing they are unrolled flat onto a conveyor belt and run through a machine with sprayer heads which spray cleaning solution/rinse water onto the carpet as it passes underneath on the conveyor... *It is then blown with warm air to remove excess water and hung to dry on a racking system in a humidity controlled warmed space... ~~ Evan I have two small Oriental rungs -- the real thing-. Once in a long while, I take them outside, hose them off, use a little cool water soap, rinse VERY well, allow to dry in the sun. Wouldn't work with my room-size Kashmiri carpet, so I just vacuum and hope for the best. Doesn't get heavy wear, so let us pray. |
#54
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
How do you tell good carpet from bad carpet?
On Aug 17, 1:37*pm, "Cheri" wrote:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message ... On Aug 13, 8:32 am, Cindy Hamilton wrote: On Aug 12, 7:15 pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote: In article , wrote: The price of carpet seems to be related more to the store image than the quality of the carpet. Yup. One guy emphasized the stain repellent. It helps. But it's not magic. Other guy emphasized the importance of high density pad. Good pad matters. One emphasized the tightness of the weave on the backside. Look at the overall density of the carpet; back and pile. Just need to figure out how to read thru the salesspeak and get the most bang for the buck. Consider installing it yourself. It's not nearly as hard as it's made out to be, especially if you can avoid seams. Renting or buying a kicker is essential. Plus an iron if you'll need to seam. I've always been able to get away without a stretcher in normal residential sized rooms. Shears are nice but you can do it all with a utility knife and *lot* of blades. Best tip I picked up while working as a professional carpet fitter... Never use regular carpet in bathrooms/toilets. Carpet hates water. If you (or SWMBO) demands the warmth and softness of carpet, look for waterproof (wet area rated) carpet tiles. They work quite well. Tile and stone can hold up better but they are cold, potentially slippery, and hard (if any members of the household are susceptible to a fall). But regular carpet is a big no-no. The stuff I've had to remove from old bathrooms was absolutely disgusting! I simply bought two big rubber-backed bath rugs at Bedbugs Beyond. Once a week I throw them in the washer and dryer. (Actually, I have two sets, so each set is washed every other week.) Doesn't the rubber backing wear off in time with multiple washings? Mine always do. =========== I believe the dryer is the culprit there, not the washing. Cheri I have never had a dryer; always used that Big Dryer in the Sky. However, I was idiot enough to wash one rubber-backed rug on ***hot water setting***. QED. |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Joining hessian backed carpet over underlay without a carpet iron - how best to do??? | UK diy | |||
Joining carpet 2 carpet & carpet 2 tiles | UK diy |