Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

Molly Brown wrote:
Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No.

"Molly Brown" wrote in message
...


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

Replace a part which I have never had to do in the past 15 years or so for
my Makita 12v cordless and is still going strong.

Molly Brown wrote:
Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

I'd rather take a look at your sweet ass, Molly. Got some jpgs for me baby?

Jon

On Mar 10, 3:43*pm, Molly Brown wrote:
Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

By the time sealed bearings fail so has just about every other moving
part, I have alot of stuff from the 80s thats fine. A Porter Cable rep
told me of big commercial users that junk them after a a time because
just everything is worn out, gears, switches, chuck, bearings, wiring
etc.

"Molly Brown" wrote in message
...


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

I pretty much use my cordless every day. A typical cordless drill/driver
lasts me between 2 and 3 years. Regardless of manufacturer, I've never had
one die due to lack of oil, gear grease maybe, but not oil.

"Molly Brown" wrote in message
...


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

Can you assure me that is the case? If so, yes. I'm just not sure how a
couple of drops of oil will keep the switch from going bad, or brushes
wearing the battery cells corroding or the chuck from slipping, or the
clutch not working.

"SBH" wrote in :


"Molly Brown" wrote in message
.
..


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

Replace a part which I have never had to do in the past 15 years or so
for my Makita 12v cordless and is still going strong.




yeah,ditto for my 9.6V Makita 6095DW.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

"RBM" wrote in :


"Molly Brown" wrote in message
.
..


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

I pretty much use my cordless every day. A typical cordless
drill/driver lasts me between 2 and 3 years. Regardless of
manufacturer, I've never had one die due to lack of oil, gear grease
maybe, but not oil.




is it the batteries that die on you or the drill itself?
do you figure it's cheaper to buy a new drill kit than to just replace the
batteries for your old drill?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
4...
"RBM" wrote in :


"Molly Brown" wrote in message
.
..


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

I pretty much use my cordless every day. A typical cordless
drill/driver lasts me between 2 and 3 years. Regardless of
manufacturer, I've never had one die due to lack of oil, gear grease
maybe, but not oil.




is it the batteries that die on you or the drill itself?
do you figure it's cheaper to buy a new drill kit than to just replace the
batteries for your old drill?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

The drills never completely die, but like Ransley said, the switches, gears,
chuck, etc. get so worn out, they become cumbersome to use, and yes, the
batteries won't hold a decent charge anymore. It's only slightly more
expensive to buy a new tool with 2 batteries, than just buying the
batteries.

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 16:44:33 -0600, Jim Yanik
wrote:

"SBH" wrote in :


"Molly Brown" wrote in message
.
..


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

Replace a part which I have never had to do in the past 15 years or so
for my Makita 12v cordless and is still going strong.




yeah,ditto for my 9.6V Makita 6095DW.

I don't use my cordless drill, but I use my 3 corded drills and I have
never oiled any of them and they've never worn out a part.

So does Molly have a plan to make drills worse?

"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
4...
"SBH" wrote in :


"Molly Brown" wrote in message
.
..


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

Replace a part which I have never had to do in the past 15 years or so
for my Makita 12v cordless and is still going strong.




yeah,ditto for my 9.6V Makita 6095DW.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

I have one of those too. I don't use it except on occasion at home, it's got
no power and it's kinda gawky and awkward, but it does work, and the battery
is fine

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 18:14:50 -0500, "RBM" wrote:


"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
. 44...
"RBM" wrote in :


"Molly Brown" wrote in message
.
..


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

I pretty much use my cordless every day. A typical cordless
drill/driver lasts me between 2 and 3 years. Regardless of
manufacturer, I've never had one die due to lack of oil, gear grease
maybe, but not oil.




is it the batteries that die on you or the drill itself?
do you figure it's cheaper to buy a new drill kit than to just replace the
batteries for your old drill?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

The drills never completely die, but like Ransley said, the switches, gears,
chuck, etc. get so worn out, they become cumbersome to use, and yes, the
batteries won't hold a decent charge anymore.

Maybe they need to be oiled.

Check with Molly.

BTW, people here shoudlnt' make risque comments regarding such a noble
person. She's the one Molly bolts ewre named after.

It's only slightly more
expensive to buy a new tool with 2 batteries, than just buying the
batteries.

On Mar 10, 5:14*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"Jim Yanik" wrote in message

4...





"RBM" wrote :

"Molly Brown" wrote in message
.
..

Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

I pretty much use my cordless every day. A typical cordless
drill/driver lasts me between 2 and 3 years. Regardless of
manufacturer, I've never had one die due to lack of oil, gear grease
maybe, but not oil.

is it the batteries that die on you or the drill itself?
do you figure it's cheaper to buy a new drill kit than to just replace the
batteries for your old drill?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

The drills never completely die, but like Ransley said, the switches, gears,
chuck, etc. get so worn out, they become cumbersome to use, and yes, the
batteries won't hold a decent charge anymore. It's only slightly more
expensive to buy a new tool with 2 batteries, than just buying the
batteries.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I just pulled out my 82 rockwell circular saw today, its smokin a bit,
id say the windings on the motor shorted, and no bearing chatter or
looseness in the blade, cheap stuff I usualy smoke the motors or
destroy the gears from abuse and dropping them.

On Mar 10, 3:43*pm, Molly Brown wrote:
Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

You forgot, an oil port to a bearing can let in dirt that can trash a
open bearing, sealed bearings dont have that exposure.

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
wrote:



Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No. I've never had the drive train, of any drill I've ever owned, fail. I
don't want oil collecting dust, either. Cordless drills die because the
batteries die and they're more expensive than the drill *and* batteries.

Jim Yanik wrote:
"SBH" wrote in :

"Molly Brown" wrote in message
.
..

Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?
Replace a part which I have never had to do in the past 15 years or so
for my Makita 12v cordless and is still going strong.




yeah,ditto for my 9.6V Makita 6095DW.


And my 12 volt Milwaukee that's about 18 years old.

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 22:31:52 -0600, "
wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
wrote:



Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No. I've never had the drive train, of any drill I've ever owned, fail. I
don't want oil collecting dust, either. Cordless drills die because the
batteries die and they're more expensive than the drill *and* batteries.

Not cordless, but I just had TWO fail on me today - the drive-train.

Put my 6 month old B&D 650 into low range and some teeth dissapered -
just an unholy racket, and no turning.

Took it back to where I bought it - they don't carry it any more, but
they DO have a Porter Cable PC650 - virtually identical except for
colour - for $20 more. Paid the man, took it home, drilled one hole,
and what the heck? a part jumped out through the front drive case.

Took it back and got my money back.
Useless crap.

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:23:24 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 22:31:52 -0600, "
wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
wrote:



Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No. I've never had the drive train, of any drill I've ever owned, fail. I
don't want oil collecting dust, either. Cordless drills die because the
batteries die and they're more expensive than the drill *and* batteries.

Not cordless, but I just had TWO fail on me today - the drive-train.

Put my 6 month old B&D 650 into low range and some teeth dissapered -
just an unholy racket, and no turning.

B&D isn't worth the aggravation. That appears to be a hammer drill.

Took it back to where I bought it - they don't carry it any more, but
they DO have a Porter Cable PC650 - virtually identical except for
colour - for $20 more. Paid the man, took it home, drilled one hole,
and what the heck? a part jumped out through the front drive case.

That's telling your something about B&D, eh?

Took it back and got my money back.
Useless crap.

B&D has been useless crap for decades. Go with Bosch.

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
wrote:



Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?


The oil will not only extend the life but help the drill performance
today.

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:23:24 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 22:31:52 -0600, "
wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
wrote:



Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No. I've never had the drive train, of any drill I've ever owned, fail. I
don't want oil collecting dust, either. Cordless drills die because the
batteries die and they're more expensive than the drill *and* batteries.

Not cordless, but I just had TWO fail on me today - the drive-train.

Put my 6 month old B&D 650 into low range and some teeth dissapered -
just an unholy racket, and no turning.

B&D isn't worth the aggravation. That appears to be a hammer drill.

Took it back to where I bought it - they don't carry it any more, but
they DO have a Porter Cable PC650 - virtually identical except for
colour - for $20 more. Paid the man, took it home, drilled one hole,
and what the heck? a part jumped out through the front drive case.

That's telling your something about B&D, eh?

Took it back and got my money back.
Useless crap.

B&D has been useless crap for decades. Go with Bosch.

I've had good luck with B&D for years. Even my coffee pot is B&D.
My Firestorm stuff is great. My 1/2 inch electric B&D hammer drill never
fails.

On Mar 12, 7:16*am, LSMFT wrote:
wrote:
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:23:24 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 22:31:52 -0600, "
*wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
*wrote:

Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No. *I've never had the drive train, of any drill I've ever owned, fail. *I
don't want oil collecting dust, either. *Cordless drills die because the
batteries die and they're more expensive than the drill *and* batteries.

Not cordless, but I just had TWO fail on me today - the drive-train.

Put my 6 month old B&D 650 into low range and some teeth dissapered -
just an unholy racket, and no turning.

B&D isn't worth the aggravation. *That appears to be a hammer drill.

Took it back to where I bought it - they don't carry it any more, but
they DO have a Porter Cable PC650 - virtually identical except for
colour - for $20 more. Paid the man, took it home, drilled one hole,
and what the heck? a part jumped out through the front drive case.

That's telling your something about B&D, eh?

Took it back and got my money back.
Useless crap.

B&D has been useless crap for decades. *Go with Bosch.

I've had good luck with B&D for years. Even my coffee pot is B&D.
My Firestorm stuff is great. My 1/2 inch electric B&D hammer drill never
fails.

Under limited use...many things will last. I think the DeWalt line of
B&D is still pretty good. I have a 12 yr old DeWalt 9.6 that has the
original batteries functioning. At work, I have the same model and go
thru batteries every threw yrs.

bob

On Mar 12, 12:15*pm, Bob Villa wrote:
On Mar 12, 7:16*am, LSMFT wrote:





wrote:
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:23:24 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 22:31:52 -0600, "
*wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
*wrote:

Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No. *I've never had the drive train, of any drill I've ever owned, fail. *I
don't want oil collecting dust, either. *Cordless drills die because the
batteries die and they're more expensive than the drill *and* batteries.

Not cordless, but I just had TWO fail on me today - the drive-train.

Put my 6 month old B&D 650 into low range and some teeth dissapered -
just an unholy racket, and no turning.

B&D isn't worth the aggravation. *That appears to be a hammer drill..

Took it back to where I bought it - they don't carry it any more, but
they DO have a Porter Cable PC650 - virtually identical except for
colour - for $20 more. Paid the man, took it home, drilled one hole,
and what the heck? a part jumped out through the front drive case.

That's telling your something about B&D, eh?

Took it back and got my money back.
Useless crap.

B&D has been useless crap for decades. *Go with Bosch.

I've had good luck with B&D for years. Even my coffee pot is B&D.
My Firestorm stuff is great. My 1/2 inch electric B&D hammer drill never
fails.

Under limited use...many things will last. *I think the DeWalt line of
B&D is still pretty good. I have a 12 yr old DeWalt 9.6 that has the
original batteries functioning. At work, I have the same model and go
thru batteries every threw yrs.

bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And wil anybody EVER standardize cordless batteries??????????????
With some exceptions such batteries for flash cameras we do have
standard sizes (internationally) for AA, AAA, C, D etc. in both
primary and rechargeable versions.
Also car batteries (usually wet lead acid) are pretty standard if you
find your way through a web of catalog numbers.
Solid state transistors and chips are somewhat standard, as were/are
electronic tubes. An American 6L6 output tube being the same as or
almost identical to a Russian made version or a European one, even
though the Euro. one might be coded differently it can be a direct
plug in!
Again standardizing there are several different analog TV standards
but with digital standards are appearing or in place.
Cell phones formats are beginning to standardize.
So why not cordless batteries. OR, as has happened in another fields
someone starts to make 'adapters'! the cells inside the couple I've
ventured to repair are identical and a 14 volt drill WILL work on, for
example, 18 volts, no problem.
So why not a cordless battery standard.
PS. Going outside now to put in two screws to mount the holder for the
remote sender of an outside/inside electronic thermometer. But think
I'll use my manual small 'breast' drill. For better control drilling
into the redwood cedar siding!

"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
4...
"RBM" wrote in :


"Molly Brown" wrote in message
.
..


Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

I pretty much use my cordless every day. A typical cordless
drill/driver lasts me between 2 and 3 years. Regardless of
manufacturer, I've never had one die due to lack of oil, gear grease
maybe, but not oil.




is it the batteries that die on you or the drill itself?
do you figure it's cheaper to buy a new drill kit than to just replace the
batteries for your old drill?

It's cheaper to have the batteries rebuilt. I had to do so once with my
Makita after 10 years or so. Again, still going strong.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
wrote:



Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No. I've never had the drive train, of any drill I've ever owned, fail.
I
don't want oil collecting dust, either. Cordless drills die because the
batteries die and they're more expensive than the drill *and* batteries.

Once again, not if you have them rebuilt. I had two batteries for my 12v
Makita rebuilt for $60. They guaranteed them to last the same and/or longer
than the stock and thus far, they are correct.

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:36:04 -0800 (PST), terry
wrote:

On Mar 12, 12:15*pm, Bob Villa wrote:
On Mar 12, 7:16*am, LSMFT wrote:





wrote:
On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:23:24 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 22:31:52 -0600, "
*wrote:

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
*wrote:

Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No. *I've never had the drive train, of any drill I've ever owned, fail. *I
don't want oil collecting dust, either. *Cordless drills die because the
batteries die and they're more expensive than the drill *and* batteries.

Not cordless, but I just had TWO fail on me today - the drive-train.

Put my 6 month old B&D 650 into low range and some teeth dissapered -
just an unholy racket, and no turning.

B&D isn't worth the aggravation. *That appears to be a hammer drill.

Took it back to where I bought it - they don't carry it any more, but
they DO have a Porter Cable PC650 - virtually identical except for
colour - for $20 more. Paid the man, took it home, drilled one hole,
and what the heck? a part jumped out through the front drive case.

That's telling your something about B&D, eh?

Took it back and got my money back.
Useless crap.

B&D has been useless crap for decades. *Go with Bosch.

I've had good luck with B&D for years. Even my coffee pot is B&D.
My Firestorm stuff is great. My 1/2 inch electric B&D hammer drill never
fails.

Under limited use...many things will last. *I think the DeWalt line of
B&D is still pretty good. I have a 12 yr old DeWalt 9.6 that has the
original batteries functioning. At work, I have the same model and go
thru batteries every threw yrs.

bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And wil anybody EVER standardize cordless batteries??????????????

No, because then they can't charge 10X what they're worth. Duh!

With some exceptions such batteries for flash cameras we do have
standard sizes (internationally) for AA, AAA, C, D etc. in both
primary and rechargeable versions.
Also car batteries (usually wet lead acid) are pretty standard if you
find your way through a web of catalog numbers.
Solid state transistors and chips are somewhat standard, as were/are
electronic tubes. An American 6L6 output tube being the same as or
almost identical to a Russian made version or a European one, even
though the Euro. one might be coded differently it can be a direct
plug in!
Again standardizing there are several different analog TV standards
but with digital standards are appearing or in place.
Cell phones formats are beginning to standardize.
So why not cordless batteries. OR, as has happened in another fields
someone starts to make 'adapters'! the cells inside the couple I've
ventured to repair are identical and a 14 volt drill WILL work on, for
example, 18 volts, no problem.
So why not a cordless battery standard.

Where's the money in that. BTW, they are standard on the inside. Most of
these battery packs can be rebuilt out of standard cells (usually "Sub-C"
cells).

PS. Going outside now to put in two screws to mount the holder for the
remote sender of an outside/inside electronic thermometer. But think
I'll use my manual small 'breast' drill. For better control drilling
into the redwood cedar siding!

I really like the "12V" Bosch drill, driver, and impact driver for small jobs.
The Impactor will handle some pretty big screws, too. I think I have 8 drills
of different makes, mainly because they were cheaper than the batteries that
came with them.

On Fri, 12 Mar 2010 17:18:54 -0500, "SBH" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
wrote:



Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?

No. I've never had the drive train, of any drill I've ever owned, fail.
I
don't want oil collecting dust, either. Cordless drills die because the
batteries die and they're more expensive than the drill *and* batteries.

Once again, not if you have them rebuilt. I had two batteries for my 12v
Makita rebuilt for $60. They guaranteed them to last the same and/or longer
than the stock and thus far, they are correct.

I had a battery for my PC 14.4V rebuilt. It's fine, though I don't use it all
that much anymore.

Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:43:33 -0800 (PST), Molly Brown
wrote:



Would you rather have to put in a few drops of oil through a
lubricating hole after every few hours of running your drill and
double the length of time of use without having to replace any parts
or rather not have to bother oiling it and replace a part that may
cost 30% of the price for a new drill every few years?


The oil will not only extend the life but help the drill performance
today.

Really?