I'm replacing a broken flow-switch on a hot tub, and since I've never
used PVC cement before, I want to make sure I don't screw this up.
The flow-switch has a fitting (hope that's the right word) on either
end that slides over 1.5" PVC pipe. It's all standard schedule 40
PVC.

Now I have everything I need, and I've watched some how-to videos on
youtube, and it all looks straight forward, except for one thing. The
fitting on the end flow switch is ever-so-slightly tapered - it gets
slightly narrower as it goes in. I'm pretty sure it's designed this
way so that you get a nice snug fit. However, doing a dry run, as I
push the pipe into the fitting, it will not go all the way down to the
hard-stop. I'm not sure it needs to - looking at the broken piece,
there is a small gap there (BTW, the flow switch was cracked from
having water frozen inside - nothing to do the PVC joins). In the
videos I've watched, you just push the pieces together, rotate 1/4
turn and hold in place until set. However, I'm unsure how far to push
in. In the dry run, if I push in as far as I can, the pieces are so
tight that I can't turn them at all. Once there's PVC cement on the
pipes, I'm sure it will be even harder to push these things together.

The hard stop is maybe 1.25" in. With force, I could push the pipe in
a little over 1", but it was a bear to get out again. Without forcing
it, it goes in maybe about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, which doesn't seem far
enough.

Any advice?

Thanks.

-J

When you put on the cement, it acts as a solvent, and a lubricant..
The fitting will easily go right to its hard stop


"JJ" wrote in message
...
I'm replacing a broken flow-switch on a hot tub, and since I've never
used PVC cement before, I want to make sure I don't screw this up.
The flow-switch has a fitting (hope that's the right word) on either
end that slides over 1.5" PVC pipe. It's all standard schedule 40
PVC.

Now I have everything I need, and I've watched some how-to videos on
youtube, and it all looks straight forward, except for one thing. The
fitting on the end flow switch is ever-so-slightly tapered - it gets
slightly narrower as it goes in. I'm pretty sure it's designed this
way so that you get a nice snug fit. However, doing a dry run, as I
push the pipe into the fitting, it will not go all the way down to the
hard-stop. I'm not sure it needs to - looking at the broken piece,
there is a small gap there (BTW, the flow switch was cracked from
having water frozen inside - nothing to do the PVC joins). In the
videos I've watched, you just push the pieces together, rotate 1/4
turn and hold in place until set. However, I'm unsure how far to push
in. In the dry run, if I push in as far as I can, the pieces are so
tight that I can't turn them at all. Once there's PVC cement on the
pipes, I'm sure it will be even harder to push these things together.

The hard stop is maybe 1.25" in. With force, I could push the pipe in
a little over 1", but it was a bear to get out again. Without forcing
it, it goes in maybe about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, which doesn't seem far
enough.

Any advice?

Thanks.

-J

On Jan 20, 12:14*pm, JJ wrote:
I'm replacing a broken flow-switch on a hot tub, and since I've never
used PVC cement before, I want to make sure I don't screw this up.
The flow-switch has a fitting (hope that's the right word) on either
end that slides over 1.5" PVC pipe. *It's all standard schedule 40
PVC.

Now I have everything I need, and I've watched some how-to videos on
youtube, and it all looks straight forward, except for one thing. *The
fitting on the end flow switch is ever-so-slightly tapered - it gets
slightly narrower as it goes in. *I'm pretty sure it's designed this
way so that you get a nice snug fit. *However, doing a dry run, as I
push the pipe into the fitting, it will not go all the way down to the
hard-stop. *I'm not sure it needs to - looking at the broken piece,
there is a small gap there (BTW, the flow switch was cracked from
having water frozen inside - nothing to do the PVC joins). *In the
videos I've watched, you just push the pieces together, rotate 1/4
turn and hold in place until set. *However, I'm unsure how far to push
in. *In the dry run, if I push in as far as I can, the pieces are so
tight that I can't turn them at all. *Once there's PVC cement on the
pipes, I'm sure it will be even harder to push these things together.

The hard stop is maybe 1.25" in. *With force, I could push the pipe in
a little over 1", but it was a bear to get out again. *Without forcing
it, it goes in maybe about 1/2 to 3/4 *inch, which doesn't seem far
enough.

Any advice?

Thanks.

-J

I'm NOT a plumber but I am in the process of replacing the pipe from
the meter to the house and doing it with PVC pipe.

What I have read seems to indicate that one should use blue primer,
which softens the PVC somewhat, then apply glue, then assemble it in
the way you describe.

I haven't done it yet but I am assuming that the primer softening the
PVC is so that that 2 pieces mate together better.

Good luck with your project.

Lewis.

*****

On Jan 20, 12:57*pm, " wrote:
On Jan 20, 12:14*pm, JJ wrote:





I'm replacing a broken flow-switch on a hot tub, and since I've never
used PVC cement before, I want to make sure I don't screw this up.
The flow-switch has a fitting (hope that's the right word) on either
end that slides over 1.5" PVC pipe. *It's all standard schedule 40
PVC.

Now I have everything I need, and I've watched some how-to videos on
youtube, and it all looks straight forward, except for one thing. *The
fitting on the end flow switch is ever-so-slightly tapered - it gets
slightly narrower as it goes in. *I'm pretty sure it's designed this
way so that you get a nice snug fit. *However, doing a dry run, as I
push the pipe into the fitting, it will not go all the way down to the
hard-stop. *I'm not sure it needs to - looking at the broken piece,
there is a small gap there (BTW, the flow switch was cracked from
having water frozen inside - nothing to do the PVC joins). *In the
videos I've watched, you just push the pieces together, rotate 1/4
turn and hold in place until set. *However, I'm unsure how far to push
in. *In the dry run, if I push in as far as I can, the pieces are so
tight that I can't turn them at all. *Once there's PVC cement on the
pipes, I'm sure it will be even harder to push these things together.

The hard stop is maybe 1.25" in. *With force, I could push the pipe in
a little over 1", but it was a bear to get out again. *Without forcing
it, it goes in maybe about 1/2 to 3/4 *inch, which doesn't seem far
enough.

Any advice?

Thanks.

-J

I'm NOT a plumber but I am in the process of replacing the pipe from
the meter to the house and doing it with PVC pipe.

What I have read seems to indicate that one should use blue primer,
which softens the PVC somewhat, then apply glue, then assemble it in
the way you describe.

I haven't done it yet but I am assuming that the primer softening the
PVC is so that that 2 pieces mate together better.

Good luck with your project.

Lewis.

*****- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The cement will help things a LITTLE, but if it doesn't have to go all
the way, that's good as it may not make it all the way even with the
lubrication of the primer and cenment. You will have only a couple of
seconds to get things together, and you shouldn't have to hold
anaything more than 10 seconds max before it is too late to make any
changes.

JJ wrote in news:5705798f-5755-47e7-84c3-
:

I'm replacing a broken flow-switch on a hot tub, and since I've never
used PVC cement before, I want to make sure I don't screw this up.
The flow-switch has a fitting (hope that's the right word) on either
end that slides over 1.5" PVC pipe. It's all standard schedule 40
PVC.

Now I have everything I need, and I've watched some how-to videos on
youtube, and it all looks straight forward, except for one thing. The
fitting on the end flow switch is ever-so-slightly tapered - it gets
slightly narrower as it goes in. I'm pretty sure it's designed this
way so that you get a nice snug fit. However, doing a dry run, as I
push the pipe into the fitting, it will not go all the way down to the
hard-stop. I'm not sure it needs to - looking at the broken piece,
there is a small gap there (BTW, the flow switch was cracked from
having water frozen inside - nothing to do the PVC joins). In the
videos I've watched, you just push the pieces together, rotate 1/4
turn and hold in place until set. However, I'm unsure how far to push
in. In the dry run, if I push in as far as I can, the pieces are so
tight that I can't turn them at all. Once there's PVC cement on the
pipes, I'm sure it will be even harder to push these things together.

The hard stop is maybe 1.25" in. With force, I could push the pipe in
a little over 1", but it was a bear to get out again. Without forcing
it, it goes in maybe about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, which doesn't seem far
enough.

Any advice?

Thanks.

-J



1) Prime the pipe. Regular PVC primer is purple, and it cleans the pipe
so that the cement can make contact with the pipe surface. Otherwise you
run the risk of hard spots that bind when you try to put it together,
and leaks after the job is done.

2) It doesn't matter if the pieces barely go together at all when they
are dry. When you apply glue, they will easily go all the way together.
You will be able to fully seat the pieces with little effort. Be sure to
hold them together for 15 seconds or so before you let go, or it will
just as easily pop back out again.

Read the instructions on the glue. You want a light glue coat on the
female part, and heavy glue on the male. I like to rotate it a 1/4 turn
as I push them in, not after they are seated. Once they seat, I don't
move them at all. It's an easy process. If you don't feel comfortable
doing it, then try gluing some scraps together before you glue the
actual work. You will then see how easy it is, and be confident that you
can get the actual work glued together properly.

On Jan 20, 1:14*pm, JJ wrote:
I'm replacing a broken flow-switch on a hot tub, and since I've never
used PVC cement before, I want to make sure I don't screw this up.
The flow-switch has a fitting (hope that's the right word) on either
end that slides over 1.5" PVC pipe. *It's all standard schedule 40
PVC.

Now I have everything I need, and I've watched some how-to videos on
youtube, and it all looks straight forward, except for one thing. *The
fitting on the end flow switch is ever-so-slightly tapered - it gets
slightly narrower as it goes in. *I'm pretty sure it's designed this
way so that you get a nice snug fit. *However, doing a dry run, as I
push the pipe into the fitting, it will not go all the way down to the
hard-stop. *I'm not sure it needs to - looking at the broken piece,
there is a small gap there (BTW, the flow switch was cracked from
having water frozen inside - nothing to do the PVC joins). *In the
videos I've watched, you just push the pieces together, rotate 1/4
turn and hold in place until set. *However, I'm unsure how far to push
in. *In the dry run, if I push in as far as I can, the pieces are so
tight that I can't turn them at all. *Once there's PVC cement on the
pipes, I'm sure it will be even harder to push these things together.

The hard stop is maybe 1.25" in. *With force, I could push the pipe in
a little over 1", but it was a bear to get out again. *Without forcing
it, it goes in maybe about 1/2 to 3/4 *inch, which doesn't seem far
enough.

Any advice?

Thanks.

-J

Get a few couplings and some lenghts of pipe and pratice before you do
it.

Jimmie

Awesome! Thanks for the quick responses. After I posted I did some
more searching on the internet and found the answer, but it's great to
have the confirmation. Practicing with some scraps is a great idea.

Thanks.

-J

On Jan 20, 12:14*pm, JJ wrote:
I'm replacing a broken flow-switch on a hot tub, and since I've never
used PVC cement before, I want to make sure I don't screw this up.
The flow-switch has a fitting (hope that's the right word) on either
end that slides over 1.5" PVC pipe. *It's all standard schedule 40
PVC.

Now I have everything I need, and I've watched some how-to videos on
youtube, and it all looks straight forward, except for one thing. *The
fitting on the end flow switch is ever-so-slightly tapered - it gets
slightly narrower as it goes in. *I'm pretty sure it's designed this
way so that you get a nice snug fit. *However, doing a dry run, as I
push the pipe into the fitting, it will not go all the way down to the
hard-stop. *I'm not sure it needs to - looking at the broken piece,
there is a small gap there (BTW, the flow switch was cracked from
having water frozen inside - nothing to do the PVC joins). *In the
videos I've watched, you just push the pieces together, rotate 1/4
turn and hold in place until set. *However, I'm unsure how far to push
in. *In the dry run, if I push in as far as I can, the pieces are so
tight that I can't turn them at all. *Once there's PVC cement on the
pipes, I'm sure it will be even harder to push these things together.

The hard stop is maybe 1.25" in. *With force, I could push the pipe in
a little over 1", but it was a bear to get out again. *Without forcing
it, it goes in maybe about 1/2 to 3/4 *inch, which doesn't seem far
enough.

Any advice?

Thanks.

-J

Although as suggested, the pieces ought to go together when 'lubed'
with cement, in my experience I have found some occasional fittings
that come out of the mold with male end or female port that is not
round. Using excessive cement to soften the pair may or may not permit
assembly, so the sensible procedure is to determine which piece is
oval and correct it. If your pipe is perfectly round, check it with
some standard els, couplings, or whatever to judge how the joint
assembly should slide together. If everything seems smooth, the fault
is in the new flow switch. Uncommon assemblies like that are more
prone to have imperfect moldings. You can exchange it for one that is
a better fit (that's what I would do) or carefully file your pipe to
fit better. One thing you don't want to have happen is to have
gobboons of dried cement getting into the switch assembly.

Joe