I have two questions about pools.

1. About six to ten inches of mortar are missing from the top corner of an
edge of the tiles at the top of the pool. These tiles get wet but this
particular edge is about two inches above the water line.

What grout (mortar?) is used for edges where horizontal tiles meet vertical
tiles near water?

2. I have green spots that seem to be spreading on the walls of the gunnite
pool, in the deeper areas. The water chemistry, as checked by Leslie's Pool
Supply, seems ok (they said the chlorine is perfect, the pH is perfect, the
Calcium is fine, the total dissolved solids are very low, and the
Phosphates are a tad on the high side.

I assume it's algae (but how would I know)? I shock with three pounds of
chlorine (35,000 gallon pool) about once every two or three weeks.

I've been scrubbing the green growth off but is there an easier way to
identify and then remove whatever it is that is causing green growth in
tiny spots (about the size of a pencil width) on the gunnite walls?

"Elmo" wrote in message
...
I have two questions about pools.

1. About six to ten inches of mortar are missing from the top corner of an
edge of the tiles at the top of the pool. These tiles get wet but this
particular edge is about two inches above the water line.

What grout (mortar?) is used for edges where horizontal tiles meet
vertical
tiles near water?

2. I have green spots that seem to be spreading on the walls of the
gunnite
pool, in the deeper areas. The water chemistry, as checked by Leslie's
Pool
Supply, seems ok (they said the chlorine is perfect, the pH is perfect,
the
Calcium is fine, the total dissolved solids are very low, and the
Phosphates are a tad on the high side.

I assume it's algae (but how would I know)? I shock with three pounds of
chlorine (35,000 gallon pool) about once every two or three weeks.

I've been scrubbing the green growth off but is there an easier way to
identify and then remove whatever it is that is causing green growth in
tiny spots (about the size of a pencil width) on the gunnite walls?

I fought those, then bought this thing that looks like one of those pencil
erasers you would slide over your regular pencil eraser. You put it on the
end of a pole, or you swim down and rub the spots. It worked pretty good.
It's sacrificial, it is like rubbery, and it rubs off the eraser before it
eats off the concrete. Algae is easier to prevent than cure. At times, I
have taken the power washer hose in there BUT YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL AND NOT
BLOW THE CONCRETE AWAY.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Jul 16, 7:26*pm, Elmo dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
I have two questions about pools.

1. About six to ten inches of mortar are missing from the top corner of an
edge of the tiles at the top of the pool. These tiles get wet but this
particular edge is about two inches above the water line.

What grout (mortar?) is used for edges where horizontal tiles meet vertical
tiles near water?

2. I have green spots that seem to be spreading on the walls of the gunnite
pool, in the deeper areas. The water chemistry, as checked by Leslie's Pool
Supply, seems ok (they said the chlorine is perfect, the pH is perfect, the
Calcium is fine, the total dissolved solids are very low, and the
Phosphates are a tad on the high side.

I assume it's algae (but how would I know)? I shock with three pounds of
chlorine (35,000 gallon pool) about once every two or three weeks.

I've been scrubbing the green growth off but is there an easier way to
identify and then remove whatever it is that is causing green growth in
tiny spots (about the size of a pencil width) on the gunnite walls?

Stuff that grows in pools (& other places, like cooling systems)
create what's called biofilm to protect the colony from adverse
effects of the environment.

Brush at reasonable intervals (not every day but more than a couple
times per week) tol damage the biolflim so that the chlorine can get
at the algae.
Consider a pool sweep style machine with whip hoses that have plastic
or ceramic wear points.

Also consider the use of a specific algaeicide for green algae.

cheers
Bob

On Jul 16, 9:26*pm, Elmo dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
I have two questions about pools.

1. About six to ten inches of mortar are missing from the top corner of an
edge of the tiles at the top of the pool. These tiles get wet but this
particular edge is about two inches above the water line.

What grout (mortar?) is used for edges where horizontal tiles meet vertical
tiles near water?

2. I have green spots that seem to be spreading on the walls of the gunnite
pool, in the deeper areas. The water chemistry, as checked by Leslie's Pool
Supply, seems ok (they said the chlorine is perfect, the pH is perfect, the
Calcium is fine, the total dissolved solids are very low, and the
Phosphates are a tad on the high side.

I assume it's algae (but how would I know)? I shock with three pounds of
chlorine (35,000 gallon pool) about once every two or three weeks.

I've been scrubbing the green growth off but is there an easier way to
identify and then remove whatever it is that is causing green growth in
tiny spots (about the size of a pencil width) on the gunnite walls?

I dont have pool experiance but for concrete and painting mold must be
completely killed and removed or it will ruin and bond of new mortar,
anything not killed will return and ruin mortars bond. Chlorine should
kill it quickly then powerwashing should get rid of the plant. Do you
pay someone to test the pool, It should not be hard or expensive to do
it yourself.

On Jul 16, 10:26*pm, Elmo dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:

What grout (mortar?) is used for edges where horizontal tiles meet vertical
tiles near water?

For something that small I'd use a marine sealant (caulk). Back in
the olden days we just used a sanded grout, but today there are expoxy
grouts that are probably better.


2. I have green spots that seem to be spreading on the walls of the gunnite
pool, in the deeper areas.
Phosphates are a tad on the high side.

There's your problem. Phosphates are algae food. You need a
phosphate eliminator like Phosfree. Comes with phosphate test kit.

I shock with three pounds of
chlorine (35,000 gallon pool) about once every two or three weeks.

I shock my 20K gallon pool every week (2#), but our dog spends more
time in the pool than anyone.

I've been scrubbing the green growth off but is there an easier way to
identify and then remove whatever it is that is causing green growth in
tiny spots (about the size of a pencil width) on the gunnite walls?

Automatic pool cleaner, but I'd recommend not a Kreepy Krawly.

I'm no pool expert but I think you probably ought to learn to do your
water chemistry yourself. Only takes a few minutes a day.
-----

- gpsman

On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 07:10:23 -0400, dadiOH wrote:
How thick?

The thickness is about 3/8ths of an inch between the horizontal and
vertical tiles.

I have a huge bag of "thinset" (because it's the smallest they had to
repair just one tile on the BBQ) ... but I wasn't sure if pools (since
they're always wet) took a different mortar/grout???

On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 04:26:31 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote:

Do you pay someone to test the pool

I test it myself every few days and once a month I bring a sample to the
pool store for detailed analysis. The phosphates are a tad high but the
chlorine is dead on correct (at 4ppm).

I have a power washer (which wasn't meant for underwater use) which I might
try. Plus I might have to buy the very expensive algaeside and/or phosphate
reducers.

I wonder which is better in the long run:
- Killing the algae (it will come back) ...
- Removing the phosphate (it will come back too) ...

Any experience to share?

"Elmo" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 04:26:31 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote:

Do you pay someone to test the pool

I test it myself every few days and once a month I bring a sample to the
pool store for detailed analysis. The phosphates are a tad high but the
chlorine is dead on correct (at 4ppm).

I have a power washer (which wasn't meant for underwater use) which I
might
try. Plus I might have to buy the very expensive algaeside and/or
phosphate
reducers.

I wonder which is better in the long run:
- Killing the algae (it will come back) ...
- Removing the phosphate (it will come back too) ...

Any experience to share?

Yeah....pool supply places like to test your water so they can sell you
stuff. Some of it isn't really needed.

On the algae I've always kept the chlorine in check, shock weekly and scrub,
but there maybe some product that keeps it down effectively. Regular pool
cleaning usuually does the trick. I'm havng trouble with black algae but
that's because my pool is old and pitted. That stuff is a bit@h to get off.

I'd use swimming pool grout for your tiles, but like has already been
mentioned, get all the algae off first. At the close of this season I'm
getting a Dremel to cut all the bad grout out.

On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 16:05:27 +0000 (UTC), Elmo
wrote:

... but I wasn't sure if pools (since
they're always wet) took a different mortar/grout???

HD sells a small container of grout, meant for pools. I think it is
both adhesive and grout. Located in the tile section.

I replaced a few tiles about four years ago and it is still holding
up. The product cures under water.

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:iFm0o.20975$xf1.8567@hurricane...
Elmo wrote:
On Sat, 17 Jul 2010 04:26:31 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote:

Do you pay someone to test the pool

I test it myself every few days and once a month I bring a sample to
the pool store for detailed analysis. The phosphates are a tad high
but the chlorine is dead on correct (at 4ppm).

Algae love phosphates.

--


That's probably what I need to test. Does it apply to black algae too?