What does the lockout timer do on a 20-year-old Payne home gas-fired
heating/ac burner?

The technician came to see why the heat kept shutting off the pilot flame
and he took the "lockout timer" with him after testing. This black plastic
box had wires attached to it which he wired to the furnace with jumpers.

Before, the pilot flame would light, then the burners, and then after a
bunch of clicks, the whole flame would die out before the fan blower kicked
in. Now, with the lockout timer removed and its wires taped up with
jumpers, the pilot lights, then the burners light, and then after a few
minutes, the blower kicks in forcing heat throughout the house.

As he cheerfully left the house, with the heater finally working, he said
he'd be back with a new lockout timer in a few days.

My question is: If the lockout timer isn't needed, what does it do?

Also, he drilled some holes in the before and after ducts and inserted a
meter which showed 0.39 inches of water of pressure. He said it should be
much larger than that and that I needed a whole new system. Any information
on what the pressure means? (He didnt' even tape up the holes.)

Kat Rabun wrote:
What does the lockout timer do on a 20-year-old Payne home gas-fired
heating/ac burner?

The technician came to see why the heat kept shutting off the pilot flame
and he took the "lockout timer" with him after testing. This black plastic
box had wires attached to it which he wired to the furnace with jumpers.

Before, the pilot flame would light, then the burners, and then after a
bunch of clicks, the whole flame would die out before the fan blower kicked
in. Now, with the lockout timer removed and its wires taped up with
jumpers, the pilot lights, then the burners light, and then after a few
minutes, the blower kicks in forcing heat throughout the house.

As he cheerfully left the house, with the heater finally working, he said
he'd be back with a new lockout timer in a few days.

My question is: If the lockout timer isn't needed, what does it do?

Also, he drilled some holes in the before and after ducts and inserted a
meter which showed 0.39 inches of water of pressure. He said it should be
much larger than that and that I needed a whole new system. Any information
on what the pressure means? (He didnt' even tape up the holes.)

I believe he was measuring 0.39 inches of water column. It has to
do with the static pressure in the ductwork when the blower is running.
Here's a link that may help you understand it a bit better:

http://tinyurl.com/yjyruy4

The static pressure in your system may perhaps be raised by the service
tech changing the speed jumper to a higher speed for the blower motor.

TDD

"Kat Rabun" wrote
in message ...
What does the lockout timer do on a 20-year-old Payne home gas-fired
heating/ac burner?

The technician came to see why the heat kept shutting off the pilot flame
and he took the "lockout timer" with him after testing. This black plastic
box had wires attached to it which he wired to the furnace with jumpers.

Before, the pilot flame would light, then the burners, and then after a
bunch of clicks, the whole flame would die out before the fan blower
kicked
in. Now, with the lockout timer removed and its wires taped up with
jumpers, the pilot lights, then the burners light, and then after a few
minutes, the blower kicks in forcing heat throughout the house.

As he cheerfully left the house, with the heater finally working, he said
he'd be back with a new lockout timer in a few days.

My question is: If the lockout timer isn't needed, what does it do?



If the circuit does not think the main flame is going after a short time
period the lockout timmer will cut off the gas. This is so that if the
flame goes out you do not have an open gas line. It could let gas out and
if there is a spark the whole house goes up in flames.

On Mar 14, 1:49*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
Kat Rabun wrote:
What does the lockout timer do on a 20-year-old Payne home gas-fired
heating/ac burner?

The technician came to see why the heat kept shutting off the pilot flame
and he took the "lockout timer" with him after testing. This black plastic
box had wires attached to it which he wired to the furnace with jumpers..

Before, the pilot flame would light, then the burners, and then after a
bunch of clicks, the whole flame would die out before the fan blower kicked
in. Now, with the lockout timer removed and its wires taped up with
jumpers, the pilot lights, then the burners light, and then after a few
minutes, the blower kicks in forcing heat throughout the house.

As he cheerfully left the house, with the heater finally working, he said
he'd be back with a new lockout timer in a few days.

My question is: If the lockout timer isn't needed, what does it do?

Also, he drilled some holes in the before and after ducts and inserted a
meter which showed 0.39 inches of water of pressure. He said it should be
much larger than that and that I needed a whole new system. Any information
on what the pressure means? (He didnt' even tape up the holes.)

I believe he was measuring 0.39 inches of water column. It has to
do with the static pressure in the ductwork when the blower is running.
Here's a link that may help you understand it a bit better:

http://tinyurl.com/yjyruy4

The static pressure in your system may perhaps be raised by the service
tech changing the speed jumper to a higher speed for the blower motor.

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Not likely. He would have measured the temp as well. You can't raise
the speed if the outlet temp was already in the correct range. It
would cool the heat exchanger too much.

While you system muight be undersized that's info I'd just hang on to
until it HAS to be replaced.

Sounds like a safety protection. To shut off the gas valve
if the burner doesn't light. So that the gas doesn't keep
flowing, and fill the furnace, or cellar.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Kat Rabun"

wrote in message ...
What does the lockout timer do on a 20-year-old Payne home
gas-fired
heating/ac burner?

The technician came to see why the heat kept shutting off
the pilot flame
and he took the "lockout timer" with him after testing. This
black plastic
box had wires attached to it which he wired to the furnace
with jumpers.

Before, the pilot flame would light, then the burners, and
then after a
bunch of clicks, the whole flame would die out before the
fan blower kicked
in. Now, with the lockout timer removed and its wires taped
up with
jumpers, the pilot lights, then the burners light, and then
after a few
minutes, the blower kicks in forcing heat throughout the
house.

As he cheerfully left the house, with the heater finally
working, he said
he'd be back with a new lockout timer in a few days.

My question is: If the lockout timer isn't needed, what does
it do?

Also, he drilled some holes in the before and after ducts
and inserted a
meter which showed 0.39 inches of water of pressure. He said
it should be
much larger than that and that I needed a whole new system.
Any information
on what the pressure means? (He didnt' even tape up the
holes.)

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 14, 1:49 am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
Kat Rabun wrote:
What does the lockout timer do on a 20-year-old Payne home gas-fired
heating/ac burner?
The technician came to see why the heat kept shutting off the pilot flame
and he took the "lockout timer" with him after testing. This black plastic
box had wires attached to it which he wired to the furnace with jumpers.
Before, the pilot flame would light, then the burners, and then after a
bunch of clicks, the whole flame would die out before the fan blower kicked
in. Now, with the lockout timer removed and its wires taped up with
jumpers, the pilot lights, then the burners light, and then after a few
minutes, the blower kicks in forcing heat throughout the house.
As he cheerfully left the house, with the heater finally working, he said
he'd be back with a new lockout timer in a few days.
My question is: If the lockout timer isn't needed, what does it do?
Also, he drilled some holes in the before and after ducts and inserted a
meter which showed 0.39 inches of water of pressure. He said it should be
much larger than that and that I needed a whole new system. Any information
on what the pressure means? (He didnt' even tape up the holes.)
I believe he was measuring 0.39 inches of water column. It has to
do with the static pressure in the ductwork when the blower is running.
Here's a link that may help you understand it a bit better:

http://tinyurl.com/yjyruy4

The static pressure in your system may perhaps be raised by the service
tech changing the speed jumper to a higher speed for the blower motor.

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Not likely. He would have measured the temp as well. You can't raise
the speed if the outlet temp was already in the correct range. It
would cool the heat exchanger too much.

While you system muight be undersized that's info I'd just hang on to
until it HAS to be replaced.

After posting, I had a thought that the evaporator fins could be
clogged. I've seen so many things affect airflow including the
blades of the squirrel cage blower being loaded with dirt. I have
also seen the blower motor jumper plugged into the wrong spot,
insulation flapping loose and the infamous too many registers shut
off. As you know it's impossible to diagnose remotely with limited info.
Assuming the tech measured the temperature, why would he not inform
the customer of this? From the OP, it appears that the only measurement
made was static pressure.

A friend called me to his house because his furnace was making a
funny rattling noise while running. The schematic diagram had come
loose from the blower compartment door and had been sucked into
the blower acting like the playing cards we clipped to our bicycle
frames to snap against the spokes as we rode our bikes when we
were kids. All sorts of things went through my mind from his
description of the noise until I actually heard it in person.


TDD

On Mar 14, 9:52*am, "Ralph Mowery" wrote:
"Kat Rabun" wrote
in ...





What does the lockout timer do on a 20-year-old Payne home gas-fired
heating/ac burner?

The technician came to see why the heat kept shutting off the pilot flame
and he took the "lockout timer" with him after testing. This black plastic
box had wires attached to it which he wired to the furnace with jumpers..

Before, the pilot flame would light, then the burners, and then after a
bunch of clicks, the whole flame would die out before the fan blower
kicked
in. Now, with the lockout timer removed and its wires taped up with
jumpers, the pilot lights, then the burners light, and then after a few
minutes, the blower kicks in forcing heat throughout the house.

As he cheerfully left the house, with the heater finally working, he said
he'd be back with a new lockout timer in a few days.

My question is: If the lockout timer isn't needed, what does it do?

If the circuit does not think the main flame is going after a short time
period the lockout timmer will cut off the gas. *This is so that if the
flame goes out you do not have an open gas line. *It could let gas out and
if there is a spark the whole house goes up in flames.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So why would the tech just jumper around the lockout timer and leave?

Is he hoping (probably with the odds in his favor, but still just
hoping) that there won't be a flame problem within the next few days?

Doesn't sound prudent...

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Mar 14, 9:52 am, "Ralph Mowery" wrote:
"Kat Rabun" wrote
in ...


If the circuit does not think the main flame is going after a short time
period the lockout timmer will cut off the gas. This is so that if the
flame goes out you do not have an open gas line. It could let gas out and
if there is a spark the whole house goes up in flames.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So why would the tech just jumper around the lockout timer and leave?

Is he hoping (probably with the odds in his favor, but still just
hoping) that there won't be a flame problem within the next few days?

Doesn't sound prudent...

He is thinking the home owner needs heat and is willing to take a chance
that the flame will not fail and then leak gas and blow the house up. It
could also be a timer on the air system that if the blower fails or the air
pressure drops too much the gas is shut off and the fire goes out. This
will also be a trade off as to safety vers the need for heat.

Without seeing the exect system I am guessing. That lockout timer could be
any of several safety devices or atleast tied to them. Sort of like where
I work as an electrician. Every time something stops, I get a call that
something has "kicked out". It could have stopped for any reason.

Ralph Mowery wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Mar 14, 9:52 am, "Ralph Mowery" wrote:
"Kat Rabun" wrote
in ...


If the circuit does not think the main flame is going after a short time
period the lockout timmer will cut off the gas. This is so that if the
flame goes out you do not have an open gas line. It could let gas out and
if there is a spark the whole house goes up in flames.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So why would the tech just jumper around the lockout timer and leave?

Is he hoping (probably with the odds in his favor, but still just
hoping) that there won't be a flame problem within the next few days?

Doesn't sound prudent...

He is thinking the home owner needs heat and is willing to take a chance
that the flame will not fail and then leak gas and blow the house up. It
could also be a timer on the air system that if the blower fails or the air
pressure drops too much the gas is shut off and the fire goes out. This
will also be a trade off as to safety vers the need for heat.

Without seeing the exect system I am guessing. That lockout timer could be
any of several safety devices or atleast tied to them. Sort of like where
I work as an electrician. Every time something stops, I get a call that
something has "kicked out". It could have stopped for any reason.


The unit may have draft inducer fan. There are two different safety
switches that are often used with draft inducers. One that I see
mostly on older units is a centrifugal switch on the back of the
draft inducer motor, newer units have an air pressure switch to
prove air flow through the combustion chamber before allowing the
main gas valve to open. Those safeties will often be in series with
other safety cut outs like the roll out switch and different over
temp switches which are series wired to cut the control voltage to
the system.

TDD