Robert Green wrote:
I've got the typical minivan keyless entry keychain fob but it's got a
serious design problem.

The buttons depress too easily and often accidentally when the fob is pushed
into a pocket or a purse. It's happened more than once, so it's time to do
something about it.

Some cut.

Check with the whiz kids at alt.engineering.electrical Someone
there might have an idea.

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...

If it was new, I might, but it's 8 years old and I believe that there's a
cheaper, easier, simpler way around the problem, even if it does come down
to putting it in a hard shell case of some sort. There seems to be enough
space to put a micro-pushbutton on the fob. I am just not sure that one
button will serve all 7 fob buttons.

I may also be able to rewire the panic button, which we never use, to
serve
as the second pushbutton. My preliminary scan of the circuit board wasn't
very encouraging, though. There are a lot of tiny traces around the panic
button pad.


Leave the electronics as is, and modify the fob to add some height around
the holes the buttons with some epoxy. That way accidental pressing of the
buttons will be difficult.

This also has the advantage of being cheap, and if the electronics ever go
on the fritz, you can just pop the new guts into the old case and your good
to go.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

I should have said epoxy putty. It comes in a ribbon with two colors and
you slice off a chunk and knead the stuff together untill the color is even.

The method I would suggest is to remove the board and the buttons from the
case and then rough up the front of the case with 100 grit sand paper.

Shape the epoxy putty into little rings and shape those around the holes in
the case that the buttons fit through.

Once the epoxy putty is set, any ooze over can be filed away and the surface
can be sanded smooth.

Paint to match or leave ugly.

Hope that helps.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

Robert Green wrote:
"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
Robert Green wrote:
"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
mike wrote:
Don't put the fob in your pocket or purse until you are out of range.

Cost: $0.00
Still wind up with a dead battery......
May also set off a terrorist bomb.

TDD
Please explain.

--
Bobby G.


If you are out of range and are still keeping the remote buttons
pressed, it will run down the battery in the remote. The terrorist
crack is referring to the fact that you could activate something
unintentionally. The insurgents in Iraq use all sorts of remote
technology to set off IED's. It was levity.

Ask DerbyDad03 - I am humor challenged. He has to explain all his jokes to
me, too.

Oh well.

I get your point, though. It's just not an optimum solution for me.

--
Bobby G.


I've a friend who would often bring me his huge remote key fob
for his Dodge pickup for repair. I would solder the battery
contacts back on to the little circuit board until the board
board started coming apart. He said the darn things were very
expensive.

TDD

Robert Green wrote:
I've got the typical minivan keyless entry keychain fob but it's got a
serious design problem.

The buttons depress too easily and often accidentally when the fob is pushed
into a pocket or a purse. It's happened more than once, so it's time to do
something about it.

The real estate inside the fob is very cramped. It runs off a CR2032 coin
cell battery, and the circuit traces are simple enough so that I could
scrape off the 3VDC+ line and bridge it with a small switch. That way, I
could just put in a tiny pushbutton that had to be depressed as well as the
desired command button each time a command was sent. That approach makes it
a two-handed operation, whereas a slide type ON/OFF switch could still be
worked with one hand.

The problem is that I don't see any space in the fob for the kinds of
switches I am used to. The ideal solution, of course, would be for the
manufacturer to put something that's found even on most throwaway $10 MP3
players - a hold button that locks out the buttons when so desired. You'd
think with what they charge for a replacement fob they'd include something
like that.

I *might* be able to work a small slide or lever switch inside the fob, but
it's tight. In the interim, I made a clamshell type case made of hard clear
plastic bubble packing material and one of those retracting string keychain
things so I can slide it out to activate it and then let the rewinding
mechanism withdraw it. So far, the hard plastic sheath has reduced the
accidental openings, but it's butt ugly, ungainly and not a very good
solution. Plus, it came unglued more than once. There's a lot of
interesting stresses in pockets and pocketbooks. Ideas, anyone?

Thanks in advance!

--
Bobby G.



I don't know if anyone mentioned this but I just thought there
might be a way to make a swing cover for the remote much like
what I've seen for a small pocket magnifying loupe. I think
something like that would be the perfect thing to protect the
buttons on a key fob remote.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Lo...let-30x-0a.jpg

TDD

"Robert Green" a écrit dans le message de
groupe de discussion : ...

Tried that, actually. Two weeks of gooey tape riding around in a typical
pants pocket looks like a furry little mouse. It really just needs a
harder
plastic "skin" around it that makes the buttons a little harder to press
than they are now. I was kinda of hoping someone would post something
telling me "that's the fobshield 101, and you can get it at so and so's."



Did you try the Heat-shrink tubing approch?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing

Just use some large heat shrink tube on your keyfob then shrink it to fit..

when it will be worn out replace and your on the road again!

"Robert Green" wrote:

I've got the typical minivan keyless entry keychain fob
but it's got a serious design problem.

The buttons depress too easily and often accidentally
when the fob is pushed into a pocket or a purse. It's
happened more than once, so it's time to do something
about it.

Robert, this is a fairly common problem. Can you reprogram
the receiver? If so, set it so that it will only trip upon two
successive signals within say a 2- or 3-second interval.

If reprogramming the receiver isn't an option, consider
replacing it with something that does. These systems are
inexpensive to build from scratch and may prove to be an
entertaining project.

I can help you select parts if you like though technically
I've retired from my online business.

Regards,
Robert

"Robert Green" wrote

I think there's enough room if I find the right switch.

Robert,

One other non-tech solution is to cement a 1/4" deep
plastic ring around the button so you have to push into
it to hit the button.

Regards,
Robert

Hit Control Q quick and then tell everybody what you have done!


"Robert L Bass" wrote in message
...
"Robert Green" wrote

I think there's enough room if I find the right switch.

Robert,

One other non-tech solution is to cement a 1/4" deep
plastic ring around the button so you have to push into
it to hit the button.

Regards,
Robert

"petem" wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

Did you try the Heat-shrink tubing approch?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing

Just use some large heat shrink tube on your keyfob then shrink it to
fit..

when it will be worn out replace and your on the road again!

No, I hadn't thought of that, but it could be the winning suggestion. I'd
have to copy the markings on the buttons with a silver tipped pen, but I
think I have some heat shrink large enough to at least make a trial run.

Thanks for your input! I'm off to try it right now. . . .

Just tried it with one layer of heat shrink, and that helps. I think
there's room enough for a second layer, and that should do the trick!

Good call. This is why I always take my intractable problems to Usenet for
the "group mind" approach. Thanks to all who contributed to the process, as
there were some very good "also rans" in this thread.

The heat shrink method is not invasive, doesn't require good hand/eye
coordination and looks like it will do the trick, making the buttons just a
little harder to depress by accident. Considering how much I use heat
shrink tubing for everything around the house, I am surprised I didn't think
of it. I use the large diameter stuff to put on broom handles, canes and
other things where I need to have a good grip (and not get splinters!).
Turns out to be the right size for the fob, too. Best thing is that it
won't come undone accidentally like my O-ring/washer solutions do after a
while. Now to try to draw little pictograms on the buttons to indicate what
they do.

Thanks again, Pete, and to everyone who responded. Good work!

--
Bobby G.

Perhaps well placed holes with a paper hole punch may may the button
pressing more available??

Heat shrink can become brittle after a while with the heat exposure and
maybe UV?? Slit and replace every year or so?

Nice



"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
"petem" wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

Did you try the Heat-shrink tubing approch?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing

Just use some large heat shrink tube on your keyfob then shrink it to
fit..

when it will be worn out replace and your on the road again!

No, I hadn't thought of that, but it could be the winning suggestion. I'd
have to copy the markings on the buttons with a silver tipped pen, but I
think I have some heat shrink large enough to at least make a trial run.

Thanks for your input! I'm off to try it right now. . . .

Just tried it with one layer of heat shrink, and that helps. I think
there's room enough for a second layer, and that should do the trick!

Good call. This is why I always take my intractable problems to Usenet for
the "group mind" approach. Thanks to all who contributed to the process, as
there were some very good "also rans" in this thread.

The heat shrink method is not invasive, doesn't require good hand/eye
coordination and looks like it will do the trick, making the buttons just a
little harder to depress by accident. Considering how much I use heat
shrink tubing for everything around the house, I am surprised I didn't think
of it. I use the large diameter stuff to put on broom handles, canes and
other things where I need to have a good grip (and not get splinters!).
Turns out to be the right size for the fob, too. Best thing is that it
won't come undone accidentally like my O-ring/washer solutions do after a
while. Now to try to draw little pictograms on the buttons to indicate what
they do.

Thanks again, Pete, and to everyone who responded. Good work!

--
Bobby G.

"Ned Flanders" wrote in message
news:SFrzn.89216

stuff snipped

My new car will re-lock the doors if the unlock button is pressed but a
door (or the lift gate) is not opened within 30 seconds.

Are those power doors or manual ones? Both my side door and my hatch are
powered and open all the way by themselves when a button is pressed.

My van is a "conversion" done by a company that works with Chrylser and gets
the vehicles in a semi-stripped state so they don't have to remove stock
items to do the conversion:

www.braunability.com/

Pressing the key fob slides open the right side door, lowers the van about
six inches and then deploys the ramp. You'd think you'd hear that racket
walking away from the van when you've accidentally activated the system, but
it's really very silent. The only exception is when the van has not been
used for a while and the suspension binds just enough to make a loud bang
when the van begins kneeling.

It's a great system, but it's got its flaws. Number one is that you need
almost a full car width worth of space to deploy it and maneuver the
powerchair off the ramp. I can't tell you the number of times I've come
back to find the side completely blocked off.

I'd love to hear suggestions about how to keep the space next to me
unoccupied. I used to keep a traffic cone in the van, but it got stolen the
third time out. The second time out, someone just moved it aside.

The other problem is manuevering out of the powerchair and into the driver's
seat. It would be a lot better if there was no driver's seat and you could
maneuver the chair directly in front of the steering wheel. I know such
conversions exist - maybe on the next van.

--
Bobby G.

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Perhaps well placed holes with a paper hole punch may may the button
pressing more available??

Heat shrink can become brittle after a while with the heat exposure and
maybe UV?? Slit and replace every year or so?

I have enough tubing to do a fleet of fobs, so when it starts to go, I'll
just slit and replace, as you suggest. The only problem I see now is that
the silver pen writing on the heat shrink will wear off very quickly. I am
going to see if I can find white shrink tubing in the 1.5" size so I can
write on it with an indelible Sharpie.

It turns out that a second layer of heat-shrink tubing did the trick. I
tried to accidentally activate the unit and it only responds to direct
pressure now. Sweet!

Now, if only I had thought of replacing the battery before I put the shrink
tubing on. D'oh!

Now I won't have the neighbors asking why I left the doors open and the ramp
down all night. Ironically, when I leave it parked in the driveway, it's
impossible to see from the window or the CCTV cams whether the door is wide
open. It's on the opposite side and the rear windows are tinted. Three
cheers for Usenet and for Pete who came up with the heat shrink tubing.
Honorable mention goes to Josephi for the tape solution which had the same
idea using electrical tape, only slightly messier. (-:

--
Bobby G.

In article ,
"Robert Green" wrote:

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Perhaps well placed holes with a paper hole punch may may the button
pressing more available??

Heat shrink can become brittle after a while with the heat exposure and
maybe UV?? Slit and replace every year or so?

I have enough tubing to do a fleet of fobs, so when it starts to go, I'll
just slit and replace, as you suggest. The only problem I see now is that
the silver pen writing on the heat shrink will wear off very quickly. I am
going to see if I can find white shrink tubing in the 1.5" size so I can
write on it with an indelible Sharpie.

Why not use transparent heat shrink?


It turns out that a second layer of heat-shrink tubing did the trick. I
tried to accidentally activate the unit and it only responds to direct
pressure now. Sweet!

Now, if only I had thought of replacing the battery before I put the shrink
tubing on. D'oh!

Now I won't have the neighbors asking why I left the doors open and the ramp
down all night. Ironically, when I leave it parked in the driveway, it's
impossible to see from the window or the CCTV cams whether the door is wide
open. It's on the opposite side and the rear windows are tinted. Three
cheers for Usenet and for Pete who came up with the heat shrink tubing.
Honorable mention goes to Josephi for the tape solution which had the same
idea using electrical tape, only slightly messier. (-:

--
Bobby G.

--
Tom Stiller

PGP fingerprint = 5108 DDB2 9761 EDE5 E7E3 7BDA 71ED 6496 99C0 C7CF

"Tom Stiller" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Robert Green" wrote:

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Perhaps well placed holes with a paper hole punch may may the button
pressing more available??

Heat shrink can become brittle after a while with the heat exposure
and
maybe UV?? Slit and replace every year or so?

I have enough tubing to do a fleet of fobs, so when it starts to go,
I'll
just slit and replace, as you suggest. The only problem I see now is
that
the silver pen writing on the heat shrink will wear off very quickly. I
am
going to see if I can find white shrink tubing in the 1.5" size so I can
write on it with an indelible Sharpie.

Why not use transparent heat shrink?

'Cuz I didn't think of it!

!!!

D'oh times two.

Thanks,

--
Bobby G.

On 2010-04-23, Robert Green wrote:
[stuff about Braun wheelchair conversion]

It's a great system, but it's got its flaws. Number one is that you need
almost a full car width worth of space to deploy it and maneuver the
powerchair off the ramp. I can't tell you the number of times I've come
back to find the side completely blocked off.

I've gotten into arguments with people that park in the striped off spaces
next to the handicap space. Some people refuse to believe that space is
striped off to keep you from parking there. "The wheelchair is painted on
the other space. This one isn't being used and I need it."

I'd love to hear suggestions about how to keep the space next to me
unoccupied. I used to keep a traffic cone in the van, but it got stolen the
third time out. The second time out, someone just moved it aside.

I often park at an angle, covering part of the striped off space (or
another adjacent space if there are no van accessible spaces available).
That way, there's still room for the ramp and the chair, but not for
another vehicle.

The other problem is manuevering out of the powerchair and into the driver's
seat. It would be a lot better if there was no driver's seat and you could
maneuver the chair directly in front of the steering wheel. I know such
conversions exist - maybe on the next van.

There are advantages to having a driver seat since you're able to do the
transfer. The biggest one is that someone else can drive, if needed. While
it may be your vehicle and no one else needs to drive most of the time,
there are emergency situations where just having that ability to
accommodate another driver is nice.

That said, I'm actually very interested in driver side power chair lock
down systems right now. The problem we've run into is that the ones I know
of (EZ Lock and Permalock) require a special chair and/or a modification to
the chair. In the case of the EZ Lock, the mod is a non-retractable pin
that reduces ground clearance. A lot of people talk about getting hung up
on threshholds, stones, broken sidewalks, etc. The Permalock is only
available for Permobil chairs. I'm open to suggestions on this one. (I'm
also open to a more appropriate place to ask this. I'm not looking to
hijack a thread. But the OP brought up the topic.)

--
Larry Moss, http://www.airigami.com
PO Box 23523, Rochester, NY 14692, (585) 359-8695
Airigami: The fine art of folding air.

"Robert Green" wrote:
The only problem I see now is that the silver pen
writing on the heat shrink will wear off very quickly.

Robert,

I've used SAharpie fine point laundry markers on
wire for years. It will last forever once it's dry.
I actually prefer it to Dymo labels.

I did not realize you use a chair. So far I've only got
a cane. I've been offered a power chair but I don't
want it. Trying to get by with as few machines as I
can. :^(

Regards,
Robert

I'd love to hear suggestions about how to keep the space next to me
unoccupied.

Call the cops and get 'em towed.

Bill Kearney wrote:
I'd love to hear suggestions about how to keep the space next to me
unoccupied.

Call the cops and get 'em towed.

In some rich suburb, maybe. Anyplace else, no matter what they say on
the phone, it is not likely to be treated as a high-priority call. OP
may wait hours, if they respond at all. About the only suggestion I can
offer is to ask someone else to hop in and move the van, but that
requires a whole lot of trust and dependence on the kindness of strangers.

Some places, they are putting the ramp-van slots in places where another
vehicle can't block the ramp landing zone, or walling the landing zone
off with those yellow post thingies, and zebra-striping the area.

--
aem sends...

"Larry Moss" wrote in message
.. .
On 2010-04-23, Robert Green wrote:
[stuff about Braun wheelchair conversion]

It's a great system, but it's got its flaws. Number one is that you
need
almost a full car width worth of space to deploy it and maneuver the
powerchair off the ramp. I can't tell you the number of times I've come
back to find the side completely blocked off.

I've gotten into arguments with people that park in the striped off spaces
next to the handicap space. Some people refuse to believe that space is
striped off to keep you from parking there. "The wheelchair is painted on
the other space. This one isn't being used and I need it."

When that happens to me I think back to a very old, original Outer Limits
where scientists fake a creature from space (the recently departed Robert
Culp). I remember, as a kid, being very impressed by the special effects.
He points his ray gun at a station wagon and a moment later, there's nothing
but a burning outline of the car left on the ground. One time, I blocked an
illegal HC parker (a doctor's Mercedes, no less!) until the police arrived
and the result was they let HIM go and tried to give me a ticket until I
told them my sister was the county ADA. That shut them down *quick.* As an
aside, I believe the cops where I live have learned that harassing people
who call them lowers their workload because they know they'll never call
them again. But I digress.

I'd love to hear suggestions about how to keep the space next to me
unoccupied. I used to keep a traffic cone in the van, but it got stolen
the
third time out. The second time out, someone just moved it aside.

I often park at an angle, covering part of the striped off space (or
another adjacent space if there are no van accessible spaces available).
That way, there's still room for the ramp and the chair, but not for
another vehicle.

That's a good idea. Angle parking would allow more maneuvering room with
the ramp, too, even if no one parked in the shaded zones. II'm a little
fearful of doing that because some parking lot vigilante might take
exception to the disorderly look of a diagonally parked car and key me.

Most of the times, (ironically) I just go to the far end of the parking lot
and look for a space where I won't be easily blocked off. Since I'm in the
powerchair, being parked far away is not so much of an issue except for the
way some people zoom around in parking lots to get the closest space. The
more distance you have to cover in a parking lot means the more you have to
worry about some yahoo slamming into you. They hardly see the huge van, let
alone me in the tiny powerchair. Still, it's better than having to pull the
van out into the open lanes to effect the transfer, which I've been forced
to do when some bozo parks in the lined space between the HC spots.

This thread has reminded me to install the two xenon flashers I got from
Allelectronics on long fiberglass rods so that the powerchair is easily
visible to motorists as I scoot through the parking lot. If I had the room,
I'd install some truck-sized air horns, too. Especially for the families in
the mall who walk 6 abreast at about 2 mph, stopping suddenly whenever
something shiny catches their eyes forcing me to stop precipitously while
they stand there like statues in the middle of the walkway.

The other problem is manuevering out of the powerchair and into the
driver's
seat. It would be a lot better if there was no driver's seat and you
could
maneuver the chair directly in front of the steering wheel. I know such
conversions exist - maybe on the next van.

There are advantages to having a driver seat since you're able to do the
transfer. The biggest one is that someone else can drive, if needed. While
it may be your vehicle and no one else needs to drive most of the time,
there are emergency situations where just having that ability to
accommodate another driver is nice.

Sadly, I am all too well-aware of the tradeoffs. But now that both knees
have totally "blown out" the transfer problem has become a real issue.
Moving from powerchair to driver's chair requires contortions that I am less
and less able to accomplish. I may have to pull the driver's seat and have
the EZ-lock moved from the van center to the driver's slot.

That said, I'm actually very interested in driver side power chair lock
down systems right now. The problem we've run into is that the ones I know
of (EZ Lock and Permalock) require a special chair and/or a modification
to
the chair. In the case of the EZ Lock, the mod is a non-retractable pin
that reduces ground clearance. A lot of people talk about getting hung up
on threshholds, stones, broken sidewalks, etc. The Permalock is only
available for Permobil chairs. I'm open to suggestions on this one. (I'm
also open to a more appropriate place to ask this. I'm not looking to
hijack a thread. But the OP brought up the topic.)

I have, but do not use, the EZ-lock for that reason as well as others. The
last thing I need is more problems. Just recently, the chair has locked its
brakes when going over something that has a different surface. I was coming
out of the hospital, and the flying bridge to the parking lot has a metal
expansion joint about six inches wide. When the chair's wheels come off the
concrete walk and onto the smoother metal, the brakes apply. It nearly
threw me out of the chair when it first happened. It's really a problem
when it's rainy and some surfaces become exceptionally slick.

As for a proper group to post this is, I only found one wheelchair support
group on Usenet, but it has very few posts. I'll crosspost there just in
case it's just slow and not abandoned.

(I re-activated the cross-post to AHR because a) the people there have a
very wide range of experience on a lot of matters and b) are mostly adults
that don't go ballistic when a thread is not directly on topic, especially
if they can contribute something to the thread that's useful. Since most
ISP's have dropped Usenet, the volume of posts have lowered enough that
people don't seem to mind OT as much as they used to. In fact, CHA has gone
so moribund that I often wonder who's left to post!)

Crossposted: comp.home.automation,alt.home.repair, alt.support.wheelchairs

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Green" wrote:

... If I had the room, I'd install some truck-sized air horns, too.
Especially for the families in the mall who walk 6 abreast at
about 2 mph, stopping suddenly whenever something shiny
catches their eyes forcing me to stop precipitously while they
stand there like statues in the middle of the walkway.

Robert, I think I have just the solution for you. Motorcycle shops
sell an extremely loud air horn that's about the size of a big man's
closed fist. If you're interested, I'll call the local shop and get you
the make and model. They cost about $50. I put one on my Suzuki
and it's *very* loud and very effective.

Regards,
Robert

Ideas, anyone?

How about putting an O-ring under each button? Increase the pressure
necessary to activate the circuit.

It's an old-school trick learned back in the days of the Reset key being on
the Apple ][ keyboard. Putting a stiffer spring or an O-ring under the key
made it more difficult to press it accidentally (easy given it's proximity
to the backspace key).

Conversely my wife's cell phone has buttons on the outside lid (an LG
VX8350) for multimedia "features". The keypad underneath had little stubs
to press the switches. I snipped off a majority of the stubs and made the
buttons much harder to operate. Stupid feature that got on her nerves
anyway.

As far as cops and calls for handicapped parking, take it up with your local
representatives. That and the local TV stations and paper. They're always
looking for community issue material.

-Bill Kearney

On 2010-04-24, Robert Green wrote:
aside, I believe the cops where I live have learned that harassing people
who call them lowers their workload because they know they'll never call
them again.

For me it's usually two calls. One to the cops and one to the press. At
least, I always suggest on my first call that I'll make the second. I've
had wonderful luck with the media supporting me when we've had problems. I
also do better when I get the managers of stores, hotels and restaurants to
call the cops. A local business complaining about a disruption frequently
gets further than an individual with a complaint. If nothing else, it lets
the cops know that there are multiple people involved and that makes it
more significant to them.

That's a good idea. Angle parking would allow more maneuvering room with
the ramp, too, even if no one parked in the shaded zones. II'm a little
fearful of doing that because some parking lot vigilante might take
exception to the disorderly look of a diagonally parked car and key me.

Thankfully, that hasn't happened to me yet.

Most of the times, (ironically) I just go to the far end of the parking lot
and look for a space where I won't be easily blocked off.

I do that all the time. I also have the luxury of being able to drop off my
wife and then park since I'm not the one in the chair. This gets us around
the people parking us in most of the time too since I can move the van. But
we're hoping that she'll start driving soon. She's in a driver training
program now and we're experimenting with equipment. We treat it like it's
her driving all the time in order to work out all of this stuff for when
she's alone.

This thread has reminded me to install the two xenon flashers I got from
Allelectronics on long fiberglass rods so that the powerchair is easily
visible to motorists as I scoot through the parking lot.

link? I can't find it. I've put reflective tape all over the chair.
Flashers might come in handy some time. She just got a new chair and I
haven't taped up the new one.

I have, but do not use, the EZ-lock for that reason as well as others.

It doesn't take a lot of searching to find people complaining about EZ
Lock, so why isn't there something better out there yet? The Permalock
doesn't seem like the ideal solution either (even if you have a Permobil
chair) from what I've read. I'm not suggesting it's an easy problem to
solve. And I don't have a solution. It's just frustrating.

One thing we've talked about is putting the EZ lock on the old chair. Then
she can use the better chair most of the time and only worry about the old
one when she needs to drive. She'd do the transfer in the house where it
would be much easier.

--
Larry Moss, http://www.airigami.com
PO Box 23523, Rochester, NY 14692, (585) 359-8695
Airigami: The fine art of folding air.

"Robert Green" a écrit dans le message de
groupe de discussion : ...
"petem" wrote in message
...

stuff snipped

Did you try the Heat-shrink tubing approch?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing

Just use some large heat shrink tube on your keyfob then shrink it to
fit..

when it will be worn out replace and your on the road again!

No, I hadn't thought of that, but it could be the winning suggestion. I'd
have to copy the markings on the buttons with a silver tipped pen, but I
think I have some heat shrink large enough to at least make a trial run.

Thanks for your input! I'm off to try it right now. . . .

Just tried it with one layer of heat shrink, and that helps. I think
there's room enough for a second layer, and that should do the trick!

Good call. This is why I always take my intractable problems to Usenet
for
the "group mind" approach. Thanks to all who contributed to the process,
as
there were some very good "also rans" in this thread.

The heat shrink method is not invasive, doesn't require good hand/eye
coordination and looks like it will do the trick, making the buttons just
a
little harder to depress by accident. Considering how much I use heat
shrink tubing for everything around the house, I am surprised I didn't
think
of it. I use the large diameter stuff to put on broom handles, canes and
other things where I need to have a good grip (and not get splinters!).
Turns out to be the right size for the fob, too. Best thing is that it
won't come undone accidentally like my O-ring/washer solutions do after a
while. Now to try to draw little pictograms on the buttons to indicate
what
they do.

Thanks again, Pete, and to everyone who responded. Good work!

--
Bobby G.


Your welcome Bob...

Sometime a french man from Quebec can be usefull!! LOL