I am working on a vinyl tile job.

Using Armstrong 12x12 tiles.

Been using a fine sable saw blade, but I can't get consistent cuts.

The material seems to melt instead of cut and it's somewhat fragile.

Any tips?

Thanks.

On 4/20/2010 8:24 AM, Andy wrote:
I am working on a vinyl tile job.

Using Armstrong 12x12 tiles.

Been using a fine sable saw blade, but I can't get consistent cuts.

The material seems to melt instead of cut and it's somewhat fragile.

Any tips?

Thanks.

I've never worked with vinyl tile cutters but as a retired polymer
chemist know that special tools are usually needed as friction can
generate enough heat to melt plastic making job difficult.

Google up vinyl tile cutters for plenty of answers.

On Apr 20, 8:24*am, Andy wrote:
I am working on a vinyl tile job.

Using Armstrong 12x12 tiles.

Been using a fine sable saw blade, but I can't get consistent cuts.

The material seems to melt instead of cut and it's somewhat fragile.

Any tips?

Thanks.


Umm yeah... Try a utility knife and a package of new sharp blades...

If you are trying to use a power saw to cut these tiles, you are using
the wrong tool... Use a fresh utility knife and a straight edge to
make
straight cuts going free hand to make cuts around tight corners or
curves... Aviation snips can come in handy for some cuts...

If you have a lot of straight cuts to make to install a vinyl tile
floor
you could either buy or rent a vinyl tile shear...

~~ Evan

On Apr 20, 7:24*am, Andy wrote:
I am working on a vinyl tile job.

Using Armstrong 12x12 tiles.

Been using a fine sable saw blade, but I can't get consistent cuts.

The material seems to melt instead of cut and it's somewhat fragile.

Any tips?

Thanks.

I've used a big old paper cutter with some success. Seemed to work
cleanest with the pattern side up. Harbor Freight (natch!) has larger
sizes at reasonable prices. Much faster and safer than messing with
utility knives. Even made a hole punch out of some sharpened EMT
conduit for going around pipes. Takes a couple of blows with the
mallet to neatly slice through most tiles. Old fashioned tin snips do
fairly well if you keep them sharp.

Joe

I've used a big old paper cutter with some success. Seemed to work
cleanest with the pattern side up. Harbor Freight (natch!) has larger
sizes at reasonable prices. Much faster and safer than messing with
utility knives. Even made a hole punch out of some sharpened EMT
conduit for going around pipes. Takes a couple of blows with the
mallet to neatly slice through most tiles. Old fashioned tin snips do
fairly well if you keep them sharp.

I use "new fashion" snips designed for use with Al flashing. They have
long handles, are made from some lightweight metal (Al?) and have steel
inserts on the cutting edges.

I use utility knives for streight cuts. I just score one side and bend the
tile. It ALWAYS breaks right at the score line. You can make a score
line as fast as you can mark the tile.

I can see two problems with a paper cutter: 1) it's BIG; & 2) it doesn't
have the leverage of the snips. But if it works for you ...

On Apr 20, 12:37*pm, "John Gilmer" wrote:

snip

I can see two problems with a paper cutter: *1) *it's BIG; & 2) it doesn't
have the leverage of the snips. * But if it works for you ...

An 18" paper cutter has a 20" handle. Honestly, do your snips have
handles that long? G

Joe

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Apr 20, 12:37 pm, "John Gilmer" wrote:

snip

I can see two problems with a paper cutter: 1) it's BIG; & 2) it doesn't
have the leverage of the snips. But if it works for you ...

"An 18" paper cutter has a 20" handle. Honestly, do your snips have
handles that long? G

No, they don't. They are on the order of 10" long.

But you don't understand the concept of leverage.

It's not just the lenght of your end of the lever but also how far the
"load" is from the pivot point. In a paper cutter it's a minimum of 2 to
3". It's about 12" at the maximum.

With the "snips," it's about 1" minimum and 4" maximum.

YMMV

On Apr 24, 10:05*am, "John Gilmer" wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message

...
On Apr 20, 12:37 pm, "John Gilmer" wrote:

snip
I can see two problems with a paper cutter: 1) it's BIG; & 2) it doesn't
have the leverage of the snips. But if it works for you ...

"An 18" paper cutter has a 20" handle. Honestly, do your snips have
handles that long? *G

No, they don't. * They are on the order of 10" long.

But you don't understand the concept of leverage.

It's not just the lenght of your end of the lever but also how far the
"load" is from the pivot point. * In a paper cutter it's a minimum of 2 to
3". * It's about * 12" at the maximum.

With the "snips," it's about 1" minimum and 4" maximum.

YMMV

Thanks to all for their input.

I ended up using a sheetrock knife with FREQUENT blade changes.

For closets and odd shapes, some wire cutters helped too.

Andy