I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul

On Mar 5, 6:43*am, Pavel314 wrote:
I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul

I guess the check valve is there because of uneven heating or to shut
off an area, but does it close down the overheated side, if so try
closing it. Or are there 2 valves, one pump, 2 stats to balance it.
Pumps do wear internaly, is water comming out the radiators when
boiler is cool but pump is on. Im no pro just guessing.

On Mar 5, 8:44*am, ransley wrote:
On Mar 5, 6:43*am, Pavel314 wrote:





I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul

I guess the check valve is there because of uneven heating or to shut
off an area, but does it close down the overheated side, if so try
closing it. Or are there 2 valves, one pump, 2 stats to balance it.
Pumps do wear internaly, is water comming out the radiators when
boiler is cool but pump is on. Im no pro just guessing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Here's the layout, as best I can describe with ASCII characters:

------- Valve -----
North Side Radiators
| 4
Upstairs, 4 Downstairs
|
FURNACE --- Hot Water Pump ---Check Valve----- (T-Joint)
|
|
--------------------
South Side Radiators
1
Upstairs, 2 Downstairs


I had hoped to find a valve on the main line to the south side but
there is none. What isn't clear is why the situation changed. The
check valve only prevents water from coming backwards from the T-joint
into the furnace so whether it's open manually or automatically should
be irrelevant. Unless the larger number of north side radiators causes
inertia with the check valve open and diverts the water flow into the
south side.


Paul

On Mar 5, 9:09*am, Pavel314 wrote:
On Mar 5, 8:44*am, ransley wrote:





On Mar 5, 6:43*am, Pavel314 wrote:

I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul

I guess the check valve is there because of uneven heating or to shut
off an area, but does it close down the overheated side, if so try
closing it. Or are there 2 valves, one pump, 2 stats to balance it.
Pumps do wear internaly, is water comming out the radiators when
boiler is cool but pump is on. Im no pro just guessing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Here's the layout, as best I can describe with ASCII characters:

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *------- Valve -----
North Side Radiators
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *| * * * * * * * * * *4
Upstairs, 4 Downstairs
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|
FURNACE --- Hot Water Pump ---Check Valve----- (T-Joint)
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *--------------------
South Side Radiators
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *1
Upstairs, 2 Downstairs

I had hoped to find a valve on the main line to the south side but
there is none. What isn't clear is why the situation changed. The
check valve only prevents water from coming backwards from the T-joint
into the furnace so whether it's open manually or automatically should
be irrelevant. Unless the larger number of north side radiators causes
inertia with the check valve open and diverts the water flow into the
south side.

Paul- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry, my drawing didn't come across as I intended; to the right of
the valve on the upper arm it should say North Side Radiators, 4
upstairs, 4 downstairs. After the bottom arm, it should say South Side
Radiators, 1 upstairs, 2 downstairs.

Paul

On Mar 5, 6:43*am, Pavel314 wrote:
I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul

Here is a radical thought, how about just replacing the known
defective part?

On Mar 5, 7:43*am, Pavel314 wrote:
I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul


So Paul, just so we are clear here you are wondering why in
a Hydronic heating system using only one circulating pump,
*NO* zone balancing valves and zones with vastly different run
lengths and uneven heating loads doesn't heat evenly ???

Wow... It is a miracle it worked to begin with...
That magic check valve that somehow made things work...

Please at least tell us that the piping for the longer run
is using larger diameter piping than the shorter run,
say 3/4" pipes as opposed to the typical 1/2" piping...

Usually in hydronic systems there are zone balancing
valves located near the boiler just off of the manifold
pipe so that shorter zones can have their flow rate
restricted so that the longer run gets a chance to heat...

It sounds like your ONE circulating pump is
wearing out and while it is still pumping some
water, it is NOT pumping enough volume to
adequately supply the flow rate required in a
horrendously lopsided system with no capacity
to have the flow rate on the shorter run restricted...

You could simply replace the check valve like
another poster here has suggested but its
failure has uncovered some important oversights
that were made in the initial design of your system...

If it were my house, I would find a plumber who
has extensive hydronic heating system experience
to upgrade your poorly designed system so that
each zone has its own circulating pump and zone
balancing valve...

Get someone out who actually knows what they
are doing with hydronic heating systems to evaluate
what you have and recommend the best remediation
which will solve your problem, not a "pipe mechanic"
plumber who seemingly only knows how to solder
pipes together and fix broken faucets whose only
ill-advised recommendation was to keep a faulty
check valve manually opened rather than repair or
replace it...

~~ Evan

On Mar 5, 6:43*am, Pavel314 wrote:
I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul

I will guess the check valve kept the hot area from overheating, not
what you think controling the colder area, so close it, is the
thermostat in the in the cold area.

On Mar 5, 10:33*am, Evan wrote:
On Mar 5, 7:43*am, Pavel314 wrote:





I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul

So Paul, just so we are clear here you are wondering why in
a Hydronic heating system using only one circulating pump,
*NO* zone balancing valves and zones with vastly different run
lengths and uneven heating loads doesn't heat evenly ???

Wow... *It is a miracle it worked to begin with...
That magic check valve that somehow made things work...

Please at least tell us that the piping for the longer run
is using larger diameter piping than the shorter run,
say 3/4" pipes as opposed to the typical 1/2" piping...

Usually in hydronic systems there are zone balancing
valves located near the boiler just off of the manifold
pipe so that shorter zones can have their flow rate
restricted so that the longer run gets a chance to heat...

It sounds like your ONE circulating pump is
wearing out and while it is still pumping some
water, it is NOT pumping enough volume to
adequately supply the flow rate required in a
horrendously lopsided system with no capacity
to have the flow rate on the shorter run restricted...

You could simply replace the check valve like
another poster here has suggested but its
failure has uncovered some important oversights
that were made in the initial design of your system...

If it were my house, I would find a plumber who
has extensive hydronic heating system experience
to upgrade your poorly designed system so that
each zone has its own circulating pump and zone
balancing valve...

Get someone out who actually knows what they
are doing with hydronic heating systems to evaluate
what you have and recommend the best remediation
which will solve your problem, not a "pipe mechanic"
plumber who seemingly only knows how to solder
pipes together and fix broken faucets whose only
ill-advised recommendation was to keep a faulty
check valve manually opened rather than repair or
replace it...

~~ Evan- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I agree, I think I need an expert opinion. The heating system was in
the house when my wife moved here 30 years ago, God only knows how old
it was at that time. The south wing of the house is the original
house, from the 1930's. When they put the new, larger wing on the
house, in the 1950's I would guess, they probably just added a T to
the line and tapped off from that for the north side radiators.

We replaced the original furnace ten years ago but the piping and all
remained as it was and there was never any problem until the recent
check-valve problem. The check valve, I believe, was from the original
system.

The system at least needs to have a new check valve and a control
valve on the south line to balance things out if needs be. I guess I
could get away with just turning down the valves at each of the three
radiators on the south side but a main line valve would be better.

Paul

On Mar 5, 10:53*am, ransley wrote:
On Mar 5, 6:43*am, Pavel314 wrote:





I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul

I will guess the check valve kept the hot area from overheating, not
what you think controling the colder area, so close it, is the
thermostat in the in the cold area.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That makes sense. The check valve would hold back the water until the
pump started. Now, as the water heats, it rises into the path of least
back-pressure and starts a thermal flow before the pump kicks in. Yes,
the thermostat is in the cold area. I never thought of that before,
but that compounds the problem, keeping the furnace running longer and
pumping more heat into the already hot side.

Paul

On Mar 5, 11:49*am, Pavel314 wrote:
On Mar 5, 10:53*am, ransley wrote:





On Mar 5, 6:43*am, Pavel314 wrote:

I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.

From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?

Paul

I will guess the check valve kept the hot area from overheating, not
what you think controling the colder area, so close it, is the
thermostat in the in the cold area.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That makes sense. The check valve would hold back the water until the
pump started. Now, as the water heats, it rises into the path of least
back-pressure and starts a thermal flow before the pump kicks in. Yes,
the thermostat is in the cold area. I never thought of that before,
but that compounds the problem, keeping the furnace running longer and
pumping more heat into the already hot side.

Paul- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Can a balance valve be manualy cutback in the meantime

Pavel314 wrote:
On Mar 5, 9:09 am, Pavel314 wrote:
On Mar 5, 8:44 am, ransley wrote:





On Mar 5, 6:43 am, Pavel314 wrote:
I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.
A few days later, the heat stopped circulating again. I opened the
check valve and closed it, as the man had shown me how to do, but that
didn't help. I called the oil company for repairs but they said that I
had to get a plumber for the check valve problem.
The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.
The problem now is that the radiators on the north side of the house
don't heat well while those on the south side do. All have been
checked for air lock and they're fine.
From the furnace, the hot water passes through the check valve and
into a T that sends the water north or south.
I'm going to try adjusting the valves on the north and south feed
lines to try to even out the water flow. Any other ideas or
comments?
Paul
I guess the check valve is there because of uneven heating or to shut
off an area, but does it close down the overheated side, if so try
closing it. Or are there 2 valves, one pump, 2 stats to balance it.
Pumps do wear internaly, is water comming out the radiators when
boiler is cool but pump is on. Im no pro just guessing.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Here's the layout, as best I can describe with ASCII characters:

------- Valve -----
North Side Radiators
| 4
Upstairs, 4 Downstairs
|
FURNACE --- Hot Water Pump ---Check Valve----- (T-Joint)
|
|
--------------------
South Side Radiators
1
Upstairs, 2 Downstairs

I had hoped to find a valve on the main line to the south side but
there is none. What isn't clear is why the situation changed. The
check valve only prevents water from coming backwards from the T-joint
into the furnace so whether it's open manually or automatically should
be irrelevant. Unless the larger number of north side radiators causes
inertia with the check valve open and diverts the water flow into the
south side.

Paul- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry, my drawing didn't come across as I intended; to the right of
the valve on the upper arm it should say North Side Radiators, 4
upstairs, 4 downstairs. After the bottom arm, it should say South Side
Radiators, 1 upstairs, 2 downstairs.

Paul

Looks like you should make it 2 zone heating. Parallel systems aren't
easy to control.

"Pavel314" wrote in message
...
I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.



The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

Let me start with the basics. You don't have a furnace. You have a boiler.
Furnaces heat air, boilers heat water.

If the check valve is know to be bad, it should be replaced.

Before you do that though, how old is the boiler? If it is very old, you
can get a new one for free. Yes, free. Here is how I did it.

I replaced my 30 year old boiler with a System 2000 by
www.energykinetics.com The state of CT will finance upgrades like that at
0% for 10 years. Payment is less than $70. The state also gave me a $500
rebate. My oil use dropped by 38% in the 15 months I've had it. The oil
saving alone is enough to pay for the boiler, but on top of that, I got a
$1500 tax credit.

Do yourself a favor and look into new equipment. IMO, the System 2000 is
the most efficient out there.

On Mar 5, 11:23*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Pavel314" wrote in message

...

I have a big, old farm house with an oil-fired furnance and old
fashioned hot water radiators. A couple of weeks ago, the radiators
went cold although the furnace would still fire. The furnace repairman
came out and said that the circulator pump was fine but that the check
valve had stuck. He opened it manually, closed it, and watched the
furnace go through a heating cycle.

The plumber came out and after checking the situation, said that the
best thing to do was to just leave the check valve open manually all
the time, that the check valve wasn't that important since I had a
hydronic system, with one pipe in a closed loop. So I left it open.

Let me start with the basics. *You don't have a furnace. *You have a boiler.
Furnaces heat air, boilers heat water.

If the check valve is know to be bad, it should be replaced.

Before you do that though, how old is the boiler? *If it is very old, you
can get a new one for free. *Yes, free. *Here is how I did it.

I replaced my 30 year old boiler with a System 2000 bywww.energykinetics.com*The state of CT will finance upgrades like that at
0% for 10 years. *Payment is less than $70. *The state also gave me a $500
rebate. *My oil use dropped by 38% in the 15 months I've had it. *The oil
saving alone is enough to pay for the boiler, but on top of that, I got a
$1500 tax credit.

Do yourself a favor and look into new equipment. * IMO, the System 2000 is
the most efficient out there.


How does getting financed at 0% for 10 years qualify as FREE ???
Definitely not paying into some huge corporations profit margins, but
you still have to repay what you borrowed... It sounds like you had
to front quite a bit of money to actually have the work done and only
received approval for the program later based on an inspection of the
completed installation...

It is good that your decrease in oil use will offset your boiler
upgrade
costs, but it sounds like your situation was possible because of that
program offered by the State of Connecticut and your quick action to
apply for a spot in it... Energy savings aside, why on earth would
you
ever front thousands of dollars to receive a $1,500 tax credit ???
You
still had to spend thousands of dollars of your own cash, or in your
specific case state money that has been loaned to you, in order to get
that tax credit... That sounds a lot to me like a lottery psych-out,
get
you seeing the tax credit dollar signs to distract you from the fact
you
had to spend quite a bit of money to receive it...

Do you have any numbers on how much funding Connecticut put into
that program ???

~~ Evan

"Evan" wrote
How does getting financed at 0% for 10 years qualify as FREE ???
Definitely not paying into some huge corporations profit margins, but
you still have to repay what you borrowed... It sounds like you had
to front quite a bit of money to actually have the work done and only
received approval for the program later based on an inspection of the
completed installation...


Actually, you are wrong. You can apply for the loan before the system is
installed. Payment terms varies by dealer, of course, but you may not need
any upfront money. I've not had to put out any cash from my pocket and
the savings in oil has not increased my monthly payments for
heat/utilities/loan combined. Even with a consumer loan it is possible to
save enough to make the payments. Savings varies with each house so you
savings may be greater or less.

Right now the new boiler is costing me nothing at all. Once the loan is
paid, money will continue to go into may pocket and I'll be way ahead.


It is good that your decrease in oil use will offset your boiler
upgrade
costs, but it sounds like your situation was possible because of that
program offered by the State of Connecticut and your quick action to
apply for a spot in it... Energy savings aside, why on earth would
you
ever front thousands of dollars to receive a $1,500 tax credit ???


The saving is aside from the tax credit. That is just a bonus on top of the
already big savings. My initial decision was based on oil savings only. I
did not know about the rebate until after the job was done. The rebate was
equal to 7 loan payments.


You
still had to spend thousands of dollars of your own cash, or in your
specific case state money that has been loaned to you, in order to get
that tax credit... That sounds a lot to me like a lottery psych-out,
get
you seeing the tax credit dollar signs to distract you from the fact
you
had to spend quite a bit of money to receive it...

As I stated, the tax credit is a bonus. I recommended the OP review what he
has and consider potential savings. The house is old and perhaps the boiler
is old too. If that is the case, why keep paying for oil when you can pay
the same money today and have a new boiler, better hot water heating,
increased comfort and potential savings in repair costs for the old heater.
Once paid for, the savings go right into your pocket.

One caveat though. If oil goes back to 85¢ a gallon again you won't save any
money. At $3 though, I'll have even faster payback. What do you think the
price of oil will be in the next few years?



Do you have any numbers on how much funding Connecticut put into
that program ???

No idea at all, but in the millions.