Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0

When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.

Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.

It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.

I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?

Thanks for all input.

"brassplyer" wrote in message
...
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0

When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.

Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.

It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.

I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?

Thanks for all input.


If there is any Freon (refregerant gas) in the system, it will have
pressure. YOu need to verify the compressor in outside unit is running.
There is probably a relay that will pull in to power the motor when it
starts up. A clamp on amp meter would tell if the compressor motor is
drawing current.

In simple terms the compressor is going to compress the gas, it goes to the
outside coils and is condensed into a liquid as it gives up the heat to the
outside air. It then goes inside and absorbs heat from the inside coils,
boils in doing so and back to the compressor.

"brassplyer" wrote in message
...
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0

When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.

Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.

It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.

I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?

Thanks for all input.



Sounds a little low. Better call the tech to come top it off.

"brassplyer" wrote in message
...
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0

When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.

Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.

It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.

I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?

Thanks for all input.

Its 22 years old... they don't last forever....especially when they are not
serviced regularly.

On Apr 5, 8:34*pm, "Steve" wrote:

Its 22 years old... they don't last forever....especially when they are not
serviced regularly.



It's not clear what "servicing" it needed. Turned it on, it worked.

Your local HVAC people can tell you.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"brassplyer" wrote in message
...
On Apr 5, 8:34 pm, "Steve" wrote:

Its 22 years old... they don't last forever....especially
when they are not
serviced regularly.



It's not clear what "servicing" it needed. Turned it on, it
worked.

"brassplyer" wrote in message
...
On Apr 5, 8:34 pm, "Steve" wrote:

Its 22 years old... they don't last forever....especially when they are
not
serviced regularly.



It's not clear what "servicing" it needed. Turned it on, it worked.

You turn on your car and it works... do you ever have it serviced?? after
all your probably not driving it but maybe an hour a day, and you buy a new
one avery couple of years..... Your heating and cooling system is the single
most expensive appliance in your home, and it runs 24/7....and you never
have it serviced??

Here's a BOHICA moment for you.... the cost of the typical system
replacement these days (not including any ductwork) is going to cost
anywhere from $5,000 - $15,000. I hope you got some money put back....your
gonna need it.

On Apr 5, 9:07*pm, "Steve" wrote:

You turn on your car and it works... do you ever have it serviced??


I do all my own auto servicing. There are specific pieces that are
subject to wear, corrosion, sacrificial fluids that need replacing.

It's my understanding that the "lubrication" in an A/C compressor is
contained within the freon, that if it has freon it's got lubrication.
Does one "change the oil" in an A/C system?


Your heating and cooling system is the single
most expensive appliance in your home, and it runs 24/7


Actually, mine only gets run sporadically. I don't run it day in, day
out. Only when it get hot or cold enough and only when I'm actually
home. There are probably people who run theirs more in a year than I
do in 5.


.and you never
have it serviced??


Can you specify what servicing could be done to it to make it last
longer? Not being facetious, just seems that an auto and an A/C system
are different animals. I don't do "maintenance" on my computer hard
drives either, other than occasional defragging and antivirus scan.
But there's no actual mechanical "maintenance" to be done.

The word I keep hearing about many A/C companies who solicit for
"maintenance" is that many are shady, similar to companies who tell
you you need to put "treatment" in your septic tank, etc.

"brassplyer" wrote in message
...
On Apr 5, 9:07 pm, "Steve" wrote:

You turn on your car and it works... do you ever have it serviced??


I do all my own auto servicing. There are specific pieces that are
subject to wear, corrosion, sacrificial fluids that need replacing.

It's my understanding that the "lubrication" in an A/C compressor is
contained within the freon, that if it has freon it's got lubrication.
Does one "change the oil" in an A/C system?


Your heating and cooling system is the single
most expensive appliance in your home, and it runs 24/7


Actually, mine only gets run sporadically. I don't run it day in, day
out. Only when it get hot or cold enough and only when I'm actually
home. There are probably people who run theirs more in a year than I
do in 5.


.and you never
have it serviced??


Can you specify what servicing could be done to it to make it last
longer? Not being facetious, just seems that an auto and an A/C system
are different animals. I don't do "maintenance" on my computer hard
drives either, other than occasional defragging and antivirus scan.
But there's no actual mechanical "maintenance" to be done.

The word I keep hearing about many A/C companies who solicit for
"maintenance" is that many are shady, similar to companies who tell
you you need to put "treatment" in your septic tank, etc.


Your car and you A/C both have moving parts, they both have filters, they
both have electrical systems, they both have blowers and fans. Your A/C also
has to have the refrigerant charge balance checked once everything is clean
and verified to operate properly so that it is operating as it was designed
to, as well as making sure that it has no refrigerant leaks.

BTW.. the refrigerant in your system is being "phased out". In the next
year, the price of that refrigerant is going to be 8 - 10 times higher
because of the most recent 75% reduction in production and importing of R22

As far as "shady" companies, do a little homework.... talk to friends,
family, inlaws, outlaws, folks you go to church with, etc..... ask them who
they use or don't use, and why.

On Apr 5, 8:43*pm, brassplyer wrote:
On Apr 5, 8:34*pm, "Steve" wrote:

Its 22 years old... they don't last forever....especially when they are not
serviced regularly.

It's not clear what "servicing" it needed. Turned it on, it worked.

The outside unit could have just the "fan" running, but do you hear
the compressor? The contactor might be corroded/intermittent. Give it
a whack and see if the compressor kicks on. Could also be a bad
capacitor.

On Apr 5, 10:22*pm, The King wrote:

The only servicing a residential a/c ever needs is a clean filter a
few times a year and hose out the condenser after the cotton woods
quit making cotton. *That's been my sure fire winner for over 20yrs
with mine. *


Right, exactly what I've been doing. And a couple of times I've had to
blow out the drainage line when it got clogged with gunk.



Or you can pay some Stormy Mormmy type simpleton to come
out and hook up their nasty gauge set every year, contaminate the
system and let a little gas out when they disconnect and charge you
out the ass for "the service".


Which is exactly what I've heard and why I've avoided having anyone
"service" it. I've gone under the assumption that since once fired up
it cooled the house off quickly and could easily get it colder than I
needed, things were working as they should.

On Apr 5, 10:37*pm, brassplyer wrote:
On Apr 5, 10:22*pm, The King wrote:

The only servicing a residential a/c ever needs is a clean filter a
few times a year and hose out the condenser after the cotton woods
quit making cotton. *That's been my sure fire winner for over 20yrs
with mine. *

Right, exactly what I've been doing. And a couple of times I've had to
blow out the drainage line when it got clogged with gunk.

Or you can pay some Stormy Mormmy type simpleton to come
out and hook up their nasty gauge set every year, contaminate the
system and let a little gas out when they disconnect and charge you
out the ass for "the service".

Which is exactly what I've heard and why I've avoided having anyone
"service" it. I've gone under the assumption that since once fired up
it cooled the house off quickly and could easily get it colder than I
needed, *things were working as they should.


Right, except if someone stole the refrigerant out of your outside
heat pump unit... Or something finally corroded through after
22 years of being outside in the elements... Or maybe you don't
cover your outside heat pump unit during the winter and ice
built up inside of it and snapped something letting the refrigerant
gas escape...

In every trade there are good companies and bad... Don't lump them
all in with the bad... It is obvious that you don't have a clue what
to
look for when you "hose down your condenser" and wouldn't know
how to find a refrigerant leak if that is what your problem is...

Stop being cheap and hire someone to come out and give your
AC unit an look to see what is wrong with it...

~ Evan

On Apr 6, 2:51*am, Evan wrote:
On Apr 5, 10:37*pm, brassplyer wrote:





On Apr 5, 10:22*pm, The King wrote:

The only servicing a residential a/c ever needs is a clean filter a
few times a year and hose out the condenser after the cotton woods
quit making cotton. *That's been my sure fire winner for over 20yrs
with mine. *

Right, exactly what I've been doing. And a couple of times I've had to
blow out the drainage line when it got clogged with gunk.

Or you can pay some Stormy Mormmy type simpleton to come
out and hook up their nasty gauge set every year, contaminate the
system and let a little gas out when they disconnect and charge you
out the ass for "the service".

Which is exactly what I've heard and why I've avoided having anyone
"service" it. I've gone under the assumption that since once fired up
it cooled the house off quickly and could easily get it colder than I
needed, *things were working as they should.

Right, except if someone stole the refrigerant out of your outside
heat pump unit... *Or something finally corroded through after
22 years of being outside in the elements... *Or maybe you don't
cover your outside heat pump unit during the winter and ice
built up inside of it and snapped something letting the refrigerant
gas escape...

In every trade there are good companies and bad... *Don't lump them
all in with the bad... *It is obvious that you don't have a clue what
to
look for when you "hose down your condenser" and wouldn't know
how to find a refrigerant leak if that is what your problem is...

Stop being cheap and hire someone to come out and give your
AC unit an look to see what is wrong with it...

~ Evan- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

In which case it would be "BROKEN" and need fixing. I agree with the
other posters, servicing is just a money making operation.

The OP probably needs someone to take a look at but not because it
needs servicing, because it's broken.

On Apr 6, 2:51*am, Evan wrote:

It is obvious that you don't have a clue what
to
look for when you "hose down your condenser"


My method - disconnect power from unit at the outside breaker and main
breaker. Take top grill/fan piece of condenser housing. Pull plant
crap out by hand and/or with a shop vac, hose down the coils to remove
other crap. Anything wrong with this?

Unit was working like a champ the last time I fired it up a few months
ago. Cooled off the house quickly. Sound like maintenance was
obviously called for (as of that time) to you?

After reading your messages, and your replies to the
tradesmen who have commented. It's obvious to me that you're
a hard core do it yourselfer. And that if a tradesman writes
"Well, your service guy needs to.... A, B, C..... that you
will take the covers off, and do your own version of what
the service guys do. Which may help, or it might not.

I've been servicing refrigeration and AC systems long enough
to know that there are a lot of things that are not obvious
to the untrained eye. I'm in the rapid learning part of my
career, it seems that every time I service a system, I learn
somthing new. I've only been in the trade for 15 years. So,
I encourage you to ask your friends and neighbors, and see
who they reccomend.

It sounds like you are going to keep coasting down the road
of "well, it's working....". Which might be successful for
you, or it may lead to an early failure. I guess we'll never
know.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"brassplyer"
wrote in message
...

Which is exactly what I've heard and why I've avoided having
anyone
"service" it. I've gone under the assumption that since once
fired up
it cooled the house off quickly and could easily get it
colder than I
needed, things were working as they should.

On Apr 6, 8:56*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
After reading your messages, and your replies to the
tradesmen who have commented. It's obvious to me that you're
a hard core do it yourselfer. And that if a tradesman writes
"Well, your service guy *needs to.... A, B, C..... that you
will take the covers off, and do your own version of what
the service guys do. Which may help, or it might not.


Well, I tend to do it myself within the bounds of common sense. Almost
never pay an auto mechanic, have replaced engines, trannies, etc.
myself. Installed my own water heater, repaired an entire section of
carpenter ant damaged wall, etc.

However, I'm also conscious of possible hazards of fumbling around
something I'm not familiar with or accidentally trashing a unit that
*could* have been salvaged by a reputable pro had they been given the
chance to work on it before I wreaked havoc on it.

If I can find something obvious that I can remedy it myself, I'm more
than happy to tackle it. But at this point I'm trying to become
educated as much as anything.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote


After reading your messages, and your replies to the
tradesmen who have commented. It's obvious to me that you're
a hard core do it yourselfer. And that if a tradesman writes

While I am willing to know when I need a pro.

"Well, your service guy needs to.... A, B, C..... that you
will take the covers off, and do your own version of what
the service guys do. Which may help, or it might not.

I doubt I will see a problem. I don't know what to look for.

I've been servicing refrigeration and AC systems long enough
to know that there are a lot of things that are not obvious
to the untrained eye. I'm in the rapid learning part of my
career, it seems that every time I service a system, I learn
somthing new. I've only been in the trade for 15 years. So,
I encourage you to ask your friends and neighbors, and see
who they reccomend.

I have a company coming out tomorrow to check mine. I probably do not need
a full HVAC reoplacement (combined heat and AC and heat worked while AC is
under cooling). All I know we skipped HVAC maintenance while paying off
25,000$ in rental damage and some 5,000$ in materials to 'DIY' repairs.

I am pretty sure we just need added coolant. We have not done that in 3
years since return as as far as we lnow, it was last done in 1998. The
renters were not bashful at all at getting contractors in the reducing their
rent by the cost and filing after the fact but there is no referent to Freon
added. Heck I was in Japan. I can just reasonably guess last fill was 1998.

In my case, still have AC but it is not as cool as it should be. Last year
it was 'ok' but I recall it being better.

Professionals due in tomorrow to service the unit and do what is needed.

brassplyer wrote:
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0

When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.

Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.

It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.

I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?

Thanks for all input.



Twice today I had to replace the combination fan/compressor capacitor
on two different AC units. One of them was a Trane, the other a
Goodman. Both capacitors had swelled so the top with the terminals
had gone from flat to dome shape, this broke the connections inside
the capacitor which kept the compressor from running. If you see a
cylindrical or oval shaped capacitor with three connecting points
for one or more 1/4" Faston or flat push on connectors, that could
be your problem. Often there are separate capacitors but usually
the manufacturer installs a combination capacitor. The red wire is
usually the common going to the "C" terminal sometimes along with a
purple wire, a brown to the "fan" terminal and an orange, yellow or
blue to the terminal "herm" which is hermetic for the hermetically
sealed compressor's "S" terminal. If it is the capacitor, I would
recommend installing a 440vac rated capacitor if it already doesn't
have one. Many are rated a 370vac and you can go up in voltage
rating but it's not a good idea to go down in voltage rating. Check
out this link with pictures:

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/A...ide/index.html

http://tinyurl.com/66jdnv

TDD

On Apr 6, 12:55*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
brassplyer wrote:
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0

When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.

Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.

It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.

I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?

Thanks for all input.

Twice today I had to replace the combination fan/compressor capacitor
on two different AC units. One of them was a Trane, the other a
Goodman. Both capacitors had swelled so the top with the terminals
had gone from flat to dome shape, this broke the connections inside
the capacitor which kept the compressor from running. If you see a
cylindrical or oval shaped capacitor with three connecting points
for one or more 1/4" Faston or flat push on connectors, that could
be your problem. Often there are separate capacitors but usually
the manufacturer installs a combination capacitor. The red wire is
usually the common going to the "C" terminal sometimes along with a
purple wire, a brown to the "fan" terminal and an orange, yellow or
blue to the terminal "herm" which is hermetic for the hermetically
sealed compressor's "S" terminal. If it is the capacitor, I would
recommend installing a 440vac rated capacitor if it already doesn't
have one. Many are rated a 370vac and you can go up in voltage
rating but it's not a good idea to go down in voltage rating. Check
out this link with pictures:

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/A...-Run-Capacitor...

http://tinyurl.com/66jdnv

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


With a 22 year old unit, and depending on how often it's used, the
best thing may be to take advantage of all the fed tax credits and
rebates availabe and get a new one. A new one is going to be
significantly more efficient and use less electricity.

On Apr 6, 8:37*am, wrote:
On Apr 6, 12:55*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:





brassplyer wrote:
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0

When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine..
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.

Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.

It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.

I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?

Thanks for all input.

Twice today I had to replace the combination fan/compressor capacitor
on two different AC units. One of them was a Trane, the other a
Goodman. Both capacitors had swelled so the top with the terminals
had gone from flat to dome shape, this broke the connections inside
the capacitor which kept the compressor from running. If you see a
cylindrical or oval shaped capacitor with three connecting points
for one or more 1/4" Faston or flat push on connectors, that could
be your problem. Often there are separate capacitors but usually
the manufacturer installs a combination capacitor. The red wire is
usually the common going to the "C" terminal sometimes along with a
purple wire, a brown to the "fan" terminal and an orange, yellow or
blue to the terminal "herm" which is hermetic for the hermetically
sealed compressor's "S" terminal. If it is the capacitor, I would
recommend installing a 440vac rated capacitor if it already doesn't
have one. Many are rated a 370vac and you can go up in voltage
rating but it's not a good idea to go down in voltage rating. Check
out this link with pictures:

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/A...-Run-Capacitor...

http://tinyurl.com/66jdnv

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

With a 22 year old unit, and depending on how often it's used, the
best thing may be to take advantage of all the fed tax credits and
rebates availabe and get a new one. * A new one is going to be
significantly more efficient and use less electricity.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Difficult to make that call. If it is only used occasionally and it's
just got a bad cap? Replace/repair decisions have a lot of factors.
If it needs a compressor then yea, replace.

wrote:
On Apr 6, 12:55 am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
brassplyer wrote:
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0
When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.
Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.
It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.
I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?
Thanks for all input.
Twice today I had to replace the combination fan/compressor capacitor
on two different AC units. One of them was a Trane, the other a
Goodman. Both capacitors had swelled so the top with the terminals
had gone from flat to dome shape, this broke the connections inside
the capacitor which kept the compressor from running. If you see a
cylindrical or oval shaped capacitor with three connecting points
for one or more 1/4" Faston or flat push on connectors, that could
be your problem. Often there are separate capacitors but usually
the manufacturer installs a combination capacitor. The red wire is
usually the common going to the "C" terminal sometimes along with a
purple wire, a brown to the "fan" terminal and an orange, yellow or
blue to the terminal "herm" which is hermetic for the hermetically
sealed compressor's "S" terminal. If it is the capacitor, I would
recommend installing a 440vac rated capacitor if it already doesn't
have one. Many are rated a 370vac and you can go up in voltage
rating but it's not a good idea to go down in voltage rating. Check
out this link with pictures:

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/A...-Run-Capacitor...

http://tinyurl.com/66jdnv

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


With a 22 year old unit, and depending on how often it's used, the
best thing may be to take advantage of all the fed tax credits and
rebates availabe and get a new one. A new one is going to be
significantly more efficient and use less electricity.

Why tell me? The folks I do work for don't have the money to replace
a system. BeeHO hasn't stimulated theirs or my bank account so folks
call on me to repair what they have. It's called survival and making
do with what you got. I had an old fellow call me one day to look at
a Carrier he had bought back in the early 70's. It was the best and most
expensive unit Carrier made for homes at that time. It has stainless
steel hardware, factory sight glass, high and low pressure controls,
anti short cycle timer and a temperature controlled two speed condenser
fan. The condenser fan motor burned out and an HVAC company told him
he needed a new system. I took a look at his old Rolls Royce of an AC
and told him "Don't you dare get rid of this system!". I replaced the
two speed condenser fan motor and the system goes into low speed mode
at night and thanks to an insulating blanket over the compressor, it
barely makes a sound in quiet mode. His neighbors all around him have
newer AC units that sound like airplanes taking off. The repair bill
was quite a bit less than the $8,000 the other guys wanted.

TDD

And, that's the state of the economy. We're headed into a
depression to make 1929 look like party week at the frat
house. I get plenty of chances to rescue older equipment. I
regularly work on R-12 equipment that dates back to before
the freon boondoggle.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"The Daring Dufas" wrote
in message ...


Why tell me? The folks I do work for don't have the money to
replace
a system. BeeHO hasn't stimulated theirs or my bank account
so folks
call on me to repair what they have. It's called survival
and making
do with what you got. I had an old fellow call me one day to
look at
a Carrier he had bought back in the early 70's. It was the
best and most
expensive unit Carrier made for homes at that time. It has
stainless
steel hardware, factory sight glass, high and low pressure
controls,
anti short cycle timer and a temperature controlled two
speed condenser
fan. The condenser fan motor burned out and an HVAC company
told him
he needed a new system. I took a look at his old Rolls Royce
of an AC
and told him "Don't you dare get rid of this system!". I
replaced the
two speed condenser fan motor and the system goes into low
speed mode
at night and thanks to an insulating blanket over the
compressor, it
barely makes a sound in quiet mode. His neighbors all around
him have
newer AC units that sound like airplanes taking off. The
repair bill
was quite a bit less than the $8,000 the other guys wanted.

TDD

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Apr 6, 12:55 am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
brassplyer wrote:
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0
When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.
Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.
It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.
I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?
Thanks for all input.
Twice today I had to replace the combination fan/compressor capacitor
on two different AC units. One of them was a Trane, the other a
Goodman. Both capacitors had swelled so the top with the terminals
had gone from flat to dome shape, this broke the connections inside
the capacitor which kept the compressor from running. If you see a
cylindrical or oval shaped capacitor with three connecting points
for one or more 1/4" Faston or flat push on connectors, that could
be your problem. Often there are separate capacitors but usually
the manufacturer installs a combination capacitor. The red wire is
usually the common going to the "C" terminal sometimes along with a
purple wire, a brown to the "fan" terminal and an orange, yellow or
blue to the terminal "herm" which is hermetic for the hermetically
sealed compressor's "S" terminal. If it is the capacitor, I would
recommend installing a 440vac rated capacitor if it already doesn't
have one. Many are rated a 370vac and you can go up in voltage
rating but it's not a good idea to go down in voltage rating. Check
out this link with pictures:

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/A...-Run-Capacitor...

http://tinyurl.com/66jdnv

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


With a 22 year old unit, and depending on how often it's used, the
best thing may be to take advantage of all the fed tax credits and
rebates availabe and get a new one. A new one is going to be
significantly more efficient and use less electricity.

Why tell me? The folks I do work for don't have the money to replace
a system. BeeHO hasn't stimulated theirs or my bank account so folks
call on me to repair what they have. It's called survival and making
do with what you got. I had an old fellow call me one day to look at
a Carrier he had bought back in the early 70's. It was the best and most
expensive unit Carrier made for homes at that time. It has stainless
steel hardware, factory sight glass, high and low pressure controls,
anti short cycle timer and a temperature controlled two speed condenser
fan. The condenser fan motor burned out and an HVAC company told him
he needed a new system. I took a look at his old Rolls Royce of an AC
and told him "Don't you dare get rid of this system!". I replaced the
two speed condenser fan motor and the system goes into low speed mode
at night and thanks to an insulating blanket over the compressor, it
barely makes a sound in quiet mode. His neighbors all around him have
newer AC units that sound like airplanes taking off. The repair bill
was quite a bit less than the $8,000 the other guys wanted.

TDD


We can't help it if you don't charge enough.

Oscar_Lives wrote:
"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Apr 6, 12:55 am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
brassplyer wrote:
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0
When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.
Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.
It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.
I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?
Thanks for all input.
Twice today I had to replace the combination fan/compressor capacitor
on two different AC units. One of them was a Trane, the other a
Goodman. Both capacitors had swelled so the top with the terminals
had gone from flat to dome shape, this broke the connections inside
the capacitor which kept the compressor from running. If you see a
cylindrical or oval shaped capacitor with three connecting points
for one or more 1/4" Faston or flat push on connectors, that could
be your problem. Often there are separate capacitors but usually
the manufacturer installs a combination capacitor. The red wire is
usually the common going to the "C" terminal sometimes along with a
purple wire, a brown to the "fan" terminal and an orange, yellow or
blue to the terminal "herm" which is hermetic for the hermetically
sealed compressor's "S" terminal. If it is the capacitor, I would
recommend installing a 440vac rated capacitor if it already doesn't
have one. Many are rated a 370vac and you can go up in voltage
rating but it's not a good idea to go down in voltage rating. Check
out this link with pictures:

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/A...-Run-Capacitor...

http://tinyurl.com/66jdnv

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

With a 22 year old unit, and depending on how often it's used, the
best thing may be to take advantage of all the fed tax credits and
rebates availabe and get a new one. A new one is going to be
significantly more efficient and use less electricity.
Why tell me? The folks I do work for don't have the money to replace
a system. BeeHO hasn't stimulated theirs or my bank account so folks
call on me to repair what they have. It's called survival and making
do with what you got. I had an old fellow call me one day to look at
a Carrier he had bought back in the early 70's. It was the best and most
expensive unit Carrier made for homes at that time. It has stainless
steel hardware, factory sight glass, high and low pressure controls,
anti short cycle timer and a temperature controlled two speed condenser
fan. The condenser fan motor burned out and an HVAC company told him
he needed a new system. I took a look at his old Rolls Royce of an AC
and told him "Don't you dare get rid of this system!". I replaced the
two speed condenser fan motor and the system goes into low speed mode
at night and thanks to an insulating blanket over the compressor, it
barely makes a sound in quiet mode. His neighbors all around him have
newer AC units that sound like airplanes taking off. The repair bill
was quite a bit less than the $8,000 the other guys wanted.

TDD


We can't help it if you don't charge enough.



I just hope I have some change left when the Commiecrats are finally
voted out of office. *snicker*

TDD

In article , brassplyer wrote:
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0

When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.

Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.

It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.

I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?

Thanks for all input.


One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220 line and measure the amps.
On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of refridgerent
but its still working. older AC will draw a lot more amps.

greg

In article , (GregS) wrote:
In article ,
brassplyer wrote:
Have a Trane central system installed in 88. Model T V030 A140A0

When I last ran the A/C a few months ago it seemed to be working fine.
Usually when it fires up, you can hear a shursssshhhhh-shurrssssh
which I gather is freon starting to move within the system and you can
feel the bubbles in a tube at the front of the air handler housing.

Now when I fire it up I get no freon sound and no cool air. The air
handler is funning and the fan on the compressor unit outside is
running. I depressed the Hi Press fitting a really quick hit just to
verify there's pressure and there is.

It actually exhibited this behavior years ago when it was newer - a
few restarts seemed to get it kicked into gear, but so far no luck.

I'm not versed in A/C but am otherwise mechanically inclined, no
problem whatsoever digging into things with proper direction. Any
primary suspects I should look at before calling someone in?

Thanks for all input.


One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220 line and measure
the amps.
On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of refridgerent
but its still working. older AC will draw a lot more amps.

greg

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html.../images/11.jpg

Great link! Working that back, led to a list of JPEG files,
that can be printed.
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/wkend0412/images/

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"GregS" wrote in message
...
One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220
line and measure
the amps.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html.../images/11.jpg

That can provide some information. Of course, an older unit
will draw more. A dirty unit will draw more. An under
charged unit will draw less.

Dirty and undercharged can cancell each other out.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"GregS" wrote in message
...

One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220
line and measure the amps.
On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of
refridgerent
but its still working. older AC will draw a lot more amps.

greg

On Apr 7, 10:54*am, (GregS) wrote:


One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220 line and measure the amps.
On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of refridgerent

greg

As far as I know, there is no consumption of refrigerant in any
residential system.

If you're low, you have a leak. You fix the leak and refill. There
is no periodic topping off of refrigerant that got used up, can't
happen.

On Apr 7, 10:12*pm, TimR wrote:
On Apr 7, 10:54*am, (GregS) wrote:



One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220 line and measure the amps.
On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of refridgerent

greg

As far as I know, there is no consumption of refrigerant in any
residential system.

If you're low, you have a leak. *You fix the leak and refill. *There
is no periodic topping off of refrigerant that got used up, can't
happen.

Yes, but extremely small leaks of a few ounces a year can be almost
impossible to find and fix. There are a lot of systems with that
problem. The only practical solution is to add a little refridgerant
every couple years.

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Apr 7, 10:12 pm, TimR wrote:
On Apr 7, 10:54 am, (GregS) wrote:



One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220 line and measure the amps.
On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of refridgerent
greg
As far as I know, there is no consumption of refrigerant in any
residential system.

If you're low, you have a leak. You fix the leak and refill. There
is no periodic topping off of refrigerant that got used up, can't
happen.

Yes, but extremely small leaks of a few ounces a year can be almost
impossible to find and fix. There are a lot of systems with that
problem. The only practical solution is to add a little refridgerant
every couple years.

I've had very good luck with a stop leak from the company Cliplight
Manufacturing. I use it for systems that have tiny leaks that would
require a major disassembly to find. I always pull a deep vacuum on
anything that has been rebuilt and use nitrogen to blow through it
a few times. When me and my friends install a new system on a job
somewhere, the condenser may not be installed until the building or
home is ready to be occupied because too many condensing units have
been stolen. We will blow the lines and evaporator out with nitrogen,
install service valves on the line set, pressurize it with nitrogen
and leave it that way until it's time to set the condenser. The good
thing about leaving lines and evaporator charged with N2 is that we
know if there is a leak or if a carpenter put a nail through a line.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/lby8fz

TDD

On Apr 8, 9:22*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
On Apr 7, 10:12 pm, TimR wrote:
On Apr 7, 10:54 am, (GregS) wrote:

One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220 line and measure the amps.
On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of refridgerent
greg
As far as I know, there is no consumption of refrigerant in any
residential system.

If you're low, you have a leak. *You fix the leak and refill. *There
is no periodic topping off of refrigerant that got used up, can't
happen.

Yes, but extremely small leaks of a few ounces a year can be almost
impossible to find and fix. *There are a lot of systems with that
problem. *The only practical solution is to add a little refridgerant
every couple years.

I've had very good luck with a stop leak from the company Cliplight
Manufacturing. I use it for systems that have tiny leaks that would
require a major disassembly to find. I always pull a deep vacuum on
anything that has been rebuilt and use nitrogen to blow through it
a few times. When me and my friends install a new system on a job
somewhere, the condenser may not be installed until the building or
home is ready to be occupied because too many condensing units have
been stolen. We will blow the lines and evaporator out with nitrogen,
install service valves on the line set, pressurize it with nitrogen
and leave it that way until it's time to set the condenser. The good
thing about leaving lines and evaporator charged with N2 is that we
know if there is a leak or if a carpenter put a nail through a line.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/lby8fz

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I tried that on one system. The compressor was a far bit noisier
after adding that sealer. It ran that way for another year or so but
it didn't sound good while doing it.

On Apr 8, 8:32*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Apr 7, 10:12*pm, TimR wrote:

On Apr 7, 10:54*am, (GregS) wrote:

One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220 line and measure the amps.
On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of refridgerent

greg

As far as I know, there is no consumption of refrigerant in any
residential system.

If you're low, you have a leak. *You fix the leak and refill. *There
is no periodic topping off of refrigerant that got used up, can't
happen.

Yes, but extremely small leaks of a few ounces a year can be almost
impossible to find and fix. *There are a lot of systems with that
problem. *The only practical solution is to add a little refridgerant
every couple years.

Yes, that's what many techs do. Shoot a quick squirt in, satisfy the
customer, guarantee a return visit next year.

Professionals on the other hand know how to fix the leak, and do the
job right.

In article , TimR wrote:
On Apr 8, 8:32=A0am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Apr 7, 10:12=A0pm, TimR wrote:

On Apr 7, 10:54=A0am, (GregS) wrote:

One thing you can do is take a clamp ammeter around the 220 line and =
measure the amps.
On mine I measure 6 amps, which probably shows some loss of refridger=
ent

greg

As far as I know, there is no consumption of refrigerant in any
residential system.

If you're low, you have a leak. =A0You fix the leak and refill. =A0Ther=
e
is no periodic topping off of refrigerant that got used up, can't
happen.

Yes, but extremely small leaks of a few ounces a year can be almost
impossible to find and fix. =A0There are a lot of systems with that
problem. =A0The only practical solution is to add a little refridgerant
every couple years.

Yes, that's what many techs do. Shoot a quick squirt in, satisfy the
customer, guarantee a return visit next year.

Professionals on the other hand know how to fix the leak, and do the
job right.

I have used some window units for 40 years and still work.
When I see thin aluminum cores, you go to wonder.
The more efficient the more chance of failure.
Now my Cavalier was working great up untill
last month when all hell broke loose. The garage man says he tops his
off a couple times a year. Last year I was trying to top off my 77 280Z
with R134, and it worked for a while, longer than the last time I tried,
15 years ago. I gave away my last can when I sold the car.
Compressor leaks are common on the vehicles.

My House air sort of seems a little slow, but its only taking 1500 watts
and its supposed to be a 2.5 ton.

I had window air units taking 23 amps at 220.


greg

There is no such thing as perfect. All refrigeration systems
leak to some extent. When I got my EPA card, the law said we
can top off any system with less than 50 pounds of
refrigerant.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"TimR"
wrote in message
...

As far as I know, there is no consumption of refrigerant in
any
residential system.

If you're low, you have a leak. You fix the leak and
refill. There
is no periodic topping off of refrigerant that got used up,
can't
happen.

"The King" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:34:53 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

There is no such thing as perfect. All refrigeration systems
leak to some extent.

Why do you lie?


Why do bears **** in the woods?

Oscar_Lives wrote:
"The King" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:34:53 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

There is no such thing as perfect. All refrigeration systems
leak to some extent.
Why do you lie?


Why do bears **** in the woods?

Such information is classified and only released on a need to go basis.

The King wrote:
On Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:27:09 -0500, "Oscar_Lives"
wrote:

"The King" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:34:53 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

There is no such thing as perfect. All refrigeration systems
leak to some extent.
Why do you lie?

Why do bears **** in the woods?

Bears are mormon too?

Naw... They would look silly running around in Holy underwear.