For some reason, the builder put in the toilet flanges in my 5 bathrooms so
that the top of the flange sticks up 3/4" above the tile floor. The toilets
he put in apparently had a deeper inset and did not rock. As I am replacing
the toilets, I find that new toilets have only a 1/2" recess around the
outlet. This makes the new toilet sit 1/4" above the tile floor. (3/4"
protruding height less 1/2 " recess). A also need about 1/4' for the
compressed wax ring, leaving me 1/2 " from proper seating of the toilet.

The sewer outlet pipe is 4" ABS, coming up through the concrete slab. The
ABS flange is glued to the *outside* of this pipe. The flange is not screwed
down, just sitting there.

I propose to cut off the flange/pipe level with the tile floor, using an
angle-grinder. I will then glue an *inside* flange into the 4" pipe. The new
ABS flange is 3/8" thick and will sit directly on the tile floor. I should
gain 3/8" using this approach, which should be enough to seat the toilet
properly.

Does this make sense?

Walter
www.rationality.net

Hope this image of the flange will work:

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/5062/1000487z.jpg

Walter
www.rationality.net

"Walter E." wrote in message
...
For some reason, the builder put in the toilet flanges in my 5 bathrooms
so that the top of the flange sticks up 3/4" above the tile floor. The
toilets he put in apparently had a deeper inset and did not rock. As I am
replacing the toilets, I find that new toilets have only a 1/2" recess
around the outlet. This makes the new toilet sit 1/4" above the tile
floor. (3/4" protruding height less 1/2 " recess). A also need about 1/4'
for the compressed wax ring, leaving me 1/2 " from proper seating of the
toilet.

The sewer outlet pipe is 4" ABS, coming up through the concrete slab. The
ABS flange is glued to the *outside* of this pipe. The flange is not
screwed down, just sitting there.

I propose to cut off the flange/pipe level with the tile floor, using an
angle-grinder. I will then glue an *inside* flange into the 4" pipe. The
new ABS flange is 3/8" thick and will sit directly on the tile floor. I
should gain 3/8" using this approach, which should be enough to seat the
toilet properly.

Does this make sense?

Walter
www.rationality.net

On Jul 17, 11:22*am, "Walter E." wrote:
Hope this image of the flange will work:

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/5062/1000487z.jpg

Walterwww.rationality.net

"Walter E." wrote in message

...



For some reason, the builder put in the toilet flanges in my 5 bathrooms
so that the top of the flange sticks up 3/4" above the tile floor. The
toilets he put in apparently had a deeper inset and did not rock. As I am
replacing the toilets, I find that new toilets have only a *1/2" recess
around the outlet. This makes the new toilet sit 1/4" above the tile
floor. *(3/4" protruding height less 1/2 " recess). A also need about 1/4'
for the compressed wax ring, leaving me 1/2 " from proper seating of the
toilet.

The sewer outlet pipe is 4" ABS, coming up through the concrete slab. The
ABS flange is glued to the *outside* of this pipe. The flange is not
screwed down, just sitting there.

I propose to cut off the flange/pipe level with the tile floor, using an
angle-grinder. I will then glue an *inside* flange into the 4" pipe. The
new ABS flange is 3/8" thick and will sit directly on the tile floor. I
should gain 3/8" using this approach, which should be enough to seat the
toilet properly.

Does this make sense?

Walter
www.rationality.net- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You're the second poster with this problem in the past couple of
weeks. Your idea sounds fine as long as you get a good seal to the
new flange.

"Walter E." wrote in message
...
For some reason, the builder put in the toilet flanges in my 5 bathrooms
so that the top of the flange sticks up 3/4" above the tile floor. The
toilets he put in apparently had a deeper inset and did not rock. As I am
replacing the toilets, I find that new toilets have only a 1/2" recess
around the outlet. This makes the new toilet sit 1/4" above the tile
floor. (3/4" protruding height less 1/2 " recess). A also need about 1/4'
for the compressed wax ring, leaving me 1/2 " from proper seating of the
toilet.

The sewer outlet pipe is 4" ABS, coming up through the concrete slab. The
ABS flange is glued to the *outside* of this pipe. The flange is not
screwed down, just sitting there.

I propose to cut off the flange/pipe level with the tile floor, using an
angle-grinder. I will then glue an *inside* flange into the 4" pipe. The
new ABS flange is 3/8" thick and will sit directly on the tile floor. I
should gain 3/8" using this approach, which should be enough to seat the
toilet properly.

Does this make sense?

Walter
www.rationality.net

Walter... If want a good and neat and easy job cutting get the multi purpose
tool from Harbor Freight. My son bought one to cut flush a plastic pipe on
camp trailer dump tank. No other way to get to it. Works great so I bought
one also and found how good it works on flush cuts that would be difficult
any other way. WW

"WW" wrote in
:


"Walter E." wrote in message
...
For some reason, the builder put in the toilet flanges in my 5
bathrooms so that the top of the flange sticks up 3/4" above the tile
floor. The toilets he put in apparently had a deeper inset and did
not rock. As I am replacing the toilets, I find that new toilets have
only a 1/2" recess around the outlet. This makes the new toilet sit
1/4" above the tile floor. (3/4" protruding height less 1/2 "
recess). A also need about 1/4' for the compressed wax ring, leaving
me 1/2 " from proper seating of the toilet.

The sewer outlet pipe is 4" ABS, coming up through the concrete slab.
The ABS flange is glued to the *outside* of this pipe. The flange is
not screwed down, just sitting there.

I propose to cut off the flange/pipe level with the tile floor, using
an angle-grinder. I will then glue an *inside* flange into the 4"
pipe. The new ABS flange is 3/8" thick and will sit directly on the
tile floor. I should gain 3/8" using this approach, which should be
enough to seat the toilet properly.

Does this make sense?

Walter
www.rationality.net

Walter... If want a good and neat and easy job cutting get the multi
purpose tool from Harbor Freight. My son bought one to cut flush a
plastic pipe on camp trailer dump tank. No other way to get to it.
Works great so I bought one also and found how good it works on flush
cuts that would be difficult any other way. WW




No other way to get to it.

Not sure about that. See link to cable saw below. Borg has them as well.

http://www.generaltools.com/Products...-Saw__858.aspx

I swear by my HF tool as well. May even work better than a cable saw in
this case since the user might tend to hold the ends off the floor making
it difficult cutting through the entire flange. Be aware the high
oscillations of the saw will melt the plastic. If you stop where the
blade is still within PVC you could weld the blade in the plastic. Even
the link to the cable saw warns about it.

"WW" wrote in
:


"Walter E." wrote in message
...
For some reason, the builder put in the toilet flanges in my 5
bathrooms so that the top of the flange sticks up 3/4" above the tile
floor. The toilets he put in apparently had a deeper inset and did
not rock. As I am replacing the toilets, I find that new toilets have
only a 1/2" recess around the outlet. This makes the new toilet sit
1/4" above the tile floor. (3/4" protruding height less 1/2 "
recess). A also need about 1/4' for the compressed wax ring, leaving
me 1/2 " from proper seating of the toilet.

The sewer outlet pipe is 4" ABS, coming up through the concrete slab.
The ABS flange is glued to the *outside* of this pipe. The flange is
not screwed down, just sitting there.

I propose to cut off the flange/pipe level with the tile floor, using
an angle-grinder. I will then glue an *inside* flange into the 4"
pipe. The new ABS flange is 3/8" thick and will sit directly on the
tile floor. I should gain 3/8" using this approach, which should be
enough to seat the toilet properly.

Does this make sense?

Walter
www.rationality.net

Walter... If want a good and neat and easy job cutting get the multi
purpose tool from Harbor Freight. My son bought one to cut flush a
plastic pipe on camp trailer dump tank. No other way to get to it.
Works great so I bought one also and found how good it works on flush
cuts that would be difficult any other way. WW




No other way to get to it.

Not sure about that. See link to cable saw below. Borg has them as well.

http://www.generaltools.com/Products...-Saw__858.aspx

I swear by my HF tool as well. May even work better than a cable saw in
this case since the user might tend to hold the ends off the floor making
it difficult cutting through the entire flange. Be aware the high
oscillations of the saw will melt the plastic. If you stop where the
blade is still within PVC you could weld the blade in the plastic. Even
the link to the cable saw warns about it.

"Red Green" wrote in message
...
"WW" wrote in
:

snip...

Heard ya the first time Red. :-)